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Can you vent EGR gasses out of engine rather then recirculating them and clogging up the Head?

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Ive done EGR delete's / block offs on other cars no prob, but believe mk3 vrs diesel is a bit more tricky.

what happens if you do , do this? 

 

As above i was wondering if you could leave EGR in place, but instead just disconnect pipe from head and dump gasses out of the car via some tubing, and possibly via a catch can?

 

In MGTF circles, some naughty people (honest wasnt me) would gut the insides of their Cats, wondering if you vould do same with a DPF?   

My MGTF used to pass emissions tests easily with a gutted Cat in place .

Anyone done this already?

 

P.s. 

Is it a bugger to remove intake and clean up carbon build  on these cars? how long roughly and Do able for a competent DIY mech?

 

The DPF and EGR are there for a purpose. Deleting them, blanking then or gutting them is illegal and will invalidate your insurance.

1 hour ago, NikTheGeek said:

The DPF and EGR are there for a purpose. Deleting them, blanking then or gutting them is illegal and will invalidate your insurance.


This ^^ plus the EGR isn’t an issue anymore like in the PD and early CR VW engines. Almost no failures or issues are reported about EA288 engines 1.6 and 2.0 in this forum.

 

No need of a race pipes, intake manifold cleaning, etc. Blocking it won’t give you any performance improvements.

 

Do regular oil changes, some “Italian tune up” from time to time and optionally a tank of premium diesel every 3-4 fill ups.

 

EGR helps you get up to the operating temperature quicker which is already a bit slow process on these engines. And also decreases the engine wear due to the same reason.

 

For the DPF, leave it to complete its regens when possible.

 

 

 

Agree with this. I was toying with the idea of deleting them with a remap but have been told by the map company to leave them alone as they're already reliable. So long as you do long journeys and use good fuel and regen the DPF and egr should be fine even with a stage 1 map 

On 30/12/2022 at 22:28, masterbateson71 said:

As above i was wondering if you could leave EGR in place, but instead just disconnect pipe from head and dump gasses out of the car via some tubing, and possibly via a catch can?

 

If when EGR is commanded the mass airflow sensor does not register a corresponding reduction in flow of the  filtered fresh air then the engine will go into LOS (limited operating strategy) and bring up the MIL light. Sending the gases to atmosphere instead of into the intake tract or blocking off the pipe will result in the aforementioned.

 

On 30/12/2022 at 22:28, masterbateson71 said:

some naughty people (honest wasnt me) would gut the insides of their Cats, wondering if you vould do same with a DPF? 

 

 

There are animal cruelty laws with severe penalties for much lesser acts than that, my fathers pro tennis racket had cat gut strings but that was pre WW2.

  • Author

AFTER A BIT OF READING AND YOU TUBE WATCHING I THINK IVE GOT THE CART B4 THE HORSE.

FROM MY UNDERSTANDING NOW, IT THE CRANK CASE THAT RE INTRODUCES THE GASSES BACK INTO THE INTAKE B4 THE EGR, THEN WHEN THE EGR OPENS  AND VENTS THE SOOT TYPE STUFF IT MIXES WITH THE GASSES FROM THE CRANK CASE THUS CAUSING THE CARBON SLUDGE.

 

SO YOU WOULD WANT TO NOT CONNECT THE CRANK CASE VENT PIPE ALLEGEDLY, THEN YOUR CAR ONLY HAS THE SOOT TO GET RID OF.

 

i KNOW SOME PEEPS ON HERE HAVE SAID YOU SHOULDNT REMOVE OR MOD THE SET UP RE EGR.

 

bUT HOW MANY OF THE PEOPLE SAYING THAT, HAVE TAKEN THE INLET MANIFOLD OFF AND INSPECTED FOR CARBON BUILD UP, ESPECIALLY ON THE VALVES?

 

ID LIKE TO SEE SOME PICS IF YOU HAVE TO SUPPORT THIS.

DONT THINK THERE IS AN EASY WAY TO STICK CAMERA DOWN TO CHECK WITHOUT TAKING INLET MANIFOLD OFF, IF THERE IS PLEASE DROP A POST/HOW TOO.

15 hours ago, masterbateson71 said:

AFTER A BIT OF READING AND YOU TUBE WATCHING I THINK IVE GOT THE CART B4 THE HORSE.

FROM MY UNDERSTANDING NOW, IT THE CRANK CASE THAT RE INTRODUCES THE GASSES BACK INTO THE INTAKE B4 THE EGR, THEN WHEN THE EGR OPENS  AND VENTS THE SOOT TYPE STUFF IT MIXES WITH THE GASSES FROM THE CRANK CASE THUS CAUSING THE CARBON SLUDGE.

 

SO YOU WOULD WANT TO NOT CONNECT THE CRANK CASE VENT PIPE ALLEGEDLY, THEN YOUR CAR ONLY HAS THE SOOT TO GET RID OF.

 

i KNOW SOME PEEPS ON HERE HAVE SAID YOU SHOULDNT REMOVE OR MOD THE SET UP RE EGR.

 

bUT HOW MANY OF THE PEOPLE SAYING THAT, HAVE TAKEN THE INLET MANIFOLD OFF AND INSPECTED FOR CARBON BUILD UP, ESPECIALLY ON THE VALVES?

 

ID LIKE TO SEE SOME PICS IF YOU HAVE TO SUPPORT THIS.

DONT THINK THERE IS AN EASY WAY TO STICK CAMERA DOWN TO CHECK WITHOUT TAKING INLET MANIFOLD OFF, IF THERE IS PLEASE DROP A POST/HOW TOO.

 

I feel that whatever we tell you, won't be enough.. if you think the car is designed badly, maybe you got the wrong car.

 

The inlet manifold would be removed if any issues has occurred. And believe me, I know what issues could occur because I had 3x 1.9 engines suffering from sludge and carbon buildup - sticky turbo vanes, EGR stuck opened, loss of power, etc. None of them appeared on my car for almost 150k km. No error codes regarding such issues.

 

 

The EGR on this car is a low pressure one. It sits after the DPF so it doesn't recirculate the soot too, which would be the case for high pressure EGRs sitting just after the exhaust manifold.

  • Author
On 04/01/2023 at 05:11, fr1nklyn said:

 

I feel that whatever we tell you, won't be enough.. if you think the car is designed badly, maybe you got the wrong car.

 

The inlet manifold would be removed if any issues has occurred. And believe me, I know what issues could occur because I had 3x 1.9 engines suffering from sludge and carbon buildup - sticky turbo vanes, EGR stuck opened, loss of power, etc. None of them appeared on my car for almost 150k km. No error codes regarding such issues.

 

 

Not sure why you need to spit your dummy, just because I would like to see some actual pictures/evidence that the inlet manifold doesnt suffer from excess carbon build up.

Last  time i checked, i think it was considered good practice to question things and find out the facts, science is based around that.

Not just believing anything people say, Im not being funny here, let me make that clear 1st, But i dont know any of you from a bar of soap, how do i know if your a skoda mechanic or a vw mechanic who knows what they are talking about????

 

I do however know quite a few people, usually in a pub, spouting absolute rubbish about cars and car maintenance, who in fact dont know one end of a ratchet from the other.

 

So as i said b4, there must be some members on here who have done some maintenance and has pics of what they found when the intake manifold was off, or if they did a how too post covering what they did.

 

I would post links to some Youtube videos Ive seen showing carbon build up but Not if people are going to get a MONK ON about it.

 

Dont feel Im being unreasonable here, some people would like to have you believe the world is flat, I like to find some evidence b4 I make my mind up.

2 minutes ago, masterbateson71 said:

I do however know quite a few people, usually in a pub, spouting absolute rubbish about cars and car maintenance, who in fact dont know one end of a ratchet from the other.

 

 

 

I'll have a gin and lemonade whilst you're going to the bar.

 

Anyway, you won't get much because they are reliable. They recirculate gasses *after* the DPF so there will be virtually *NO* soot or other particles recycled back in to the engine. So no clogging up and no dirt. And therefore, no reason to bypass it.

As quoted by others, the VW self study guide of EA 288 certainly confirms that the exhaust gases have passed through both the CAT and the DFP before being returned to the inlet manifold. 

 

Also given that  this engine has been around for a while now, across multiple VW group vehicles, I do feel that one could conclude that there are no issues with this particular component, else this forum, along with many other well established ones i.e Audi, VW and Seat, we would by now have seen issues well documented, as was the case with the CR 2.0 that was plagued with issues and had a high failure rate.

 

I certainly don't recall ever seeing an EA288 equipped vehicle smoking like the old 1.9 and 2.0 models in all my travels😀.  

 

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Edited by paulski

I thought that my engine was an EA288?

 

The intake tract was almost completely obstructed from EGR clag after 79000 miles.

 

Is it not an EA288?

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I think yours will be an EA189? What year?

6 minutes ago, J.R. said:

I thought that my engine was an EA288?

 

The intake tract was almost completely obstructed from EGR clag after 79000 miles.

 

Is it not an EA288?

The engine changed in 2015 so it depends. Early models up to 2015 were CFHF EA189, then it changed from 2015 on to EA288. So if you have the CFHF engine, its the earlier EA189. (I think).

Thanks, is there any way that I can tell?

 

I know that it is EU5 and does not have Adblue, I think the vehicle was registered in February 2015.

 

Which is the least desirable and why?

1 minute ago, J.R. said:

Thanks, is there any way that I can tell?

 

I know that it is EU5 and does not have Adblue, I think the vehicle was registered in February 2015.

 

Which is the least desirable and why?

 

The EA288 in cars registered 1st Sept 2015 onwards is Euro 6. So you've sort of answered your own question by saying its Euro 5.

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Do EU6 engine codes start with D instead of C?

49 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Do EU6 engine codes start with D instead of C?

Not necessarily, but PR Code 7MM as seen on my car is EU6 standard

CRKB for example is EU5, but has the hardware to be EU6 compliant

 

A good rule of thumb, but no doubt some outliers exist.

What's the difference between the EU6 EA288 without AdBlue and EU5 EA288 ? 

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

paulski

Thanks for the post with the diagram and info re self study guide.

Id already sent away for an oil catch can before my post, wondering whether to still fit it?

Cant do any harm Id have thought?

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