19 minutes ago, Purpletom said:

@STU3Y - sorry for the slow reply. I’ve just done the coding as suggested (after taking out the LIN convertor) and can say that yes, like you, the heated steering wheel button on the wheel itself is now working 👍🏻 

 

Thank you for your update, that helps a lot to know that there can be full functionality of the mk4 wheel on a mk3 now that at least two of us have done it. Dead pleased. 

You're welcome. I had my lin convertor programmed to operate the phone from the travel assist button too. That way I have voice on the normal button and still have phone seperate like on the Mk3. 

 

Only thing that would be better is if the heated wheel button actually operated the heat stages rather than just turn on and off. Not sure thats possible though. Either way I love it.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 29 April, 20242 yr by STU3Y

Hi guys

 

Sadly i am back and in desperate need of help. My heated wheel had been working perfectly until a couple of weeks ago when it suddenly stopped.

 

I plugged in the obd11 and got a fault code B156613 Heat element for steering wheel heater open circuit : 

 

 

I can clear the code and it only returns when I try and turn on the heated wheel again.

 

I have tried to do some research but not had much success. It advised to measure the heat element in the wheel which should read about 1.5ohm. It measured 1.6 so should be all good.

 

If this is ok it says its most likely to be the clock spring/steering module. I have therefore ordered one from Ali which sadly this gives the same error.

 

I have fitted another heated wheel to test and that is the same. (The element on that was tested at 1.5ohm too).

 

Basically I can press the button on the wheel and it does nothing. If i turn it on by the media screen it pops up and then goes straight off as if tying to turn it on but can't. 

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. As I am lost. 

 

 

 

 

Edited 7 June, 20241 yr by STU3Y

@STU3Y - funny that you mention this, I am having the exact same issue but haven’t done anything more than plugging in VCDS and finding the same fault code as you.
 

I have also ordered a replacement clock spring but this time went for a Febi item rather than an AliExpress one. Haven’t had chance to fit it as yet. 
 

Have you tried removing the LIN convertor at all, to see if that solves the problem? 
 

Tom

10 minutes ago, Purpletom said:

@STU3Y - funny that you mention this, I am having the exact same issue but haven’t done anything more than plugging in VCDS and finding the same fault code as you.
 

I have also ordered a replacement clock spring but this time went for a Febi item rather than an AliExpress one. Haven’t had chance to fit it as yet. 
 

Have you tried removing the LIN convertor at all, to see if that solves the problem? 
 

Tom

I haven't removed the lin, as did not think that would have any connection with the heating side of the wheel. 

 

How much was your febi spring?

2 minutes ago, STU3Y said:

I haven't removed the lin, as did not think that would have any connection with the heating side of the wheel. 

 

How much was your febi spring?

Strangely I think my ali one may actually be a genuine one, as most are only marked AG but mine is VW AG, and came in a VW packaging. 

 

Plus it is dated 2017, so suspect it could even be a used one. The seller claims it is a brand new old stock, genuine part, and basically told me to get on the forums for help as thw part will not be defective. If i had no luck then he suggested return it for a refund. 

Might go unpaid the lin in a minute and see. I just never like touching anything without the battery disconnected, which is annoying keep doing. 

18 minutes ago, STU3Y said:

Might go unpaid the lin in a minute and see. I just never like touching anything without the battery disconnected, which is annoying keep doing. 

No difference with adapter removed. Just lose bakc buttom, phone and additional menu

I am messaging the guy o got the lin from as he fits wheels all the time. He said to check the power line wiring to the paddle block. Not sure what that means. Seeking clarification 

3 hours ago, STU3Y said:

Hi guys

 

Sadly i am back and in desperate need of help. My heated wheel had been working perfectly until a couple of weeks ago when it suddenly stopped.

 

I plugged in the obd11 and got a fault code B156613 Heat element for steering wheel heater open circuit : 

 

 

I can clear the code and it only returns when I try and turn on the heated wheel again.

 

I have tried to do some research but not had much success. It advised to measure the heat element in the wheel which should read about 1.5ohm. It measured 1.6 so should be all good.

 

If this is ok it says its most likely to be the clock spring/steering module. I have therefore ordered one from Ali which sadly this gives the same error.

 

I have fitted another heated wheel to test and that is the same. (The element on that was tested at 1.5ohm too).

 

Basically I can press the button on the wheel and it does nothing. If i turn it on by the media screen it pops up and then goes straight off as if tying to turn it on but can't. 

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. As I am lost. 

 

 

 

 

You are jumping to far too many conclusions and changing far too many parts without the full diagnosis!

 

Start with the basics - is the fuse okay? If so, have you got power at the steering clockspring where it goes into the back?

If so, the large ground right next to it, is this good? Not just a resistance test, but a load test.

 

Once these are confirmed to be okay - with readings, post your findings and i can advise further.

11 minutes ago, ApertureS said:

You are jumping to far too many conclusions and changing far too many parts without the full diagnosis!

 

Start with the basics - is the fuse okay? If so, have you got power at the steering clockspring where it goes into the back?

If so, the large ground right next to it, is this good? Not just a resistance test, but a load test.

 

Once these are confirmed to be okay - with readings, post your findings and i can advise further.

Hi, thanks for the response. Sadly I am a bit useless when it comes to this stuff, hence why I went the plug and play route with the adapter. 

 

The fuse is fine.

 

Can you advise how to do the checks you mention. I can follow guides etc but rely on the expertise of others who have figured it out.

 

I have just checked the resistance and continuity on all the adpater loom and new fuse wire. All was at 00.2 ohms.

 

Couldn't see any damage to wires or loose contacts etc.

 

Edited 7 June, 20241 yr by STU3Y

2 minutes ago, STU3Y said:

Hi, thanks for the response. Sadly I am a bit useless when it comes to this stuff, hence why I went the plug and play route with the adapter. 

 

The fuse is fine.

 

Can you advise how to do the checks you mention. I can follow guides etc but rely on the expertise of others who have figured it out.

 

I have just checked the resistance and continuity on all the adpater loom and new fuse wire. All was at 00.2 ohms.

 

Couldn't see any damage to wires or loose contacts etc.

 

Disconnect the plug at the back of the clockspring.

Set multimeter to DC Volts

Put the red end of your multimeter in the plug end wire that is for the heated steering wheel power (big red)

Put the black end of the multimeter to a known good ground (door checkstrap or something like that)

 

What reading do you get? 

31 minutes ago, ApertureS said:

Disconnect the plug at the back of the clockspring.

Set multimeter to DC Volts

Put the red end of your multimeter in the plug end wire that is for the heated steering wheel power (big red)

Put the black end of the multimeter to a known good ground (door checkstrap or something like that)

 

What reading do you get? 

Will check when I can, on nights tonight so had to put it back together for now to get ready. 

 

Engine running or not?

10 hours ago, Purpletom said:

@STU3Y - funny that you mention this, I am having the exact same issue but haven’t done anything more than plugging in VCDS and finding the same fault code as you.
 

I have also ordered a replacement clock spring but this time went for a Febi item rather than an AliExpress one. Haven’t had chance to fit it as yet. 
 

Have you tried removing the LIN convertor at all, to see if that solves the problem? 
 

Tom

Just a random thought. Can you go back into your coding turn the heated wheel button off and see that makes any difference. For some reason I can't seem to access it anymore. 

Pretty Sure thats where I turned off my flappy paddles too and haven't got back into it since. Dont know if that's related as the wheel worked while it was like this. Given that you are having the same issue, would be good to know if you can access it or not?

 

Anyone have any ideas why I can't access this any more

@STU3Y - I’m not 100% certain, but I found I couldn’t access that adaptation while the LIN convertor was fitted. You may need to try removing it again, removing the adaptation then refitting. These are all things I need to try, along with the obvious physical checks of wiring/fuse etc.

https://www.drive2.ru/l/668838421808044836/

 

Its Russian so needs translating, but it is the  most likely issue. Seems tk be lots of people of the drive forum reporting the same. Once soldered seems to fix it. 

 

Worth considering.

 

Not done anything myself yet, will be taking a look tomorrow

21 hours ago, STU3Y said:

https://www.drive2.ru/l/668838421808044836/

 

Its Russian so needs translating, but it is the  most likely issue. Seems tk be lots of people of the drive forum reporting the same. Once soldered seems to fix it. 

 

Worth considering.

 

Not done anything myself yet, will be taking a look tomorrow

So now checked my clock spring. As you can see the terminals are not even touching properly which has resulted in the others getting got and being burnt.

 

it is these that grab the pins for the heater. As the Russian forum suggests my mate has now soldered them and the problem is solved. Heated wheel is back to normal and fully operational. No fault codes.

 

Not pretty but has done the job. 

 

@Purpletom Take yours apart and solder it and pretry sure it will solve the issue. Then you can send your febi one back or sell it.

On 07/06/2024 at 15:50, STU3Y said:

I haven't removed the lin, as did not think that would have any connection with the heating side of the wheel. 

 

How much was your febi spring?

To confirm. You are correct, I can access the module with lin convertor out,  but not with it in.

Hello all,

 

I also want to retrofit a HSW on my 2016 Octavia. I found a heated steering wheel but my search of an airbag was not so quite successful. I am not able to find one (6V0 880 201 T 1ZY) as mentioned by @Purpletom but I found an airbag that seems to come from a heated steering wheel (2017 model, so it is the facelift) and has the product number 3V0880201 AA. My current clock spring is 5Q0 953 569 A and it has 16 pins. Reading through the posts here I will need to upgrade it but there seem to be different opinions if it should be the B, C, or D version of the 5Q0 953 549 X.

So, before investing in the parts, I wanted to ask few quick questions:

·        Would the 3V0880201 AA airbag fit a heated steering wheel as well (the HSW that I want to purchase is a 565419091G from 2017)

·        Which clock spring exactly do I need

·        I have no heated seats, can I only retrofit a HSW? I saw that the coding requires both to be active and will show on the display. So, not sure it will work

·        Would it be possible to code with a OBD adaptor and an app like Car Scanner (full version)

 

Many thanks in advance.

On 07/06/2024 at 15:54, STU3Y said:

Strangely I think my ali one may actually be a genuine one, as most are only marked AG but mine is VW AG, and came in a VW packaging. 

 

Plus it is dated 2017, so suspect it could even be a used one. The seller claims it is a brand new old stock, genuine part, and basically told me to get on the forums for help as thw part will not be defective. If i had no luck then he suggested return it for a refund. 

Hi @STU3Y, would you be able to provide a link (maybe PM) to the clock spring that you got from Ali? I decided to go forward and start the mod. Just got a HSW from a MK3 (the only difference is that it has one different button: cruise distance vs phone on my car) but I think that should be ok. If not, I will exchange the buttons between both SWs. Then I will need to find an airbag and start the cabling, possibly as suggested by @Purpletom.

 

BTW, thank you guys for all the descriptions and discussions - they are very useful.

 

21 minutes ago, dkutsarov said:

Hi @STU3Y, would you be able to provide a link (maybe PM) to the clock spring that you got from Ali? I decided to go forward and start the mod. Just got a HSW from a MK3 (the only difference is that it has one different button: cruise distance vs phone on my car) but I think that should be ok. If not, I will exchange the buttons between both SWs. Then I will need to find an airbag and start the cabling, possibly as suggested by @Purpletom.

 

BTW, thank you guys for all the descriptions and discussions - they are very useful.

 

Hi @dkutsarov

 

I don’t know if it’s of any interest to you but I’ve got a brand new Febi clock spring that I bought to replace my damaged one. I didn’t need it in the end as I repaired mine as per the post @STU3Y put on about solder repairs. 
 

I paid £153 posted from eBay earlier this year. I’d be happy to do £140 posted if you’re in the UK.

 

Thanks

Tom

Hi, 

Great guide on how to carry out this retrofit upgrade. I'm very interested in fitting this to my '65 Reg Octavia Scout to go with the heated seats and front screen, as I too suffer with Raynauds. 

 

On searching through the menu of my infotainment screen however, I could not find the HVAC section. Is this only on certain models? 

Is it still possible to to run the HSW without this screen? 

I noted on your Seat guide, the Seat steering wheel came with it's own button for the function, no such luck with the Skoda wheels it seems? 

 

Thanks for any help 

 

Kind regards 

9 minutes ago, Whitie said:

Hi, 

Great guide on how to carry out this retrofit upgrade. I'm very interested in fitting this to my '65 Reg Octavia Scout to go with the heated seats and front screen, as I too suffer with Raynauds. 

 

On searching through the menu of my infotainment screen however, I could not find the HVAC section. Is this only on certain models? 

Is it still possible to to run the HSW without this screen? 

I noted on your Seat guide, the Seat steering wheel came with it's own button for the function, no such luck with the Skoda wheels it seems? 

 

Thanks for any help 

 

Kind regards 

Hi,

 

No, there is no button on the HSW that was made for the mk3, albeit the mk4 wheels DO have a button, it’s just a bit more involved to get it working.

 

However, the HVAC menu is accessed by pressing the ‘menu’ button in the middle of your climate control module:

 

 

Once the HSW is installed and coded then you press that button to access the menu for it 👍🏻

Ahhhh, THAT menu button! 

Thank you for the quick informative reply, I've only used the car for less than a thousand miles, so still aspects of it I've not explored (only noticed it had a heated front screen the other week!). 

🍻 

8 hours ago, Whitie said:

Ahhhh, THAT menu button! 

Thank you for the quick informative reply, I've only used the car for less than a thousand miles, so still aspects of it I've not explored (only noticed it had a heated front screen the other week!). 

🍻

That’s a nice option to have, I’ve got the same on my car and winter mornings are so much nicer now - a lot less scraping in the morning! 
 

In terms of the retrofit, it should be very straightforward on your car because you’ll be able to get hold of a steering wheel that exactly matches what’s already fitted to your Scout 👍🏻

15 hours ago, Purpletom said:

That’s a nice option to have, I’ve got the same on my car and winter mornings are so much nicer now - a lot less scraping in the morning! 
 

In terms of the retrofit, it should be very straightforward on your car because you’ll be able to get hold of a steering wheel that exactly matches what’s already fitted to your Scout 👍🏻

Indeed; I noticed whilst searching through the onscreen options, the screen element comes on when demist is selected automatically. Handy as I've been running the car with no heater matrix whilst I flush out the dreaded silica debris 😕

 

I've just taken delivery of a 2019 wheel and airbag someone was offloading after upgrading their mk3 to a mk4 wheel. 

Just the slip ring part number to check on VCDS and then I was thinking of trying one of the cheaper versions of the kuftec loom adapters that go for £15. I can always use it to make my own if inadequate in some way I presume. 

 

I've always fancied a HSW since the days I worked in main dealer VW/Audi garages, and used to see it as an option on North American vehicles when coding certain control units in! 

Hopefully it goes without a hitch 🤞