Flat tappet motors need high ZDDP content, although going crazy causes more wear due to the polar molecules ripping out parts of the material as they build up too thick. 

Adhesion wear if I'm not mistaken and don't be fooled molybdenum only binds yo non ferrous metals zinc-phosphorus is useful for ferrous metals such as flat tappets. 

 

28 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Flat tappet motors need high ZDDP content, although going crazy causes more wear due to the polar molecules ripping out parts of the material as they build up too thick. 

Adhesion wear if I'm not mistaken and don't be fooled molybdenum only binds yo non ferrous metals zinc-phosphorus is useful for ferrous metals such as flat tappets. 

 

ISTR that some Skoda OHV engines have a mixture of steel and aluminium tappets.

42 minutes ago, Paws4Thot said:

ISTR that some Skoda OHV engines have a mixture of steel and aluminium tappets.

Not tappets, pushrods. Injected 135/136 engines have aluminium pushrods for intake, steel for exhaust.

5 hours ago, Papez said:

Not tappets, pushrods. Injected 135/136 engines have aluminium pushrods for intake, steel for exhaust.

I presumed that the pushrods in question are monometallic, but the slack adjusters are always steel, If so, then you have bimetallic bearing faces at both ends of the intake pushrods.

9 hours ago, Papez said:

oil/water heat exchanger from VWs

 

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/knowledge_base_articles/view/laminova-oil-water-heat-exchangers-319

 

Like this?

Flat tappet engines (and all engines) need high protection from wear which may include levels of ZDDP, zinc but also other elements to the additive packages, it's the combination of the elements of the additive package and how these suit the engine in question that matters rather than any particular figure or amount of ZDDPs.  Having a good quality base oil will help the engine generally but the additive package will be about the base oil and the additive package itself, things working as a team rather than one star player.

 

As for oil/water coolers to me that just seem to complicate things unnecessarily here, something I know the German engineers might favour to be "simply clever" but to me it's not it's doubling the work and risks (or more than double) for something to go wrong, oil and water don't mix together well.

 

As the car doesn't have an oil cooler for all these [ years (decades) ] I'm not sure if it needs one now but it's not my car and looking to the future if there are to be more hotter days more often then it could be a good idea used along with a high quality oil suitable for the extremes of the weather and use of car.

 

Edited 5 July, 20241 yr by nta16
[ missing words ]

7 hours ago, Paws4Thot said:

I presumed that the pushrods in question are monometallic, but the slack adjusters are always steel, If so, then you have bimetallic bearing faces at both ends of the intake pushrods.

the aluminium pushrods have steel ends.

 

5 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Like this?

Like this:

The heat exchanger comes from Felicia 1.9D or similar:

 

Unfortunately it requires a custom part due to different threads between Skoda and VW blocks. I remember seeing a drawing, but cannot find it..

 

 

I also found mention of a Renault heat exchanger which is supposedly easier to fit, but I found no more info apart from this picture

Edited 5 July, 20241 yr by Papez

 

From another car

£410.18

 

But i saw this too

https://m.antallaktikaonline.gr/nrf/13865170?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&tb_prm=18646437765&gshp=1&gad_source=1

 

Big price difference !

 

 

16 hours ago, nta16 said:

the A-series engine and shared gearbox

Do you mean same oil for engine and gearbox?

 

16 hours ago, nta16 said:

and then how many ZDDPs is required? 

People on the forums debate this much.

 

16 hours ago, nta16 said:

I am a bit confused why you have chosen a diesel oil and then used API for petrol engine, plus what makes SJ suitable for OHV and not later specs,

Again, people on the forums say that, SJ was the oldest standard still being monitored. Older than SJ are labelled "obsolete".

I can not always find what I want. Sometimes my options are limited.

 

15 hours ago, Papez said:

I haven't heard of any factory cooler on front-engined Skodas, do you have some more info?

3 hours ago, nta16 said:

As for oil/water coolers to me that just seem to complicate things unnecessarily here, something I know the German engineers might favour to be "simply clever" but to me it's not it's doubling the work and risks (or more than double) for something to go wrong, oil and water don't mix together well.

 

As the car doesn't have an oil cooler for all these I'm not sure if it needs one now but it's not my car and looking to the future if there are to be more hotter days more often then it could be a good idea used along with a high quality oil suitable for the extremes of the weather and use of car.

I'm thinking like you. Keeping the car light and uncomplicated should be the target. Because, it was designed this way. To be light.

I'll only install an oil cooler If I really must.

 

@Papez You rock. Like always.

I've also found some info about Ford pinto engine oil cooler sandwich plate might fit.

 

Here are some photos I took today:

 

 

 

 

 

PCV hose is wet. The air box cap is wet.

 

Also:

https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x91krh6

https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x91krds

 

Edited 5 July, 20241 yr by R_Blue

Oil to water heat exchangers are more like equilibrium devices than oil coolers per se.

I don't like them 

10 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Oil to water heat exchangers are more like equilibrium devices than oil coolers per se.

I don't like them 

Does a stock engine need anything more than that? 

 

@R_Blue - what book is that?

Oil coolers were used on some rear-engined Skodas before introduction of alloy oil pans, but Favorit?

25 minutes ago, Papez said:

what book is that?

Oil coolers were used on some rear-engined Skodas before introduction of alloy oil pans, but Favorit?

Haynes.

30 minutes ago, R_Blue said:

Haynes.

I found mention in Andrt's book, it says special/optional equipment but nothing about origin.. and no mention of thermostat.

 

Trying to find some more info, I only found some old listings, showing that it was made by Autopal (manufacturer of the factory coolant radiators)

And photos of installed cooler

1 hour ago, R_Blue said:

Do you mean same oil for engine and gearbox?

Yes, but not that part rather the progression from 30 engine oil to 20w-50 it encouraged.

 

1 hour ago, R_Blue said:

People on the forums debate this much.

Yes I know I've been in debates about oil beliefs for many years mainly related to my last "classic" but also wider debates about engine that I should or should not use from my very first "classic", most responders were basing their posts on out of date information, I've done the same on other subjects, I often get many things wrong but I've learnt through life so do many other people and some are willing to learn and others are not, ordinary mechanics and engineers tend to be quite stubborn and still to what they were trained or learnt even if that was decades ago (you can extended that to some medical people too.  Problem is what works for one person or for one car or engine may not work so well for others with the same model (hopefully you heard this from someone else in one of the vids).

 

1 hour ago, R_Blue said:

Again, people on the forums say that, SJ was the oldest standard still being monitored. Older than SJ are labelled "obsolete".

I can not always find what I want. Sometimes my options are limited.

The vid(s) cover this, the tests relate to a very tiny number of engines so there are numerous variables anyway in the real world and simulated or indoor tests are not the same as real world use only real time can really tell you and then it's a range of results based on numerous variables, this is part of the reason why the German and VW engineers keep changing their recommendations and specifications and numbers on the oils and coolant, along with continuous "improvements" of course. 😁

 

1 hour ago, R_Blue said:

PCV hose is wet. The air box cap is wet.

 

Also:

You have others that know a lot more about this here than I but again it suggests crankcase pressure to me.  Have you tried removing the oil filler cap whilst the engine is running at idle to see if that changes the RPM?   You could also perhaps try running at just about 'MIN' on the engine dipstick and only top up to that level to regularly keep to that level and see if that makes any difference at all, trying the removing oil filler cap at that level too.

 

Different engine I know, but you could also try putting a rubber glove over the oil filler neck with the cap removed and engine running at various RPM, see if it inflates and how much, this was a good display for an A-series engine owner that had had the car and engine for decades and was trying to get to the bottom of why some A-series Spridgets blue -smoked sometimes when other Spridgets never did.

 

1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Oil to water heat exchangers are more like equilibrium devices than oil coolers per se.

I don't like them 

Only out of curiosity do you mean you don't like oil only coolers?

 

1 hour ago, R_Blue said:

Haynes.

Haynes isn't always correct with details - they have a good museum though and have at least one of our members cars in their collection and they have invited our club their to use the little running track so I declare an interest and don't knock them too much (well not often).

 

 

22 minutes ago, Papez said:

and no mention of thermostat

That's fair enough but would you want an oil cooler for -18c winter weather.  I used my Spridgets and all other modern and "classic" cars through all winters and the Spridget coolant gauge did not get too far from the 'C' for cold on some winter days runs and they did not have oil coolers (with or without oilstats) and I had removed the engine driven cooling fan on the last Spridget so the engine would warm up quicker and have more chance not to cool more when driving around town.

 

ETA: presuming it get some airflow there that is a better position for the oil cooler than in front of the water cooling rad.

 

Edited 5 July, 20241 yr by nta16

40 minutes ago, Papez said:

I found mention in Andrt's book, it says special/optional equipment but nothing about origin.. and no mention of thermostat.

 

Trying to find some more info, I only found some old listings, showing that it was made by Autopal (manufacturer of the factory coolant radiators)

And photos of installed cooler

I LIKE THAT A HECK OF A LOT SIGN ME UP

32 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Only out of curiosity do you mean you don't like oil only coolers?

I'm not too fond of oil-to-water heat exchangers because the minimum oil temperature is always greater than the minimum water temperature.... 

16 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

I'm not too fond of oil-to-water heat exchangers because the minimum oil temperature is always greater than the minimum water temperature.... 

 

Which is the case without oil cooler as well... Idle, no load:

(Isn't it funny that TC-6 can show more than 100C, so it can be used to monitor coolant/oil temp? 😁)

 

So in this case, water/oil exchanger is better than no cooker at all, although arguably not as good as proper coolwr. On the other hand, it helps to warm up the oil as well and keeps stable temp without additional components and high pressure hoses.

While searching:

Chladič oleje Škoda Favorit

 

https://www.skoda-dily.cz/nahradni-dil/038117021a-chladic-oleje-tdi-cina-28772.html

This is for 1.9 TDI

 

https://pragos.cz/veterani/clanek?id=1049&business=1

 

https://aukro.cz/olejovy-chladic-skoda-1000-100-110-120-130-6971221175

For older Skoda models.

2 hours ago, Papez said:

Isn't it funny that TC-6 can show more than 100C

 

Every gauge has his own sensor and it's calibrated, switcing sensor and gauges created only a mess.

TC-6 has a simple plastic sensor, compared to another (simple and cheap) digital thermometer is very close in indications.

I have it to measure the incoming air (after the air filter), just to use it, i don't relay on it in something crucial.

32 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

Every gauge has his own sensor and it's calibrated, switcing sensor and gauges created only a mess.

 

It uses thermistor with known characteristics. As long as you use a thermistor with same characteristics, it'll work, it doesn't matter how it's encased.

3 times my electrician failed to ''marry'' sensor from othes gauges to other instrument, never worked properly that's why assumed that this is some kind of ''general rule''.

Examples:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184080832085

https://www.desertcart.ec/products/69989092

https://www.amazon.com/52mm-Water-Temp-Gauge

5 hours ago, nta16 said:

I used my Spridgets and all other modern and "classic" cars through all winters and the Spridget coolant gauge did not get too far from the 'C' for cold on some winter days runs

One of my friends had an M*n*, and the temperature indicator on that only just climbed out of the blue, even in Summer.

5 minutes ago, Paws4Thot said:

One of my friends had an M*n*, and the temperature indicator on that only just climbed out of the blue, even in Summer.

Depends which age of Mini and the gauge, I, IIRC, on my last Spridget had four different dual gauges (oil pressure/water temp) one returned as it didn't register the same as the two before and one after and I contacted the "Smiths" manufacturer (carbolt-ish sort of name) in Wales and learnt about their calibration for the water, this was closed ether tube with end bulb type of system not electric sender and gauge type.  My coolant needle was well before the 'N' on the gauge for normal running, others owners worried about the needle being on the 'N' and the 'N' 80-somthing C, I always said to look at the combined gauge and if it showed about 5 to 10 passed 7 as a clock that was fine, if mine got to 'N' it meant it was a bit warmer than normal so I set the variable control for the electric fan to keep the needle before 'N'.

 

D.FYLAKTOS would have a heart attack if he had B V8 with numbers on the dual gauge, oil pressure at idle being so low and water temp when it gets really hot and the needle pushing into the bigger numbers on the oil pressure part of the gauge.  A mate had a Rover P5B and at tickover the oil pressure needle barely rose and even clogging along the needle didn't raise itself too much, I can't remember if it changed with the TVR 4l engine, such a heavy car (not compared to todays lardy cars) I can't remember that much difference in performance to the original 3.5 but I only drove it a few times with each engine.  I did notice on following him back from the NEC the very small rear tail lights on a grey car out in the dark countryside a reflective rear numberplate would have sorted that but of course black goes with grey (to, too, many).