Hello! 

A couple of months ago a bought a beauty (jks, the old man who sold it, sold it because he cant see anymore so you can guess how it looks on the outside)

But inside, very nice. It only has 70.000km on it. 

BUT, there are a lot of problems that i need help fixing. So i am just gonna line them up and if you know whats wrong, i really appricate your help. 

(im not a good mechanic but i know aaa little lol) 

 

Problem 1:

From no where, it started overheating (cooling pump changed last year).

And the fan is not starting. The thermostat also broke. So i changed both the thermostat and the heatingsensor just to be sure. 
and its better now but it still overheats. The fan is not starting either. I have ordered a new fan relay and thermostatsensor or whatever you call it. 
I dont think the actual fan is broken since i have tested if electricity passes through it and it does. 
 

The question: If i am going lets say a 100km/h why is the car still overheating. I mean it cant matter if the fan is on or not in that speed? (or does it?)

I live in Sweden, we have like 18-25C. Also, if i cranck the AC on max speed and heating the car stays a pretty solid 90. 

I should also mention that there is a tiny leak, (drops) from where the heatingsensor sits. But if i still have a lot of coolant does a leak matter?  

Is the pressure not building up right maybe? 

 

Problem 2:

Easy fix i guess, the headlights "always on" switch on the steering wheel isnt working, what do i need to change? 

It works if you pull it towards you to, you know "flash" but not the "switch". 

 

Problem 3: The steeringwheel is a little bit sideways. Do i need to calibrate my tires/steering idk the english word. 
Or is it something else? 

 

Problem 4: Is it easy to change the fuelfilter? I looks really tricky considering how they placed it lol. 

 

Problem 5: The radio, i would like it to turn on/off when i turn on/off the car. Does someone have the wiring schematic so i can change that?

 

Problem 6: Putting the gear into reverse can be a bit hard sometimes (only sometimes), any guesses as to why that is?

 

Problem 7: When i completely release the gaspedal the car goes "boing boing" if you know what i mean haha. Like it "jumps" once/twice. WHY? cuz its an old car or something else? 

 

Problem 8: if anyone knows how to make the clutch more smooth please tell, i have greased it all up and its better but still a little wonky. 

 

I would also love any gerneral tips/tricks to look at, things to think about regard the car. Want to fix her up to a real beauty/daily beater. 

I live in the mountains and drive on bad roads etc so yea. Shes not gonna be clean haha but i want her to drive well. 

 

A big thanks to anyone who helps. I used to be able to ask my dad but since i live far away now, im asking you guys. Thanks!

 

 

 

@Felicia98noob

 

P3 suggests to me that the tracking has been adjusted by winding all the adjustment on or off one side. Look at the threads at the outer track rod ends. Is one of them much longer than the other?

 

P5 You describe "normal behaviour" with standard and most correctly installed aftermarket stereos. As you say, you need the wiring schematic, but some Skodas reversed the permanent and ignition live connections so you may need a wiring adaptor with an aftermarket stereo.

Problem 1 - The fan switch sits in the radiator, if there's no flow to the radiator, it won't turn on. Check if the tube going to the radiator warms up when it sits on idle. But ito Sunds like the thermostat is not working properly (it can happen even with new thermostat). To rule this out, you can remove the thermostat valve.

 

9 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

Problem 2:

Easy fix i guess, the headlights "always on" switch on the steering wheel isnt working, what do i need to change? 

It works if you pull it towards you to, you know "flash" but not the "switch". 

 Do you mean high/low beam switch? That might be faulty switch in the lever itself.

 

9 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

Problem 3: The steeringwheel is a little bit sideways. Do i need to calibrate my tires/steering idk the english word. 
Or is it something else? 

 

Yes, it might be a symptom of misaligned geometry, get it checked. 

 

9 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

Problem 5: The radio, i would like it to turn on/off when i turn on/off the car. Does someone have the wiring schematic so i can change that?

There's a circuit that simulates function of a newer car - the radio stays on as long as the key is in the ignition.

https://www.sp-el.cz/Felicia-S-kontakt-d1149.htm#detail-anchor-description

 

9 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

Problem 6: Putting the gear into reverse can be a bit hard sometimes (only sometimes), any guesses as to why that is?

 

Reverse is meshing a gear between other two gears - if they are rotated in "right" position, it won't fit, especially if the gear is a bit worn from skipping teeth by shifting reverse in movement.

What helps is to briefly release the clutch in neutral to spin the gearbox.

 

9 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

Problem 7: When i completely release the gaspedal the car goes "boing boing" if you know what i mean haha. Like it "jumps" once/twice. WHY? cuz its an old car or something else? 

 

It's an old car with cable operated throttle, so sudden release rapidly reverses torque going from the engine (newer cars have electronic throttle valve, which is slower in those situations exactly for this reason).

The engine is mounted in rubber bushings, which shift from one end position to other and then flex a bit, which is the jumping you describe.

Worn out mounts can make this effect worse.

 

 

10 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

Problem 3: The steeringwheel is a little bit sideways. Do i need to calibrate my tires/steering idk the english word. 

 

Problem 4: Is it easy to change the fuelfilter? I looks really tricky considering how they placed it lol. 

 

Problem 5: The radio, i would like it to turn on/off when i turn on/off the car. Does someone have the wiring schematic so i can change that?

 

Problem 8: if anyone knows how to make the clutch more smooth please tell, i have greased it all up and its better but still a little wonky. 

 

First you can try by youreself, there is a bolt in the centre when you remove the horn, pull out gently the steering wheel and put it back where you want (the wheels must be straight). Otherwise you have to go to a repair shop for this task, the mechanic will calibrate it in few minutes, the cost is 20 euro here.

 

It's difficult to reach it where it is, 2 clamps at least plus one that keeps it in place.

 

The electrician can do it opening when the key is On 1 scale or turn on-off any time you want, in GR i older years the electrician was ask you first of all ''with the key on or not"? Some guys want to have music in their car even when it's off, it's risky because if you forget it can ruin your battery.

 

You can not make it smoother or harder, all you can do it's to adjust it lower of higher position compared to the other pedals, there is a bolt in the end of it's wire inside the engine bay.

You want to give the whole car a 60,000 km or 120,000 km service/ check.  You may need to do this in stages between driving the car.  You should start with the important systems first, the brakes, steering and suspension - all three include the tyres - then on to safety electrics (lights, horns, wipers, blower, etc.) and glass (windscreen, window, mirrors) last should be trivia like the radio.

 

Having a good battery in good state of connection (and secured in place) and good state of charge and health as this will help with starting, running of the engine and help with diagnosing and fixing electrical problems.

 

The reverse issue could be any part of the linkage, perhaps gearbox low on oil, a clutch issue or your technique of selecting reverse gear.  You certainly want to check the gearbox oil level and personally I would a thorough change of oil (all fluid changes should be thorough not just a quick cold drain and refill).

 

I would also do a thorough clean and inspection of the whole cooling/heating system, inside and out, and a thorough clean, drain and refill of the coolant.  Have you checked the radiator and cleaned it, checked the brakes are not dragging or the exhaust is partially blocked.  The gauge showing 90 does not correspond with you saying the car overheats.  The engine is also cooled by the engine oil so again a thorough change of engine oil (and oil filter) with perhaps if required some sort of cleaning.  For engine also air filter and spark plugs.  Also adjustment and lubrication of engine controls as required (includes accelerator pedal and cable).  GT85 is a good lubricant and also penetrating/releasing fluid.

 

Reading and referring to the Owner's Manual for the car (this is not the Workshop (repair) manual) will tell you a lot about the car and how to look after it and drive it.

 

Have you driven any other Felicias (1.6 or not) to know how well your car should or could perform or owned and driven any other cars from the last century?

 

ETA: by-the-way, hi and welcome.

 

Good photos of the car and the parts where you are having issues might help with resolving them and spot anything amiss - please take these photos in landscape (not portrait) as generally this shows more by getting more in the photos.

 

Is the car standard or has it been modified or had changes or items added, a change or added electrical item(s) can mean someone has messed up the car's wiring or damaged something.

 

Edited 31 July, 20241 yr by nta16
welcome

P1:

Check the thermostat opens check power going to thermoswitch and fan if it is a single speed will be driven directly by the thermoswitch's output. 

12 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

should also mention that there is a tiny leak, (drops) from where the heatingsensor sits. But if i still have a lot of coolant does a leak matter?  

Don't bother usually a new crush washer will rectify that but I prefer one it 2 drops instead of stripping the threads 

P2: new stalk cheap and easy to source new ones (non oem) 

P3: take it to an alignment shop 

P4 jack the rear left tire up and remove the heatshield then you have easy access 

P5 what @PapezPapez said

P6 upgrade gear oil to high performance gl4+ by liqui moly then report back 

P7 typical felicia behavior, check torque mount on the gearbox if worn replace 

P8 as the clutch pressure plate wears clutch feel becomes ****, a new cable and lubing the pedal pivot will help a little bit, but do them when yoh fit a new clutch kit 

Edited 31 July, 20241 yr by Thefeliciahacker

@Felicia98noob with a car that is 25 years old, with the age, use and particularly previous owners there are so many variables that have affected the car to how it is now, with just forum posts usually there are few instant answers, you have been a range of good information but no one has seen your car and are not standing in front of it or driving or passenger seat so can not see, hear, smell, taste, feel or touch your car.  Each issue may (or may not) have more than one cause to it too. So normally information is given, questions asked then more information based on the answers given, it's a process of diagnostics from a distance.

 

Doing patch repairs is all well and good to keep the car useable but sooner rather than later full investigation and rectification is required for best outcomes and general reliable use of the car.  Doing full and proper servicing (and maintenance) and checks of the whole car, whilst also using the car, will help highlight, find and fix issues sooner which will reduce further issues and problems that exist now or may occur later.  Servicing is not just an engine oil and oil filter change, that does not even fully service the engine let alone the whole car.  Each part, component or system that is operating at least reasonably will help with other parts, components and systems operation.

 

Much of servicing and maintenance and some repairs boil down to clean and lubricate - that's basically what an engine oil (or other fluids) and oil filter change is and things like deleting error codes is cleaning.

 

An example - but I don't have enough information from your post so may well be wrong - the headlight switch, I take as the column stalk switch to go from full beam to dip beam, this may, initially at least, be sorted with a little spray of electrical contact cleaner (or swich cleaner lubricant) and then using the switch repeatedly as this may clean the contact area if this is problem - anything like this is best done with the battery disconnected particularly on a car you don't know the history of.

      

13 hours ago, Paws4Thot said:

@Felicia98noob

 

P3 suggests to me that the tracking has been adjusted by winding all the adjustment on or off one side. Look at the threads at the outer track rod ends. Is one of them much longer than the other?

 

P5 You describe "normal behaviour" with standard and most correctly installed aftermarket stereos. As you say, you need the wiring schematic, but some Skodas reversed the permanent and ignition live connections so you may need a wiring adaptor with an aftermarket stereo.

 

Ill check thanks, 

Yea it is an aftermarket stereo actually, really wanted BT so had to change. 
I will look into it thanks! 

8 hours ago, Papez said:

Problem 1 - The fan switch sits in the radiator, if there's no flow to the radiator, it won't turn on. Check if the tube going to the radiator warms up when it sits on idle. But ito Sunds like the thermostat is not working properly (it can happen even with new thermostat). To rule this out, you can remove the thermostat valve.

 

 Do you mean high/low beam switch? That might be faulty switch in the lever itself.

 

 

Yes, it might be a symptom of misaligned geometry, get it checked. 

 

There's a circuit that simulates function of a newer car - the radio stays on as long as the key is in the ignition.

https://www.sp-el.cz/Felicia-S-kontakt-d1149.htm#detail-anchor-description

 

 

Reverse is meshing a gear between other two gears - if they are rotated in "right" position, it won't fit, especially if the gear is a bit worn from skipping teeth by shifting reverse in movement.

What helps is to briefly release the clutch in neutral to spin the gearbox.

 

 

It's an old car with cable operated throttle, so sudden release rapidly reverses torque going from the engine (newer cars have electronic throttle valve, which is slower in those situations exactly for this reason).

The engine is mounted in rubber bushings, which shift from one end position to other and then flex a bit, which is the jumping you describe.

Worn out mounts can make this effect worse.

 

 

P1: Both tubes are warm while driving, one more than the other, so i can try to drive without a thermostat? To see if that helps? 

 

- Yea exactly, okey ill check the switch. I am thinking that the relay must work considering that it works one-way? 

- Ill get that checked then, thanks.

 

- Thaank you goood sir! 

 

- Thanks youu!

 

- I see ill look at that rubber then. 

 

Thanks mate! 
 

7 hours ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

 

First you can try by youreself, there is a bolt in the centre when you remove the horn, pull out gently the steering wheel and put it back where you want (the wheels must be straight). Otherwise you have to go to a repair shop for this task, the mechanic will calibrate it in few minutes, the cost is 20 euro here.

 

It's difficult to reach it where it is, 2 clamps at least plus one that keeps it in place.

 

The electrician can do it opening when the key is On 1 scale or turn on-off any time you want, in GR i older years the electrician was ask you first of all ''with the key on or not"? Some guys want to have music in their car even when it's off, it's risky because if you forget it can ruin your battery.

 

You can not make it smoother or harder, all you can do it's to adjust it lower of higher position compared to the other pedals, there is a bolt in the end of it's wire inside the engine bay.

- Thank you mate, ill probably leave the calibrating to a mechanic, 

 

- Yea okey hahaha ill manage, dont understand why they placed it so tricky hahaha. 

- Yea exactly thats the problem, i always forget to turn it off when im in a rush... But ill look into it, want it with the keys. 

 

- Yea i have "fixed" the cable so its better, i guess its just because its an older car and me not being used to it. 

6 hours ago, nta16 said:

You want to give the whole car a 60,000 km or 120,000 km service/ check.  You may need to do this in stages between driving the car.  You should start with the important systems first, the brakes, steering and suspension - all three include the tyres - then on to safety electrics (lights, horns, wipers, blower, etc.) and glass (windscreen, window, mirrors) last should be trivia like the radio.

 

Having a good battery in good state of connection (and secured in place) and good state of charge and health as this will help with starting, running of the engine and help with diagnosing and fixing electrical problems.

 

The reverse issue could be any part of the linkage, perhaps gearbox low on oil, a clutch issue or your technique of selecting reverse gear.  You certainly want to check the gearbox oil level and personally I would a thorough change of oil (all fluid changes should be thorough not just a quick cold drain and refill).

 

I would also do a thorough clean and inspection of the whole cooling/heating system, inside and out, and a thorough clean, drain and refill of the coolant.  Have you checked the radiator and cleaned it, checked the brakes are not dragging or the exhaust is partially blocked.  The gauge showing 90 does not correspond with you saying the car overheats.  The engine is also cooled by the engine oil so again a thorough change of engine oil (and oil filter) with perhaps if required some sort of cleaning.  For engine also air filter and spark plugs.  Also adjustment and lubrication of engine controls as required (includes accelerator pedal and cable).  GT85 is a good lubricant and also penetrating/releasing fluid.

 

Reading and referring to the Owner's Manual for the car (this is not the Workshop (repair) manual) will tell you a lot about the car and how to look after it and drive it.

 

Have you driven any other Felicias (1.6 or not) to know how well your car should or could perform or owned and driven any other cars from the last century?

 

I have not driven any other cars of the same model so i dont. 

But thanks for the tips, oil and filter is changed like it should be changed, 

Sparkplugs changed last year, Horns etc works, new wipers etc all that works, brakes and oil level is fine, 
have not checked suspension or steering tho. I think the suspension is fine but the steering is not i think. 
Battery also new. The car starts really well. 

 

Yea i change the oil in the gearbox. Was thinking about it but skoda told me that i didnt need to lol. 

 

I might need to do a cleanse of the cooling system, havent done that. 

I have cleaned it by washing through the system 2-3 times but not more than that. 
 

6 hours ago, nta16 said:

ETA: by-the-way, hi and welcome.

 

Good photos of the car and the parts where you are having issues might help with resolving them and spot anything amiss - please take these photos in landscape (not portrait) as generally this shows more by getting more in the photos.

 

Is the car standard or has it been modified or had changes or items added, a change or added electrical item(s) can mean someone has messed up the car's wiring or damaged something.

 

UIll try to get pictures next time im off, everything is basically standard, i have changed the radio. thats it. Only has one owner. 

4 hours ago, nta16 said:

@Felicia98noob with a car that is 25 years old, with the age, use and particularly previous owners there are so many variables that have affected the car to how it is now, with just forum posts usually there are few instant answers, you have been a range of good information but no one has seen your car and are not standing in front of it or driving or passenger seat so can not see, hear, smell, taste, feel or touch your car.  Each issue may (or may not) have more than one cause to it too. So normally information is given, questions asked then more information based on the answers given, it's a process of diagnostics from a distance.

 

Doing patch repairs is all well and good to keep the car useable but sooner rather than later full investigation and rectification is required for best outcomes and general reliable use of the car.  Doing full and proper servicing (and maintenance) and checks of the whole car, whilst also using the car, will help highlight, find and fix issues sooner which will reduce further issues and problems that exist now or may occur later.  Servicing is not just an engine oil and oil filter change, that does not even fully service the engine let alone the whole car.  Each part, component or system that is operating at least reasonably will help with other parts, components and systems operation.

 

Much of servicing and maintenance and some repairs boil down to clean and lubricate - that's basically what an engine oil (or other fluids) and oil filter change is and things like deleting error codes is cleaning.

 

An example - but I don't have enough information from your post so may well be wrong - the headlight switch, I take as the column stalk switch to go from full beam to dip beam, this may, initially at least, be sorted with a little spray of electrical contact cleaner (or swich cleaner lubricant) and then using the switch repeatedly as this may clean the contact area if this is problem - anything like this is best done with the battery disconnected particularly on a car you don't know the history of.

      

Okey thanks mate, Yea i am working on her, slowley, i dont have a lot of tools where i live now so i need to go back home to dig deeper.

2 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

Sparkplugs changed last yea

Don't believe any paperwork on this before your ownership, check the plugs are newish and of the correct type (and genuine) and have been gapped correctly.

 

2 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

brakes and oil level is fine

Good to have good levels, check the brake fluid isn't too discoloured (certainly not black) and doesn't have a too high moisture content.  Engine oil you can't know too much about unless you put in the engine but engine is nowhere near as important as brakes.

 

2 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

Yea i change the oil in the gearbox. Was thinking about it but skoda told me that i didnt need to lol. 

Good idea on a 10 year old car let alone 25+, same for power steering fluid and of course coolant.

 

2 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

I have cleaned it by washing through the system 2-3 times but not more than that. 

That is a lot more than most would do but cleaning and forward and back flushing is better, and for the engine block, and inspecting and cleaning the radiator and heater matrix exterior fins good.  I don't think the problems is with cleaning but just in case and for future use see this post I've put before. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/511704-glitters-inside-my-coolant-expansion-tank/page/3/#comment-5854729

 

3 hours ago, Felicia98noob said:

Yea it is an aftermarket stereo actually, really wanted BT so had to change. 
I will look into it thanks! 

The wiring of this potentially could cause all sorts of issues but that depends on how it was done, it might be fine and no issues.

 

if overheating continues do a head gasket check with BTB

On 31/07/2024 at 18:33, Felicia98noob said:

P1: Both tubes are warm while driving, one more than the other, so i can try to drive without a thermostat? To see if that helps? 

 

- Yea exactly, okey ill check the switch. I am thinking that the relay must work considering that it works one-way? 

 

If both tubes are warm while driving, it would mean that coolant goes through the radiator, but radiator doesn't cool it. Could you check whether the entire area is warm on idle?

 

Is it car with AC? There's no relay, if it's not. If it has AC, the fan should turn on immediately once you turn on cooling.

 

Just to check, what temps are we talking about?

Edited 2 August, 20241 yr by Papez

On 31/07/2024 at 00:56, Felicia98noob said:

And the fan is not starting.

 

If you connect the 2 cables that are attached to the radiator switch (it's like to take a command from the system) the fan must start spinning.

 

1 hour ago, Papez said:

 

If both tubes are warm while driving, it would mean that coolant goes through the radiator, but radiator doesn't cool it. Could you check whether the entire area is warm on idle?

 

Is it car with AC? There's no relay, if it's not. If it has AC, the fan should turn on immediately once you turn on cooling.

 

Just to check, what temps are we talking about?

Ill check the radiot, pretty sure i did it before and it got "medium" warm all over. 

 

The car has AC, The fan does not turn on. I have bought a new relay but i cant find where it is hahaha... 
I have also bought a new thermometer fpr the radiator, that one looks like **** so i think it needs to be changed, 
I will also try to burp the system again by overflowing. 

1 minute ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

 

If you connect the 2 cables that are attached to the radiator switch (it's like to take a command from the system) the fan must start spinning.

 

ill try

35 minutes ago, Felicia98noob said:

new relay but i cant find where it is hahaha...

in front of the battery left of the dryer

52 minutes ago, Felicia98noob said:

Ill check the radiot, pretty sure i did it before and it got "medium" warm all over. 

Radiator needs to be clear and clean inside and out.  There could restriction(s) to the coolant flow in the radiator, and/or the rest of system, I've even known of rags and paper being left in engines after service work or parts fitted, they can allow some flow though but not enough  A rag to cover IRRC cylinder(s) (on a 400cc 4-cylinder Suzuki motorbike engine) by a warranty insisted serviced at sellers caused the need for the engine to be replaced.

 

Have you done head gasket failure tests yet?

 

 

For burping, from a previous thread. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/511704-glitters-inside-my-coolant-expansion-tank/page/3/#comment-5855095

 

For my method of thorough cooling/heating system cleaning, you will need to adapt it a little for your car or pick and choose what bits you do and how much.- https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/511704-glitters-inside-my-coolant-expansion-tank/page/3/#comment-5854729

 

Edited 2 August, 20241 yr by nta16
typo

49 minutes ago, Felicia98noob said:

I have bought a new relay but i cant find where it is hahaha... 

 

Behind a triangle plastic cover with 2 screws.

 

58 minutes ago, Felicia98noob said:

Ill check the radiot, pretty sure i did it before and it got "medium" warm all over. 

Colder than the output hose?

 

59 minutes ago, Felicia98noob said:

The car has AC, The fan does not turn on. I have bought a new relay but i cant find where it is hahaha... 

 

Photo would help, there are more types of AC. Factory type has relays and fuses near activated charcoal canister, on the opposite side from the battery.

59 minutes ago, Papez said:

Factory type has relays and fuses near activated charcoal canister, on the opposite side from the battery.

 

In GR with Alex a/c there is only this:

 

 

No relays.

@Felicia98noob a couple of things I can mention now given your willingness for information.

 

A water pump was fitted but do you know for sure it was the correct water pump and installed correctly and is functioning fully and correctly now.  Also many modern made parts for old cars can be of poor, ****-poor or abysmal quality (example pump impellors break), not all parts but too many.

 

A 26+ year old car with only 70,000km (44,000 miles) is extremely low mileage so that could be from both very short journeys and periods of total lack of use, cars are not designed for this so the low mileage and use causes issues and problems that a car with more and regular use probably will not have.  The car will need regular use in a way that takes the very low mileage into consideration until the issues of that type of use, and age are reasonably sorted.

 

From 30+ years of experience of using various 25 to 50 year old cars as daily use I have found the best way is to carry out a staged 60,000/120,000 whole car service check plus thorough cleaning and replacement of fluids that many, including the car manufacturer say are "lifetime", like gearbox oil, power steering, fluid (dampers were appropriate).  Whilst carrying out service and maintenance work and checks you will find and resolve some issues just from this work and checks.  All this is done whilst still regularly using the car that will highlight priorities..  And never to assume that any part that has been fitted after the car left the factory is the correct part, is fitted correctly or that it is functioning as it should or fully even if it is working.  That experience cost me many tens of thousands of pounds but you have it for free now.

 

Edited 2 August, 20241 yr by nta16
typos

6 minutes ago, nta16 said:

A water pump was fitted but do you know for sure it was the correct water pump and installed correctly and is functioning fully and correctly now.  Also many modern made parts for old cars can be of poor, ****-poor or abysmal quality (example pump impellors break)

Also @Felicia98noob Speaking of, what is the water pump impellor made from? VAG plastic impellors typically have a life of 1 to 1.5 times the cambelt change interval.