As Carbon Dioxide Grows More Abundant, Trees Are Growing Bigger, Study Finds

 

https://e360.yale.edu/digest/carbon-dioxide-climate-change-bigger-trees

On 14/12/2024 at 12:41, Breezy_Pete said:

Will try to check torsion business tomorrow. 

 

Definitely worth doing, be aware of a few things................

 

The aim is to get the torsion value to zero by small adjustments to what everyone incorrectly refers to as a vernier pulley, VCDS will only report a narrow range of torsion value, say 0 to 2° in 0.1° increments, a guess for an example as I cannot recall what units are used and being VCDS they are unlikely to make any sense.

 

Outside of the reported range it will show zero degrees which is a false positive, you will think it is spot on but actually is outside of limits.

 

It is possible to adjust it to zero degrees but you need the patience of a saint and the hands of a surgeon, even the smallest of adjustments will throw it out of limits and display a false zero "spot on" reading, the way to confirm a true zero reading is to rev the engine, the zero becomes a + or - reading as the belt stretches with centrifugal force.

 

The +ve and -ve figures make no sense to me but hey its VCDS!!!! advanced cam timing shows as a negative torsion value.

 

Make timing marks on the pulley and flange relative positions before you start, even a small adjustment can take the value to a false zero and stop the engine from running, very easy to do if you do it intuitively and advance the cam timing to correct a -ve torsion value, you end up making it even more negative with VCDS showing a false zero "spot on" reading, after patting yourself on the back the engine will not start making the timing marks means you can go back to the starting point.

 

Were the vernier pulley to be an actual rather than misnamed one then the procedure would be very simple and easy.

Sorry to derail this slightly, but to get on topic I had the car serviced today and realised it was the first time the fuel filter had been changed since August 2019 (5+ years and 63,000 miles ago).

 

That done... the mechanic picked up a fault with injector 1 on the scan and then blow me, if it didn't then... blow!

 

Went to go to Sainsbury's and the engine was bucking like an angry mule and struggling much beyond 20mph.  Managed to detour to a very local garage who had a quick look and said yes, seems to be firing on three cylinders.

 

Fortunately I have a mechanic who quoted £60 to £100 labour to replace the injector, if I supply it.

 

Thinking though... whilst he is in there is it worth replacing all four?  Assuming they're all the same age, if one goes, will the rest follow?

 

You can get 4 x reconditioned injectors for £200 to £300 so the whole job of replacing four so should be no more than £500 all in.

 

It might also make sense of the emissions troubles I had if the engine wasn't optimal and also, in another thread I started in the summer, some intermittent hesitancy/vibration.

Sounds like a good plan to me if you have the money to do the lot in one go. 

Get a friend to follow you before and after the job to see if there's a noticeable drop in tailpipe smoke.  Although I guess if it's running on three just now, it's probably not going to be a fair comparison!

Edited 20 December, 20241 yr by Breezy_Pete

31 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Sounds like a good plan to me if you have the money to do the lot in one go. 

Get a friend to follow you before and after the job to see if there's a noticeable drop in tailpipe smoke.  Although I guess if it's running on three just now, it's probably not going to be a fair comparison!

Ta.   No smoke earlier, I happened to be in the kid's room when the service chap took it for a run and looked out the window, as one doesn't often see someone else driving one's car, and other than a puff on intial move away, it was clear (and that looked like just vapour).

 

He said the idle was rough.  Then did a second run and it was ok.  I guess that was the last gasp of the injector as it is now firmly... wobbly.

Edited 20 December, 20241 yr by JamieH86

@JamieH86I've woken up this morning with another thought about this.

The problem with the misfiring cylinder could be a problem with the injector loom, rather than the injector?

Might be good to check that before spending lots on refurbished injectors and fitting?

 

Or even something mechanical like a hydraulic lifter (tappet)?

Edited 21 December, 20241 yr by Breezy_Pete

1 hour ago, Breezy_Pete said:

@JamieH86I've woken up this morning with another thought about this.

The problem with the misfiring cylinder could be a problem with the injector loom, rather than the injector?

Might be good to check that before spending lots on refurbished injectors and fitting?

 

Or even something mechanical like a hydraulic lifter (tappet)?

Yeah I am not buying anything this side of Christmas until it's been double-checked!

Looking through the pretty comprehensive history, I can't see the injectors have ever been replaced so assume they're original, and have done 250k miles.  Can't really complain.

There's probably a way to test the injector loom for major problems from the connector on the end of the head. Resistance measurement between pairs of pin contacts. 

Haven't looked into this, but I bet there's info out there.

Edited 21 December, 20241 yr by Breezy_Pete

I had problems with injectors on another car and luckily we have a pretty good perkins engine diesel specialist locally. They only charged me £10 per injector to test pattern and release pressure etc. One was faulty so I bought a recon one. If your getting someone to do the injectors you could get them to replace glowplugs at same time. There not that expensive but can be a pain to get out. Worth a bit of penetrating oil from time to time before trying to remove. I have one on my old octavia thats failed but so far the car still starts. Can be a bit lumpy for a couple of secs and slight smoke when starting in really cold weather. Good call on getting injector loom checked as well before replacing injectors. 

Alasdair

2 hours ago, Alasdair1 said:

I had problems with injectors on another car and luckily we have a pretty good perkins engine diesel specialist locally. They only charged me £10 per injector to test pattern and release pressure etc. One was faulty so I bought a recon one. If your getting someone to do the injectors you could get them to replace glowplugs at same time. There not that expensive but can be a pain to get out. Worth a bit of penetrating oil from time to time before trying to remove. I have one on my old octavia thats failed but so far the car still starts. Can be a bit lumpy for a couple of secs and slight smoke when starting in really cold weather. Good call on getting injector loom checked as well before replacing injectors. 

Alasdair

Cheers.  Good point about the glow plugs, I suspect they're original too.

 

I had a nippy petrol Fiesta many years ago that fired on three cylinders once owing to a spark plug failure so... I am not 100% of the relevance of that but yes, glow plugs sounds sensible.

Hello all!   Christmas being Christmas there was a) a massive delay in getting work done and b) I was somewhat financially fanciful in getting everything done!

 

Still injector 1 has been replaced... I have not yet picked the car up but as per the mechanic: he says the bucking, rough idle has gone and the car can drive and accelerate as usual (it struggled much above 10mph before).

 

However he thinks there might be the odd misfire possibly still.  No engine lights, and he says it might just be the new injector "settling in" and possibly a fuel injector treatment would help.

Edited 8 January, 20251 yr by JamieH86

Hello again, update - new injector is in and I have to say, the idle is now very smooth.  Noticeably smooth.  No complaints there.  If the purpose of a car was to turn on the ignition then leave it running to admire how smoothly it can idle, job done.

 

However, driving it away from the garage (which involves a small incline to the junction), it was immediately obvious to me it was not as powerful as it should be.  Drove ok though, until I got to about 30 mph when the trembling/shaking started again.  This was only on acceleration; if I put the clutch down it was smooth as the Atlantic was when Titanic sank.

 

Stopped and started again, and it was ok in low speeds again but around 50 this time the trembling, shaking came back.  Once it was back, it also applied to low speeds - I couldn't drop down to 20 say to smooth it out.  Once it started, it stayed.

 

The engine light then came on again, so back to the garage.

 

 

Will update of course.

1 hour ago, JamieH86 said:

Hello again, update - new injector is in and I have to say, the idle is now very smooth.  Noticeably smooth.  No complaints there.  If the purpose of a car was to turn on the ignition then leave it running to admire how smoothly it can idle, job done.

 

However, driving it away from the garage (which involves a small incline to the junction), it was immediately obvious to me it was not as powerful as it should be.  Drove ok though, until I got to about 30 mph when the trembling/shaking started again.  This was only on acceleration; if I put the clutch down it was smooth as the Atlantic was when Titanic sank.

 

Stopped and started again, and it was ok in low speeds again but around 50 this time the trembling, shaking came back.  Once it was back, it also applied to low speeds - I couldn't drop down to 20 say to smooth it out.  Once it started, it stayed.

 

The engine light then came on again, so back to the garage.

 

 

Will update of course.

Let us know. I have a similar problem with my octavia 1.6 tdi Get a weird wobble/shake at around 40 and when accelerating. Seems to be better when I press the clutch and coast but  some days its worse than others. Have checked all bushes and tyres/suspension and drive shafts. Was thinking it might be DMF but its ok when I take off and at lower speeds. I have no engine light (yet!) 

Alasdair

19 minutes ago, Alasdair1 said:

Let us know. I have a similar problem with my octavia 1.6 tdi Get a weird wobble/shake at around 40 and when accelerating. Seems to be better when I press the clutch and coast but  some days its worse than others. Have checked all bushes and tyres/suspension and drive shafts. Was thinking it might be DMF but its ok when I take off and at lower speeds. I have no engine light (yet!) 

Alasdair

Yeah that did go through my mind but I'd have thought in my case the trembling would continue at 50mph, say, regardless of being in gear or neutral.

 

Will see what the engine light indicates when I hear from the mechanic.  Alas they all seem to rely on codes and scans, though this bloke is fairly old school, but whilst I would replace a boot switch or air filter I am simply not a mechanic at all and I think a DIY engine exploration after watching five minutes of YouTube is not something I want to do!

29 minutes ago, JamieH86 said:

Yeah that did go through my mind but I'd have thought in my case the trembling would continue at 50mph, say, regardless of being in gear or neutral.

 

Will see what the engine light indicates when I hear from the mechanic.  Alas they all seem to rely on codes and scans, though this bloke is fairly old school, but whilst I would replace a boot switch or air filter I am simply not a mechanic at all and I think a DIY engine exploration after watching five minutes of YouTube is not something I want to do!

There a lot of things on Utube that are useless or wrong/outright dangerous. I learnt old school by watching proper mechanics and haynes manual plus a bit of trial and error. Just did my first FWD clutch on my sons Fabia. Done plenty of RWD but it ook me ages but got there in the end. Mechanicaly I can do most things but I'm struggling these days as theres so many sensors and electronics involved. Bit out of my comfort/knowledge zone.

Not sure if the new injector would have to be coded with vcds? or if your mechanic already done it. If its not coded I assume it would be ok at idle but may be way out at higher revs. Hope the next scan pings something up. Not sure where you are but have a look locally for a vw/skoda specialist. We have a couple locally who know the cars inside out.

 

Alasdair

24 minutes ago, Alasdair1 said:

There a lot of things on Utube that are useless or wrong/outright dangerous. I learnt old school by watching proper mechanics and haynes manual plus a bit of trial and error. Just did my first FWD clutch on my sons Fabia. Done plenty of RWD but it ook me ages but got there in the end. Mechanicaly I can do most things but I'm struggling these days as theres so many sensors and electronics involved. Bit out of my comfort/knowledge zone.

Not sure if the new injector would have to be coded with vcds? or if your mechanic already done it. If its not coded I assume it would be ok at idle but may be way out at higher revs. Hope the next scan pings something up. Not sure where you are but have a look locally for a vw/skoda specialist. We have a couple locally who know the cars inside out.

 

Alasdair

I mean... on the one hand, a non-coded injector could deliver what I'm seeing.

 

On the other... it didn't even occur to me to ask if he'd done it, it's basic.

 

If the scan code is for the same injector tomorrow I might "casually" enquire.   "Maybe it needs to be coded again?"   Heavy emphasis on "again"!

Hi all, well good news the injector was coded.  However the new error code is still for number 1 injector (the wiring loom has been checked and was fine).

 

The mechanic thinks either:

1 - second hand injector was just no good.  It was working differently to the old one, hence slightly different symptoms, but just as badly in its own way.

2 - the new injector is fine and the car just needs driving with a fuel injector cleaner additive.

 

I know the additives can take a few miles to work but I am reluctant to drive the car round when it is not functioning properly in case this causes damage - would others agree?

 

To me the best option seems to be bite the bullet and buy a new injector (and sure there's a lesson there about doing a job properly once, but Christmas and all that etc etc!).

1 hour ago, JamieH86 said:

good news the injector was coded

I'm not sure that such coding exists on PD engines. In fact I'm fairly sure it doesn't. That makes me distrustful of your garage.

 

Possibility 3 (from youtube research alone, I'm a PD newbie) might be that they fitted this other injector, but failed to de-burr the head where it sits, and the new seal(s) were ripped on the way in. Apparently that's a major risk. 

 

2. sounds wildly unlikely to me.

20 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

I'm not sure that such coding exists on PD engines. In fact I'm fairly sure it doesn't. That makes me distrustful of your garage.

 

Possibility 3 (from youtube research alone, I'm a PD newbie) might be that they fitted this other injector, but failed to de-burr the head where it sits, and the new seal(s) were ripped on the way in. Apparently that's a major risk. 

 

2. sounds wildly unlikely to me.

Cheers, I agree 2 sounds somewhat optimistic.

 

It is slightly starting to get the beginning of irritating now, this issue.  I'll put  a brief history here to recap this whole issue (which has been across a few different threads, in different stages/symptoms):-

 

 

April 2024 - slight hesitancy on hill starts, had to push the gas.  Gust of black smoke on last such occasion then this never happened again (still hasn't reoccurred).

 

May 2024 - started vibrating and being underpowered randomly after entering a sliproad to the M4 and speeding up.  Pulled over, restarted engine, issue went away.

 

June 2024 - no issues.

 

July 2024 - started vibrating and being underpowered randomly again after leaving a roundabout and speeding up.  Pulled over, restarted engine, issue went away.  Did have fuel injectors cleaned.

 

August 2024 - no issues.

 

September 2024 - no issues.

 

October 2024 - no issues.

 

November 2024 - no issues.

 

December 2024 -  issues.  Failed MOT on emissions.  Had two courses of Forte diesel system cleaner, Italian tune-up and the EGR valve cleaned, but still failed.  Did then pass at a different garage on a higher test limit but result still higher than last few years (1.2-).     Had a few occasions where it would tremble or hesitate on a drive, often in fifth, then this would clear again.  Had it for one week post MOT then the fuel injector 1 seemed to go (according to scan).  Very rough idle, engine bucking, underpowered much beyond 10mph.   Laid up during Christmas.

 

January 2025 - had fuel injector replaced and according to the garage, coded (I've searched a lot to see if this is necessary and it *seems* like it should be, and another mechanic, who did the service and first found the injector issue, said it would need it as well).   This sorted the rough idle but the car was still slightly underpowered and beyond 30mph or so just trembling/shaking again.  Bit more power though, it could slowly get up to a higher speed but felt wrong to drive.  Wiring loom checked and ok.

 

Options now - keep at mechanic, get a new injector to try.  Question over accuracy/quality of job?

 - take it elsewhere, see what someone else says, but starting from scratch and potentially a lot more costly.

 - drive it around and hope it gets better.  Well, I'll cross that one off!

 

Feeling a bit stuck now, though also not totally despondent - perhaps I did just get unlucky with a crap injector second hand and a new/reconditioned one will sort it.

 

Any other insight based on the long history above, do let me know your thoughts!

 

26 minutes ago, JamieH86 said:

I've searched a lot to see if this is necessary and it *seems* like it should be, and another mechanic, who did the service and first found the injector issue, said it would need it as well

Find a reference to it being necessary (for a PD 1.9TDI) on here, or on ross-tech forums and I might believe it. Both places are usually reliable because someone will shoot down duff info pretty quickly.

 

2 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Find a reference to it being necessary (for a PD 1.9TDI) on here, or on ross-tech forums and I might believe it. Both places are usually reliable because someone will shoot down duff info pretty quickly.

 

To be fair I am happy to take your word - as you are not offering advice like "drive your malfunctioning car to health"!

 

I am not going to order an injector yet or have any more work done at this garage.   I've got it booked at a VW/Skoda specialist down the road in Newport now to fully investigate the whole wiring, injector and fuel system and take it out and see what is happening, for £80.  

1 minute ago, JamieH86 said:

I've got it booked at a VW/Skoda specialist down the road in Newport now to fully investigate the whole wiring, injector and fuel system and take it out and see what is happening, for £80.  

Good choice I imagine. 👍🤞

I'm not sure it's going to be relevant to yours, but I have found that after changing cam belt over Christmas, mine seems to have stopped smoking.  

 

It was showing a -1.5 torsion value before, and now is +0.5 approx.  I think the four year old belt had stretched a bit; the belt tensioner pointer certainly wasn't anywhere near the notch. 

I think you can see the tensioner pointer with just top belt cover off. VCDS can tell you the torsion value in MVB4.

Your VW specialist is probably going to check this sort of thing any way, if they feel it might be relevant.

1 hour ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Good choice I imagine. 👍🤞

I think it is yes, especially now - an update!

 

Despite telling me on Monday they thought it was the wiring loom and they were going to replace this, and a new loom was even ordered, I found today on picking the car up that they did bloody nothing with it.  It was still in plastic in the box as he "didn't think it was the wiring after all" and told me again to just take the car out and rag it round.

 

Well I am down overall only £80, as that is what he charged to change the injector, so I can call it a day at that garage with fair confidence.

 

Driving home the idle at stationary is still very smooth, and driving up to 20mph (lucky I live in Wales!) there was no juddering at all.  It was noticeable on inclines though that it lacks its usual power.  Getting to 30mph, the shaking starts.  Restarting the engine stops this until you get to 30mph again.

 

So it could be a wiring issue, as that turns out to be uninvestigated, or a dodgy second hand injector.  Either way I should know on Tuesday.

 

In the meantime I will not be going up and down the M4 to see if the injector fixes itself.