Hello all,

I intend to replace the front drive shafts on my Fabia (MK3, 2015). Could I ask if anyone is aware of the filler hole location for topping up the gearbox oil afterwards?

I want to pre empt any possibility of gearbox oil loss. That being said, would I be correct in assuming that replacing the inner and outter cv joint will not cause any gearbox oil leakage or loss?

As my understanding is the inner cv joint bolts to a drive flange that comes out of the gearbox / diff. And so, you'd only lose oil if you remove the flange/stub shaft itself from the gearbox.

For reference I've attached a picture of what is being replaced.

Also, any other tips when replacing the drive shaft is greatly welcomed.

Thank you.

Edited 17 August, 202517 Aug by CReese123

the oil does not come out when removing the bolt on driveshafts, but it does when removing the push fit type as in the picture...i am also looking for the filler hole on the 1.0Mpi model and to find out how much oil goes in there.

Found this: its a MQ100 gearbox. Takes 1.3 litres, fill point as per photo.

Looks the same as my sons MK1 . I did clutch and no oil came out. NS was fairly straight forward but OS on his is longer. Tricky to get to flange bolts from wheel arch. I ended up using quite a few extension bars to get to them. As I was reusing drive shafts I marked their position at gearbox end with tipex just in case. I reused the flange bolts but put a bit of loctite on them again just in case. I think the bolts are supposed to be replaced but I seem to have got away with it. The hub bolt on his is a use once and throw away.

Alasdair

Thanks

On 28/08/2025 at 14:13, Alasdair1 said:

Looks the same as my sons MK1 . I did clutch and no oil came out. NS was fairly straight forward but OS on his is longer. Tricky to get to flange bolts from wheel arch. I ended up using quite a few extension bars to get to them. As I was reusing drive shafts I marked their position at gearbox end with tipex just in case. I reused the flange bolts but put a bit of loctite on them again just in case. I think the bolts are supposed to be replaced but I seem to have got away with it. The hub bolt on his is a use once and throw away.

Alasdair

On 27/08/2025 at 21:28, hayeksbane said:

the oil does not come out when removing the bolt on driveshafts, but it does when removing the push fit type as in the picture...i am also looking for the filler hole on the 1.0Mpi model and to find out how much oil goes in there.

Thanks both for the responses. I had a nightmare replacing the driver side drive shaft afterwards as I was sent the wrong part. I also believe I found the incorrect torque spec as I snapped one bolt for the inner cv joint (ultimately ended up re using one old bolt). I've tightened the inner cv drive shaft bolts as best as I can in a crisis cross fashion, ultimately settling on maxing it out at 25nm plus a sturdy 90 degree turn afterward. I would've ideally liked higher nm and in hindsight would've used loctite for peace of mind, but the resistance I faced, coupled with the one bolt already snapped, had me thinking otherwise for any further nm, and loctite hadn't even occured to me. Fingers crossed this will hold without issue. 🤞As whilst the car is driving without issue now, it does play on my mind (likely paranoia more than anything). PS. No gearbox leakage as you guys stated. Thanks again!

Edited 29 August, 202529 Aug by CReese123

The flange bolts if I remember on my sons were M8 bolts, Stage1 - 10Nm. Stage2 - 20Nm. Stage 3 - Angle tighten 90 degrees. If the bolts are M10 think VRS they are M10 bolts , Stage1 - 10Nm. Stage2 - 50Nm. Stage3 - Angle tighten 45 degrees. Not sure on the MK3. His is a late MK1.

Reckon your ok with 25nm plus 90

Alasdair

41 minutes ago, Alasdair1 said:

The flange bolts if I remember on my sons were M8 bolts, Stage1 - 10Nm. Stage2 - 20Nm. Stage 3 - Angle tighten 90 degrees. If the bolts are M10 think VRS they are M10 bolts , Stage1 - 10Nm. Stage2 - 50Nm. Stage3 - Angle tighten 45 degrees. Not sure on the MK3. His is a late MK1.

Reckon your ok with 25nm plus 90

Alasdair

Thank you for the reassurance Alasdair. The flange bolts on my MK3 are M8 x 48.

I did have initial confusion as some of the MK3 Fabia's are equipped with M10 bolts.

I clarified with a Skoda dealer, who suggested that (for reasons unknown to me) the TDI engine has M8 whilst the TSI engine has M10.

Kind regards,

Sounds like you've done OK with it @CReese123, try not to worry.

On both mk1 Fabia and Roomster with these same M8x48 screws, the official erWin info suggests 20Nm + 180 degree turn, which needs a decent effort and feels a bit scary.

Unfortunately I don't have the erWin stuff for mk3 Fabia.

Making certain the tool tip is fully (and square on) engaged in the screw heads is very important to reduce chances of slipping and rounding off. Tapping end of bit with a hammer is useful to ensure such engagement.

A special tool of this style is very handy, particularly for the offside:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314719915154

Edited 30 August, 202530 Aug by Breezy_Pete

1 hour ago, Breezy_Pete said:

A special tool of this style is very handy, particularly for the offside:

Thanks Pete, Reckon I will get one as joining all the extension bars together isn't ideal. Tends to end up drooping.

Alasdair

8 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Sounds like you've done OK with it @CReese123, try not to worry.

On both mk1 Fabia and Roomster with these same M8x48 screws, the official erWin info suggests 20Nm + 180 degree turn, which needs a decent effort and feels a bit scary.

Unfortunately I don't have the erWin stuff for mk3 Fabia.

Making certain the tool tip is fully (and square on) engaged in the screw heads is very important to reduce chances of slipping and rounding off. Tapping end of bit with a hammer is useful to ensure such engagement.

A special tool of this style is very handy, particularly for the offside:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314719915154

Thanks Pete. I settled on the 25nm and 90 degree turn given, as you've pointed out, it did feel as though one or two bolts were slipping at the heads when I attempted any tighter of an angle which made me fearful of rounding. (Coincidentally I was aiming for 180 degree angle after torquing to 25nm).

I did a 180 mile round trip today and didn't feel as though I noted any issues in driveability.

Would it be worth rechecking the bolts at a later date for tightness? Or would you guys suggest to leaving it be? As I appreciate I could simply be overthinking.

PS. I appreciate the link. As I had to resort to using a number of extender bars on my torque wrench for the drivers side inner CV joint.

Kind regards,

Edited 30 August, 202530 Aug by CReese123

If you want to check them for tightness it wouldnt do any harm although how to check torque with a plus 90 not sure. I reckon a quick check with a manual ratchet just to make sure none are coming loose.

Alasdair

27 minutes ago, Alasdair1 said:

If you want to check them for tightness it wouldnt do any harm although how to check torque with a plus 90 not sure. I reckon a quick check with a manual ratchet just to make sure none are coming loose.

Alasdair

I wondered the same too - while I can’t check the 90-degree turn, at the very least, if I torque the manual ratchet back to 25 Nm, I can go round the bolts to make sure they’re at least matching that torque value. I’ll give it a go next weekend when the weather is hopefully a bit better. That said, I’d like to think I’d know by now if anything were amiss after such a long trip today. Fingers crossed! 🤞

Edited 30 August, 202530 Aug by CReese123