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Not seen it say safe lock it’s always said deadlock since I’ve had the car.

The sign-off message is probably 'Check Safelock' - which is serves as a reminder to the driver not to lock in any passengers who remain in the vehicle.

Is the same

Yes everything goes off on the cluster. It says check deadlock if that means anything to you ? That noise from the videos happens when the car is locked. I just came out to my car then and the noise was going off. I currently have fuse 35 out aswell. Cheers Tom

Hi Mick Thank you for that. I'll keep my eyes peeled. Cheers.

Just as I thought this issue was over 24 hours later engine has developed a loud tick, most noticeably over cylinder 3/4, it's being taken back to the mechanic first thing in the morning not too happy with this, I thought it sounded a bit off when I picked it up, my father in law heard it yesterday and was like there's an injector sealing washer gone.

Hi Chris Many thanks for getting back to me, unfortuatley the link to the file on the MIB website to obtain the file seems to be permanently unavailable, ill keep trying !

I haven't tried any motor besides the 6Y2959801 so I will look for a 6Y1959801A then, although there's like almost none available in my area. I have managed only to find a 6Y1959801 on the web but the shop is closed at this time, so I am not able to call them to make sure yet. If this one fails again, I think I will just disconnect the two rear motors, so that I can at least use the two front windows freely.

Hi I download from MIB Vault the 3.3gb file MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0369T. However this variant is for Amundsen (Navigation). I have the Bolero (Non-Navigation). Has anyone got a link for the Bolero update? Cheers Dale

Hi I download from MIB Vault the 3.3gb file MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0369T. However this variant is for Amundsen (Navigation). I have the Bolero (Non-Navigation). Has anyone got a link for the Bolero update? Cheers Dale

So is it now good? Thanks. AG Falco

Disappointing no one has replied to you yet. Kodaq owners must be shy I'm not a Kodaq owner but should be this coming week, although only the basic PHEV version offered here is Australia so no pano roof and I'll be suffering from 'techshock' when it does arrive due to my current cars being pretty old. Kudos to you for checking the user manual before asking, surprisingly few do. If the Pano roof opening and closing link to unlocking and locking is not in the user manual, then it is probably not an option. Might be worth exploring VCDS options but if you cannot operate the opening/closing from the screen (only the physical switch) then I would be pessimistic. Page 141 in the Kodiaq User Manual tells you how to turn off the speed warnings or increase the warning threshold. Unlikely to be able to shorten the minimum distance on the ACC (VCDS again?). Best bet would be to estimate the minimum distance it is leaving and check with the dealer if it is correctly set. I was initially stunned when I drove in the UK (on the M25) by how close people drive at speed to the car in front. Took me a while to adjust to prevent the same problem of people jumping into the gap I left. Of course, BMW drivers did it without indicating. I've no real experience of wireless chargers but they are only rated for 15 watts and even that rate may be compromised by whatever protection holder you may be using for the phone? Glad you are enjoying your car overall though.

Hi Pete. Thanks for that. I havnt looked yet but will certainly take your advice and look there before I do anything else Will keep you posted on here as to what I find.

I'm not too bothered about a big turbo at my age, I used to work for Porsche in the 90's, I've had a Bi turbo A6 Allroad and two S4's a 1000 Exup Yamaha and Honda Fireblade, got the speed thing out of my system now...... I thought. I've seen too many AdBlue system and DPF issues to put me off enough to consider a petrol this time around. Suffered an AdBlue tank heater and a low pressure pump code recently resulting in new tank unit on my T6.1 van, it's only done 40K. Moisture ingress to the ecu caused the heater to fail and pump not building pressure sporadic. I've seen nibbled injector pipe and harnesses, constant regens from blocked low pressure egrs, coolant leaks in the coolers the list goes on.....But that torque punch of a diesel and the tank mileage can't be ignorned. Its not the car which makes me stop off now on a long run, it's my inability to go too long without the loo which hinders the progress these days 😄 .... Hmmmmm not sure I can cross over. Got a week to decide, and thats what I am bad at....HELP ☺️

Did you actually run your fingers along the fold in the LHR door seal ?

I use the VWG diesel additive, never had an issue with the EGR valve touch wood. I have seen lots that have failed, trying to keep on top of the sludge is the key and turning the ejector nozzle next to the V157 valve must have helped mine, think I posted a how to way back when....

Wrong colour and wrong seats to be my perfect one 😮

Well, I checked both possibilities, but unfortunately, the results were negative. The trunk (spare wheel compartment) was dry, just as you would have hoped. I also checked the drainage holes in the passenger doors. They were reasonably clean. Not spotless, but all the drainage holes were completely clear. The left rear passenger door (behind the driver's door) was by far the dirtiest of them all. However, there was nothing extreme, which is a shame because I was hoping to find something more obvious. Too bad, but thanks all for your help! Cheers!!

Ok thank you.

This Fabia MK2 discussion may be of interest...

Thanks for replying to me cairus my vin number is <Removed> Only use the Briskoda messaging system to send your VIN. This is to help preven number plate cloning. @Cairus cam PM you if you're unable yet to PM him Thank you.

According to LLLparts 03C 907 660 M was replaced by 03C907660T. The Hella part number I think should be 6PR 013 680-011 according to autodoc etc If its the correct hella number it maybe a wiring,connection issue. Check for worn or broken wiring. Alasdair

Have you read the thread I linked?

Where exactly is the oil level on the dip stick (if fitted) when checked correctly?

I see that you have a TPMS warning up as well.