All Activity

Hi all, Been having this issue with my Octy estate (2011, 1.6 MPI) for the last year or so (ridiculous, I know). The car starts and drives perfectly fine (never any lights) for the first ~30 minutes or so, but eventually (usually on the motorway) I'll get a huge loss of power followed by an ESC light and a check engine light. The car is still driveable, just super slow - we're talking flooring it in 5th gear to maintain ~65mph on a flat road. Strangely, the check engine light will come on and off as you're driving, and the engine power will be restored once the check engine light is off (ESC always stays on). Sometimes the engine light will stay off, and the car will drive fine for an hour. Sometimes it refuses to turn off, and I'll have to drive very passively for a while. Pretty consistently, after ~3 hours of driving, the ESC light goes off and the check engine light stays on, but the car drives perfectly fine for the remainder of the drive. Since my commute to work is only 15–20 minutes, I can go week/months without this being an issue, although I just drove Edinburgh → London and back so I had to battle the car for the best part of a thousand miles. Garage has had a look, they changed the spark plugs and ignition coils, to no avail. I've also seen a few people fix this by putting fuel cleaner through the system, but this didn't do anything for me. I'll list a few miscellaneous trends that seem to occur with the issue, hopefully someone can connect the dots better than I can. If the car hasn't been driven recently, I can usually do an hours drive perfectly fine. However, starting the return drive, the issue will arise after almost exactly 15 minutes (regardless of motorway or urban driving). No lights are ever present when starting the car and I can usually drive around the city, or to work, without any issues arising. According to the cars MPG reading in the gauge cluster: flooring the car in 5th gear, 3k rpm gives ~15 MPG when no lights are present, however, during a loss of power event, it will read ~55 MPG and I will barely accelerate. Not sure if this could indicate an accelerator pedal issue, or perhaps something to do with the injection system or maybe the ECU isn't opening the IAC valve properly? The reading could be completely wrong though. The issue mostly arises when driving on the motorway in 5th gear. Sometimes, I can get the power back by downshifting to 4th (removing the light for some reason), or by sticking the car in neutral and coasting for 20 seconds before the light goes off. These solutions only work some of the time. Sometimes the car will 'kangaroo' due to the engine rapidly switching between giving normal power and low power when driving with my foot down with a check engine light on; although I'll normally come off the gas when this happens because I imagine it's awful for the car. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm completely broke atm, so it would be lovely if I could get in there and have a bash at fixing it myself (within reason haha). Thanks, Louis

First ever post new here and to Skoda, picking up, new to me a 2019 Sportline estate tomorrow, thinking about adding a sub in the boot, Focal sub 10 ( handmade 35L sub box twin ports 35Hz res Freq.) and a Pioneer gm-a5702 amp-a bit overkill but has useful features like auto sensing turn on and variable filters, just wondering where people pick up the speaker input to amp as no line out easily? This way I can run the head unit harder as its not having to push high current through ( the in built amplifier ) for the low frequencies, could push the Xover point to say 120Hz?

No mate, non DCC standard suspension... pretty much whole suspension has been replaced

Never used this myself but worth a shot as it’s free? https://www.halfords.com/car-repairs/car-checks/free-brake-check-PRODUCTBRAKECHECK.html

Sounds like they might need a bleed. Braking performance on a commute won't be down to pads or discs, unless you're running metal on metal!

Yes, although you'll want the TCU done in addition to the ECU. It's not about the extra power - it's about the power delivery and useability.

I've yet to see a stock TDI vRS. Go and see Darkside. If you're googling stuff - you're looking at the GTD. The EA288 tunes nicely.

Yes, that is true. My vRS rolls like the road is covered in epoxy (the brakes are nearly dead after 12,000 miles, but that's more down to me...)

No... because those bolts have all had the correct anti-corrosion treatment applied... The recall is due to the fact that some of these bolts in the steering system have been corroding prematurely.

Yet another update. I’ve now had confirmation from Skoda Digital Support, saying they have made software changes. They asked me send a route as guest and then change to primary user, when I did this the route arrived immediately I was primary user.

Now I understand why it's not centered

Hi everyone, The ambient lighting in my interior door handles has stopped working on the right-hand side, while the LEDs on the left-hand side are still working fine. I removed the front right LED and tested it, and the LED itself is working fine, so the fault seems to be somewhere in the wiring. Has anyone experienced a similar issue and could share some advice on where to start looking? I'd rather avoid chasing the fault blindly through the wiring loom if there's a common weak point or a known issue. Any suggestions or advice would be much appreciated! Cheers!

1.31.70 installed and working on my VW ID7 (part number 10C035816)

I would go with someone like Racingline mate as they will not push the car beyond what it’s happy with. They have a map for that engine as the wrote it on my Octavia 184 2013 car. Well a company called shark did and he is now the software director for Racingline. They should still have the files.

No signal chime during coding, but I do see the dash symbol and sometimes it's flashes. It seems this process involves at least two things - The ABS controller 03, and instruments 17. VCDS gives me the long coding helper and check boxes to code bits to enable TPMS. Perhaps Ross Tech got something wrong and I should look further into how the bytes are coded. I don't think Skoda want MY12 Yeti to have ABS TPMS! Give me some time, I'll screen grab all vcds long coding screens with TPMS tick boxes and hope somebody can make sense of them or suggest something has to be done that's missing. My white screen display did once add TPMS and a reset option to the settings menu, but this was after I code enabled every entry in vcds refering to TPMS. Then I got a bunch of Gateway errors. My older V.W has nothing in the Gateway list enabled for ABS TPMS. There were 2 options in my Yeti Gateway controller list - 4C and another at 6? Although each can be enabled, they error on scan with no communication because it seems they are additional hardware controllers (I suspect for internal tyre sensors?) I thought taking it for a short drive it would learn sufficient to flag the large tyre pressure change but it didn't change anything. I've found a relatively cheap TPMS switch kit with wiring on Ali, but I'm not optimistic. It appears to have a local indicator backlight led wiring. I would be better reassured if after pressing the switch there was an acknowledgement of some kind 'ding' or dash symbol flash. I've already read the post link instructions from langers2k and tried it several times. You will see mention of module 4C (Tire Pressure II) which the OP added to the Gateway list. I also get the new Tyre pressure section in MFD settings. But MY12 knows nothing about 4C and won't communicate when enabled and what is 'Tyre Pressure II', something different to Tyre Pressure or TP 1? Do you guys have module 4C showing in your Gateway list without error codes?

Might be worth removing oil sensor wire as breezy pete said to check its actually working. My sons mk1 illuminates red for a few secs after an oil change then off. I am like you cant remember if its there at ignition or not. Alasdair

Hi guys, My list with Convenience Consumers is empty! recently I made retrofit from MIB1 -> MIB2 unit (5Q0 035 864 C) but I have a problem with a "convenience Consumers". There is no consumer in the list but the bar in the bottom is moving (for example, when I turn on AC, the value in bar is increasing) but there is no consumer in the list. Everything is working, DTC memory is clear but this is still not working. On one forum I found these adaptations, which I checked but values are correct. What should be my problem? Anyone can help? Thank you. ENG122227-ENG117666-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_BCmE activated ENG122227-ENG117670-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_BCmE_after_disclaimer not activated ENG122227-ENG117667-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_BCmE_clamp_15_off not activated ENG122227-ENG117668-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_BCmE_over_threshold_high activated ENG122227-ENG117669-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_BCmE_standstill not activated ENG122229-ENG117758-Car_Function_List_BAP_Gen2-BCmE_0x23 activated ENG122229-ENG117759-Car_Function_List_BAP_Gen2-BCmE_0x23_msg_bus Infotainment data bus 1968c959-fee2-49de-8cb3-0974133efab1.jfif

Thank you Alasdair1, that looks like my situation with the lights, the ignition light is on so the engine hasn't started, but the oil light isn't there apart from the warning (which I don't have). I know it has both level checking and pressure checking, but wasn't sure how it responds to one or both.

Thank you 👍

I did this many years ago when my wife got her first MK3 I think, Fiesta, then I transferred it to her next Fiesta. Our older daughter bought a new SEAT Ibiza 1.4 SC in 2009 - and it had only one horn, sounded very "nasty", probably stopped me using the horn when I looked after that car for a couple or so years later on.

Hi, Long term lurker, first time poster! I've just had a dsg service and was looking to get a re-map. The car has done 147000 miles and was wondering if it's worth giving her a little more power. Anyone done it? Pros and cons please Many thanks

I use https://www.lllparts.co.uk/ They have original manufacturer diagrams and its possible to search original part numbers with VIN. Alasdair

They were definitely right, but I felt it was that weak, it let the car down!

Thanks very much, Alasdair. That is really helpful.

I've had several school days over the past week! Thanks for your input anyway.