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The scruffy vents under the front seats are normal. You can get some plastic trims which fit into the vents and look much more finished, though they will cause some (small?) resistance to the airflow. ( I certainly won't be bothering with those, as I like airflow to be as full and quiet as possible, and because in the 2 1/2 years I've owned my Kodiaq, I've never actually seen the scruffy vents - I never put the seat far enough forward!)

Week 30 starts 20th July I believe, so you're right on the boundary... but I thought the factory normally closed down production for a few weeks just before the changeover, so you could be just at the restart??

The purpose of lights on a car are both to see at night and to be seen! Why make it more difficult for yourself and everyone else?? I drove down the M1 a few months back in a hailstorm at dusk, and was passed by a BMW and Audi racing each other through the mist and realised they were completely invisible once they were a few yards away from me despite having their lights on !

All the articles of the new Sorento looks really good. And apparently hybrid/plug in models available as well only add to the appeal. 7 year warranty and a more useable third row could make this the best 7seat SUV and take the Kodiaq’s crown

Maybe why he said this?

Latest SW is always best but that year can still be done with the earlier unlimited cables John

I'm all for soft suspension, car manufacturers have been obsessed with handling for too long. Hard suspension, big wheels and low profile tyres do nothing for me. My commute isn't influenced by whether I can take a corner 10% faster, it's all about absorbing rough surfaces, potholes, excess standing water and doing it quietly and fuss free with minimal cabin intrusion. If getting this means my car rolls an extra 2 degrees on a 60mph B road, laps the Nurburgring a bit slower and results in me losing a game of Top Trumps to a photocopier salesman in his Audi A6 then bring it on.

Looks like oil temp anywhere in the white section ( 103°C) is fine, red to the left too cold, red section to the right too hot.

Thank you.

So, is it a straight swap or needs coding? Sorry but my English is not so good and I didn't understand yet.

Email from darkside today the fabia is done! Few changes to the car since last time. Having made the most powerful 1.6 cayc that was properly documented (having seen some of the spec lists and info from the ones in turkey it didn’t make sense they were making the claimed power so really uncharted territory. It was abit of a monster then one day it seemed to struggle on power. Got the car back to darkside and was down on compression which we thought was a valve or a piston ring but then noticed some marks on the bore. Darkside stripped the engine down and we discovered rods 3 and 4 were bent (tdi reliability yo). Looks as if it might have been bearing failure. Hunt started to find a replacement 1.6 block although in talking to darkside we decided to go a different route and swap in a 2 litre CR140. As the 2 litre is effectively a stroker kit on a 1.6 and we could swap the cams over and other parts so I bought the 23k 2 litre out of the 4WD caddy van they built and we upgraded the turbo to a GTB2260VK (was offered the engine less than what a 1.6 block would cost) Fine tuned over the weekend and it’s now 274bhp getting up to 282 on meth. Should be good for a couple of years then will get bigger injectors and a bigger turbo again 😂 They also made me a stool from the old engine 😂

Tyre dressing is badly needed.

You have a huge amount of choice. 16", 17", and 15" if you're front discs aren't bigger than 288mm diameter. If your front discs are 312mm diameter you need at least 16" rims/wheels. Also, it depends if you want to stick with standard tyre and rim sizes. If so, then 15" wheels are out of the question because it's not an authorised size. According to wheel-size.com 215/60R16 and 225/50R17 are standard tyre sizes on the Yeti. Steel rims can be cheap to buy new. I wouldn't fit old steel rims because if they are rusty around where the tyre bead sits, they will slowly leak air. If you don't have a slow leak, tyres will only lose about 3psi every 6 months. I always visually check my tyre's air pressure before every journey. Because you are based in New Zealand, you might have a bigger choice of allowable tyre and rim sizes. In some European countries, you have to stick to the Skoda approved list. You might also want to check what tyre sizes have good availability and affordability in New Zealand. The standard 215/60R16 and 225/50R17 sizes could be expensive. Also, if you want All-terrain tyres you may need to look at higher profile tyres such as 215/65R16 to get a good selection. Maybe start off by comparing the availability of 215/60R16 and 215/65R16 tyres. Here's a couple of Bridgestone all-terrain tyres with good Euro labels E C 72dB that also have the all-season 3PMSF symbol for good snow traction. Bridgestone A/T 001 205/70R15 96T https://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=110&cart_id=F7tY9N4yOMOolo4u.110.416335275&sowigan=GAN&Breite=205&Quer=70&Felge=15&Marke=Bridgestone&ranzahl=4&Herst=Bridgestone&m_s=3&Ang_pro_Seite=50&sort_by=brand&rsmFahrzeugart=ALL&Label=E-C-72-2&details=Ordern&typ=R-341387 Bridgestone A/T 001 215/65R16 98T https://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=110&cart_id=F7tY9N4yOMOolo4u.110.416335275&sowigan=GAN&Breite=215&Quer=65&Felge=16&kategorie=6&ranzahl=4&sort_by=brand&rsmFahrzeugart=ALL&Label=E-C-72-2&details=Ordern&typ=R-341391

Good bit of info on why brake fluid is changed; https://www.kwik-fit.com/brakes/information/why-brake-fluid-is-important Depending on how you drive the car would depend how severely you’d feel the effects I guess e.g. track driving vs long motorway runs (although you’d likely use different brake fluid for track).

The throttle body has nothing to do with the throttle pedal on the diesel. the throttle pedal. Has two sensors in it. One goes upscale and one down to cross reference each other.

The pressure in the low pressure side of an R134a AC system (system not running) is proportional to the ambient temperature and will be from 30psi at 0°c to 130psi at 40°c. Your instructions no doubt are for filling when the system is running and the low side pressure will be from 20-30psi at 0°c to 25-35psi at 40°c and is absolutely not the way to judge whether the system is sufficiently charged. VAg and all modern systems are filled by weight requiring the old refrigerant to be vacuumed out and the specific weight (525g for example) re-introduced. If you dont have vacuum & recycling facilities & are refilling or topping up from a 13kg cylinder like me or the throwaway can that you have you have to use a guage set and watch the changing values between the high and low side pressures to be able to stop somewhere in the region of the correct fill but even that is a shot in the dark. At normal temp of say 20°c you would hope to achieve 70psi in both the low and high sides with the pump not running and with the aircon switched on full to see the low side drop to 20-30 psi and the high side rise to 100-150 psi but with the variable output compressors with the N280 modulating valve you are never likely to get the pump running at 100% like you could on an older E/M clutch compressor that was either full on or off.

Which company did the re-map? Sometimes the quality of the after care service shows more about the company than the BHP figures!

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Well... i found those things on ebay... 282 grams for 7€ does not seem too overpriced? got that from this video, starts at about 1 minute

Well I got the whole lot off darkside developments for 42 plus delivery, so could try them? I didn't use the plastic shifter cable adapter thing, just unclipped and used the existing one.

Well I got it fitted, it was an absolute doddle to change over. Didn't feel that much shorter to be honest but it's more noticeable on a drive. Isn't drastically shorter but does make it feel more precise and slick, Well worth 45 quid and 30 mins messing about on your drive. Looks almost completely OEM bar the Audi badge - should be warranty safe. Just noticed the varying part numbers on this thread and the one on the part below. So beware of that

Hi guys, I have a question which bugs me. This weekend I was visiting my sister which is 250km away from me. I took my superb on a nice trip. The car went beautifully and I made it without stop on one take. The thing is, that after I came to the destination I have checked the digital oil temperature and it was saying 102Celsius. I was immediately surprised, as far as I know the oil temp should be MAX 90 degrees. The needle of oil temperature on dash was straight at 90degrees. So I am confused here a little bit, needle show 90 but the digital oil temp show 102-105 degrees. Today when I was going to work, the oil temp was at 90-92 max. Also I have noticed that often times the needle shows 90degrees but the digital oil temp is still only on 70degrees. Does anyone know why the oil temp went so high? All of my mates told me that it never should happen even when I am on driveway and running over 2k RPM (2200 to be specific) the motor is 2.0TDI. It makes me worry. Every help and advice is appreciated, Thank you guys

I'd say the other way around. Solid red color - is the current temp. 0 on the right, 103 being the 'normal middle' and oil sits at 90 slightly below that. Everything on the left from 103 degrees is heat, and the leftmost red stripes is overheating, basically.

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