Leaderboard

Pre-dawn Moon today

That’s strange, because the Skoda UK configurator has it starting at £ 31,085 (£34,085 before grant) for 60 Nav Loft spec Just for a laugh, the 80 EcoSuite plus virtually all options on configurator is £50,510. Configuration code C77NVQ9S for those that want to check . The price is so high don’t get electric car grant (although I think configurator assumes you do, so quotes wrong final price by £3000) If you had said 20 years ago that Skoda would be selling £50k+ cars, would have been laughed at

I had the same on one of mine, I thought it was a cracked unit but it’s just muck. Really easy job to remove - unclip the side piece (piece circled in red on the picture) of the centre grill by pulling firmly (2 hand grip to spread load, reducing chance of breaking anything.) Then it’s a torx screw that secures the fog light unit, release the fog light which just pulls out. Then clean up, refit in reverse.

It is a very profitable upsell for them which your 2 year old car does not need, not now, not in another 2 or 4 years neither. Nor does it need a service of the Air Conditioning .

Have a look at some of the rupes polishes as well. They don’t have any flick to speak of or mess to deal with compared to the glass in your above pic. I also used to use a das6 pro and magiuars da. I changed a few years ago to a rupes lhr15 machine, which just gave fantastic results even with the same technique. If you really get into it, it’s a very worthwhile upgrade. It also has very little to no real vibration either, which makes such a difference to overall fatigue. cars looking great. Well done.

They really need to give 2 figures as a minimum allowing that they get to say what ever on ambient temps. Give the Unladen test results with a 75kg driver or whatever, and then at full revenue weight / gross max for the vehicle. That will be near to what buyers might expect to get as a range even when not carrying that weight.

My money is on them claiming a software update that magically makes everything run better. It does feel a little like dieselgate all over again and clearly some range standards need to be designed to standardise the figures properly. Mix in some cold running, some warm running and a random mix of hard driving and city style stop start driving. They really need to do something about the complete fiction coming from the hybrid cars too.

You really need to check oil any time you collect a car be that new, used, hire or loan and from a service or repair. That is dip it when cold and before engine started. See there is oil. Then as all VW engines other than a 1.2 44 kw engine is checked. At normal operating temperature parked on the flat and after a few minutes of stopping the car. So as in the owners manual. That is other than any Skoda manual that says check when 'warm'.

Not sure what you mean sorry. You can get the 550Nm 'street' performance disc on its own, and the cover + pressure plate on its own, or buy them together as a kit. AFAIK Sachs also manufactured the factory clutch setup, so these components bolt in without any other changes required. Replacing the flywheel is optional, but I had a new DMF (also Sachs) fitted as the original was worn. Also had the slave cylinder replaced.

This. Every time the topic comes up. There is no more important factor than 1. The road surfaces you drive on. 2. How fast you drive. The Superb III definitely suffers from excessive tyre noise. I suspect some of this can be tracked down to the bushings they are using on the strut towers. I plan to do the Audi > Skoda swap when I get around to it. Thicker rubber bushings better NVH. You can make an impact with mods, tyres etc. But there is no escaping the mechanically transmitted tyre > chassis path.

Just a thought. The embargo on the new M3/4 ends tonight so we should be bombarded with reviews. I'll keep this thread unlocked for them BUT I ASK VRSKEITH TO START HIS OWN THREAD ON THE MATTER WITH ENDLESS LINK POSTING. I BELIEVE THAT IN A FORUM, IT IS THE MEMBERS THAT COUNT, NOT THE MOUSE CLICKS, COPY AND PASTE. SO I AM ASKING ONE MORE TIME KEITH. PLEASE DO NOT POST IN MY THREAD. THIS IS MEANT AS A THREAD FOR DISCUSSION NOT WHATEVER IT IS THAT YOU DO. PLEASE DO NOT DO IT HERE. I DON'T KNOW HOW ELSE TO ASK YOU TO STOP. forum noun 1. a meeting or medium where ideas and views on a particular issue can be exchanged.

Colin might not be able to address all the above tonight due to other matters but I certainly will. Normally this wouldn't be 'on view' but I'll make an exception in light of what's been said. Firstly I'd like to hope that @moley reconsiders his viewpoint but respect his decision whatever is decided. Being a Freedom member shows a level of commitment to Briskoda which is certainly appreciated. It does not absolve people from adhering to the Site Guidelines however as all members are treated with the same even handed approach. If there is any problem with moderation or how the site is run then it should not be brought up in open forum - but by PM to Colin - as per the Guidelines! I feel that all the moderators are 'sympathetic' to all the members and not just certain ones as has been implied. I think that I know who you're referring to about 'unseen' behind the scenes help and to be blunt, just because you're unaware, doesn't mean it hasn't happened or needs divulging! It's in plain view and directly helps Briskoda so let that be put to bed. In 2. I presume you're referring to @cheezemonkhai as 'he has now gained the right to edit other people's posts'? Even though he's showing as a Freedom member, his Shield also designates him as being a Moderator with the implicit right to edit/move/hide etc as the need arises. There is no such thing as a 'super biased moderator' - just because they have a differing overview on things doesn't mean they are biased! Remember all moderation decisions are logged and subject to scrutiny by peers. 3. Your technical knowledge is not in question - neither is that from @e-Roottoot. Nobody can be correct all the time but all help is gratefully received by the person asking. It's down to them to sort the wheat from the chaff. Hopefully there's more wheat than chaff going forward. My concern is when people do not act in an adult way regarding these differences. @Warrior193 raises a valid point, as does @Wino but as I said earlier, Colin will reply in due course to cover any outstanding points.

Hey all In an attempt to make this section a bit more lively again, I thought I'd start off a cleaning and detailing thread. Feel free to add pics of your shiny motors, describe your process, outline future work you intend to do, recommend products, etc. I'll kick off! I have owned this beast for 2 weeks now and gave it a deep clean to assess the paintwork. Process (& products); Jet wash to loosen dirt up Snow foam (AD purple velvet) 2 bucket method wash (Sonax gloss - first time using this and I was super impressed @ £6 a litre) Alloy clean (Gtechniq W6 Iron & General Fallout Remover then a general wash with the remaining Sonax shampoo) Clay bar (Bilthamber medium with Dodo Juice born slippy lube). I've never seen as much embedded tar/crap in a car's paintwork before! 2 bucket method wash - again! (Sonax gloss) Dry (my trusty 10 year old woolly mammoth towel. Still going strong) Polish glass (AutoGlym) Protective glass coat (RainX) Tyre dressing (Some cheap CarPlan rubbish. I'll look at getting a decent one soon). I decided not to wax it as there's a bunch of paint defects I want to polish out first. I'm about to order by first DA machine (das6 pro) to give it a go. Next time out; Touch in stone chips Polish out numerous swirls and fine scratches Sort out the dull D-pillar plastics Tidy up the interior, which TBF is in good shape already. Right, that'll do for the first post. My neighbours now think I'm quite peculiar and, having written it out, I can't disagree! I look forward to seeing your cleaned/detailed motors! Danny

Having posted the link to the Piston Heads Shed of the Week last week, I caught up with PH thread again and noticed a couple of links to Australian articles on the Roomster TDI PD, one mainly tuning. the other general ownership. https://www.autospeed.com/cms/a_112589/article https://www.autospeed.com/cms/a_112171/article Not seen these articles before, thought they might be of interest to all. We are talking Australian articles here and date back to 2011/12. Also it looks as if the "Autospeed" website has not been updated since, but good articles nevertheless. Most interesting thing I learned was that PD cam belt timing is quite important to how engine will perform. As I am due a cam belt in the next couple of months and I am likely to sort a modest remap soon after this was of interest. Enjoy One Man's Car.webloc The Roomster Nuts.webloc

For those interested the embargo on press reviews and tests, lifts at 23:00hrs tonight ie 5 mins approx

Edit: @GrahamVRS beat me to it 😂 Just the clarify, the fog lamps are easily removed. Small bumper trim piece on the inboard of each fog lamp pulls off. Then there is two torx screws on the inboard side of each fog lamp. Unscrew them and then pull the unit outwards from the end closest to the centre of the car. I think it's maybe mentioned in the manual 👍

yea. 2l diesel yes it is. I know there history but not really any other local dealer for Jaguar so fingers crossed

Or do a deal for £49,999.99

well after a lot of messing around and no answer when the kodaiq will arrive I cancelled it. Went and bought this instead, ended up having to put in less of a deposit and the monthly payments are less than the kodaiq I ordered. Pick up on Saturday can't wait. (it not this car as the one we have ordered has a black interior but everything else inc colour is the same. Thanks for all the help guys

Thanks for the help. Got it sorted. My multimeter was fine, measured a neighbour's car who also had an EFB battery and that worked so have requested a return of the second dead battery (0v3 FFS!) From Euro car parts and just got a new one delivered from Halfords. It measured 12v6. Just fitted it and everything works as it should! Bloody euro car parts misleading me, telling me the battery was good and that I couldn't measure it with my multimeter! Can't believe they sent me two dead batteries. Cheers

The car is now 10 years old and has just been serviced with no issues raised; 76k miles under it's wheels and I still enjoy driving it. I have been looking (again!) at replacing it but struggle to justify spending a wad of cash on something that might go just a tiny bit quicker. I was tempted by a Yaris GR but that would mean spending some £30k which I cannot justify - but I bet it would be fun and go quite a lot quicker!

Wino that’s amazing, spotted it and yes not going to be easiest thing to get too but defiantly manageable!! The diagram was very helpful! Thanks so much mate really appreciate it! I don’t have much mechanical knowledge, but like to have a go where I can, and yes I know my limitations....... “thanks” once again 👌🏻

Agreed. Skoda are not covering themselves in glory here. First they release a product that is clearly not finished and then they just leave a significant group of customers with no clear plan on how to fix it. I've had enough and rejected the car because of this and faulty matrix lights. I'm in limbo at the moment. The garage have agreed "in principle" to the rejection of the car, I'm just twiddling my thumbs whilst they agree with "the brand" the terms of the buy back. Frankly I just want it done so that I can move on to something that works

Items 17, 22 here. Looks like access to the bolt head is right underneath alternator. May be awkward without alternator removal, but probably worth trying. The other style of tensioner (item 2) appears to be for non-A/C cars. connecting and mounting parts for alternator; pol... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2005 year] (7zap.com)

I was looking at the estate, but I can configure that today so at least it's still available. The killer is that an S3 sportback can be had for under 40k list vs a superb for over 40k list. The kit on the car probably will be different and the size is obviously much smaller, but the extra tax on cars listing over 40k, will obviously hurt and need to be factored in. Obviously it will come down to lease prices once discounts are factored in.

I previously got caught with their 12 year (IIRC) anti corrosion warranty - I got rust, it got repaired under the warranty, the rust reappeared but was no longer covered as the repair was only covered for a year...

Replace the belt while you're at it, when you have the new tensioner and belt in hand it should be obvious what needs removing.

Only those in the Magic Circle will know how they manage to be able to alter the laws of physics.

FYI - After raising the issue yesterday(went straight to the CEO of the dealership group), the dealership sent me a video on how to set in speed/units in the Columbus this morning. I have re-explained the HW issue and non-compliance to the UK road regulation. I provided a video to confirm it as well. Anyway, my dealership is coming to collect the car today as it is a software issue, which they will fix this quickly. I will keep you posted of whether they can fix it with a SW upgrade or not...

Have you asked Skoda for a build week yet? I did it on Twitter. Just sent them a message with my order number.

The facelift LEDs don’t move left and right like the pre-facelift xenons.

Its 2014 I'm going to try and inspect the sills I think the the water may be filling in the sills then finding it's way into the car I'll let you know if I find anything

This sounds plausible, but I've read a complete opposite argument that also makes sense too! It's along the lines of 'new cars are increasingly expensive, yet cars actually last a lot longer and it's more economical to treat a car well than it is to keep replacing'. I guess a better measure for such things would be the traffic for a dedicated detailing forum, rather than this subsection for a specific car manufacturer. The volume of products being released doesn't seem to have relented at all, and the following of some social media-savvy detailers is huge, so it would seem as though the broader interest is still there in abundance.

I used stickers international. I'll attach the file you need here and you can choose the brushed silver or whatever sticker background you want to show through from their site. laurin-klement-1.svg

The assumptions of different sizes that "will ride more comfortably." is nonsense really. Very much a generalisation. As people might find when driving different cars on the different tyre / wheel sizes. They may do but it depends on the actual car, the suspension it has, the load in the car, passengers and things, and the tyre pressures and what someone considers as 'More Comfortable'. There are reasons that not all buy the cheaper cars with narrower tyres that feel like they are on a 'Magic Flying Carpet'.

Inspired by the thread I did the 'no silikat' mid at the weekend. Wrote the date of removal on the reservoir so I've half a chance id remembering in 5 yrs time😂

You'll enjoy the MX-5... I've had my MK1 since 1998 and doubt I'll ever sell it.

I have no doubt the Halfords box will run for 24/7, as I also did this myself many years ago. It does not however compare in any way with the performance offered by a fridge. 12v cool boxes typically pull down by 18c against ambient temperature. In an air conditioned car this is fine, but find yourself on a campsite in France in the summer and you have daytime temperatures of 35c + so not so good. For the 5 summers I owned my Yeti I carried a table top fridge and table top freezer in the boot between home and campsite. On one journey the freezer was without mains power from 8pm one night till 3pm the following day and was still -10c. The matching fridge was holding 2c without problem in daytime temperatures hitting 40c+ when on site. A fairly recent introduction has been the "hybrid" 12v cooler with 230v fridge/freezer. I have bought one of these for this summer. In the car it acts as a normal cool box whilst on site I can run it at any temperature between +10c and -15c, irrespective of ambient temperature. I can therefore use it as a fridge or as a freezer. Tristar Hybridcool 45 HC Compressor Cooler 12v/230v from Camperite Leisure Colin

Well, the time has come to say farewell. Been on the site since 2007, in which time I have owned 6 Octavia combi's, 3 Fabia's and a Superb. Thanks to Colin for running a very good site, There have been some very good people on the site over those years with a wealth of knowledge and expertise, sadly some of those have moved on. Unfortunately there is now a small minority of very closed minds that want to censor anything that they don't agree with and believe that they are always correct. There is no point arguing with a closed mind, so I'm not going to bother anymore. Good luck to the true Briskodian's out there and stay safe. Moley.

Yes - this is where I'm going with this; sounds like a self-adjuster is not playing nicely and slipping. Agree that is also the aux belt (it wouldn't be the timing belt).

Well, yesterday was intense. My first time using a machine polisher to try and correct the paintwork. There were numerous scratches, scuffs and a ton of really bad swirling. I couldn't get them all out, but I did my best! I debadged to make the polishing easier. First up, the clean. Process (& products); Jet wash to loosen dirt up Snow foam (AD purple velvet) Rinse 2 bucket method wash (Sonax gloss) Alloy clean (Gtechniq W6 Iron & General Fallout Remover) 2 bucket method wash - again! (Sonax gloss) Rinse Dry (woolly mammoth towel) The value of the grit guard and 2 bucket method! Some before and after shot with the das 6 pro DA and Meguiars 205. I plan to do a finishing polish and wax soon, but it got to 10pm and I was absolutely knackered! When it stops raining, I'll drop some pics of the full car.

Replaced 5Q0 121 407 G (5 years 95k Km) to 5Q0 121 407 M for minimize risk of silicate bag damage inside picture of 5Q0 121 407 T, no bag version, similar as M

Wrestling with arch liners and front bumper most of the day. Such an effort just to replace the darn grille!

N80 evap purge solenoid valve is on the left. Wondering if it might be coming from that.

The turbo is coming from 1.6tdi Peugeot partner. Its no problem too spool it up with this turbo. Its Just for fun. On top it makes 0.7bar and it makes 0.2bar on 2.500rpm and over it Just goes up. Everything is original on engine🙈 Im driving without the lambda now, have too buy a New because the old was broken. Its No problem too take it too red limit in 1gear. 2gear too 5000 then it goes in epc mode. I will update when i gate new lambda in, think it will work much better. received_454384988944330.mp4

Your Skoda is effectively an Audi or Volkswagen. The main components are shared across all VAG vehicles. The only way to justify charging you many thousands of pounds less than the equivalent model with a posher badge is to leave a few piddly little bits off. Prop the boot floor up with a stick or something, and when Covid allows book yourself a nice holiday somewhere overlooking the Mediterranean with the money you have saved and as you sit there in the evening with a carafe of wine watching the sun go down you can contemplate whether the trade off was worth it....... ......... .

Looks like Spring had sprung

Find someone with VCDS locally or a Carista unit and get them to change your car to Australian. You will then get the option to change from MPH to KPH in the Maxidot menu, but it will also alter the Maxidot display slightly when you have MPH displayed.

Conversely, I’m a little disappointed that there’ll be no 4x4 badge on the boot of the Mk4. I liked that little point of difference on the Mk3, but it was subtle.

Just bought my first Kodiaq. 2.0 TSI Laurin & Klement 190bhp DSG 4WD with Drivers Assistance Pack, Virtual Cockpit, Pan Roof. Only had it a couple of days and have hardly been out in it with lockdown. Still trying to figure out all the gadgets.