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Somewhat different sunset tonight...

Lovely sunset last night .......

19" summer wheels back in place. I'm finally enjoying my detailing work this winter (deep cleaning, waxing and tyres dressing) Clean wheels but dirty car... 2 new Michelin PS4 on the rear axle. Finally got rid of the original Pirelli P7. I'm eager to go for a drive, to feel the différence

I might be involved in covert night time surveillance (might not be - can't say), and the last thing I want when killing the engine is to be bathed in light. Snipers, see. Can't be too careful. .

Holy this is so funny lol!!!! Anyway the red air filter box does not exist since it's an image i found on the internet which I coloured with photoshop to highlight the cover!!!!!!!!

Was at work yesterday and realised I had missed 12345.6km's, then at the end of a break I finally got around to changing to miles etc and setting up dash how I wanted it and by pure chance when stopped later on, I glanced down and BOOM!

The MOT manual only imposes specific constraints using the front indicator as a side repeater. There is nothing specific about the visibility of a separate side repeater.

These units are the same used in easily 1000 different models of cars supply is only a specific facia around it along with the wiring adaptors to meet model specified in listing / ordered. The canbus module doesn't always come set specifically for one model and must be selected by person upon installation (I think it details that in the listing), the code to enter the menu for this is '8888' on every one I have seen of this form factor sharing the same base software (and most of the older shaped models). It's essentially a heavily modified tablet or more so a modified large rectangular mobile phone due to it's designation (which is much handier than a tablet for certain apps compatibility). For me specifically I select the correct VAG platform and then it will work 95% correctly until I go into its settings to specifically make it aware that I am in a RHD vehicle and set my region specific preferences for units of measure and a boot logo etc.

Because they are all the same, no hardware or FW differences in them, the same companies will sell the same item under 50 different names to saturate the market. JunSun = 30% higher price for same item and is a brand name they use a lot on the likes of EU Ebay sites. The specific one I went for was reviewed well inc for specifically the Mk3 Octy so sod paying extra when it's purely a punt to see what its like lol.

The correct coding type for AGM batteries is "fleece" and not "binary AGM", as that is a different type of battery altogether. Pretty much the manufacturer coding does not matter. But as long as the serial number is changed by 1 digit and the battery has the correct AH rating plus it coding as fleece you will be fine.

If you make sure the bottom of the Torx hole is clear of rust with a small flat screwdriver, you might get a bit longer out of the existing screws by covering the heads in grease. If you do get new screws, cover the heads in grease (service spray grease is great) as soon as you've put them in. Then just give them a light spray every service and they'll last the rest of the life of the car.

Here is how i changed my switch on Skoda Superb 3 2016.

Took my time in finding the one I liked the look of to replace my MIB1 with it's micro screen and ordered one that I'd seen seller/manufacturer recommended around the internet a bit for Mk3 Octy specifically and has been far better than I expected. I don't get the use out of the car to justify spending out on OEM and I like the pretty open ended possibilities that this offers and I get my bigger screen look. Octacore 4GB/64GB model on link below: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000642821453.html A bit of a rushed install as I was at home on standby when I went out to start and phone rang.... All matched up well, connected 2 supplied cables to power the inline antenna amplifier and brought all over towards centre behind screen where all would now plug into back of new unit, just enough and no more to work without stretching on RHD models. Canbus module with it works perfectly and allows full integration into all bits to play with and keep functionality for settings etc, I've retained the factory USB port as is with it an added another to glovebox as I could run 2 lines from it. Factory mic isn't utilised so has 3.5mm mic plug at back and will run one from that up to beside where factory one lives when I get a chance, inbuilt one by reviews says its just too quiet, so not even going to go there. Short clip to show some of features I have gained for £162 from those industrious folk way East. All pics and vid still have screen protector film on so makes it look a little less crisp, but does a good job for my needs and can play with Carista and VAGDPF now on the big screen finally

Hello there, I'm a fresh... fresh? kinda fresh Skoda owner and I love my Octavia and have started doing all sorts of upgrades and retrofits to it. One thing that bothers me is the stopping power. I never feel like it's strong enough. After a talk and inspection with my mechanic we concluded that the discs and pads are ok so the next step would be to upgrade the Discs and Pads to something a bit more ... sporty?... My Mechanic recommended Zimmermann Discs and Textar Pads. He's into performance cars and has done plenty of.... stuff so I trust him and his opinion. Point being I really don't want to go to Stage 1 before upgrading the breaks. One problem... what size discs do I get? Do I just go for the specifications the car came out of the factory (like my mechanic suggested) or try something bigger? I use 17' rims btw. I have searched high and low, googled furiously but either my google skills are lacking (high possibility) or the info is a bit hazy. TLDR Octavia 3 4x4 2.0TDI 150hp 2016. What size Break discs should I get front and rear? Thank You!

So, I have just retrofitted power windows to my mk1 Octavia and before doing that I've came across a lot of communities, forums, etc including this one. What I've found was not a lot of help and a loud bunch of naysayers. I'm thinking about writting a full guide is there anyone in the same shoe as I am? I haven't finished the full install but I can communicate with the ccm, the windows roll up and down and the remote opens the doors and blinks the blinkers. All I need to tidy up the wiring and put the car back together. For all the keyboard warrior naysayers that seems to be on every forum, it can be done to a 100%. BIG PLUS: my car not only has power windows now, also keyless entry. I can fix that damn heat selector and it was a lot easier to install the tempomat wiring the really tidy way. And for anyone who thinks it's any easy job it's not but it can be made easy avoiding the critical errors I've made. What I've started out is an Octavia with central locking but no remote my previos CCM: 1c0 962 258 j >>> current CCM 1j0 959 767 ah. Why AH not B? First that was what was in my crashed petrol Octavia secondly the B I belive is can based. Other than that the difference between the two systems are only the way the "door" connection to the CCM. With the non power window one has all the wires going to the CCM while the 767 AH only running the shows with a bus and two three additional wires: white/brown, black/blue, gray/cyan (writing from memory can be different.) The door wiris from the previos CCM can be pulled out of the wiring loom and the new one laced into the loom. After removing the wiring for the bus-less connectors the wires remaingin matched in number AND color for the 767 AH CCM. I couldn't extract the pins so I've soldered everthing. What was the hardest was to find the blinker wires. If you are planning to this get these things: -looms and cables, if you cut out the whole wiring always cut or undo the crimp where come together. -CCM with matching door electronics -The system has to match the system youre installing it to (k line and can is not compatible) -3x hexagonal M6 rivnut for the different door trim (just for the driver side) -bandage tape, soldering iron, heatshrink, zipties, electrical tape, clip-on cable ties -measuring tool for reinstalling the tapes. You will need to get the dash out, cut open the wiring loom, get almost all of the trim out of the interior. workflow remove trimms -> remove the dash -> cut open the wiring loom -> get out all of the door wiring from the loom -> install the new wiring into the wiring loom -> insert the rivnuts for the new door trimm -> change the window mechanism and door loom -> TEST AND ROLL UP ALL YOUR WINDOWS ->reinstall everything else DO NOT START WITH THE WINDOW MECHANISM BECAUSE YOU WONT BE ABLE TO PULL UP THE WINDOW UNIT THE REST OF THE ELECTRONIC AND WIRING IS IN THE CAR!!! You can thank me later for that, I had to cover up the car for every night and it was raining too. It's a really involved, messy and long project but it can be done. The hardest part is sourcing the wires if you don't have a part car you can take stuff from right next to it also don't bother looking up any wiring scheme, what I've managed to get that I'm willing to share is a useless ****show it's more like a block diagram but without any usefull info. I've been doing it on and off about 3 weeks mostly becuase I had to find out everything, no wiring schemes anywhere, no real tutorial, school, work, frustration, lack of motivation. If anyone want to do this, let me know.

What about this? Adds android functionality to the existing head unit without losing the original features - you can swap between factory unit and android unit by pressing the menu button for 2 seconds. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFKcHsgY5jk

The swivel where the gear cable connects to the gear arm can be cleaned and lubed, It doesn't have to be removed to get it 90% right. This is the other end of that arm, and what was dirty on my car. The silicone spray (with straw attached) helped along with liberal cleaning. PTFE grease to finish it off. If that doesn't improve things enough, and you are out of warranty, you can try the likes of Slick 50 gearbox treatment. I didn't need to use it here, but it worked *really* well on my old Passat 1.8T sticky graunchy second. Lasted for years after I added it (I already tried changing the gearbox oil, with little improvement, and tried molyslip - useless. Might be useful to someone.

I paid £480 for a tow bar. For bikes I always use Thule roof and bike racks. Just bought an Upride which clamps round the bike's front wheel!

It depends on the ECU and if it keeps a record of the mileage covered. AFAIK, the engine ECU in a MK3 Octavia/Superb and other similar MQB vehicles doesn't keep track as mentioned here: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/26571/

The problem of soft rear Octavia springs started on 06.03.2006 when a switch was made to softer rear springs. Here's an example. Until 05.03.2006, Octavia MK2s with build codes 1JA+0YD were fitted with 1K0511115BF rear springs. From 06.03.2006 Octavia MK2s with build codes 1JA+0YD were fitted with 1K0511115BD rear springs. Now 1K0511115BD rear springs are two weight ranges softer than 1K0511115BF, which is about 10% softer...or to put it another way, until 2006 the rear springs were about 10% stiffer. (1) 1K0511115BF coil spring 1 paint mark 3 paint marks D >> - 05.03.2006 white yellow Model data: PR-1JA+0YD (1) 1K0511115BD coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark D - 06.03.2006>> white yellow Model data: PR-1JA+0YD http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/OCT/year/2006/drive_standart/419/hg_ug/511/subcategory/511001/part_id/2561497/lang/e The problem has continued with Octavia MK3s and MK4s. So to correct the problem, simply change the rear springs to 1 or 2 weight ranges stiffer. However, if you've got your eye on comfort, I suggest you don't go more than 1 weight range stiffer. Cars that came with factory fitted towbars will already have rear springs 1 weight range stiffer. There's no need to fit lowering springs, as simply fitting 10% stiffer springs and keeping the ride height the same will enable better cornering...at the expense of a harder ride. Most people prefer the more comfortable ride, hence the softer springs Skoda started fitting in 2006.

i used some Holts RL2R LOYHMTN0301A Professional Silicone Spray on the anti roll bushes and the top mount on the suspension mine squeaked on the left side just dropped the sus /leg and sprayed it from the top of the car very easy only took me 20/30/ minutes had no squeak since

Mad ehh?! It's move north a bit and is currently wetting my washing...

Some made up name for whatever its worth, A-Sure or something, its only written on the silly little instruction (not) manual not on the unit.

Hi wino had a good look on google and ebay the difference seems to be just the plug found it on ebay says its for awy/bmd 1.2 engines but plug might need adjustment. I have seen them on other sites too with no plug just bullet connectors , also on the autodoc web site it says its a universal sensor and is compatible with 1.2 awy and bmd engines so might just grab it anyway at that price

That's interesting UTR, let me know how this project goes - it's the chrome trim that I find the most offensive ha ha! That and the lack of the nicer seats in the sport line spec

Thanks to @DeanVRS20VT for the heads up, we now have an armrest.. Bit of fiddling to get it just in the right place but it's done. Just need to find the spare lid I started to retrim in leather....

Or as soon as you go to the Skoda.co.uk homepage, you get some irritating heads appearing in the bottom right, who ask if you have any questions for them. Chris

As long as the serial number is different then that will be fine 👍

I wasn’t aware our MK1 Octavia’s came without electric windows? Even our basic spec in the UK and Europe all came with electric windows as standard. The only model I can think of is the pre-facelift ‘98/‘99. But haven’t never seen one, or an old brochure I’m unsure... However, well done for the job and tackling it. Never heard of anyone doing this on the MK1 or the MK4 Golfs. Pictures would be ideal in this post and make it a full guide. But, I can’t see many of us having a model without electric windows.

It doesn't mean anything, they're analogue sensors which only flag an error if they stop working or go outside a wide range if values.

Thanks for all the replies - have settled on an L&K model, just waiting for the right one to come along now. Cheers!

Picked the sensor up this morning, swmbo had it fitted in 10 mins.. EML out, car starts and runs lovely again.

Skoda UK haven't even shown the courtesy of making any contact with me whatsoever. I don't expect them to at this stage, and from the 'updates' provided since HJ passed our details on I don't expect anything from them now even if they did. Nobody seems to have made any real progress beyond what is happening for those of us leaving their cars with the dealer for investigation/further software, and HJ doesn't appear particularly interested, probably because there are thousands of VW Group car owners suffering similar issues to each other.

Showing the car some love now that you're getting rid of it?

https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1989/1796/schedule/7/made But also, it is an MOT fail to not have a side repeater on a vehicle made after 1986. If the side repeater isn't visible from the entire side of the car, including the rear, then it should be failed as not present. But no idea if a tester would go in to that much detail when checking.

I've never had an issue with updating Columbus MIB2.5 on my MY18 Superb I use one of the many genuine Kingston 32gb micro sd plus adapter cards I have laying about and using Windows 10. There used to be a problem years ago of many fake cards around, particularly from EBay, Amazon etc. doctored to report 32gb or 64gb when it was a 2gb or reject card and I indeed did somehow end up with one. You won't normally see any evidence of this on your computer, only when you try to access data and it can't be found, This free tool will check if your card is really what it claims to be https://h2testw.en.lo4d.com/windows Some older card readers/writers will only support up to 32gb (sdhc), so be aware of that possibility. (I use a £3 USB adaptor/card reader in my computer) When I come to update the car, I don't turn on the ignition. But I do connect my battery charger, just in case, but it shouldn't be necessary. I put the sd card in its full size adaptor into sd1 slot, making sure its fully clicked home. Turn on columbus, press menu, settings (on second page) and scroll/find the update option (can't remember exactly where). It takes perhaps 30-60 seconds before the update is found. I just press update and away it goes, approx 30-45mins to finish. A couple of times it has come back and said "update not found", so I just turn off Columbus using the hard reset by pressing the power button for 10 seconds. Then turn it back on and repeat the previous paragraph and so far always works. I download from the Skoda portal using my vin, but I have also checked the vw download links posted and can confirm the map data is exactly the same, although one is packed in Zip format while the other is in 7z format, which may require you to install 7-zip software (free)

build week 22 confirmed! Should be here around July. spent yesterday doing some photos of the current car

they have adjusted the prices to make sure they all qualify for the grant. It's the starting price that has to be below £35k not the price once you add all the optional extras you'd like

Yes I am sure. It's in the Lighting regulations Nick

As above, I’m not sure how they do it with no coding, it clearly injects some kind of code but in any case the clicking noise is likely to be the extra loom hitting against the blend door in the footwell. A careful reroute will sort that for you. I would suggest trying to go to 5F Adaptations, Car Function List BAP Gen2 and checking if VPSx0B has been activated as that might be it. It’s basically looking for the camera but not finding it which is where the error message is coming from.

Lets have another Holy Thread Revival, Batman!! Edd is back on Youtube. and will (hopefully) making a new series of vids. Edd China Workshop Diaries. Here is the first one https://www.youtube.com/c/eddchina/videos

The 2.0 TSI issue was up to about 2013 with cam chain tensioners failing and chains jumping a tooth. There are no major issues on these engines from 2014-2015 onwards. Go for the 2.0, I am on my 3rd such engine.

Small Update on my end. Decided to keep to the 288 on the front and 272 on the back after receiving reassurance that the new setup has a lot stopping power than my current OEM setup, money back guarantee and all that jazz. I'm happy about this considering that the brake caliper carriers needed for the 312 on the front would have added around 350e to the total cost. Zimmermann Sport Drilled Discs and Textar Pads. I'd like to ad that here Textar pads are a bit.. ~5% cheaper than ATE (which I normally use) but according to my mechanic they make a better paring with Zimmermann Sport Discs. I shall return with pics and my thoughts on the new setup. All and all is gonna run me around 500e which I think is a bargain and hopefully it gets me the results I'm looking for and the confidence to remap. Thank You everyone for the stellar attitude and great information

I changed from 288 to 312 discs on my previous Yeti. Very easy swap, and does make a difference to braking performance. All you need is to change the calliper carriers and the 312 discs. 17” wheels are fine with 312 discs, my 16” winter wheels fitted with no problem.

Hello! Thank You for the great info, I appreciate it! Never found performance disks and pads worth? Hmm... strange. I always feel a big difference when I make a jump from stock but ei.. who knows. That brake setup you suggested seems a bit... "not ideal" for 17' thou. Btw it's a TDI so weight should not be an issue considering 340Nm worth of Glorious Torque (before s1) Think I'll stick to 321 front and 272 rear as I don't think Size is an issue in this case. More Research I Shall Do!

Here is a first look of model that came to Croatia. I will do a proper test soon.

If you decide on pulling the fuse, it's fuse ZC65 10A. Behind the glovebox. Bottom right corner of the fuse holder. If I come across a solution to turn on the 'memory' for driving modes like for the lane assist, I'll let you know!

I drive a 47 kWh car right now (Tesla model 3), 60 is more than enough unless you are regularly doing really long distance trips (like 400 miles a day), buying an 80 would mean paying more than I need to for my normal day to day driving.

The answer is that it depends, frankly it's best just to measure your ARB to be certain.