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Some pics of my 3 month old superb. Loving the car. Wife tried to convince me to buy it in business grey but fancied a change after a few grey and black cars. Didn't fancy paying the premium on velvet red so race blue it was.

Start up and drive off immediately. Switch the MFD to the Oil Temperature setting. Drive the car progressively harder and once it hits an oil temperature of 90 deg C, drive it like you stole it.

Good job you know Octavias well and can spot when something's not quite right. I do wonder about some salespeople. Years ago, they seemed to actually know quite a lot about the cars they sold. Now car salespeople seem to be just interchangeable with any other salespeople, equally happy selling white goods, double-glazing or cars. So long as they shift "product" at a profit, they've done their job.

Had a surprise call from the dealer on Tuesday. They placed the order third week of April, and were also surprised that it had been delivered, given the current delays. Coming from a 2016 Leon Fr estate, it is so much quieter inside, and even with the 19" wheels, certain unavoidable potholes and harsh speed bumps that were quite jarring in the Leon, don't seem to trouble the Karoq much at all. Will have to see how well my kid proofing efforts work, but looking forwards to the journeys ahead.

I've now been over the seat twice with the following. Light spray of 1:10 dilution Bilt Hamber Surfex Good scrub with a strong mix of Autosmart Bio Brisk Then extracted with hot water in the Bissell Spot Clean Pro. Currently on my patented Drying Max 2000 Drying table on the patio.. It "should" be ok to go back in the car now, just waiting for a new seat belt buckle/stalk to come from TPS as the old one was scratched up badly. Seat runners are all painted up now and waiting to be fitted back on the seat. Plan is to get the driver seat back in, then the fully valeted rear seats and then finally we can get back onto the engine bay. I have the old engine loom removed and the new Genuine one ready to go back in, I'll do that, then change the cam sensor for a new one and go for another fire up.

My Candy White SE L Karoq basking in the early morning sunshine.

For a 190bhp 4x4: A touch over 50mpg if you want to count unusual journeys that are hard to repeat. 48mpg on a decent length motorway journey now that the weather has warmed up is fairly easy to repeat. Something beginning with a 2 is sadly also easy to repeat for spirited driving on lanes.

It doesn’t but the manual says it will use oil in the running in period. And I always like to have some oil for topping up anyway. Why can’t they just put a label on the engine??

They are all EA211 engines, the TSI has a turbo charger and intercooler that increases torque and power output but basically the same design. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volkswagen_EA211_engine

Glad you (almost) managed to get your clutch problem and refund of your engineer's report costs sorted. But isn't it a disgrace that you had to suffer so much hassle and indifference from your Skoda dealer. They deserve to go out of business. Unfortunately we are seeing more and more of this attitude across many segments of business. You should name and shame them on the dealer reviews section of this forum once your dealings with them are over, then take your servicing business elsewhere. And well done to the member who provided you with the technical information issued by Skoda in support of your case. Just appalling that your dealer didn't come forward with the information in the first place.

No that's quite alright. To me the premium was worth paying to know I was getting the right part and it was actually going to get to me quite quickly. I have the same problem with the low number of vehicles in the scrap yards here. They crush them and ship them away quite quickly so there's nothing to go scavenging from. And as for folk that have done what your's had done, you'd think that there would be plenty of lids out there to be had! Glad you got something sorted. I'd be interested to know what the actual difference between the AJ and AR tops is. I expect its to do with the trumpet inside but not sure.

I think part of the reason is also the well publicised ongoing issues with the Mk IV, People would rather buy a good condition Mk III.

I'd never been before, but would happily go again! Walking past the YHA Ravenstor house was a big eerie though! Also amazed at what you find atop a mountain

Thank you, I got one sorted! It's off a 1.4l mk2 fabia, somehow they have the same part 👌🏼 Hi yes I had seen your post recently, but no the rear tab hadn't broken I have bought my vrs with a cone filter installed and the top half of the airbox missing! So all I really needed was the top portion. Unfortunately living in Northern Ireland they don't have many fabia's in scrap yards, so after 'TMB' told me they had found a good amount on ebay I checked it out. I also have a fabia 1.4l tdi mk2 2008 sitting at the house that I will be selling and I just happened to check the part number on that airbox... Exactly the same, probably not what you wanted to hear seeing as tps probably cost a mint for a new one🙈 Thanks for the quick replies guys, still getting used to this site so sorry if I've quoted you twice 😔

Probably somewhere in the range 75-100. Watch engine coolant temperature in VCDS during warm up of your car and compare to gauge indication. You'll see it gets to 90 indicated well before the sensor says 90. I've never played with seeing how hot it can get before it reads over 90; slightly dodgy thing to experiment with, cos you'll probably have to disable fans to get it hot enough to find out. It's not a biggie though, anywhere in that range is fine to drive any way you feel like.

Fixed! For future reference... the parcel shelf had come off its tracks and so I am guessing the sensor was picking it up as it got close to shutting!

Or do what I do. Drive even slower

Why should a diesel be different to a petrol re warm-up? Oil still has to get around the engine. I just start the car up, put the seat belt on, get comfortable then go. I don’t think letting either engine idle does anything except waste fuel. But see my sig below...

Re the battery losing charge - have you by any chance plugged in a new camera or other accessory, the cigy hole is live all the time so would cause a drain, are the internal lights going out when you lock the car. As suggested above if you do not use the car very often and have mains access connecting a trickle charger would be a good idea when you leave the car.

The best thing is to start the car, let it idle for a few seconds and then drive immediately off but driving gently until it's warmed up. Leaving a car idling for long periods actually increases wear and takes a long long time to warm up especially on a diesel. In fact a diesel is likely never able to get up to temperature by just idling.

Travelled from Sheffield to Louth this Morning to view what was described as a totally immaculate/showroom condition Octavia VRS which disappointingly was not as described. https://www.louthvolksworld.co.uk/vehicle/Used-SKODA-OctaviaTDI-vRS-For-Salein-louth-licolnshire-U546/ Just to give a heads up to any fellow members if they are considering viewing the Car but the Drivers Sill has been Repainted very poorly and the OSR Inner Wheel Arch, Suspension Arm and Handbrake Cable is all covered in Blue Overspray. The Sill is smooth in places where it should be textured, Very poor workmanship. Salesman claimed they had not seen it even though its been in their workshop for the Timing Belt changing so will have been on the Ramps etc. Anyway its not a £16000 Car and I had a wasted journey Today.

My issue fixed itself, just went for a drive and all good. I did some reading, couple thing i found, that might cause this: system went into mute, because of parking, incoming call, or android auto something, or even voice assistant, and system could not unmute itself for some reason. so in case this happens again, disconnect phone, or leave it at home, check voice assistant again, check parking mute settings, there is slider, I strongly believe removing fuses is not the way to go, that i would leave as last option. but hey thanks for the tip @parsey83 And i might have another one now, since all is fine @sneal

Or don't; they're easy to break and if they do you also have a lump of hardened tool steel in the bolt head...

2 days in a row, same route and the exact same avg speed and only a few seconds in the time

The reasoning of wanting some oil to top up if necessary is the same as being glad the Scala comes with a proper spare wheel: better to have what you don’t need, than to need what you don’t have. and in my experience there is a vast difference between what dealers should do and what they actually do

Not 'warm', that is what Skoda put in owners manuals while VW, SEAT, Audi said 'Hot' or 'at normal operating temperature'. Hot / Operating temp is the correct if Skoda was to not get lost in Translation. Buy the VW 508 00 / 509 00 wherever it is the cheapest. 0w 20 FS IV. That might be from a Skoda Group Dealer on Ebay like Parks of Hamilton. Or anyone else. Briskoda Sponsor http://opieoils.co.uk Odd how some Maindealers do not know what the correct oil is yet they know how to charge lots for it compared to 5w 30 FS III

Wow, I missed that one, £220 extra for proper door mirrors.

What error code(s) does the diagnostic reader give?

I think that you are leading yourself down a blind alley. Ask yourself how on earth the alleged failure of an infotainment screen could cause the problems that your vehicle has? Then look carefully at their statement and translate it from money grabbing bull***t to real world talk. "infotainment screen blown and maybe a control unit as well but that can't be ascertained until the screen is replaced at a cost of £900 plus fitting." Translates to "we want to take you for £900 before we consider fixing the real problem at further expense." Once they realise you accept being taken for £900 for nothing then the door is wide open for further exploitation. Ask for a print out of the diagnostic test or better still have a scan done elsewhere with something at least as in depth as VCDS, it will likely be corrupted coding of the body control module. Inconcievable that an infotainment screen that is working normally could be responsable for the faults you have following a voltage transient.

Just make sure the granny charger from the Ioniq has a type 2 connector that plugs into the car, then it should be fine.

Welcome: Sounds like you need a nice MIB2 system (which your car should have anyway) - but it maybe as simple as a FeC (Feature Code) to get MirrorLink and Android Auto to play nicely (about 150 ukp from your dealer). If you want the facelifted buttonless system, then you need to chat with @pab567 who can probably sort you out a new Bolaro system from a facelifted car. For steering wheel controls, please chat with @SashaGrace who can assist with tell you what bits to get and how to code it up.

I think I'm going to cancel the order. It looks horrible with that poverty spec mirror. That's a penny pinching exercise too far. Thanks for pointing it out @motr1912.

It could be the brake disc shield has fractured or come loose. If you lie on your back and reach behind the disc you should be able to feel whether it is in place or not.

Anything from 60°c. There are several clues that its telling you what you want to hear (see) rather than the truth, the non linear rate of climb during warm up & that once indicating 90°c it sits rock steady without any variation to be expected resulting from engine load, outside temp, airflow etc. Having owned a Triumph Stag I learned the art of driving with one eye on the temperature guage and to recognise all the tiny fluctuations and what caused them and to recognise anything out of the ordinary, something that continued to serve me well until driving VAG vehicles of this century where it serves for nothing.

Mine has gone up £1000 in value since I first checked. Though I won't sell it just yet as I have haggled with my finance provider and now only pay £160 a month for it. £185 if you include tax and insurance, so I would be daft to get rid when I still enjoy the car.

You don't know the power of the Dark Side 🤣

Okay - folks - I'll raise this point again. PLEASE PLEASE do not buy non-genuine VCDS because the software is a) Old as heck and won't support cars any newer than 2015, b) you are potentially supporting crime and c) you could risk damaging your car due to the hacking of that old version of the VCDS. I apprechiate that VCDS is not a cheap system - but it isn't expensive either. Folk on this forum are passionate about cars and I know that we all tend to grind our collective teeth when folk present with a non-genuine VCDS install and ask us to fix stuff for them. You are not going to get a good response. Alternatives to consider: ODBEleven (PRO) will allow you to do the same changes but from the comfort of your smartphone (and is almost quite okay these days). Carista ODB2 is also worth considering (although I haven't used it). Both are cheaper alternatives.

I ordered 3-4 weeks before you and haven't even got a build date yet (which is allocated something like 8 weeks before build - I'm told...). Worth asking your dealer to confirm that your car will be a MY21 build - not sure when MY21 ends and MY22 starts - or you'll be choosing a different colour.

not all 19s r harsh, or hard, or bouncy!! depends on ur setup. the 19s on mine r not harsh at all, even with the lowered springs and DCC shocks. they're quite comfortable. if i want to firm things up - i put the shocks in Sports mode. doesn't make it trim/bone jarring though. if i want super comfy/floaty feel - i put the shocks into Comfort mode. its a lot more comfortable than the my previous mk2 Octavia RS which had 18s and standard RS shocks.

Lovely moon tonight Speedway for me this evening

Financially, yes. But it tells you absolutely nothing about what effect different speeds and driving styles have, in your car. By monitoring the results for individual journeys, I’ve learned a lot about what my car “likes”. For example, where the Superb 1.6 diesel was not much more thirsty at 70 than at 65, the Kodiaq 1.4 petrol noticeably is.

Seems to me that the part number you want is 6Q0 129 607 AJ, see entries for item 7 relating to ASZ and BLT engine codes here intake connection; air filter with connecting par... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2006 year] (7zap.com)

Low battery levels causes all sorts of funny "problems". Take a resting voltage reading.

Hi Rory, I have had an IV for 12 months so can give you the detail. The IV reports the ICE range and the Electric range separately. When you fill up it always seems to revert to 400miles range on the ICE, regardless of past performance. (I think my previous Superb diesel did report the range based on the average consumption of the last tank). If you drive more economically then you see the range increasing - or simply not going down and if you push-on the opposite happens. I drive frugally and see about 500 miles from a tank. It has hard to say as you will have recharged the battery a few times in between so the total distance between fill-ups may well be much longer. I have only been on short trips recently and I always recharge so mostly using electric. The car was reporting 200 mpg as I was just not using fuel. I think this is what causes the fuel only range to reset to the arbitary 400 miles and then update rather than trying to use a possibly v. unrealistic average from the last tank. The fuel tank is smaller on the iV but still a useful 55litres. I previously had a Mitsu Outlander PHEV and that had a 30-something litre tank which gave serious range anxiety. Today I learnt that the service intervals on the IV are fixed 10,000 miles/1 year. No longlife option which is a bit scary as a previous 30K Miles pa driver. Working from home I have only done 6k miles in the first year and now it is screaming service. I am going to check on this in case the dealer had it wrong. Will correct this if I find out differently.

Squabs removed tonight...many thanks for your input and advice...I have that extra space I needed.Carl

I have this issue too but only intermittently. For example, yesterday I drove down the M3 from Basingstoke to Southampton and back during the day in fairly light traffic. All the way there ACC worked perfectly, frequently passing slower vehicles in the lane to my left, but on the way back it kept slowing down because of them. I had been wondering for some time if the radar was misaligned or had two wide a view ahead, but then I noticed for the first time that in these situations the lane assist display actually showed a white car in the neighbouring lane - as someone else has explained above. So, my car knew that the car it was slowing down for was in the lane to my left, so had no excuse for slowing down. When I got home I looked around various settings and found that the car was incorrectly set for “Driving on the right”. If the car thinks I should be driving on the right, then it would correctly prevent me overtaking a car to my left. But the mystery then would be why it often does allow this. I’ve changed this setting to “Driving on the left” but haven’t had an opportunity to test it so far. i'm wondering if this setting also explains why I have been finding I get flashed when using the matrix headlights on rural A roads? It will take me a while to know whether this change has helped with these two problems but I will report my findings when I’m confident it’s made a difference - or not.

I read everyone's comments, and ignored them........

Oh, and a Maxton designs front splitter.