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Some pics of my 3 month old superb. Loving the car. Wife tried to convince me to buy it in business grey but fancied a change after a few grey and black cars. Didn't fancy paying the premium on velvet red so race blue it was.

Start up and drive off immediately. Switch the MFD to the Oil Temperature setting. Drive the car progressively harder and once it hits an oil temperature of 90 deg C, drive it like you stole it.

Good job you know Octavias well and can spot when something's not quite right. I do wonder about some salespeople. Years ago, they seemed to actually know quite a lot about the cars they sold. Now car salespeople seem to be just interchangeable with any other salespeople, equally happy selling white goods, double-glazing or cars. So long as they shift "product" at a profit, they've done their job.

Had a surprise call from the dealer on Tuesday. They placed the order third week of April, and were also surprised that it had been delivered, given the current delays. Coming from a 2016 Leon Fr estate, it is so much quieter inside, and even with the 19" wheels, certain unavoidable potholes and harsh speed bumps that were quite jarring in the Leon, don't seem to trouble the Karoq much at all. Will have to see how well my kid proofing efforts work, but looking forwards to the journeys ahead.

I've now been over the seat twice with the following. Light spray of 1:10 dilution Bilt Hamber Surfex Good scrub with a strong mix of Autosmart Bio Brisk Then extracted with hot water in the Bissell Spot Clean Pro. Currently on my patented Drying Max 2000 Drying table on the patio.. It "should" be ok to go back in the car now, just waiting for a new seat belt buckle/stalk to come from TPS as the old one was scratched up badly. Seat runners are all painted up now and waiting to be fitted back on the seat. Plan is to get the driver seat back in, then the fully valeted rear seats and then finally we can get back onto the engine bay. I have the old engine loom removed and the new Genuine one ready to go back in, I'll do that, then change the cam sensor for a new one and go for another fire up.

My Candy White SE L Karoq basking in the early morning sunshine.

For a 190bhp 4x4: A touch over 50mpg if you want to count unusual journeys that are hard to repeat. 48mpg on a decent length motorway journey now that the weather has warmed up is fairly easy to repeat. Something beginning with a 2 is sadly also easy to repeat for spirited driving on lanes.

It doesn’t but the manual says it will use oil in the running in period. And I always like to have some oil for topping up anyway. Why can’t they just put a label on the engine??

They are all EA211 engines, the TSI has a turbo charger and intercooler that increases torque and power output but basically the same design. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volkswagen_EA211_engine

Glad you (almost) managed to get your clutch problem and refund of your engineer's report costs sorted. But isn't it a disgrace that you had to suffer so much hassle and indifference from your Skoda dealer. They deserve to go out of business. Unfortunately we are seeing more and more of this attitude across many segments of business. You should name and shame them on the dealer reviews section of this forum once your dealings with them are over, then take your servicing business elsewhere. And well done to the member who provided you with the technical information issued by Skoda in support of your case. Just appalling that your dealer didn't come forward with the information in the first place.

No that's quite alright. To me the premium was worth paying to know I was getting the right part and it was actually going to get to me quite quickly. I have the same problem with the low number of vehicles in the scrap yards here. They crush them and ship them away quite quickly so there's nothing to go scavenging from. And as for folk that have done what your's had done, you'd think that there would be plenty of lids out there to be had! Glad you got something sorted. I'd be interested to know what the actual difference between the AJ and AR tops is. I expect its to do with the trumpet inside but not sure.

I think part of the reason is also the well publicised ongoing issues with the Mk IV, People would rather buy a good condition Mk III.

I'd never been before, but would happily go again! Walking past the YHA Ravenstor house was a big eerie though! Also amazed at what you find atop a mountain

Thank you, I got one sorted! It's off a 1.4l mk2 fabia, somehow they have the same part 👌🏼 Hi yes I had seen your post recently, but no the rear tab hadn't broken I have bought my vrs with a cone filter installed and the top half of the airbox missing! So all I really needed was the top portion. Unfortunately living in Northern Ireland they don't have many fabia's in scrap yards, so after 'TMB' told me they had found a good amount on ebay I checked it out. I also have a fabia 1.4l tdi mk2 2008 sitting at the house that I will be selling and I just happened to check the part number on that airbox... Exactly the same, probably not what you wanted to hear seeing as tps probably cost a mint for a new one🙈 Thanks for the quick replies guys, still getting used to this site so sorry if I've quoted you twice 😔

Probably somewhere in the range 75-100. Watch engine coolant temperature in VCDS during warm up of your car and compare to gauge indication. You'll see it gets to 90 indicated well before the sensor says 90. I've never played with seeing how hot it can get before it reads over 90; slightly dodgy thing to experiment with, cos you'll probably have to disable fans to get it hot enough to find out. It's not a biggie though, anywhere in that range is fine to drive any way you feel like.

Fixed! For future reference... the parcel shelf had come off its tracks and so I am guessing the sensor was picking it up as it got close to shutting!

Or do what I do. Drive even slower

Why should a diesel be different to a petrol re warm-up? Oil still has to get around the engine. I just start the car up, put the seat belt on, get comfortable then go. I don’t think letting either engine idle does anything except waste fuel. But see my sig below...

Re the battery losing charge - have you by any chance plugged in a new camera or other accessory, the cigy hole is live all the time so would cause a drain, are the internal lights going out when you lock the car. As suggested above if you do not use the car very often and have mains access connecting a trickle charger would be a good idea when you leave the car.

The best thing is to start the car, let it idle for a few seconds and then drive immediately off but driving gently until it's warmed up. Leaving a car idling for long periods actually increases wear and takes a long long time to warm up especially on a diesel. In fact a diesel is likely never able to get up to temperature by just idling.

After emailing Skoda customer services I had to take mine into the dealership for this resolving, it does partially work now

The 'dogging' tint.

Take it to a garage that has a road force balancer. This spins the wheel/tyre against a roller with about 600kg of pressure and measures the forces the wheel imparts onto the roller as a result of inperfections in the rim or tyre. You can then rotate the tyre about the rim to cancel many of the forces much of the time. The machine will tell you if this is possible in your case. Wheels on new cars a balanced in this manner. Spinning the wheel in air like a standard balancing machine doesn't tell the whole story if there is a problem. A perfect square wheel would balance no problem but you wouldn't want to drive on it. This will at least give you conifdence in the wheels/tyres being ok incase there is another issue. https://www.balancemycar.co.uk/

tried to find it in the manual, no luck yet, def looks like M6 x approx 15mm to me. EDIT found it...... Part number is N 10170302 It is M6 x 10mm

Try a damaged screw extractor set - if they go big enough. Check them out on Amazon. Good luck

Lots of things to try, in order. 1. Heat 2. Penetrating fluid 3. sometimes hammering it flat bends the sides over enough to get a grip again and the heat and hammering helps release it 4. If you have something like a screwdriver the right width or a square drive you can hammer into the stripped spline, then get a socket or pliers on it. 5. Sharp chisel on the outer edge of the bolt head and tap it round in the correct direction. 6. Drill out and proper stud extractor 7 Weld a nut on the top. Good luck Were you using a torx?

The reasoning of wanting some oil to top up if necessary is the same as being glad the Scala comes with a proper spare wheel: better to have what you don’t need, than to need what you don’t have. and in my experience there is a vast difference between what dealers should do and what they actually do

Not 'warm', that is what Skoda put in owners manuals while VW, SEAT, Audi said 'Hot' or 'at normal operating temperature'. Hot / Operating temp is the correct if Skoda was to not get lost in Translation. Buy the VW 508 00 / 509 00 wherever it is the cheapest. 0w 20 FS IV. That might be from a Skoda Group Dealer on Ebay like Parks of Hamilton. Or anyone else. Briskoda Sponsor http://opieoils.co.uk Odd how some Maindealers do not know what the correct oil is yet they know how to charge lots for it compared to 5w 30 FS III

Apologies, I'd forgottent the thread was about non-SD card Amundsens. Actually, my post was offering advice, not looking for help! Rolls eyes, laughs at self.

Lease ends July 31, and I'm absolutely coming up against the challenges you mention... microchip shortage, customer demand. What's more, if I went Sportage again, I'd like the almost-announced facelift, which is reckoned for March availability, or, if I pushed up to Sorento, that's supposedly six months - even four months for a current-gen Sportage. The cars I'm looking at are Kodiaq and Tarraco, maybe Sportage/Sorento, maybe 5008/C4 Grand Spacetourer/CR-V. It's a perfect storm. I will have use of other family cars (Corsa and Seat Leon estate), so it's not a disaster, but still really tough to buy at the moment. Anyway, it was sort of an in-principle question, notwithstanding all those issues - the idea of taking an SE base and loading it up to SE L equivalence to benefit from the extra boot space in a 5-seat model. But I guess you're saying, even assuming that's not cray, the supply issues may be compounded further by a custom-spec of this kind (?).

I think that you are leading yourself down a blind alley. Ask yourself how on earth the alleged failure of an infotainment screen could cause the problems that your vehicle has? Then look carefully at their statement and translate it from money grabbing bull***t to real world talk. "infotainment screen blown and maybe a control unit as well but that can't be ascertained until the screen is replaced at a cost of £900 plus fitting." Translates to "we want to take you for £900 before we consider fixing the real problem at further expense." Once they realise you accept being taken for £900 for nothing then the door is wide open for further exploitation. Ask for a print out of the diagnostic test or better still have a scan done elsewhere with something at least as in depth as VCDS, it will likely be corrupted coding of the body control module. Inconcievable that an infotainment screen that is working normally could be responsable for the faults you have following a voltage transient.

thanks for your help everybody. i bought this part - SKODA Octavia 2013 HEATER CLIMATE CONTROL BUTTONS 3T0820047AK from eBay / recycling place in Bradford and that cured the issue. Thanks,

I'd agree with that, it's likely Car Scanner Pro has done something weird. Might be worth contacting their support team and seeing if there is a backup or log of the coding changes etc? If not, I'd try and find a local member with VCDS to do an autoscan and adpmaps for you. That should give enough information as a starting point

2020 Kodiaq Style, 2.0 TDI 140 kW, 7 seat 4x4

Arh - difficult one this. Your "Car Scanner Pro" has obviously upset something in the coding of the MIB system. I am assuming that this is the product: https://www.carscanner.info/coding-mqb/ This is one of the lesser known products I've heard of & I've seen/heard other similar products have similar results (ie they mess up the coding). This is why it is generally recommended that you stick with either ODBEleven (Pro) or get a genuine copy of VCDS. If you can remember what coding you did (if it was in an App Form), then try and de-select the options you chose. Failing that, you are into a world of trying to find a similar car (spec wise) to yours. Other than that....I would budget about 2hrs with either a VW Specialist or your local Skoda Garage and try and get them to redo the settings via ODIS. Copying in @langers2k to see if he can assist (as he is the keeper of car configs).

Mine has gone up £1000 in value since I first checked. Though I won't sell it just yet as I have haggled with my finance provider and now only pay £160 a month for it. £185 if you include tax and insurance, so I would be daft to get rid when I still enjoy the car.

Have you had it serviced recently? Was the plugs changed? First things first would be to get it scanned again then go from there.

Okay - folks - I'll raise this point again. PLEASE PLEASE do not buy non-genuine VCDS because the software is a) Old as heck and won't support cars any newer than 2015, b) you are potentially supporting crime and c) you could risk damaging your car due to the hacking of that old version of the VCDS. I apprechiate that VCDS is not a cheap system - but it isn't expensive either. Folk on this forum are passionate about cars and I know that we all tend to grind our collective teeth when folk present with a non-genuine VCDS install and ask us to fix stuff for them. You are not going to get a good response. Alternatives to consider: ODBEleven (PRO) will allow you to do the same changes but from the comfort of your smartphone (and is almost quite okay these days). Carista ODB2 is also worth considering (although I haven't used it). Both are cheaper alternatives.

I agree, and can't see how that could be due to refrigerant either. Still, with a 4.5 YO car, an air con recharge is probably wothwhile anyway.

Now I do! Ahahaha

Financially, yes. But it tells you absolutely nothing about what effect different speeds and driving styles have, in your car. By monitoring the results for individual journeys, I’ve learned a lot about what my car “likes”. For example, where the Superb 1.6 diesel was not much more thirsty at 70 than at 65, the Kodiaq 1.4 petrol noticeably is.

£42.94 from the dealers. Seems a lot for a bit of thin bent aluminium but hey ho, I ordered it to stop the spare wheel going on fire!

It just take considerably longer to get up to temperature if you leave the car to idle. I timed it once - typical Scottish Day - 10C - took 30 mins for the car to get up to temperature on idle.

Squabs removed tonight...many thanks for your input and advice...I have that extra space I needed.Carl

I have this issue too but only intermittently. For example, yesterday I drove down the M3 from Basingstoke to Southampton and back during the day in fairly light traffic. All the way there ACC worked perfectly, frequently passing slower vehicles in the lane to my left, but on the way back it kept slowing down because of them. I had been wondering for some time if the radar was misaligned or had two wide a view ahead, but then I noticed for the first time that in these situations the lane assist display actually showed a white car in the neighbouring lane - as someone else has explained above. So, my car knew that the car it was slowing down for was in the lane to my left, so had no excuse for slowing down. When I got home I looked around various settings and found that the car was incorrectly set for “Driving on the right”. If the car thinks I should be driving on the right, then it would correctly prevent me overtaking a car to my left. But the mystery then would be why it often does allow this. I’ve changed this setting to “Driving on the left” but haven’t had an opportunity to test it so far. i'm wondering if this setting also explains why I have been finding I get flashed when using the matrix headlights on rural A roads? It will take me a while to know whether this change has helped with these two problems but I will report my findings when I’m confident it’s made a difference - or not.

We've got a couple of sdis in the the family. Dad has a MK1 fabia and I have a MK2 caddy. They can move alright when they want to, just have to use a bit of driver ability to stay on the power. The best thing you can do for them is get the cambelt changed and timed up well if it's not had one recently. They can stretch older or cheaper belts, which results in a lot of power loss. It's never going to be fast, so just enjoy it for what it is. I probably have more fun driving my 68?hp caddy than my vrs that's got about 100hp more.

Hi, relatively new to this forum and I'm no car expert but I do have high standards when choosing a used vehicle. For me it's a combination of all of the above, the dealer must be decent, drives well, condition inside and out of very good quality (if not pristine) and the right service history in place. Never accept compromises and be prepared to walk away if you're not completely happy with something. I've recently picked up an ex-motability Octavia VRS and I hope it serves me well in line with my original judgement (fingers crossed anyway!). Best of luck with everything.

A bargain - brand new Alloy 16" rims for Yeti (or similar) I recently posted on Classified Ads (wheel and tyres) - but no reponse as yet so have reduced price from £275 to £150 for quick sale Set of 4 bought for my Yeti to replace the 17" but never got fitted as have had to stop driving on medical advice, and my Yeti now sold. The rims are itWHEELS Elena Black Polished 7,00x16 5x112,00 ET45,00 They are still in orginal packaging - as delivered. Price £150 -(ONO) - buyer to collect or arrange collection and delivery from Worcester