Leaderboard

you ok hun? 😂

I can see you are a risk taker by how few spare tyres you have on the roof! 😆

Sorted.

9,000ft msl

Since i have to cross thru national parks at 2am to save time during the day since most of my meetings are at 11am... and many night travel crossing very hostile zones and hours from civlization My standar equipment in my Fabia consist of: Spare tire, Tire inflator/sealant, electric air pump, tire repair kit, metric tools from 8mm to 18mm (ratches and wrenches), screw drivers, allen keys, torx bits for the screw drivers, a spare belt, gallon of destilled water, swimming fins, swimming shorts, soap, towel, swimming gogles, a tent, two fire extinguisher, one first aid kit, ropes, tow tools, tie racks, no.12 wire for any electrical issue, a multimeter, swiss knife, a Machete (dont ask why, i just like how it looks) two flashlights, 120w inverter, solar trickle charger, insect killer, torch gun, with 3 cartridges, an umbrella? a jump star cable, a jump starter, a life saver (my partner doesnt know how to swim) and a shirt, pants, underwear and shoes.. all very well acomodated and distributed between the front sas, the golve box and the trunk, visible only the gallon of destilled water, the life saver the jump starter and the bag with swimming stuff and the tent, so the trunk is clean and empty lol And some times i take the power generator with me

Lubricant wont make the slightest bit of difference, it will be corroded on. The pullers usually are not rigid enough to remove a corroded and seized wiper arm and will need the addition of the good news with a hammer, you can get away with that on the front spindles aside from the bonnet obstructing the swing but on the rear the puller is perilously close to the screen. A Dremel will work but not necessary, a hacksaw will have it off in no time without damaging anything else, angle grinders & dremels close to glass are not a good idea as the molten sparks will embed in the glass, maybe the Dremel does not throw off sparks, its the one tool that I have yet to find an excuse to buy = to date unnecessary.

And if you're not in when they deliver, they'll leave round the side by the blue (recyling) bin...just make make sure its not on the recycling collection day...🤪

Shows how tough they are really, though.

That diesel is loud, next time put the big rocks on top of the engine and its harmonics with shatter them to smaller pieces. 🤣

£8 24 hour 5kg delivery from MyHermes!

But let's not forget the majority of EVs are being used as company cars due the the low BIK. You can get an Enyaq VRS, etron sportback or a Tesla all in for circa £130 pm. It is cheaper to do that than buy something older & out of warranty and you've still got your money to invest

Or take your hands from your pocket and start repairing them, as I did (for less than £15).

After a veeeery frustrating 8 month wait, our new Kodiaq (and 1st ever Škoda) is finally here! We got a Style TSI 190 4x4, and it is quite well equipped, with some options that I particularly enjoy every day: Matrix LEDs - awesome Canton - sounds alright, and feels good that I managed to spec it before they removed the option from the configurator Auxiliary heater - hard to live without in cold winter mornings And most importantly the Ergo Comfort seats - the added underthigh support is great for taller people and the seats feel overall better than in any other Kodiaq I've test driven. All in all a great car so far!

A little of what i do when traveling/work https://youtu.be/WzB_GDB7VCg 20220115_131110.mp4

Would definately make a noticeable impact on handling and fuel economy, for the cv axles I think you'd need to look under the car and see how they sit on the car currently. Are you sure your car isn't sitting low or something, my sdi sat very high and it took a lot of hard driving in fields pretty easily, very seldom was it bottoming out, pic related. Unless your shocks (and more importantly springs) are pretty new, it could be sitting a bit low compared to what it should be. Bad shocks will have you bottoming out a lot and springs can sag over time especially with a big diesel lump that our cars have.

Shipping a known good lithium ion battery is easy, but try shipping faulty ones back. I have experience of this over years in IT both trying to get faulty ones back from customers to test and sending them back. Problem is it’s the faulty packs that people don’t want to touch as it’s too unpredictable. I would imagine a dry powder/foam based system could be build into the battery trays in the future to keep oxygen out. Water on the other hand… no thanks 😂😂

Now that you finally have the alternator sorted out you really need to check the battery because you've been killing it for all that time.

my car has the handle fitted

saw one on the road today. Ioniq 5, in a darkish silver metallic. it looks.... retro-futuristic? especially from the back. as in it wouldnt look out of place in an 80s movie set in the 2030s. kinda Judge Dredd / Robocop type cityscape? does that make sense? all the fake grills along the bottom of the sides and rear bumpers. its... i dunno. not necessarily ugly, but also fairly nondescript and forgetable.

You're welcome, Ryan. And people say I'm not helpful 🤣🤣

The final one from Slimer before it was sold 70 miles later. Never fear, the Silver Slug will soon hit 31K though.

Hi guys, My name is Milosh and I have recently bought myself my first car. Skoda Fabia Mk1 2006 1.4 TDi with 69HP and 93k Miles/ 150k km. I have always been a fan of Skoda since I remember of myself and now since I am a proud owner of one,I want to make my first car a very nice experience. If you guys have any tips about this specific model year etc,feel free to share it with me. I have attached pictures below if anyone is interested.

Sorry this is really embarrassing I feel bad now , it turned out that both dipped beam bulbs had blown at once, and somehow I was sold 2 new faulty bulbs. So, Having tried all your ideas to no avail , I booked it in. I’ve just paid £45 to an auto electrician to fit another 2 bulbs. but your responses won’t be wasted , and there is a lot of good debate and info stored here for someone else in future. thanks all

Guess there's no turning back now https://www.facebook.com/jkclassics1/posts/347100040756549

I once drove a FIAT Panda, the old box shape ones, and it felt like it had no springs at all 😄

Broke like uncooked spaghetti, drove like cooked spaghetti.

All fun and games until you realise they've broken it in transit too and that you have to return it.

Kharl, you need a Lada Niva 😛

When I first started driving 70 was a low profile tyre, cannot remember seeing 65, although I believe 60 were available but not on any cars I would see.

For those type of roads if you have not already done so you could look at smaller diameter wheels with higher ratio sidewall tyres and if speedo, odometer. readings do not matter go a size taller with wheel and tyre combination, would help with the crawling and higher speed cruising.

Oh dear

I'm still waiting for someone to post some seriously impressive mods for their Skoda, like upgrading their turbo with this baby... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113823113322?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28 😁

If any of you would like to know what software updates are outstanding, I'm happy to take a look if you send your VIN over. Worth knowing there's alot more software on your cars than just infotainment We can also carry the updates out for anybody local to us. However please bare in mind we can't cover the costs under your warranty so there would be a small charge (but we'd do everything that's outstanding). If you can, try your local dealer first - just be prepared for a few visits

Just as a side point, petrol cars used to run carbs and have rear fill fuel tanks which were in the boot. A few years later rear fill goes, then the tank goes under the rear seats to protect it and carbs go and are replaced with injectors with safety systems. I'm not suggesting batteries in their current state are good and certainly I'm not super happy with them. I'd like to see home storage coming from other safer systems and yes I'd like a fuel cell car. However we shouldn't forget that petrol cars were worse and now they're much safer. Generation 3 of EV might well learn a lot from Gen2, which learnt a lot from Gen1 and the protoypes. Wether it's battery, fuel cell or something completely different, new cars won't be powered by petrol or diesel from 2030 onwards.

Mine has the same height of yours, but yes, i need more.

i found a app vcds app for android wil see if it work whit my obd scanner . tommorow

Dealer won't touch it with a bargepole. Critical element is he, the user, installed it. Not a dealer or other authorised 3rd party. These lights all need to be coded to the specific car, if not they do weird things.

Bite their hand off.

I keep meaning to do a Guide thread with pictures of the two units, their locations and functions; but never seem to get round to it. It doesn't help that there are so many names for each of them, some of which are very similar.

VCDS autoscan will tell you the part number of the Onboard Supply Control unit (often confused with Central Convenience unit which isn't relevant here) at address 09 Central Electronics. Needs to start with 6Q0 or 6Q1 rather than 6Q2, I believe. e.g. (in first orange rectangle)

^ Yeah, I don't know much about cruise control but I know you need a kit like this.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402868729216?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A15N1ykS6PRHO-MDEuu5WIDA1&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=402868729216&targetid=1596500856669&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9046824&poi=&campaignid=15278604175&mkgroupid=135429446288&rlsatarget=pla-1596500856669&abcId=9300698&merchantid=7131484&gclid=CjwKCAiA6seQBhAfEiwAvPqu16MRRd5CCHP8k5J7OJtxWEm4pR8lRlsbKKQK2fDAkWO4eFY3nt2mVhoCPO4QAvD_BwE

the sticker has died of old dirt sadly. but i think the car registration papers share a light on it. type: SE AZQX01

I'm happy with my 306 hdi and skoda 1.4 tdi. Just looking at the future to see where things stand as I know things start to change with dpf, dmf and even add blue. These are the things I will stay clear of due to big problems I see regularly.

Throwing my 2 cents in, A remapped PD100 is plenty powerful enough for 99% of driving. Slap a rarb on that to make it handle. If you want a vRS bumper, you need the facelift bumper clips (only if your car is a pre facelift) and you need to extend the foglight wiring on the drivers side (I had to). vRS seats are hard to keep clean and most of them are trashed by this point. I got a set of Fabia Sport seats in my car, same seat but dark. Then I swapped the drivers and passengers seat base, as the passengers side one was in better shape. I've had some experience with Caddys and Golfs with 1.9 and 2l PD engines. Golf was a 2l Pd140 and it was great, but you wouldn't want any less power in one of them, imo. That sort of power in a fabia is plenty enough, speaking from experience as my monte is mapped to 140hp. You mention your ibiza spinning up at wet junctions, as a 105hp common rail? I never had an issue with my monte, same engine mapped. It only ever became an issue when I put some winter tyres on, normal tyres you have to really try to get the wheels to spin. Something I don't think anyone else has mentioned is brakes. A mk1 PD100, if i'm not mistaken has 256mm FSIII brakes, can see them getting overwhelmed pretty easy after a remap. vRS' came with 288mm on the front (and discs on the back) for a reason, even my monte (and your ibiza) with the CR105 unit came with 288mm fronts.

My guess is that the error codes were coming up during stop start operation and I suspect that when you eventually replace the battery then normal function will be able to resume without errors. The battery is probably still mostly good for general use but no longer optimal and may well be in decline. Lots of reports where general issues were eventually fixed by battery replacement. It's like the situation where on my mk2 the battery in the non-kessy remotes lasted for years, but the mk3 demands the battery in the remote is replaced after only a 18 months or so. When I test the removed battery it is still reading 1.5 volts and I can use them in other applications for quite a while, but it fell below the high voltage requirements of the mk3. Personal opinion is the Redex use and fuel supplier change had little to no effect, others will disagree. Of course there is also the possibility that there was some change implemented affecting the battery you have not told us about like fitting a recording camera or something.

To all extents should be considered the same engine for working on, the MK 2 model 1 had 70 and 80BPH, model 2, 3 and Greenline were 80BHP only. The ECU on the Greenline is an EDC17 which has to be opened up and mapped on a bench, unsure on the 1, 2 and 3 as these may be an EDC15 for which you can download and upload maps through the OBD2 port as on my MK 1 1.4TDI. I do not believe a DMF was fitted to any 1.4TDI. The Greenline has a taller ratio gearbox resulting in 30mph (@ 1700rpm) being best in 3rd gear unless you like to rattle the gears. Is the question due to you looking to upgrade - my MK 1 was also 70BHP and the Greenline is a leap forward in performance even though it only has 10BHP more, but the torque is about 114 vs 143 lb/ft with the 80BHP being at a much lower engine speed. Saying that I was impressed with the performance of my MK 1 70 which climbed/scurried over the Pennines every day to work.

Probably another good reason not to be sitting down there in your car waiting more than seconds before driving off towards (relatively) fresh air.

At some point soon I’m going to have to give in and pay the $3 per litre for some 98. Also, added an RS2 to the collection

I do not believe that figure for even one second.

After so many years, I barely remember! Well, to put things in order, the problem with mine was the CCM. What you can see at the photos I had posted above, isn't the CCM. I wasn't familiar with the car back then and I was misunderstood the parts and functions! I had bought the car with that problem (and some more) so it didn't happened to me. I don't know if the previous owner had seen any smoke. He still doesn't remember anything (I have close contact with both the previous owners). We are guessing that what caused the problem was a short circuit at the roof light. The CCM went off and caused the problem with the locks going mad! The other module (of which the photos are) continued to work ok! Of course there is the possibility the burning (and short) capacitor burned the CCM. That will stay a mystery. My CCM was not fried. Not a sign of overheating or a burning element. It just broke down. So practically, I can't help you. It seems you have different problem than mine!