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The shallow steel bottomed sumps are 11mm lower in overall height than the standard cast aluminium sumps so yes, despite your ever present sarcasm the volume of liquid that it can hold will be less. You will of course know with your expert knowledge that the shallow sumps do not counteract this reduction in capacity by being wider at any point, or longer at any point. Again using your massive brain, putting a fixed amount of oil into a car that has changed from alloy to shallow sump will see it register high on the dipstick. If it takes 4.3 litres of oil in a standard sump to get it to the max mark on the dipstick, then it obviously follows that you'll need less oil in a shallow sump to get to the same max mark. You will of course know exactly how far above the static oil level the crank is on a PD i assume, especially with the endless knowledge you bestow all over? But you know all of this so why come across with such blatent sarcasm? It's not funny now, and never has been. Your belittling manner gets tiring tbh, especially when folks are trying to help.

Lowered, innit. ^^ Turns out there's a cheaper way.

So having driven many electric cars, we've ended up on the first one we drove, which holds a good mix of features and doesn't have the one really annoying quirk of some others. The ID3/ID4/Enyaq all seem to have this interesting behaviour where if you (even very lightly) apply the throttle after lifting off the brakes then your stomach gets the opportunity to empty it's contents on the steering wheel. I think we're probably more sensitive to this than others, as people are clearly buying them, but it wasn't something we could live with. ID3 was far worse IMHO than the Enyaq, as it seemed to have softer suspension which allowed the car to roll around like a boat when you applied brakes then the accelerator. If I had to guess I'd say that there's something between the regenerative braking and a throttle response that is very on/off which shouldn't be too hard to fix with a software update. It may already be fixed, but there wasn't an update for that. As it is then we've gone and ordered a Kia EV6 on a lease and it's a GT Line AWD. The drive is good, the car is well equipped, the lease price was more reasonable than most other cars, there is a local (and helpful) dealer, the range seems good and the charging speed is better than most (even if it doesn't get full speed as some say). I really liked the iPace, which was nice to sit in, but slower charging and a bigger battery to do a similar real world range kind of dented that. When you then added in the much higher purchase/PCP/Lease costs, it was never going to happen. It seems the computers in the dealers have an EV300 on (As opposed to EV400), which was around 10k cheaper and would possible have swung it in the iPace direction. Having waited 6 months, it's sadly not available in the UK currently, so that's a no go. Cars we tried: - EV6 - Ionic 5 - ID3 - Enyaq/ID4 - XC40 - Jaguar iPace - Tried to get a Cupra Born (No such luck) - Tried to get a polestar2 (Nearest sales dealer is 200 miles away) - Tried to get a Model 3 (But it wasn't easy and then the touch screen put me right off) - A few others were sit in them and decide we didn't like them enough to drive.

You're ok that cat is alive... it is a car. I'll fill in more details on the EV6 vs Enyaq thread, but we have an EV6 on order. 👍

It's a difficult decision and what I've decided i'l do is purchase some new/ decent second hand alloys and see if that fixes the wobbling, rumbling and if it doesn't see if it's a wheel bearing. Failing that, then I'll cut my losses and part exchange it Thanks to you all for the advice, you've been more than helpful

I've just ordered a BMW IX, the 40 which is the base spec, M sport trim - £74k. It's using my car allowance as I wanted to take advantage of the low BIK and is one of the very few new cars you can fit 3 full sized baby/toddler car seats on the back bench. There is no chance I would ever spend this amount of money on a car, let alone an electric one. My thoughts on this is that it was the only one that felt "premium/different", and I had tried the Tesla 3 performance (good bye licence), the Jaguar I pace (didn't think anything of it), Mach E (quite liked this), E-tron 55 (fine, but boring, felt like my Q3 inside). I had the IX for 4 days to try it out, range - no where near as stated, more like 200 miles and this was temps between 6-10C. I had times where the range would tank for no apparent reason. Luckily it's not needed for very long journeys, so not that concerned. I don't know if this is my age, but modern car designs and interiors just don't do it for me, they're like clones of each other - boring and a bit tacky (diamond knobs/ copper plastic vents/ fake diffusers/ fake exhausts/ fake noises/ "soft plastic"/LED light bars)...I guess we get what we ask for. I've had my 3.6 superb for about 5 days and I'd sooner jump into that than anything electric and/or modern, bar the very silly end of pricing for the latter.

@froggy8 If you do not know about cars yourself Just buy a car local or near enough to not make it difficult if issues and from a trusted seller if they are in the motor trade. See a car, drive a car and take a trained or qualified mechanic or someone with a knowledge of cars, the parts, the servicing, the drive trains, engines, gearboxes, awd systems etc. Be aware of places that do their own MOT's or have a mate / pal / buddy with test station. As far as a post earlier about what most Cabbies use. What the majority use means nothing, because you are not buying the majority, just 1 vehicle and these days 'Fast Food Deliveries', and 'Home Shopping' deliveries are done in any type of cars / vehicles available and can do as many miles as a Private Hire / Taxi. More miles and more stop start driving over lots of hours in a day than even taxis do.

“Distance Selling” Under the Consumer Contracts (Information, Cancellation and Additional Charges) Regulations 2013. https://www.themotorombudsman.org/distance-sales-faqs You are protected under “distance selling” which gives you 14 days to reject a vehicle and cancel the purchase. You will still have your statutory rights under the Consumer Rights Act 2015, which gives you the right to reject the car for a full refund within the first 30 days after purchase. Due to covid lots of sales were done under “distance selling” where potential buyers could not inspect / test drive cars therefore needed this protection from dodgy dealerships where cars differ from what was advertised. I bought a dented and scratched Mercedes from a main dealership in Swansea and had to go through this process - it was a headache and that was with a main dealer so expect more of a headache with an independent small garage. Ensure you correspond by email not telephone so you have a record of all what is said. Some garages will not answer an email and instead call you. Be wary of this. To protect yourself you need certain things confirming in an email. Always hard to argue what was said in a call - your word against theirs. If you think worse case scenario and don’t trust any dealer, you won’t go far wrong. Regardless of who they represent, Mercedes or a one man band garage, there are bent salesman in my experience and what I have heard from others. Obviously not all are but if you protect yourself initially it may save problems later down the line. Hope that helps. Mike

It's not just that the cover can get loose over time. Even if it's not loose, it can start melting. This one (not mine) was still firmly attached to the motor and when the owner took it of, it was already melted a bit on the back side near the turbo.

Tom, as others have covered one side I'll cover the other - no matter you've spent before you must consider that as in the past, the amount of money is irrelevant, it's gone, it's what you have now as condition of the car and how much more you're going to spend. You don't want to be putting good money after bad. Take it from me I've done it a couple of times and both in multiples of what you have, all lost money I could have used on much better things. I wouldn't repeat those mistakes now and wish I hadn't then but you can't alter the past only the present and the future perhaps.. You might not appreciate what I've put now but possibly later you will understand what is vitally important today can be totally forgotten about in the future with other priorities, life, experience and perhaps age. Good luck with however you precede.

That is definitely a fair decision, but I don't think this one issue would have been enough to deter me personally, if the car ticked all the other boxes. Worst case scenario, if the Haldex pump did fail and the warranty wasn't honoured (which would seem very unfair), a new pump can be had for a shade over £200, and can be fitted yourself. On the other hand, if you're confident of finding another car that fits the bill, there's no need to take even that relatively small risk. Good luck with the continuing search 👍

5x100 VW stuff 100% will. Mk4 Golf platform aswell as Polo/Ibiza sister cars will all fit. Always thought a Set of Montreals would look ace on a vRS. Brake light switch should be easy to do, stick your head under the dash and you'll see a button looking thing near the top of the brake pedal, thats what you're looking at changing. SMF wouldn't dampen vibrations as well as a DMF no, but you'd get used to it pretty quick. Its definately not going to shake it to death. Worth noting a Heavier Single mass flywheel will dampen more vibrations than a lighter one.

Exactly the same headlight on car parts 4 less for £40 less per headlight

I've seen an add for some which are £300 which match my current alloys. I'd prefer those really but thanks for looking . That's a good shout, I'l be sure to mention that to the mechanic when it goes in and see what they say Thanks to you both, Tom

Faulty brake light switch can cause the glow plug light to come on.

if thats the only time it throws a tantrum hes a lucky man

I stand corrected; removing the exhaust manifold might be a bit challenging! But, having seen the video of the Golf engine at 10k miles, I can't see many private owners undertaking that job and I shudder to think what a garage would charge, assuming they were safe to be let loose on it. Maybe long term a Morris Minor is a better bet.

I don't think it's unreasonable of you to ask that the Haldex service is carried out before buying the car. When I bought my car I subsequently found out that the Haldex service had not been done. When I complained to the dealer, they offered to carry it out for free themselves, or pay half the cost of another dealership doing it (it would've been a 600 mile round trip for me to go back to them). I was pretty annoyed at the time, as, like you, my expectation was that an 'approved used' vehicle sold by Skoda would have had any 'missing' services done before being sold on. Clearly this is not the case, and I didn't know enough at the time to ask. As above though, if this car has reached 40k miles I would be a lot more worried about making sure the DSG service was done (if it has a DSG, of course).

You don’t want to be spending money on a car with overdue service work, I would tell the dealer that it has to be done as part of your negotiation. Also insist on a full print out of the service history (including after this work is done) to ensure it is correctly logged. If car is now at 40k miles ensure any DSG fluid change was also done. To be perfectly honest there is a theory that says if you don’t ask, you won’t get, so why not try do the work and extra £200 off for every service item missed, you have nothing to lose, even if you compromise on £50 off and all the work done still got a saving. Unfortunately some dealers idea of a full service history isn’t that all parts were serviced at correct mileage as per manufacturers guidelines.

Always do this and clear the DTCs then take the test drive and see if any come back and then make a decision depending what shows. Did this for a friend and it showed up a heater fan issue John

The colour is a new one to the M3, unfortunately everyone is now picking it (it's a no cost option) so it may well become one of the dominant colours and it's also available on the 2 series family wagon I believe 'Exclusivity' is a not a club I am a member of

I'd certainly be taking it into account when negotiating with the dealer... get them to knock the cost of the missing service(s) off the price, or do them before you collect it...

Ask, and draw inferences if they refuse.

Mine gets delivered on Thursday!

Most are ok with it from my experience, companies like the AA/RAC offer inspections so most garages expect it. If they have an objection it would ring alarm bells for me.

I was going to get some from Halfords at £20 but popped into Asda beforehand and found some at £8 for 5L. I had what I thought was the last 3 but they said there was more 'in the back'. Result.

100% scan it, any honest dealer won’t have any issues. only had 1 dealer object, turned out it had been clocked… by A LOT!

I'm hoping to get it detailed in a months time, so maybe after that. Here are a couple of cars that look identical to mine, except the brake calipers on mine are black

I had a similar problem when I was asking about taking this car out for a test drive. Decided not to bother with it though as they hadn't rang me back within 5 minutes! 😉 Seriously though, it seems some dealers are better than others as even after two emails and a follow up phone call to one dealer, I'm still no closer to getting the information I asked for. 👎

I think the Duck had spotted himself in the water?

It clips into the top of the plastic spare wheel retaining screw to stop it unscrewing itself.

My Ford Connect tells me engine won't start if the Adblue runs out so I would imagine most late models will be the same? As for the predicted 170% increase... I reckon its closer to 3-400%? I usually got mine from Tesco at £10 for 10l, Morrisons, Sainsbury were £12 or so. Early January I think, Tesco had no 10l, only 5l bottles at £7.50 ish and I've not seen any since. Last lot was 2x 10l from carparts4less online - collect from ECP - £26......at the moment they want £20 for 5l - £4 /L, greenchem at £25 for 10l or a bulk 20l for £60. Hopefully I can't get to work sometime soon 😀

Oh no, you've dun it now, got me going on a favourite hobby horse - warning miserable git man on soap box! The Polo used to be a small car, but decades back German cars like VWs got very overweight very soon so that was one factor to wheel size. But the main factors are fashion, wheels have got bigger as part of willy-waving, mine's-bigger-than-yours (penis substitutes for non-male owners) then to be Gangster and "to fill the wheel arches", they must be filled! Depending on the brakes 14" wheels would easily be enough even allowing for VW's excess weight on all models but how could you possible let people see such a diminutive part, the shame. I took a guess at 2005 for the year of the car and if the website is correct it shows 205/45R16 83V - 6.5J x 16, ET43. Some of the engine power is need to push these four tractor wheels and tyres against the road surface and they throw off more 'rubber' bits and give their wider hum road noise. They must be for semi-amphibious use, happily riding on water. For 14" 185/65R14 was the nearest I could get for tyre size, 14" wheels show as 6J1x14, ET43. The 185 are a little taller (within 3% for speedo) and give nominal 112mm sidewall against nominal 91mm for 16" tyre, a bit more 'rubber' cushioning on the potholes and smaller hopefully sturdier 14" wheel. run4mo (and I) will remember when 185/70 was the low profile for tyres, back in the last millennium, but somehow these skinny balloon tyres kept the fast cars on the road ,we were driving heroes, all muscle from the lack of power steering (other than the pedal under the right foot) . Admittedly the 16" V rated tyres are good for 149mph if the poor old engine has any puff left from hauling the car, the tyre width doesn't seem necessary for power or torque output but good to have plenty of spare margin perhaps. Ahhhhhh,I feel better for that. Someone put up a photo of an original Mk1 Polo parked next to a Mk4 ,see what a bully it turned into. 😁 ETA: You've only spent £4k in seven years(?) I thought you meant months, cumm'n yer not trying now. 😄

Managed to grab half hour or so on my head after work this evening. Didn’t get a huge amount done, but not trying to rush this. Injectors plugged in, before I forget 😛 Lifters were oiled, then fitted and injector clamp bolts torqued down to 12nm + 270 degrees. Thankfully, I have the used of a very flash and expensive Snap-on torque wrench that makes the last part of tightening very easy Hopefully, I’ll get some more done tomorrow.

Lots of rats at the Res, although fairly colourful later on........ VID_20220405_194839.mp4

I've seen quite a few sets of fabia vRS spyders for the £100 mark, tyres and all. My set were 80 euro and while they were rough to say the least, all the tyres held air and 2 of them were perfectly fine for road use. I painted mine up to get them looking presentable but thats just cosmetics. Any 5x100 vw rims would work, whatever you can get a good deal on really. Rear discs aren't much either. I paid just over 20 euro for 2 discs for the same. Clutch and DMF job would be pricey, but most of that is from the price of a dmf. If you were to convert it to a smf you'd be taking a lot off that £1000 quote.

You'll probably never get it - no one wants to go to Grimsby!

Thank you

Have you scanned it for any fault codes as they will give an idea of what is causing the problem. The other easy to check is the fuseable links on top of the battery, they an fracture and cause low voltage to the pump/controller you need to look very closely as the fractures are hard to spot again this would throw up a fault code for low voltage

I think your dealer likes to wind you up. Probably had your car in their compound for the last 6 months for the mechanics to have their lunch in on rainy days. You’ll get it for summer, which this year is a Wednesday 👍🏻

Every Yeti has KPH on the Maxidot. For those that have had it changed to MPH with VCDS or Carista etc there is a tick-box in the options to change it between MPH and KPH in seconds

Little pic from an outing to motorist hub at the weekend

This is interesting reading. The mileage ramped up in later years14-20K a year https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/

well, its definitely a mk1. honestly, noone can say its a good car without physically looking at all the oily bits - should they be oily? should they not be.... being an uneconomical repair write off, it could mean anything or nothing - its old, so a smooshed bumper could be enough for insurance to say good bye to it. in general if its been minded reasonably well and hasnt been overly abused or tinkered with by anyone who thinks they know more about what theyre doing than reality, it should be alright. it could be the photo angle but image 4 of the rear it looks like its sitting down on the driver's side rear? might need a suspension refresh if it is - thats trickier on the estate vrs as getting proper rated springs and dampers is getting harder, with a lot of misadvertised (through ignorance not malice) kits on the like of ebay etc. sellers listing them for estate vrs but they're actually for a mk4 golf gti and the rears wont sit properly other than the above - look for evidence of leaks everywhere. go through the service history if available and look for any big or odd parts being put on

Diesel or petrol. I’ve used racingline/shark. tvs engineering both very reliable and successfully all 3 vehicles have done over 100k no bother

I just need the car and the caravan and that will be me charging the car free at supermarkets and powering the caravan. I am only about £55,000 short of living the cheap life.

Strongly suggest taking this up with Darkside as they will be the people you need to speak too if there are any issues. Even pictures of each may will provide an answer on cross sectional area which with the reduction in depth may allow a quick/simple calculation. Is there a specific reason for looking to fit one of these?

goodyear eagle asymetric 5 I have the 3's that I am going to change after 56000km. they are long llasting, comfortable, quiet, fuel efficient and great grip and don't break the bank.

Tyres need to have their pressure checked regularly. You can’t come to the conclusion that the dealer didn’t inflate them properly 12 months ago by using a measurement from now. That’s on you, I’m afraid.

I think possibly someone who gets work done like that or does the work themselves it is because they are too lazy or too tight fisted to do the work properly or they have trusted someone else to do the work for them. @Larry97 the fan probably stopped working because you disturbed one of the many bad connections that have been added - but I wonder if the fan thermoswitch actually works or not, the wiring might have been to save ordering a new switch and the work of fitting it. You need to test that the fan and thermoswitch work. Easiest way to test the fan is working is to reconnect the bodge wiring and turn on the dash switch. If the fan works you can disconnect all of that horrible added wiring and connections. Rewire as Thefelicahacker has said and then run the engine up to temperature on your drive. Use a bit of cardboard to block off the cooling air getting to the front of the radiator - key your eye on the temperature gauge if it goes to about 100-110 without the fan turning on immediately remove the cardboard and turn off the engine and let it cool. If the fan cuts in again immediately remove the cardboard and let the fan cool the engine until it cuts out again. Bear in mind, the engine running will have the water pump circulating the "water" coolant and the engine oil that also helps to cool, as soon as you turn the engine off both of these will stop and the engine gets warmer until it reaches a point where it has soaked up all the heat and then start to lose the heat. You do not have to do what is in the following video but it is a good clear video to explain the switch for you and why it might have been left not working.