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You guys can greenwash til you're blue in the face but there's a finite proportion of electricity that's renewable and a far higher proportion of the population claiming they use it and only it. And now I'm out.

The only way any consumer can use 100% certified renewable energy is if they are connected to a (non existent) parallel version of the National Grid. I have no doubt they PAY for 100% renewable energy to be placed ONTO the National Grid, but that is not the same as USING 100% renewable energy. The electrons don't know who paid for them to be placed onto the grid, they just take the path of least resistance meaning whatever you pay for is unrelated to what you use and is determined by the combination of network path resistance and generating sites closest to you able to meet the demand. Anyone who says they USE 100% renewable energy because they PAY for 100% renewable energy simply does not understand how the flow of electricity works, and if the make public declarations that they use 100% renewable energy then they are guilty of false advertising.

This may be new world record. The topic was 20 odd posts into the second page until laughing boy could contain himself no longer, and had to tell us (yet again) the exceeding clever and completely legal tax avoidance process of paying his enormous surplus income into his pension fund. Congratulations on such unusual restraint.

Nobody would do that and then boast about it on a forum would they? Answers on a postcard please.............

From the bank holiday… Pembrokeshire. the cloud dragon of wales warming up

Vauxhall Belmont. When was the last time you saw one of these?

Love the contrast of the yellow and pink Magnolias👍

ii just test the moisture level with a tester and if it says no moisture, then it does'nt need changed

Hi all, So when I upgraded to a dual camera setup and mounted the rear dash camera to the rear glass in-between the defrost lines, I found that I had lost all DAB reception. Recently I tried to buy some ferrite cores and mounted them on both ends of the USB cable and still had no reception. I'm also aware that there are some dash cameras companies that advertise that they have eliminated DAB interference but they want you to spend £200 or so on their new systems. 🙄 I got to experimenting and removed the mount, left the DAB radio on and then moved the rear dash camera while it was on, all over the rear glass to figure out where it cut off the DAB reception. If you mount anywhere on the glass you were going to cut off the signal. I found a nice spot (or so I thought) just underneath the top brake light right up at the edge of the plastic trim, but the problem was that my specific dash camera has a straight cable going out instead of something like a right/left-angle cable (and it's really not so easy trying to find a 6m left-angle to right-angle mini USB cable), so when I opened the boot door it would brush up and against the cable. If I had shut it without looking I'm pretty sure the cable would've been caught between the boot opening and damage both the cable and camera. Then there was another issue, that area below the top brake light gets really hot under the sun, so if you had a weak adhesive on the mount it'll probably fall off over time but the final problem was running the cable back to the C-pillar. I used the provided clips and mounted the USB cable to the top of the plastic trim and that's when the signal cut out again. I tried to shield the wiring using some layered aluminum foil (which I had planned to wrap around the USB cable if it had worked), unfortunately that didn't work and I'm aware that there are some EMF tape but those are very expensive to buy and experiment with. I've already wasted money getting various ferrite cores. Ultimately it looked like this wasn't going to work with any powered USB cable mounted on the plastic trim or rear glass, it all just seems to interfere with the DAB reception. My working solution was something I had found on a bimmer forum. Using what I had available I made this bracket (from a spare joist hanger bracket, lots of hammering, bending and satin black spray paint). Here it is fitted, off centre as there is a plastic trim clip holding up headliner. And here it is with the dash camera fitted and the cable tucked into the headliner and into the C-pillar. I might take it back out and re-adjust the angle so that it fits into the headliner better (or remake it entirely). The only issues I have is that the rear view is off centre and further back than before. The view is also slightly obstructed by the upper brake light cover and parcel shelf. However I have full DAB reception now with this set up, so I can listen to some tunes other than my own (and traffic announcements). 😁

<two pence> Okay so hawd the bus here... How can we go from driving slower for the overall benefit of the Ukrainians, allegedly, to discussing @lol-lol's moral compass/decision making? I feel like there's a time and place for the latter and I don't think this is it. </two pence>

Glad you have got it sorted with Lloyds. However it still appears that you have to get Aviva to remove the spurious cliam from CUE & MID otherwise Lloyds may refuse to pay out. Good luck with Aviva on Monday. I am sure that you are well capable of telling them the error of their ways.

Qualified mechanic here - Skoda and other maindealers set a time limit on brake fluid and probably dont even own a hygroscopic tester. The brake fluid manufacturers state that between 0-1% water concentration is perfectly fine. Between 1-2% there is a slight loss of hydraulic efficiency when the fluid heats up. Anything over the 2% is when they class the fluid as a significant lower efficiency. The efficiency goes down when the fluid heats up causing cavitation in the lines and reducing the effectiveness of the brakes. Now from a prospective of working on cars and my own and not a sales man - Have it tested ideally at the reservoir and also at the caliper as these will be points of ingress. Chances are it will be in the orange/green zone. Dont change it. But that being said the longest id leave it before changing is 4/5 years depending on driving style.

If that was a one off I would suspect contamination of the road surface.

In the UK & EU E10 means a maximum ethanol content of 10%, so in theory it can be anywhere between 0% and 10%.

Hi Satnav systems work out their position using a number of orbiting satellites. The fewer the satellites they can receive, and the weaker their signals, the more error there is in the calculated position. The software takes the position and then "assumes" that you are on the nearest road (as long as there is one closer than say 50 metres), so snaps the "car" symbol onto the road. Most of the time this works so well that you are unaware of it. However, anything that significantly reduces the number of satellites that can be "seen" can give noticable problems, especially at complex junctions or where two roads run in parallel. Driving in a steeply banked cutting will hide satellites low in the sky. Driving under heavy tree cover (especially with wet leaves) will weaken signals. And of course, a faulty GPS antenna or a fault with its cabling or power supply can cause problems. Past posters have reported problems with the roof mounted combined GPS/Radio antenna due to water ingress. Alternatively there could be a hardware or software problem with the head unit.

Any coding done will not be overwritten by a remap. My car is mapped and all the coding is fine.

Because EVs only ever use renewably sourced electricity??

Good idea that I don't think has any chance of happening officially. Anyone can do it by choice though, obviously.

Just wanting people to know what legal schemes are out there and if one wants to put an end to them then vote the right (not-right) way in two weeks time. Oh and I would like to thank the people who voted for BREXIT which has given people who work in customs such a massive increase in work to do but every cloud......

Which is why any person or organisation who are connected to the National Grid and does not generate more than the energy they consume who claims that they use 100% renewable energy is quite simply a liar. My power systems lecturer during my Electronic & Electrical Engineering degree was excellent at debunking false claims ☺️

E85 has been common in some European countries and also America for many years. I ran some trials on an E85 Saab imported from Sweden many years ago. The Ethanol content means the fuel has a lower energy content than normal petrol and so you need to burn more to get the same power, hence why the fuel consumption gets worse. But the Ethanol provides a greater octane rating and so the timing of the engine can be advanced further and hence more power generated.

So, have I got this right? You charge your EV for free, then fleece the UK tax payer for the tax relief. 😡 Let the moral debate begin…

E85 is nominally 85% ethanol and 15% petrol. The number after the E is usually the expected/maximum ethanol content as a % by volume.

@J.R. The groan is for you just assuming that people that sign up to the suppliers are doing so because of what you posted. There are people who are just looking for getting a deal and maybe offpeak electricity and nothing more than that. The electricity is produced by someone somewhere, and what is wrong is the contracts that pay some more not to produce but to be on standby, or those with contracts to supply at ridiculous prices agreed many years ago. The firing up of coal powered stations this year and the cost of that because the spending is not done on connecting new generation to the grid. Obviously there are those that suck up the spin. The Regulators are in the conspiracy with the government. Carbon Trading is the biggest of cons. Now there is the buying up of land in Scotland for companies Carbon-offsetting and the land prices are going stupid.

Yes. My apologies, I only realized that after I had made the post. I have also found the part itself already. Anyhow, thank you still!

It was quite an effort to do it but it was worth it.

And as someone that does I can tell you that you dont need a service shedule or an electronic tester (which I have) to know when you have excess H20 in the calipers. It has only ever once happened and was nothing to do with absorbtion from the atmosphere or through the flexible hoses (another myth based on a theoretical but unmeasurable science) it was on a Galaxy that had a recall because rain running down from the scuttle was falling directly onto the master cylinder cap which had an upturned U section where the float switch could swivel in it, the water went straight in and displaced the brake fluid (less dense) then travelled down and settled in the front brake calipers, they were full of rusty water and zero fluid, the concentric clutch slave cylinder failed also later on. That braking system running on pretty much water (the perfect hydraulic fluid but for one small detail!) worked perfectly until abused under very extreme circumstances. My MK1 Octavia had the fluid checked every year using the most expensive and regularly calibrated tester during the Télé-thon at the Lycée Pro where I volunteered, I also checked it with my own tester, it never showed any measurable contamination and was scrapped at 17 years old and 325000 miles with the original fluid in perfect condition.

You are on fire today Pete

I thought these two made a rather odd couple, unless of course the female is an albino?

Why not just replace the pair with aftermarket ones Would be easier rather than trying to source 1

It would make no sense that you need adaptations for something that should be available right away. On my car you push the light stalk forward and this symbol comes up which means that automatic high beam is on, when you start going a certain speed they start doing their thing.

Go out and play with it. Use the stick, rock it sideways and into manual then nudge forward and backwards to change also use paddles watch the indicator and see how it prompts upshifts but will also force a down shift if you are dragging the engine. Then once you are happy nudge rearwards when in normal D or Eco mode and see how that drives differently, pick up is quicker and revs are extended before shifting up. Give it a go on differing roads to ensure you are comfortable and then adapt your driving style to exploit a great feature.

I would utterly taken aback if any of the EV charge companies listed about use anything but certified 100% renewable energy as do Octopus for their home or business electricity supply and that includes:- Ionity, which is part owned by the marques of cars you have ie VW and Skoda, I recall, is certified 100% renewable energy. Even Shell, that super big mega profit making from its oil goods, they also certify that the electricity on their Re-charge network is 100% certified renewable according to its website and would expect the same is true for all Octopus electric juice partners. With IONIC I get 5% discount off the price of the energy and it is then put on to my subsequent household energy bill. That is a better percentage than the Allstar fuel card I have which buys the fuel at a few pence less than the retail price shown at the pumps but the bigger saving to me is that I only pay 20% of the cost of fuel as a Benefit in Kind so fuel is only about 35p a litre to me bought. I tried to get a company fuel/electricity card but could not wangle it but still use the EV when I can due to wanting to pollute less and at my Heathrow office the charge is completely free to me which is the best sourcing of "fuel" to do those road miles and then still claim the 45p tax relief of course as I get no mileage claim provision just the fuel card and car allowance. My colleagues are "fuming", pun intended, as the 45p a mile HM Treasury allowance is now nowhere near covering their motoring costs in the Cost of Living crisis. Nice to be both green and very cost efficient currently !

It sounds like somebody at Aviva has not done their job correctly and removed the "accident" details from CUE ( is CUE similar to MID?). I hope that you get it all sorted out quickly and without too much effort from your part.

S is still allowing the gears to change Automatically, the gears just hold to a higher RPM. You can select D or S. Or go to manual shifting. Your servicing might be fine and not an issue, especially as you seem to have not tried out your DSG and choices of ways of using it. Best Confirm the DSG is serviced with an Oil Change when required and not assumed it was done if no evidence with an Invoice or Receipt.

The rupes lhr15 Bigfoot is a fantastic polisher. Makes detailing paintwork a lot easier on your body as it’s very refined during use. They also do a brilliant range of polishes and pads to complement the machine. most half decent led handheld lamps will show swirls. I have a few of different sizes and lengths for use with different panels.

I'm unable to help either of you with your delusions, but wish you both well.

and after all the hard work - MOT passed 😀 couple of advisories to deal with, o/s/f brake binding slightly, n/s/r spring corroded, "corrosion to underbody components" and repairs covered in underseal (understandably) - time to enjoy some top down fun, then onto sorting the external bodywork out (lots of small dents and stonechips plus a new n/s/r outer arch)

Really going to rub salt into the wounds of those waiting a long time. Just picked up Kodaiq number 2, after the error with the first one. First one collected (with the wrong colour interior) mid Jan. Pick up its replacement today so 16 weeks between the two.

worth remembering that carparts4less and exp are the same company... so not surprised neither could tell you..

All together now... "You may sayyy I'm a dreamer, But I'm no the only one"... 😁

A preview of the new VW MEB software shipping "soon" to existing models. For those that don't know, VW have announced a service campaign to replace the 12V battery with an improved one, upgrade firmware in several hardware modules to make the software updateable over the air (OTA) and install software version 2.4 into the cars. After this, software version 3.0 will arrive via an OTA later in the year.

I completely discombobulated this Chaffinch when I played the video back to it! VID_20220421_192839.mp4 VID_20220421_192839.mp4

Finally installed😁😁😁😁😁 Man You can hear it

This rather depressing collection of parts depicts my next plan for the Octavia! With the quest for more power on hold for the moment (the K300 safely tucked away) And with track time booked at Blyton in July I want to refresh and upgrade the suspension where possible. Currently I have replaced the shock absorbers with KW coilovers, fitted a Whiteline rear anti-roll bar, renewed the rear beam axle bushes, and lower dog bone mount with powerflex items. I also fitted powerflex top mount bushes when the KW's went in and a front strut brace from an Audi TT. The front end needs more love however and being based on the MK4 platform I'm going to undertake the very popular suspension upgrade robbing all the best bits from the TT, S3, R32, LCR family. As shown in the photos I will be fitting:- *Audi TT cast lower arms *Audi TT subframe *Audi TT hubs *Audi TT quick rack These will all get cleaned up and painted, polybushed as required, new ball joints, new bearings etc along with a Whiteline front anti-roll bar to compliment the rear. The main reason for fitting the Audi TT bits are as follows... The subframe has extra bracing for rigidity, the cast arms are a better design and coupled with the hubs sit much flatter when the car is lowered. The ball joints on these arms also allow camber adjustment. It's well known that mk4 golf gti's etc eat driveshafts when lowered and that's because of the angle that the standard pressed arms introudce. Along with other negative traits like 'wheel hop' The standard steering rack on the octavia has a 3.7 lock to lock fitting the TT item will drop that number to 2.5 which is a huge difference! These are all well-documented straight swap upgrades with very welcome welcome improvements to handling. I will keep you updated as things progress! 👍🏻

You probably pulled back the gear selector lever as you selected D - pull the lever back against the spring-force you’ll feel there and it switches from Drive (D) to Sport (S) as you saw displayed. Gear change behaviour is changed for a ‘sportier’ style. It is a common DSG facility. In a manual I just found online it describes it like this:

Best you say what engine you have which then gives an idea of which DSG. But you have posts about an L&K. ? Are you absolutely sure you never moved the shifter to S rather than it being in D? ? So how many km / miles has it done, and has the DSG been serviced if it has done 65,000 km?

When doing the service on my Citigo two weeks ago, I used a 'Boa Constrictor strap wrench' to remove the oil filter. This can be useful around the house for many other things as well. They come in many sizes, look here:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=boa+constrictor+strap+wrench&crid=2PLSCK4GVX2XT&sprefix=boa+constroictor%2Caps%2C59&ref=nb_sb_ss_sc_2_15 Thanks, AG Falco