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Took the opportunity to see these guys return from Rhyl air show. VID-20220828-WA0019.mp4 VID-20220828-WA0019.mp4

The photo above is for a hatchback, the Estate/SW has a hard plastic boot lid trim, the hatchbacks have a fabric boot lid trim

Very likely, yes. Keep an eye on it; there may be a charging fault, or there may be a parasitic drain on the battery from some connected item with a fault. Or it may just be normal. Probably a good illustration of why they removed the state of charge display later; caused too much anxiety. In a minor fit of pedantry, the battery isn't coded to the car, the car is coded to the battery. There is nothing at all inside the battery that could harbour a code.

OK so was the battery probably wasn't re-coded to the car, that means the computerised charging schedule doesn't know it's a new battery and will be trying to charge to the old battery specs, you need to get it re-coded with VCDS/OBD11/Carista

Finally some good news: https://www.auto.cz/vetsina-provozu-v-automobilce-skoda-auto-funguje-po-dovolene-na-vsechny-smeny-145411

If you have the key in position I (one) then many systems will be awake and talking on the canbus network, using up a fair bit of juice. Position II (which allows your fan's to blow amongst other thing's) is an even higher state of readiness that will eat even more power. Even if the car does tell the radio to power down via canbus, the network (gateway) will still be talking to various modules still using power. The system doesn't even fully power down immediately after removing key and locking, it's still awake I think for 20mins before it leaves only alarm circuit. I am sure someone who has really pulled a car to pieces can say for sure.

Taken last week in the south of France after a 900 mile drive 😀

London unit costs are most expensive, looking at that table. Only cheaper for standing cost, which makes sense if you think about population density and resulting lower cost of providing service per household.

The cost of Public Charging for Company Car Drivers, Businesses etc will affect us all as that will add to the cost of living. Actually though i do not really care what those getting Tax Breaks to have a car and businesses that can claim back VAT are paying for their fuel be it electric or liquid fuel. More important to many who work and pay for their own transport, commuting etc and travelling is that they get paid, they are taxed but about 1/3, have money and then pay for their own cars and running them. From their income after tax they are spending money and paying VAT or Duty on lots of things because that keeps the economy going. The general public get services, NHS, Education etc etc. Some get 'Tax Credits' etc, many are not claiming back anything just paying, paying paying paying. Cars / Vans for Commercial Drivers and Business users are a tool of the trade and an overhead. Private users / owners are maybe more aware of the cost and value of travel because it comes out of their own pocket or bank account.

Surely changing the springs is just covering up the problem? excuse me if I’m wrong but shouldn’t you focus on a more balanced load than the level of the car?

Steam rollers are so yesterday, darling. So today was a day for the E-Type.

Day 4 with my 272 L&K. Love it.

Roottoot is correct with the tow bar prep as this allows a more open fan shroud and better engine cooling. The other thing to consider if its a tdi is possibly a seized water pump shroud as they also give similar symptoms.

Call from the dealer to say my car is finished & is on its way to the UK. Petrol vrs hatch ordered in October 21 🙂

Noise may not necessarily be connected to the smell. My candidate for noise would be a failing shear plate on the compressor drive hub or the splines on their way out, the former is more a clattering clacking sqealing and the latter a loud tinkling like breaking glass more apparent when pulled up beside a wall or shopfront that can reflect the noise. These auxiliary drive belts have such a large load transfer surface and efficient tensioner that they simply dont slip unless a n alternator, power steering or aircon pump has seized, in the latter case its the very substantial shear plate straps or rivets that let go before the belt could slip.

No no, ur English is good and understandable. We r talking the same thing. It's more likely I've misunderstood wats fitted from factory on the L&K models in ur market. It's great u guys have that done already. Meanwhile, the rest of us have to do it the hard way. This a link to a discussion we had here many years ago....

You'll certainly need it, I just wasn't sure whether favorit needed them, as it has a slightly different springs compared to Felicia. Pushing the spring a bit more didn't help? Did you put the cups in the right order? They are slightly different.

I don't think there is for that Software Train

Sounds just like the water pump thermostat sleeve issue. New pump time is my guess.

I'd be hunting round the aux belt run carefully with a mechanic's stethoscope if I were you, trying to locate the noise source. Guess the compressor has had it, and that probably means game over for the A\C. Lucky (?) summer's almost over.

I think the auxiliary belt is slipping, hence the smell, have you topped it up using one of those Fisher Price DIY kits from the land of the rising Yuan?

Lots of us might call new tyres Green. Fresh. They need run in and the newness off them. Like new cars brakes, engines, gearboxes,suspension. Those demonstrators getting 3,000 miles in 3 months on them to be sold as Ex management cars and fleet cars and lease cars might be driven hard from day one. Some might not suffer and some do. I believe in running in new tyres for a few hundred miles, as I do running in brake pads and discs.

Lots of thing that are 'Simply Clever' never happen, but they have Ice Scrappers in the Fuel Filler Flap that can freeze closed, but nice fillers for the windscreen wash.

@Carlston Thanks. So we do not know if they will often fit stiffer springs if the car has a factory fitted towbar. We are assuming they might, or may do, or have done, but no idea if they do this often.

The old mounts are just deformed, this is how they should look like. Did you need a spring compressor to remove them?

Is there a white tyre pressure label inside the fuel filler flap? You need about 0.2Bar (3psi) more than you would use for 195/65R15, 205/55R16, 225/45R17 size tyres. If you need to use more than 3Bar (44psi) make sure the tyres are XL eXtra Load.

thank you, i don't have access to any testing equipment at the moment unfortunately. I'd never checked SOC before we had this issue so i didn't know what normal reading should be. Hoping it stays at around 70% then but we will be checking after each trip. Do you think if it goes under 50% I'll need to get it to a garage before it doesn't start? Thank you

I remember seeing the Halfords guy plug in something just under and to to right of the steering wheel, does this suggest that he has re-coded the battery? Thanks again

Is the new battery EFB or AGM - is it the same type and Amp Hours rating as the old one?

Hello, as well as the probable issue of the new battery not being coded in to the cars system, be aware that the charging system will not normally allow the alternator to charge the battery to 100% - this is to allow capacity in the system for regenerative charging. 70-80% should be normal, probably lower on shorter trips. Keep an eye on the SOC. Do you have access to a good multimeter or alternator tester?

I removed the factory insulation pad only temporarily while installing the deadening mats. The CTK mats are specified for temperatures up to 150°C. It will never get remotely that hot behind the cover.

I get the same problem here on my desktop and IIRC that function has never produced a result.

The firmware will not just work, it checks firmware in head and will reject update. It is perhaps possible to change regions, but not simply. I do not wish to share update that will most likely brick your radio.

@Bap33 search on Ali by part code 3AD 947 411 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/393511-what-bulbs-are-fitted-to-the-s3-upgraded-bulb-recommendations/?do=findComment&comment=5379007 for your Sportline friend https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/393511-what-bulbs-are-fitted-to-the-s3-upgraded-bulb-recommendations/page/12/?tab=comments#comment-4994279

Maybe post a full autoscan? That suggests there are two errors but you've only shown one...

Happened me the other day after coming back from holidays as car was in airport car park. Like you I pulled nearing the red zone and waited about a min it went back to 90 and was perfect since. I’m thinking it was a build up of pressure that blew off

Did u retrofit rear door warning lights on urs? None of the Superbs come with rear door warning lights - they just have dummy reflectors. I had to retrofit the rear door lights in mine.

Possibly a problem with the controller which resides in the drivers side motor, not the passenger side.

I have a 1.5TSI e-tech 2022 model liftback, The increase in MPG over a standard 1.5TSI is not that great but what the e-tech does in my opinion is smooth out the DSG gearbox, making it a delight to drive (no low speed jerking). Fuel consumption is around 5.2 Litres per 100Km with = about 54-55MPG. Would not consider 1.0 Litre TSI as motor is working harder.

Yes, it just stopped blowing. All lights lit as normal. I took the glove box off as mine was a little tricky to get out. It is possible to swap without taking it off I believe. good luck.

Myself - I love Owatrol oil (Rust inhibitor) that sets to a kind of resin finish. Seems to handle road spray very well - and you can see through it afterwards to keep an eye on it. Inside sections/sills/door bottoms, bonnet front, boot edge I use Dinitrol. I wish I had done this to my previous 2003 Superb when younger that I bought in 2005 and sold in 2015 after putting a large commute mileage on it. The new owner(who I know) recently said it has just been scrapped due to a terminal MOT rust prognosis on the sills - If I'd done a bit of work a decade or so ago it'd still be going strong. Saying that he's had 7 years reliable motoring and put another 100k miles on it. I used to restore / preserve cars but when doing an awful / long commute for decades bodywork then seemed the least of my troubles. Now I've retired I've decided to try and make my 1.4tsi a keeper.

I can't say any better. 100 kg is way too much (at least, 10% above Skoda limit written in user's manual)... I think 70-80 kg would be much better to decrease your sagging!

Traction control is kinda included within your esp ,you dont have a seperate button

I got 28,000 miles out of my original tyres and changed them a bit early to have new ones for winter. That was last year, now have Falken on my 4x4 TDi Karoq.

I'd guess behind the fan speed switch, but your exact model was never sold in Europe so I can't be certain.

Which fuse do you mean? There appear to be 3 fuses associated with the fan control module, a 10 amp one in the cabin fusebox, position 16, a 30 amp blade fuse in the battery-top holder (position 3a) for slow speed fans and a 40 amp strip fuse (middle position of the five) for radiator fan full speed. Have you checked all three? Were the replacement fans you fitted new or used items? Have you checked that the connectors and their contacts which connect to the fan control module are unaffected by the spilt acid?

Trip out this morning. Looking good in the early sunshine!

Got mine on the 8/8, ordered end of June 2021. No price change but ordered from Motorfinity

No Ken, sep was referring to the hot/cold blend flap, hence cycling the heat control to exercise/unstick it. I would suggest using VCDS Lite to scan the HVAC module for fault codes. One relating to V68 temperature control flap motor would be confirmatory.

Probably means the firmware has become corrupt and needs reloading. @Rustynuts might be able to share some advice.