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@Msmaciejo what made you think that a thread about hardened bolts was a sensible place for your question?

REAL WORLD EVing. Who is it that is going to issue a Parking ticket at chargers that are not in areas covered by Parking Wardens. Parking camera companies can send notices where they have contracts. or there are Private contracted wardens. The are EV drivers just as bad for using charging bays to park yet not charge. There are people out their without the brains cells they were born with, or are just stupid and lazy. PS. Parking Attendants were posting Parking tickets in Angus at cars on chargers that were no longer charging, yet it was faulty chargers often cutting out and leaving the vehicle plugged in and no longer charging. Big clue, RED Light showing Charging Off. That could be someone pressing the emergency button. Quite common because the same Greedy Barsteward local business people would keep hogging chargers back in the days the charging was free. The thing was the Car Parking was free after Covid and the ticket machines were covered and the council had passed free parking. What really pees me off is PHEV,s abandoned for ages on a CCS charger when there are plenty AC,s they could be using. Too lazy to get their cable out and use it. Too stupid to not think they can use the AC Tethered lead.

Should get a parking ticket IMO.

don't buy stuff from AliExpress and expect it to b the same quality as OEM, especially lighting stuff.

On that basis I don't see a reason to worry.

People fake everything including filter, brake pads, even discs. Not only in China but in the UK / Manchester.

I bought them on allegro from a seller with a lot of reviews. 6 filters in total, 2 of each, saved around 60-70 euro. Here in Estonia just one cabin filter costs about 50...

Answering my own question for anyone else down the line. It's 3T0521101A.

Filled up with momentum today , price come down 6p since last visit, see how i get on

Try VAG bolts on ebay. Can be a bit more expensive but my local dealer is pretty hopeless and never have what I am looking for in stock or they cant be bothered looking. They may be able to help. Alasdair

Hi guys, I have an Amundsen/Bolero HW56 currently stuck on version 1668. Could someone kindly share a Google Drive/Mega link for a bridge update (like R1810L or R1896L) so I can finally jump to 1941? Thanks!

It was brought to the attention of the service advisor that there small bubbling around the fuel filler cap when the vehicle had its 11 year service, once the full service history including all the extended scope inspections had been carried out were confirmed, the dealership dealt with the issue in accordance with the Škoda TPI resulting in it being booked into a Škoda approved body shop for repair under the 12year anti perforation warranty

As I said, I stick 99 in because I can, and because it can't hurt. Given the miles that OP is doing, I'm not sure it's worth it! We ran previous cars on the cheapest stuff going, and all of them had no issues in the decades of ownership. They were pretty mixed too - all the way from a 1.4 to a 3.2. Maintenance will have a bigger impact on the longevity of the car than the fuel used.

Our garage likes to use OEM or equivalent, the ones fitted to ours are Delphi, who made the originals as well

We have never miss fuelled it, got about 110k on it. Yes had the recall work done once we got the car and realised it was still outstanding. Had a new dpf/cat about 3 years ago as there was a hole in the cat One of the mechanics at the garage said he has gone through a few injectors in his car (non VAG) in the last couple of years too

Has it ever been mis-fuelled with petrol, to your knowledge? How many miles done to date?

Lets hope there no haters that thinks throwing a brick at your EV is payback. PS. There is plunge pricing this afternoon of 15% at many of the Main Public Charging providers. I just received a email. 15% off some pretty expensive tariffs.

The new era has begun ! At 1130, BST, my Octopus charge rate dropped to minus 0.86 p per KWh. Later today, 1330 to 1500 it will be minus 1.3P per KWh. Currently got the 5 and the Scenic on wall-box chargers so drawing about 11 KWs which will be about a pound paid back to me for the 70 KWh I put in to the cars, portable home batteries and heating the water for bath time ! So not free but actually paid for taking electricity in these negative and virtual zero cost slots. Octopus did the switch from GO tariff to Agile in an hour or so. See how it plays out, we seem to be in an unusual spell of both very sunny and windy weather but we are still couple of months away from summer solstice and then 2 months hopefully of plenty more of the same until the darker days of October to February are upon us but with the amount and size of wind farms being connected of the east coast hopefully lots more times when UK has too much electricity and suppliers will give it away for nothing or pay me to take it. Next puzzle is what extra battery to get to hold the cheap / free lecky and how to put from batteries to car although the 5 is effectively a home battery on wheels with its V2l capability ?

Totally agree; to me its akin to parking in a disabled bay, totally selfish and oblivious to the fact that spot could be a virtual lifesaver to an EV driver.

Hi, The easiest way to do this is mentioned in the official manual. If you stand by the drivers door and use the keyfob to lock/unlock the car as normal you will notice that the red led inside the car near the door mirror will flash. When the car is fully alarmed the red led will continue to blink on/off every couple of seconds or so. This signifies the car inside/outside is fully alarmed as you would normally want to leave it. On a typical ferry trip (or on the back of a transporter!) the alarm will trigger as the car is rocked by waves etc. To disable this stand by the drivers door and use the keyfob to lock the car as normal but, now press the lock button again, twice within two seconds of locking, you will notice the red led blink on/off a few times then go off and remain so. This visually tells you the alarm will not trigger by gentle rocking (try it) on the ferry crossing but that external things like door opening etc is still operational. The twice within two seconds might need just a little practice to get the timings right. If the red led still blinks on/off try again.

I was kicking my self for not getting my deal fixed when 6.9 pence a kWh which would then have received the 3.1 pence off when the price came in. I did thankfully at least for for the 5.99 pence a kWh for 12 months. As far as the public charging possible increases time will tell but surely it must being going up. For now there is only one way i get free charging & that is at National Trust For Scotland chargers which is OK if there for a few hours and i can get a charger that is available and not blocked by a ICE vehicle. Only 7 kW charging but then i am paying £13.15 a month for my membership. I will be visiting Culzean Castle more often and staying for longer each visit. Just not buying their very very expensive food or drink when there.

Roomster and mk2 Fabia are electronically the same as mk1 Fabia until about February 2010. VCDS lite was/is able to talk to their diagnostics system over k-line. From March 2010 full VCDS is needed. However, full VCDS will work with all of the above. As mentioned though, to do an autoscan you have to select chassis type (5J) manually. Often, a lack of comms with a module suggests a blown fuse, and ABS has a few. If you wish, I can tell you which fuses to check (will need VIN, message me with it).

sorted, Thanks for the help. The switch wasn’t connected, fished the connector from behind the dash/glove box. Plugged in light works. No idea why it was disconnected, maybe come undone if glove box has been removed or accessing fuses, but hey it’s working now

So, it arrived today... First things first: cleaning it, probably replacing the display, and doing a data dump.

I have a Bolero radio but my fix for anything related to the radio is to remove the supply for a few seconds. Always works. The radio has two supplies - one permanent and one through the ignition. So with the ignition switched off remove the fuse for the permanent supply for 30 seconds and then put back in. In my car car the fuse in question is in the fusebox near the battery but look in your handbook to find your location. It may be shown as radio if your lucky.

Just in case you've not seen this in Skoda Classic Cars & Parts For Sale section. "Felicia spare unused pipes 6U0819361D And 6U0819371D Discovered during a shed tidy up, sadly the Skoda is long gone."

I have MIB III in a 2020 Superb iv with L&K trim. No issues with WhatsApp and Carplay in the 5 years I've had the car.

12 deg.C difference might not be especially significant, but still worth checking.

Idling an engine is pretty useless. Sure, it warms up some of the oil, but the uncirculated stuff is still sitting cold at the bottom. The gearbox, differential and everything else is also still stone cold. I normally turn the key, let the fuel pump prime, then turn the key. I'll then get some music up and sort myself out. In winter I let the revs drop, in the summer I tend to give it fifteen seconds or so and then slowly make my way out of the garage in reverse. By the time I've come out, shut the door and put the fob away, it's usually dropped below the cold start idle. In the winter I will let the engine revs drop before moving, or turning on the heating. That said, I also don't really use the throttle or go above 15mph until I get to the end of the road anyway. I don't really believe in letting the car warm up while stationary - things need to be moving and under some load IMHO. Modern engines don't need warming up in the traditional sense. As long as they're driven gently until they're warm, they'll be fine. Oil temperature is another story however - I won't put my foot down until I'm above 90 degrees. A GPF will regen during overruns. That means if you put your foot down on a slip road and are in third gear at 70mph, the car will hold that gear (and thus the revs and exhaust temp) for a few seconds, before shifting up. The car won't regen anywhere near the key being turned.

glad to see the guide is still being helpful in total now, i've removed my front bumper half a dozen times now, for various reasons. i agree - i don't understand how people r able to remove the upper or lower grilles without removing the front bumper entirely, given the number of clips and torx screws everywhere. yes its a hassle to get the bumper off, but once its off - it is so so much easier to access every clip and screw, without obstruction.

Finished off the front grill today. Bumper off job. Once again a big thanks to @JR RS for a brilliant how to guide. I was naive and thought because I don’t have front parking sensors that there wasn’t a plug to undo. Turns out the ambient air temperature is mounted on the front bumper so that has to be unplugged. There are some who report changing the front grill without taking the bumper off. I have no idea how it could possibly be achieved as even with the bumper off I had a few sweary moments trying to get clips undone! Really like the look now it’s all done! The badge is not quite the right white. I think it’s more candy white. But I begrudge paying £100 from kopacek for two colour matched badges. I may get another couple of cheap Ali ones and try painting them myself with touch up paint. Just the side view left to dechrome with wrap around the windows and the roof rails to install but SWMBO wants new taps fitted in the bathroom so those might have to wait a while!

Mine is 2016 MIB 2 but I get this from time to time. Hard reset phone and all is well. Unless it’s specifically a MIB3 problem

Go to this page on the Ross Tech site and put in each of your codes in turn where I have alredy entered your first code, and then click on the adjacent magifying glass symbol to start the search. It will give information on the code and bring up posts from other users with same problem. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Fault_Codes

I don’t think so. There are clear lenses on both the tailgate and rear quarter light clusters which I rather assumed are reversing lights. Surely rear fog lights are bright red?

What / which bubble ? Octopus, and the other energy suppliers, want to make some, Octopus, or lots as in others, profit and even dual and tri-rate tariffs may not do that if users charge at peak cost times. Hence Agile and Tracker is the direction way Octopus users are being encouraged. If one is adaptable one can have ones electricity almost for free, bar standing charge, if one is adaptable to charge the EVs, batteries when the electricity generation prices falls to near zero or below zero. Half hourly prices are released by Octopus for the next day at around 5 pm and as prices go negative today at 1130 I will pop out before lunch abd plug in a couple of the EVs and leave them plugged in, or programmed ro accept charge, might be PM nap time, to shut off at 1600 when price returns to a positive value. Just a case of moving with the times !