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Skoda used to be good honest cars, thedealers were good honest dealers, they were helpful, very helpful. Now I am not so sure. We have a Karoq and a Kamiq, both 22 plates. It's been mentioned before - the Kamiq, you have to control far too much via the touch screen, that for the ventilation is a massive and a potentially dangerous situation and the lag getting it to work or return to where you were times is far too long. The annual charge of £80 for updates and connected features is pathetic, the maps and speed information are wrong all over the place, satnav giving direction in contravention of a S22 - direction road sign - immediate 3 points. I raised a report about it once, their promise was a 7 day reply - well that was actually a month, then no further reply to my reply. Voice control - absolute joke! Of late I have noticed that when listening to DAB radio various stations repeatedly drop out. Now I have noticed this as I've been travelling the same routes in both our Karoq and our Kamiq - a totally inferior listening experience. I just wish I had noticed it in it's warranty. But I do have a Skoda service plan and an extended warranty. Today I rang the dealership and explained the issue, yes it is something they could look at but then burst the bubble by blabbing on about a possible charge, a not insignificant £130, I asked if the extended warranty would not cover it? We won't know until we look, was their response. So I could end up with a bill then...... Pathetic! Now I like my Karoq but I had a minor paint issue around the pseudo brake cooling vents in the front bumper, still in warranty then, sadly and from a different dealership just repeated fob-offs, perhaps it should have gone further but with way bigger life and family issues to manage - it is just a bit of plastic. Overall I am really disappointed and not feeling much love towards Skoda. I think I might cross the gap to Kia, for starters you get 7 years of updates included and give them a voice instruction and it responds immediately.

Hi everyone, I'm Admir, joining from Belgium. I've been browsing the forum for a while and decided to finally create an account. I enjoy working on my own car and troubleshooting issues step by step, so I'm looking forward to learning from the community and sharing experiences. See you around the threads!

I had this indie garage replace the Cambelt yesterday, the price went up to 575. Still a good price and no idea why it is less than others have experienced. They are all ex VAG mechanics. The breakdown of costs, 180 +vat for belt kit, 300 + vat for labour. I’m guessing about 60/hr for labour for a five hour job. I know it requires quite a bit of dismantling.

Coverage will be delivered as a collaboration between BBC Scotland Cymru Wales & Northern Ireland. There will be coverage of the New Rally Scotland in 2027. http://rallyscotland.org

Link activ 24h No warrenty, your own risk https://mega.nz/file/1n8VxQ6a#bufS0VbAB09EhnCV7DQD6BJ9JcqLGbfmcah2xFMLE08

I've been back to Caffyns and had a long chat with their warranty manager. He agrees what has happened and that it's rust from the inside and that it is covered by the warranty and has shown me Skoda's internal repair schedule for claims such as this which even stipulates wheel arch liners have to be retro fitted. However, he has also shown my the reply to the warranty claim which shows it was Skoda that rejected the claim and they gave zero reason so that's Skoda lying to me saying the dealership made the decision. He is now contacting them again. What an absolute shambles.

Ha! I'm planning a drive to Prague next month. Couldn't have picked a worse time for petrol prices... I wonder if they'll give me a discount for driving a Škoda?

I would like to know how many hours were spent plugged in for 300 charge cycles with them averaging 207 miles per charge cycle. Also what the average speed was from the time driving.

Wow, some journey....... A standard Volkswagen ID.Buzz has set the world record for the most countries visited in a continuous journey by an electric car – covering 61,992 miles across 92 countries in 445 days, including “more than 300” charging cycles. Technical inspection service TÜV Nord, which assessed the vehicle on its return, certified the battery state of health at almost 96 per cent. Last year, European Rally Champion, Miko Marczyk, managed 1,759 miles on one tank of diesel in a largely unmodified Skoda Superb – driven from Poland to Paris and back. Following this, a team in Colombia drove a Nissan Qashqai e-Power more than 1,200 miles in one hit, setting the record for the longest distance driven without refuelling or recharging in a non-plug-in hybrid. https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/volkswagen/id-buzz/370469/volkswagen-id-buzz-sets-massive-ev-distance-record

Hi i have the same problem on my skoda octavia 2025 tsi manual i always turn off start stop ,sometimes at traffic lights or say going slow to a speed hump the engine cuts out the skoda dealer says no fault code and pass it off and say they cant find anything.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/505532-memory-seats-no-longer-working/

Amazing, thanks. I'll do so this evening - no mega hurry on you to respond tho!

Would something like this help? Home | Reversee

Lar Every Skoda Fabia Mk4 Owner's Manual refers to there being an orange/yellow warning light for "Worn brake pads". The light looks like this and is shown in the "Indicator lights" section near the front of the Manual and in the "Brakes" section further on ("Brake Pads" in the Manual's index.) I believe it can be safely assumed from this that all Fabia Mk4s have a brake-pad wear-sensor that will trigger a warning light when the pads become unduly worn. I did check whether that particular warning light would appear on my 2024 Fabia SE L's instrument-cluster when I turned on the car's ignition. It did not, so I presume it only illuminates when worn pads are detected. (Your forum Profile suggests that your Fabia Colour Edition is a 2022 model, so I'm doubtful about the mention that "...it has done 2k miles..." in your enquiry. Perhaps you meant "...it has done 20k miles..."?)

Hi, I’m looking at getting a Skoda Peaq and I’m trying to decide between getting the Sportline with relax and pan roof option or the Edition with standard or relax option. I’m 6 foot five and my concern is that the Sportline seats will be less comfortable than the Edition, but I am not sure. Comfortable seats are my priority. If there is no disadvantage with the relax seats in the Sportline I would go for that. I would welcome any advice. This will be a salary sacrifice lease car for three years so I am happy to order it unseen, because I like Skodas but I have not been able to find a dealer that has the car in stock to sit in it.

I’ve ordered the edition with relax package. I need the lease ASAP for tax reasons so took a gamble. Don’t know when it’s coming, will feedback!

Hi Admir, I've just joined too. Good luck, I've got a 2023 Karog S line diesel. What are you driving? Sam

The Leon needed a little TLC; it wasn't running smoothly anymore, especially at idle. So, I pulled out the spark plugs and coils to check the combustion pattern... It turned out cylinder 2 looked like it had been wet at some point. I installed four new NGK plugs and coils, and now it runs silky smooth again.

https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/emobility/even-opening-the-door-is-an-experience-says-the-designer-of-the-peaq-suv/ Škoda StoryboardŠkoda Epiq Will Win You Over in Just a Few Seconds - Škod...Compact, smart, confident and stylish. The new all-electric Škoda Epiq offers a host of features that will quickly win you over. Get to know it in the video.

In my posting above perhaps I should have made it clearer that the light-units I arrowed as being LEDs did not have LED BULBS in them when I said: LEDs are used in the two number-plate light-units and (on the right side of the hatch) in the fog=light/reversing-light unit. The light-unit on the left side of the hatch is a dummy and has no LEDs in it. Left-hand-drive models will have a LED fog=light/reversing-light unit on the left side of the hatch and the light-unit on the right side of the hatch will be a dummy. with no LEDs in it. On the car's 'hatch', only one of the fog-light/reversing-light units is operative (the right unit of RHD cars or the left unit of LHD cars). The fog-light and reversing-light outputs come from small individual LEDs. (There are four separate LEDs in the reversing light-unit and these are visible if you shine a torch into the underside of the reversing-light's reflector). The units are 'sealed' and neither the fog-light nor the reversing -light can be upgraded by fitting higher-output LED bulbs. I agree that the reversing-light's output is poor and I'd like a reversing-light on both sides of the hatch - but that's the way it is. LED bulbs could be fitted in the outer rear light-units, but this would be illegal in the UK. It's also near certain that replacing any of the 3 halogen bulbs in each light-unit with a LED-bulb equivalent would trigger a dashboard 'light failure' warning. I've thought about replacing the boot-light W5W halogen bulb with a LED equivalent (as I did with my Hyundai i20) as the boot-light gets pretty hot, but I probably shan't bother. For spare rear-light bulbs, I managed to obtain a pair of OSRAM "ULTRA LIFE" W5W and P21W bulbs reasonably cheaply, but finding a good quality inexpensive WY16W bulb has proved trickier and I'll probably opt for a Halfords bulb if I'm passing one of their branches.

Many thanks both. I too wondered if this may be the case, so I deleted my phone's bluetooth connection but it still wouldn't connect. As a further insight, I found that the phone's bluetooth is v5.2; so it still may be, despite the head unit quoting that it will support v4.1 and above, related to the version of bluetooth in the MP3 player.

Naturally, using a decent automotive test light, you check the fuse while it is installed to see if it is in good condition.

Leuchte 12 NL LB45 Leuchte 13 NL RB5

Just take a test light and check all the installed fuses—both in the interior and in the engine bay.

Thanks Imart and Pete, I googled GPM after seeing it on Pete's pic and came up with the GPM Nidec group too. I think GPM were bought out, which may explain the change in manufacturing location. I'm also not sure if they sell replacements, or were/are supplying direct to the manufacturer on new cars only. Imart have you been using Gates in the past and how have their reliability been? There's a lot of opinions about impeller material, plastic or aluminium. But I think if the more common failures are the internal seal and subsequent leak through the pinhole drain, or the bearings, then the impeller may not be the problem if the car is having regular coolant changes with the specified coolant. My INA kit should arrive today, and Ill post pics of it shortly. Thanks.

Once fooled by Autodoc too. Never ordered again. Neverminds if I pay a bit more as long as there's no bad surprise.

Look to see if there's a wire coming from any of the inner brake pads.

OK, forget the PJ53 part, that is just code to identify the the manufacturer, who does not seem to be around any more. The import part of the number is GS1J which is 1A diode with a reverse voltage withstand of 600V.. That means that any diode with that code of GS1J will be a direct replacement. The concerning thing is why did it explode in the first place, it might well do the same again if you replace it. From experience on a VW Passat, this module is located in a compartment in the front passenger footwell, and they can suffer from moisture ingress as the floor pan rusts away. So it might be the moisture that caused it to explode. The only place I can see that has any is an eBay seller, link to it follows, Price is £3.55 and postage is £2.75. If you can locate either a GS1K (800V) or a GS1M (1,000V) then they would also be a suitable replacement. GS1J/SMA DIODE GEN PURPOSE 600V 1A SMA GS1J-SMA 'UK COMPANY SINCE 1983 NIKKO' | eBay UK

it was, but not any more. go for INA, Gates ... In the original OE (Original Equipment) box under the catalog number 03C145299Q, there is an automatic tensioner (spanner) which for the Volkswagen Group (VAG) first installation is usually produced by Gates or Litens (which closely cooperates with the INA / Schaeffler groups). this pump on photo is produced by NIDEC GPM, Germany producer for OE VAG engines.. now produced in Jiaxing, Zhejiang, China.

Some photos of a genuine water pump, not sure if they help. Plastic impeller. Possibly from 2010 (410)?

Hi everyone, Quick update: problem solved! The clunk was caused by a slight movement of the front subframe. I replaced all six subframe mounting bolts with new ones and tightened them to the correct specification. Since then, the clunk has completely disappeared, including during braking, acceleration, reversing and direction changes. I’ve now driven the car in different conditions and everything is quiet and stable. So if you have a similar single clunk when the load changes direction, check the subframe mounting/bolts before replacing expensive parts.

Good advice from Evolution13. I found the seat in my Roomster Scout comfortable, but I wished I had tried the seat in my Roomster SE before I bought it as it near crippled me. Similar story when I bought a Yeti. The demonstrator was a Monte Carlo in which I found the seat comfortable. But I find the seat in my Yeti SE far less comfortable. Lesson learnt, I will never buy another car without at least sitting in the exact model that I intend to purchase.

The Service Agent asked me to try E5. The car is going soon and we will not be getting another Škoda or VAG car so their handling of this issue, and others, has cost them a customer.

@RobDunford Maybe ask them again then, because at that price people could have a couple of days away & B&B and have their cam belt replaced and be quids in.

I have cleared the fault codes and repeated the scan which did not bring up any faults. I have driven the car and all seems to be working fine at the moment. I will rescan tomorrow to see if any removed faults have reappeared and report back here.

I hear that; last weekend - wrong LCAs, last minute realisation that Superpro front droplinks were still too long for lowered suspension so had to get new ones. 3 hours on one rear droplink because it just would not fit in the lower arm - had to jack up the other side to bring the tip of the arb into position, fit the end in the arb and persuade the base into the lower arm. Car fought me and @OccyVRS on everything and the final straw was me not getting the front pendulum bolt lined up in the DSG casing and butchering the thread. That now needs to be helicoiled 🤦🏻‍♂️ May also be that I’ve been too ham-fisted and either damaged a wheel speed sensor (or hopefully just dislodged a plug) which is causing some of the Christmas tree effect currently on the dashboard. Appreciate it’s not a competition, just securing my position on the bandwagon.