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Hello guys, I am Nic from France. I have a bright red Skoda Scala. I always joke to my girlfriend that "in the fog, it looks like a Ferrari...". Thankfully she loves me for more than my sense of humour as I have other qualities (I look like Brad Pitt... in the fog). Anyway, nice to meet you all, nice day and safe travels!

Brake fluid used to be first @ 2 years then each 2. About 2010 changed to first @ 3 years then each 2. Since the VW Emissions Scandal things changed to First @ 2 years then every 2 years. Customers are the Goose that keep laying Golden Eggs.

That'll be one person in this thread... 🤣

Carry one of these in the boot

Surely it doesn't really matter either way if you treat zero as zero... Which is what most sensible people do

Nothing wrong with 0 % / Zero miles range meaning 0% left and Zero miles possible IMO. Actually 'Simply Clever' to save people from acting stupidly and pushing on regardless because they read or watched somebody telling them how far you can go beyond. #'One step beyond' Madness.

Little Donkey meets the basic criteria, and tbh an EV is what really suits my needs now.

The system can trigger unexpectedly and can be quite sensitive.Two examples from my own experience / one annoying and one superb. As I exit my driveway, the path dips toward the road causing the front of the Car to drop. At any speed over a few mph it will see the road as a danger and Brake. Last year I was waiting at a Mini Roundabout for an opportunity to go straight across. There was car crossing from my right and a car waiting on the road from the left. The car on the right passed me and there was no further traffic so I looked over at the car on the other side. It started to move , there were no indicators to show that it was turning right so I assumed that it was going straight on. So I started to slowly move straight ahead. Then the Car suddenly did a u turn and crossed in front of my Car. The autonomous brake sensed it and slammed on the anchors and we stopped dead.There was no contact between the cars but it was close. The Car in front then shot off down the road.All caught on my Dashcam. I spoke to a Road Traffic Officer some days later and he said as described it was a 'Baiting' technique for crash for cash , he said that if it wasn't for the fact that I was going so slow (4mph on the dashcam) and the Braking that I would be involved in an accident that would have been deemed to be my fault. Automatic Emergency Braking does have its uses.

Model Y only did 19 miles in the same test

I still think it is foolish to allow your battery to get that low in the first place just to avoid spashing a little cash on public charging to give that extra margin of safety. Just the other day there was an incident on a local road that resulted in a 32 mile diversion so if caught in that you would have got stuck.

Finally got a roll of 35mm film developed. My mate's Corsa made an excellent subject.

You're being bent over. For some bizarre reason Skoda's pricing changes by vehicle age. At my local dealer, which seems mid-priced, a fluid change on a 2-year-old car costs £65. The same fluid change on a 4-year-old car costs £91. So a 40% premium for exactly the same job on exactly the same car. Find yourself an indy to do it.

The dealer I use was so mortified by me refusing the 2yr brake fluid change that they did it anyway FOC. They also replaced the a/c compressor under warranty as it was noisy, so I didn;t get asked about having it regassed. The new one is just as noisy mechanically but doesn't screech (which I think may have just been the gas being low), and the one on the courtesy car (same car as ours) was noisy too. Our Ateca and Kamiq have silent a/c. Anyway, it's going in next week for its 4yr service and I was contacted today and asked about having them done for the bargain price of £199. Gulp. On it's own they said they'd do the brake fluid for £80 instead of the normal £100. Where on earth do these price come from - £100 to change the brake fluid seems insane! It also really hacks me off that the car has All In, and yet All In is anything but!

Not true - all versions of the Mk3.5 vRS came with 18” Gemini wheels as standard. Both 230ps and 245ps variants also had 340mm front brakes - the difference is that the 245 has 310mm vented rear, rather than 272mm solid. The easiest way to tell a 230 vs a 245 is to take a look at the rear brakes. The interior stitching on the 230 is also white, whereas the 245 is red - this is probably the most useful when looking at an advert. You can also check the door sticker for the engine code. 230ps models will be CHHA or DKTA, whereas 245ps will be DLBA, DHGA or DKTB. The DKTA and DKTB variants are Euro 6 with the GPF. You’ll find people claiming that the 245 has black exhaust tips - this isn’t true. They were, technically, meant to, but a lot of them didn’t. The 230 was phased out around 2018, but build dates and dealer stock means some do exist with later registrations. You want to get the 245. The extra power is irrelevant, along with the rear brakes - but you want it for the LSD and DQ381. Nothing wrong with the 250, but the 7-speed ratios are just that bit more friendly. The LSD, frankly, makes the car what it is. You’ll find that the prices are pretty much the same - whether it’s a 230, 245, 245 Challenge or whatever. The base build spec of both cars was the same - that’s how my 2020 car has ACC, the digi dash and £600 worth of black paint on the spoiler, but manual folding mirrors and no heated seats. If you want to do some research on the 230 versus the 245, you can compare the GTI to the GTI PP. It’s the same thing. There are lots and lots of posts about this - just use the search function.

I got a call from our dealer yesterday noting that I'll be in next week and would I like to "touch base" with the salesguy who sold us our car? I'll remind him they promised to swap our Approved Used Karoq for a new one at a verbally agreed price that went out of the window when the new car arrived. It's my wife's car really and she hasn't gelled with the Karoq, and the I find the the Skoda dealer service staff a right arsy bunch. We were spoiled by how good the Tiguan, and (unusually) the VW dealer was that we had before.

Hey All, Had a kid a few years ago and fell into the crossover SUV trap everybody seems to fall into and got myself a CX-5. Nothing wrong with the car but my god it was boring to drive and the 2.0 skyactiv-G is a bit gutless so decided it was time for a change as it just wasn't for me. I've always loved the idea of a sporty estate and after a bit of weighing up a few options I settled on a 2014 Octavia VRS Estate in racing blue with 27,000 miles! I'm also not a huge fan of a lot of the newer "safety" features in modern cars so I wanted somthing that was new enough it wouldn't be rotting but old enough that it wouldn't bing and bong at me everytime I want to go around a parked car. Anyway I picked the car up today and I already love it, compared to the wallowy CX-5 it drives amazingly and I'm very impressed with the power. Currently looking at a few mods for it as I'm all excited, also I'll try and get some photos of it up once I've given it a good clean.

Had the tortoise / turtle symbol but not the secondary effect of it actually reducing the power in any of my Renault EVs, tested by giving it full power even with the turtle did not get to the stage it actually subtracting from the HP /KWs available. Despite going a dozen miles past 0% and warning flashed up but no reduction but I did charge up shortly after this ie mile or two. Mini does show you on screen it is backing off from the full 184 HP and it does that well before 0% SoC. Still got loads of power but I gather Mini, or Great Wall Motor, car does not go a long way past )% like the Renaults do. Dacias Spring also seems to go quite a way past 0% too !

Sounds like a cooling fan(s) controller issue - how long did they run for, I'm just asking that as it sounds like them running did not flatten the battery - could this also be due to an electric cooling pump failure which is allowing a local area to be at a high temperature, and that area is a sensor where part of the fan controller gets triggered from?

As far as I'm aware, you can't unlock SFD2 with OBD 11 just yet. They're meant to be working on it, but I haven't heard anything about it going live

Hello, welcome to the forum. Engine starting, then stopping within a short time sounds like an engine immobiliser issue to me - possibly reinforced by the 'Safe' being displayed on the instrument cluster. Has immobiliser been checked?

Wow, very little distance past 0% SoC which seems to be the norm for Geely and other Chinese cars. Think i prefer the Renault and TESLA fatter margins that Bjorn Nyland has tested and shown.

Rather than waiting here is a sneak peak just for you Still have the Superb 2 and Fab vRS🤦🏽

Getting back on my feet (HA!) now... did the initial injury at the start of April. It'd be a long day though. Instead we're taking our cars out around Dumfries & Galloway this year. Maybe next year we'll come down. Looking forward to any photos you get though!

That’s a shame Ryan I was hoping you could see my Superb 280. Plus I see you might not be fully fit ? I appreciate it’s a proper trek for you

That is exactly what I got when taking it to the dealer, "we can take the dash out to investigate but you may have more noise after". I just live with it now https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/532730-interior-fan-motor-noise/#findComment-5945954 They did give me an extended warranty of 2 years in that area though so I can go back if it gets worse

Super El Nino. One of these killed 50M it is reckoned due to crop failures etc. Very much thinking of getting a mobile heat pump unit as the thought of temps hitting going on for 40C is horrible. In other news i gather oil inventories are continuing to get drawn down and replacement stock not arriving at a level which has been warned that prices must rise to further reduce demand so it is in balance with supply. Will this further push the move to EVs where this is not an issue ?

Brilliant, I didn't even see that they were the same part. Thanks for your time with this, I really appreciate it

Mine is the same year as yours, but my fan certainly does not run all the time the a/c is on. Take the fuse for the fan out or unplug the fan and see if there is any difference in sound.

Added note for radio antenna.

Haven’t been out much, been busy digging out about 100 tonnes of concrete and installing soakaways. Though managed to get to the causeway. Schoolboy error with the stabilisation settings (didn’t change them from Oulton Park) so the images weren’t great. A few camera phone shots as well.

I must buck up with the brake luid, never changed it in any car, all new, in 63 years, at least 3 were in the family for over 20 years, had to renew a front brake cylinder in a 1980 Formel E Golf and NCT mandated two front flexible hoses in a 9N Polo, both at around 15 years old.

Has the battery been ever changed? It may cause a lot of DTC if the average voltage gets to low, when it starts aging...

^ Wildly optimistic.

The antenna is in the rear side windows. You should have a sharks fin on the roof for the sat nav.

Damn, google is good sometimes https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497627-oil-sensor-fault-octavia-vrs-2019/

I believe that if you register a VIN at skoda-parts.com you can subsequently be offered only parts that suit that VIN. Haven't tried it myself, but it sounds handy if it works. Give it a try. Typically the info on the boot sticker only gives rear brake PR code, not front.

That's why I love Skoda-Parts, you can add your VIN to the Garage and it greys out all non compatible components so you know at least the correct parts size or part number, and where there are Specific side components such as the interior blower motor it clearly states in red that it is either for LHD or RHD

I find Skoda-Parts.com is the best for looking up OEM part numbers and verifying sizes especially with brake discs. I then buy from Auto-Doc but living in Ireland means I don't have any additional charges, probably would be best buying from euro car parts in the UK, I do occasionally buy from Skoda-Parts.com but only for OEM parts as I'm not paying dealer prices for parts

Opening the bonnet can cancel the warning for 62 miles / 100 km.

Where is the oil level when the engine is at normal operating temp and stopped a few minutes , 4 or 5. Compared to when all in the sump and cold. The owners manual way is a hot check for every engine but 1. The 1.2 44k engine with 2.8 litre capacity.

Opening the hood will temporarily cancel the low oil warning even if nothing is added. You say oil level 'seems fine' but whereabouts between the dipstick marks is it? If the warnings persists while oil level is fully at the max. level mark. it is probably a faulty sensor. Good practice to regularly check all fluid levels manually - not rely on warning indicators.

Thank you, Ords - that looks like it might be very useful ! If it enables me to change the filter, I will make a video of my own and post it on here, so that other owners of my model may get the benefit.

This is for a 1.4l, but might be of help to you.

The end of a very hot day 🥵

At the Res earlier................

I had an issue with the Drivers seat belt retract in my 2020 ('19-'20 model?) Scala. Skoda dealer quoted E400 to replace the rewind - That was not happening. To figure the problem I pulled the BPillar apart - hopefully this is easy to follow with the attached pics. There is no airbag risk with this, but do be careful. Ahead of this, slide the seat forward as far as you can. 1. Use a pointed tool to prise the Airbag badge - You will lose the tip off a Stanley knife if you lever, do this with care so as not to scratch the trim. 2. Use a magnetised Torx to remove the bolt to avoid dropping into the pillar. I used an old Hard drive magnet. Easy does it, think 'Operation'. 3. Grip the bottom of the trim at either side reaching under the door seal. Pull firmly. There are 2 metal clips into the car body and 2 plastic clips into the lower trim. 4. With the lower part out, ensuring the adjust mechanism is disengaged, pull the trim down. You now have access to the seat belt height adjust. Refitting is a reversal... Insert upper trim tongues. Ensure you align the adjust mechanism (pictured). Ensure 2 plastic and 2 metal clips are aligned, press firmly into place. Reinsert Torx (don't forget Magnet!) Replace Airbag badge. My issue was unresolved, I need to have a go again. The issue I have is the pivot - it swivels forward but does not sit back which inhibits retract. Hopefully this is useful to someone.

The Cygnets were paddling flat out to keep up with Mum! 1070898~2.mp4 And a few others we spotted......... 1070802~3.mp4

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