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Hello, Here are a few thoughts after 60,000 kilometres, for anyone thinking of buying an Octavia 4. I bought a second-hand car (Octavia 4 estate, TDI 150 hp (110 kW), DSG). It had almost all the features I was looking for. The car had clocked up almost 60,000 kilometres over four years when I bought it. It’s safe and economical to drive (3.7 l/100 at 110 km/h on the motorway and in low/medium mountain terrain, 4.2 at 120). I like the car for its practical features and its comfort. In short, the best car I’ve ever owned. I drive between 20,000 and 30,000 km a year. I did, however, experience a few niggles: - the infotainment system was completely buggy in 1810, until I applied the updates found on this forum; - airbag and oil sensors (fault codes cleared at the dealership); - DSG gearbox making a cracking noise when shifting to P in very hot weather (resolved with recall 37VQ); - battery died after 6 months (it was 4 years old); - A ‘POP’ sound near the wing mirror pillar, causing an error that resolves itself on the next start-up; - A dried-up water droplet just in front of the front-facing camera. The dried residue sometimes triggers an error when the sun shines on it, blocking the adaptive cruise control: an error that resolves itself on the next start-up; - the boot does not open automatically when activated with the key (a problem that is apparently well-known here). The front tyres (Michelin CC2) were replaced at 60,000 km; I plan to replace the rear ones at around 110–120,000 km. So, despite these minor issues, it’s a reliable model, and economical on fuel and tyres.

Thank you @Alidocious for you kinfd post and welcome to the group of my happy customers

Same on mine. Rear ride height was slightly off for ages. Only noticed when I broke a spring and discovered two different makes. One original and the other ??? If the yellow one is original it will probably be weaker. Alasdair

No, I don't think so. It is not during a DPF regeneration. The temperature can also rise by another one or two bars and then drop again. This happens even when there is no DPF regeneration. No, I don't think so. It is not during a DPF regeneration. The temperature can also rise by another one or two bars and then drop again. This happens even when there is no DPF regeneration.

Thank you Alasdair I’ve taken the wheels off again today and the n/s (which is the lower) has a yellow paint mark, the o/s has a tag with part number, so to me I think in the past the incorrect spring has been fitted. So think I’ll start with changing both springs (shows how observant I’ve been for the last 3 years 🤦🏻‍♂️) many thanks for all your help.

No, saying maybe go narrower and more sidewall. Maybe go All Season Tyres. What tyres are fitted? @Carlston is the fount of knowledge.

At that rate of use, I'd be getting just a little worried about having a runaway!

The reason I am considering a replacement is the oil consumption, its not horrendous on it compared to some but its more than I would like. So a low mileage engine seems an option, also considering just getting mine fully rebuilt, but it does all hinge on the head, if its cracked then the cost of a new head and rebuild would probably be too much, if the heads warped / not cracked then a rebuild is a very real option. Its becoming a "while im in there" sort of situation!

That may be the way to go depending on how much they want for the engine. You will probably need vcds to code it etc. You could always take the head off anyway off the old one first as it may be just the gasket. If its cracked either take head of other engine or as you said drop complete engine in. Depending on how many miles the car is done maybe factor in a clutch change at same time depending on condition and if its an internal slave do that as well. On a temp basis you could chuck a bottle of steelhead in and see if it improves. Alasdair

Those instructions appear to be for AC (air conditioning). The OP's issue is with ACC (adaptive cruise control)...

I have been doing some searching and have come across a replacement complete engine from a car with 47k on it, seriously considering it as an option, might be easier to just throw a new lump in it at this point.

Track rod end new tyre , alloy chipped , coilovers fine

Thats working out at roughly 1litre per 1000km/650miles!!. At that rate if you are burning it you would definitley have blue grey smoke and I doubt your DPF or CAT would be working anymore or about to fail. Check its not collecting on undertray or perhaps being dumped into intercooler and also make sure the correct oil is being used at service Alasdair

@BeaverRS Re the Recall or TPI /TSB or ''Service Action '37VQ' on a DQ381 DSG might interest many that might never of heard about this. Were you notified of a RECALL as the Registered Keeper, or did you find out when reporting an Issue. ie A Skoda Secret Service 'Recall Action'. Need to know and owners need not be told! EDIT PS. What country are you in?

Hi, ive not sorted the issue. But im 99% sure the heater matrix is to blame. Looking at the diagram above, there is a secondary pump for the heaters, which turns on when you turn the blowers on. I suspect its holding pressure between the pump and non return valve, as the pump has no fluid to draw through, due to the blocked matrix. It then releases the pressure once the car has cooled down. At least thats how I understand it. There is a way around it, it seems when the air con is running, the heater pump will not run. At least ive only used air con for the past few weeks and lost zero coolant.

I do not like the fact that when set it automatically sets to the posted speed limit. I do not like the fact that when it sees a new limit sign, despite me setting it lower i resets to the signed limit. I do not like the fact that it sees limit signs on slip roads and tends to vigorously apply brakes. I do not like the poor comfort when it charges at bends, then jams on the brakes and still goes round at an uncomfortable speed.

Thank you for that. I am going to order the device with the Pro Pack.

Oh a certain domestic situation doesn’t allow for that! The one I’m looking at has a fast cat, GPF removal but an additional silencer box to keep sounds down. Not cheap though.

Here's 'without' and 'with' photos. 👍 A simple matter of removing one plug (by sliding the red locking pins 'outwards' and then attaching both the PB connectors to re-make the circuit.

The plug ( item 2 ) can be seen here…

I have just purchased a 2018 Fabia Estate which has been fitted with 16" Skoda alloy wheels and 215/45/16 tyres by a previous owner. I find the ride a bit harsh and was considering fitting 215/60/16 tyres which are not so low profile. Has anyone fitted this size of tyres and maybe comment on them. I understand the standard fitment on this model was 185/60/15 but would I prefer not to swap to 15" wheels if possible due to the expense.

My skoda octavia 2.0L diesel has high oil consumption. It has no leaks and rocker cover replaced so that includes PCV valve replaced Uses approx10 or 12 litres between services. Engine has good power. Is the rings an issue here

Approx 12000km between services

I went down a big pothole and nearly wrote it off , and the dq200 recon box started to leak very slowly again, Had two more repairs, so ive just bought brand new dq200 for £2.6k from skoda preston, will try see if the other one can be fixed, so at least two years warranty on new one.. cars had a tough life.. but still going..