StevesTruck

Might be a bit out of your way, but these are good at what they do https://lincolncarkeyman.co.uk/

I'd always try to pick a problem apart before throwing parts at it. Actually, this is confusing, are you both talking about the same fault on the same car?

If it's a diesel, it's highly unlikely to be an immobiliser fault. Most likely the fuel pump relay (feel if it's clicking, if not, tap it with something metal), the wire to the stop valve, or the stop valve itself (whip it out, remove the plunger). D's need the stop valve, SDI's don't really need it, so you can pretty much just leave it with the plunger out if you're not discerning.

If the caddy jack is a dogleg one it should be fine* to use on the skoda. I'd just get a brace off any random scrap VAG car. Maybe a wheel and tyre too if there's space. *When I say "fine" I mean no less dodgy AF as they are to use on the Caddy.

Personally, I: Build the shoes up in the vice, biggest spring down to the smallest spring. Yank the handbrake cable out of the spring it's in with a pair of pliers,push the spring back and hold it with an old blunt set of side cutters. Hook the cable on the arm Hang the shoes on the back plate (you might need to take the bottom spring off to get it over the hub. Brake spring hooks are amazing tools and dirt cheap.

Which lights? I'd suspect a battery issue, battery connection issue, damaged maxi fuse or a clocks fault personally.

Removed the errrr... racking

If I've already told you why he's called Shaun, keep it to yourself, otherwise, pipe up when you get it! I'm not normally into modern vehicles, but work were selling this, and, well, shiny things. It's like they say about Volvo's, everyone ends up in one sooner or later

The 1.6TDI has issues with it's injectors, at that age, I'd want to see some evidence it's had a set, or factor in needing one or two in the next couple of years.

Just the wheel off, maybe unplug the sensor if you want to, then just manipulate the cable and look for splits opening up.

Carefully check the flexible cables that go down to the ABS sensor for splits, they can hide on the inside of the curves in the cable. It might not be the cause, but it's free to have a look. What did the fault codes say?

That's a weird one, it looks like the flexi's wrong for the caliper if anything. There's no chance the flexi's upside down is there? I'm wondering if the banjo's thicker on one side than the other.

I did mine a couple of years ago and don't recall them being particularly bad. I was most likely working on axle stands in the yard. I probably jacked the car up and gave them a spray with whatever was in the shed the night before and left it to soak. I think you can get to the bottom end of the bolt with a can with a straw on to spray it up - that's probably well worthwhile. I've got it in my head that I used a long spline bit on an extension so I could knock it all the way into the head of the bolt, then had the bar behind the spring and shock, rather than in front of it, as per the picture. I'm not totally sure on that though, like I say, it wasn't particularly memorable, so it can't have been that bad. I normally use a 600mm breaker bar and a set of cheap impact-rated spline bits for that sort of job. I've got a feeling I didn't use the impact gun because I couldn't get it in the space available. When I'm trying to get a spline or stardrive off, I normally give them a yank in the wrong direction first to break the rust seal without damaging the bits of the head I'm going to rely on to loosen it. Applying constant force doesn't break fixing loose, you need to shock them. Don't know if any of that's any help, I'm just sat in my armchair

I always find they come out easier if the engine's warm - guessing you've dropped the oil though, so probably a bit late for captain hindsight. I normally just use my little 10.8v cordless impact driver and don't have a problem.

Probably just the fuel and air in the can expanding with the temperature. The cans are designed to be airtight and expand and contract, so it's nothing to worry about.

Looks like they've drawn on the Pontiac Aztek for design cues.

Tempest Scrambler. I have the Roadster version of the same bike, it's a lovely simple thing. Great for going for a potter down the lanes

If you're dropping the subframe, dab some paint about to give you something to line it back up to.

Glad it worked for you, but I had one of theirs fail within a year, they sold me a new one, but didn't refund the one I returned. The new one also failed in a year. This was a nside on a 6L Ibiza pd130, so probably the same part.

What head they have on top depends a bit what shock absorbers are on there, be it standard or aftermarket. To be fair, I'm a big fan of spraying them up, then sticking the impact gun on the nut - it generally undoes them straight away.

Have a look at your alternator belt tensioner when the engine's running. If it's skipping all over the place, it's generally a sign you need a new alternator pulley.

No, I normally find Bilstein stuff is cheaper through partsinmotion or ebay.

Do these have a servo (it's been about 30 years since I worked on one, I can't even remember which end the fuel tank's in))? Sounds more like vacuum escaping to me. *Waits for someone to go full Sheldon Cooper on me because I said "Vacuum Escaping", which is a physical impossibility

Fallopian tube

There's no way on earth it takes 4 hours to do a pair of rod ends. I'm not a mechanic. I use a the cheapest blowtorch toolstation sell and a couple of adjustable spanners I got from a carboot sale 20 years ago, and I can free one in 15 minutes. Take it somewhere else, they're trying to blag you. If you want some money out of you just tell them nice try buttercup, but you can't B*****it a B******iter. 😅