KenONeill

Well, I paid GB£350 for a full belt kit and water pump on a 1.9TDi (where not changing the water pump is a false economy because your expected life for the pump is about 1.5x that of the belt, and the belt needs changing if you have to replace the pump) at an independent specialist (labour rate about half what a Skoda dealer would charge).

Yes, but if it does then there's a fundamental QC problem at the foundry.

My calculator says, that on UK service schedule, the belt is past due. If it's like other FWD engines I've seen you'll need a trolley jack or a hoist because you have to remove an engine mount to change the timing belt. It may be safer to get an independent specialist to do this. I honestly can't think of much you've not covered on a manual transmission car.

And neither of them are allowed to appear on Tv whilst doing this!

Edit is a time expiring option on the ellipsis "..." top right of your post. No idea about this engine though.

Agreed. I had this issue with a Citroen Xantia, caused by a throttle damper. The solution was to remove said damper.

To answer your questions, Yes, No, and Have you seen the price of the ABS ECU?

Well, my usual technique is to apply the footbrake as hard as I can, then pull the handbrake on hard 2 or 3 times. After this, the handbrake travel should be shorter. The other possibility is that the rear brake pads need replaced.

No idea, beyond that my 2002 Octavia has an "off" button for the ASR, so it may be possible to switch it off in software.

Does it have anti-squeal shim fitted? Did you Copaslip the backplates when reassembling? (I figure this sometimes works for no obvious reason)

Other thought; could the throttle pedal be playing up? This sounds like a symptom my car had for several months, ending with the throttle non-functional, limp mode and an EMS warning light.

Makes me think of a low battery or a duff ABS sensor.

I can't see why the rain sensing function wouldn't do anything from slowest intermittent through to frenetic continual depending on weather; Certainly that's what I'd want and expect.

Erm why? Multiple continuous speeds from wipers have been a thing since the early 1980s.

OK, the tyre size is literally written on the side of the tyres: It will be something like 205/55 R 16 84V (probably not that exact string but the format is correct). Similarly, if you have a standard Skoda alloy, the size will be case into the wheel; say 6.5x16ET42 5x112. The ET number and bolt fitting, 5x115, are important to get right to have a wheel that fits. Someone else will know the exact fitment if you give them the model details.

Where is the extra voltage coming from? I can see solid state controllers over-running the current, and hence wattage, of a bulb. Still, taking the 127% of nominal wattage, I would guess that you'll shorten the bulb life by 1.6x, so it will only last 60% of the original life time.

I can't see how that even can work, short of running the alternator every time you switch on main and/or auxiliary headlights.

Yes. read the fault codes rather than look for psychics on the internet.

How were we supposed to tell that from the engine code?

They don't, or shouldn't, contain grease.

Also @JuiCCCe - Having air con doesn't stop you adjusting the fan speed manually, although it will disable Climatronic's ability to adjust the fan speed.

After you change an adjustable component in the suspension, you need to check the suspension geometry. This is a specialist job to get right. Look for a garage or fast fit place near you that has a Hunter rig.

What have you missed? Well, there's no mention of setting up the geometry after replacing the arms.

This is why you need a mapper to do a DPFectomy.

Your choice of method, but my favourite is to renew the oil filter.