KenONeill

Also @DieselMonte Well. in the absence of Ryan's dad, "stick a ****ing Weber on it"!

They should also check for chipped pistons and bent conrods when the head's off and before rebuilding the head.

I think there's someone in Essex. Or further out in East Anglia there's Emerald. Mods I'd do brakes first, then a spring kit or both ARBs, then the remap. I don't see much benefit from adding flappy paddles to the standard TIP shift.

Looks likely. Dunno, but the cam belt is certainly damaged. Look beside the lock sector in your second photo above.

These people wanted harder springs in the first place; the wire gauge and number of coils that a spring has are what determines its poundage ("supportiveness").

That could be the cause of your drain.

Don't know; does that TDi maybe have air conditioning? That needs extra pulleys.

"mk1 Popular 957"

Yes, absolutely they should replace the valves and this is why I disagree about the "advantages" of direct TPMS.

No; you do have to check the tyre pressures yourself so you know they're right; 2 otherwise good tyre fitters I know always set 30PSI all round, irrespective of car and tyre type and size. Then you also need to reset the TPMS so it knows you have new tyres and what the pressures actually are.

Maybe needs an Italian tune up?

Curious how your references don't discuss the chemical makeup of Ceratec, or why it is apparently more refractory.

Those are a tungsten/soda glass specification, not a quartz/iodine specification as you presume. It should be legal to replace them with LED units of equivalent lumens, but that will cause you problems with the bulb failure monitoring.

Go for it; the worst part is lining up the new discs with the backplates/hubs, and getting your head around putting Copaslip on the disc backing plates but not the friction surfaces.

That's not just you. I think there's an AliExpress device that remembers the last settings for Lane Enforce and FrontNanny, which seems to be what you want.

That's not the wheels but the brake discs. If you don't have axle stands get at least 2 with pins, not screw threads, to adjust the height before going any further. Now, if you are correct about the bolts being rusted in place, there are a number of things you can do. With weight on wheels one or more of 1 - 3 below:- Try tightening them up (yes I typed that right) to break the rust lock between the bolts and hubs. Use a proper dismantling lubricant such as Plus Gas (not Water Dispersant 40) to help break the rust lock. Undo them 1 turn, no more. Having tried 1 - 3 above, drive forward or backwards a few feet, no more than 6 feet, which will almost definitely break the lock and give the feel and sound of loose wheels. If 4 worked, jack the corner up, put it on an axle stand and remove that wheel. Remember that it will be on your head, literally, if the car's not supported at the next step. Use a wire brush and/or emery paper, and/or a hammer and cold chisel to remove rust from the disc centre and lip until happy or bored. Replace the wheel(s) removed using the supplied wheel brace. You don't need any more torque than that brace supplies.

But can you take a modern hypercar like a king?

Remove the connectors from that plug, then spin the engine on the starter; the compression action sometimes frees a stuck plug. I don't know which code it was but some of them do clear themselves after a number of starts and/or a certain running time.

It's not a latching warning light. Without knowing which one it is and/or the associated fault codes that's as much as we can say.

Well, a RARB by itself will make the car more oversteery. Search "Inverted Briskodan Club" for further evidence.

Then they can't charge more unless they actually do additional unquoted work, because you have a written contract that they will do the job for a fixed price. If you've paid the higher price, I suggest raising a Small Claims action.

I've known people who've worn clutches out even faster, also mostly doing urban driving as you clearly do.

If I'm reading the text correctly, it also looks as if the LHR tyre has been run underinflated at some point. I'd suggest new rear tyres, check pressures, and then perform a proper Hunter alignment, including replacing any suggested components.

isn't worth the paper it's written on.

In which case, IME you should just be able to tighten up nuts, bolts or set screws (as applicable) near the leak. I've done this with cork and with rubber rocker cover gaskets.