KenONeill

Can't help, but I see why you want better condition mudflaps given how cherry the body is.

Is the switch for the interior handle lock still connected? Check this as well if you need to remove the inner door skin or @AnnoyingPentium is wrong about the interior handle.

IIRC a real 1600E would have had a pair of auxiliary lights. Correction inline.

Well yes; OTOH the Chamois was much better than the Laylow M*n*.

That was as much about the number of lumens you didn't get from a Lucas unit as (un)reliability.

Only if you think a 45W/40W sealed beam tungsten candle was a "reasonable headlight". My Dad bought a Cortina with them, and after a wet trip down Loch Lomond, replaced them with Wipac Quadoptic 60W/55W halogens.

Do you mean "driver's manual"? If so you may be able to download a soft copy from Skoda. Otherwise, if you want a workshop manual, usual recommendation of an hour on Erwin.

Yes, if the LHR wheel is at one speed and the other 3 are all at the same different speed.

Is the oil level staying constant?

Which tells us 2 things:- The EML is on There should be one or more relevant fault codes that you haven't stated. Have you even had them read?

Toyota Starlet (rwd) school car, and an Opel Ascona 1.9 SR Berlina (Father's car for extra practice).

As others, that looks more like a normal corrosion product (white), and the best way to trace an oil leak is to clean the area and observe for fresh oil.

You try buying a new car that doesn't have at least one of "randomly second guess you over gear selection", "randomly do an emergency stop because a crisp packet blew in front of you", "randomly steer you into a parked car", "randomly decide you're trying to undertake the car to your left", "try to force you into the middle of a lane when you're trying to avoid ruts and/or potholes"... fitted.

Or you could try reading the fault codes? This lot look like an ABS sensor fault, but that doesn't have to mean a front wheel or something in the engine bay.

If your multimeter is right then your alternator is overcharging.

If, and only if, you actually want a whole litre.

They may change the paint code; get the chassis number, and order from your dealership.

Still sounds a lot like plug insulation breakdown (probably on #2) to me.

Agreed; this sounds like a coil or spark plug breakdown under load, and you've already replaced at least one coil pack.

Meanwhile, back at the point, Skoda Yeti vRS 4x4.

I am still getting Edit action available, was a Freedom member, but then I am also a Grand Master (but not I note now or next going to be a Renegade Master).

Edit is on the ellipsis "..." symbol top right of the post, for the first hour. Beyond that, I'd agree with @Urrell that it sounds like water freezing in a heated fuel line.

Looks way better than all these chavtastic systems with 5 dummy tailpipes and a fartbox on the one that's actually attached to the engine.

No idea beyond that you're approaching this modification right.

Why!? The V5 proves nothing except the following:- Date of first regimentation Colour Date of transfer to current keeper Date of last amendment by current keeper.