KenONeill

Agreed; as to choice of arrangement, I chose the first version to come up on Google!

Yes it was. The most spectacular case I think I can remember seeing was in the "Scrappy Races" Here's a pointer to the relevant episode.

The trouble is that a proper decoke involves removing the cylinder head so that you can literally chip carbon build up off the combustion chamber, piston crowns, inlet valves and ports. I'm not aware of a product that will clean these without risking leaving you with one or more valves stuck ajar, or scratched bores. As to other theories, they mostly revolved around pre-ignition of one form or another.

Pet peeve sorry, but 1/76 scale is 00 (1/76 ground scale with an underscale 16.5mm track gauge, HO is 1/87 with the correct scale 16.5mm track gauge.

Well, that's a comprehensive history thank you. It actually led to my discarding my original theory, then formulating and discarding several more, before deciding that the most likely cause is that the car needs a proper decoke. Points in your history leading to this:- Compression in a 200_000 km engine is higher than the ex-works range for a new engine. Your description indicates that you have coke inside the combustion chambers, which could cause hot spots.

See other posts between here and yours, with the note that issues are more common on the LHS because it's nearer the kerb/gutter on an RHD car, and also because the standard SMIC is on the RHS and tends to dry out the RH arch (based on actual observation of actual cars, not theorising about heat soak).

What sort of year? I've driven a couple of 2008 car and a 2018, and the later car has way better steering, mostly because it doesn't take a change in lock to wake up the PAS.

You mean this ?

Cool. I'm pleased you appreciate the point that I want information not biased by my pre-existing theory.

OK, it doesn't sound like the symptoms match what I'd wondered; track rod end wear. Still, I only have one angle to work from. Is there any sign, any sign at all, of damage to the rubber boot part of the rod end?

When you do, try to describe the noise, and the circumstances in which it occurs. I have a theory, but I need more information and don't want to say anything that might affect your description.

Well, I can hear a clunk, but when someone bangs a steering arm off a lower wishbone I'd expect to. Is there any sign of uneven front tyre wear, probably on one edge or the other relative to the middle area, and on either or both front tyres?

Hint - it will have registration plates fitted.

I thought this was obvious.

This is my other issue with EUrokneecap; every time they change their standard, they downgrade everything that's already been tested by 1 star.

... due to issues with a mounting bracket.

Can't help directly, but as someone with a stiff knee I can say that I find getting in and out of an actual car car easier than getting in and out of an SUV.

Technically yes, but you'd need new gearbox and rear suspension, and I think a new floor pan scuttle back...

They should, but it's a non-issue since they're not compulsory once the vehicle's been registered.

I don't know Irish law in detail, but UK Sale of Goods Act would apply after 2 days (up to 30 IIRC) and make all faults commercial vendor's responsibility.

And, well, if you occasionally do a full bore merge onto an NSL dual carriageway you're sorted...

Been AFK; that sounds like burning engine oil.

SO what colour is it? The colour is potentially diagnostic.

You didn't think to mention that it's a modified car!?

Ah, that will be because you don't have one. You do have a MAF sensor, between the air filter and the compressor side of the turbo.