Murdockman

Had the same fault code with my mates car same year and model and we found it was the sensor that was in the exhaust pipe just before the flexi pipe on the front exhaust pipe, we found that there were 3 of them in total and we just unplugged each one at a time to see what happened we had different codes from the others but the same from this one I think it was around £50 to buy, might be worth trying first

Update to your question about the EGR if you look on you tube there's a video on there how to clean your EGR most are show VW's but some motors are the same as yours

On my old MK2 management light would come on and car would go into limp home mode, sometimes if you left the car for an hour or so it would be ok, managed to get it plugged in when management light was on and code came out as "air intake leak" tried all hoses as suggested but nothing wrong there, finally found out that the air pressure switch on the turbo intercooler rad was faulty, a bit fiddly to change but did the job for me, a genuine Skoda part is around £70 but I bought a pattern part for £18 which worked ok until we changed the car 2 years later, I think there is a video on you tube for the 1.6TDI on how to change this intercooler pressure switch switch

Are the pedals wet or underneath ? if it's running down over the pedals it can be the seal across the top of the scuttle panel not seated correctly or as mentioned the wiring loom into the car dislodged or cracked It has also been know for the door drain holes in the bottom of the door to be blocked or as I had before the plastic panel seal under the drivers door card that's been cut due to a problem in the door and not replaced or stuck back in place after repairing, this allows water to leak inside the car into the foot wells even though the door seal looks and is perfect I found this out after replacing the door seal and water still leaked in, then after speaking to a friend who came across this issue on the passenger side resealed the plastic cover and water stopped coming in this also worked for me so try the other suggestions by all means but don't rule this out

Sometimes this issue can be the slide pins not moving smoothly or could be badly worn but as Phil886 suggests it could be the discs, the only way really to be sure is to borrow a dial gauge and try and see if there's any run out in the discs , I have also know this issue with loose wheel nuts /worn hub bearing/ loose carrier bolts loose caliper retaining bolts all can be checked before spending big money

Before you waste a vast amount of money firstly go down the road of upgrading the front discs and pads, clean and re-grease the slide pins and check caliper piston covers for damage/rust etc, change the rear wheel cylinders and swop the rear brake shoes for bonded bosch shoes. To change calipers etc you will need to change hubs, carriers, discs, pads brake hoses etc, and on the rear new brake hubs carriers and the calipers plus handbrake cables and hoses and ABS sensors will be needed a lot of money needed here to do this mod even if using used parts not worth the extra bit of braking you will gain plus all the hassle of not trusting the rear caliper handbrake issues compared to rear drum brake

Are we talking about bonnet soundproof or the sump tray? bonnet padding is held by small round black push on clips to remove these you have to bend them away from bonnet with a small screwdriver and wiggle them off, the sump tray has a sponge type padding with a cloth type finish and is glued in place, the engine top cover is also sponge under the top and that's also stuck in place, I came across a hard black sponge about 30mm thick in a hardware shop that was used for packing and cut it to shape and used a small daps of unibond waterproof no nails to hold in place , still on car in place after 4 years car gone now so can't send pic's, under bonnet soundproof has to be replaced

My old mk2 started doing this sort of noise after about 3 years old and it was the wishbone mounting rubbers failing, had them done with Skoda original bushes but used a recommended garage as Skoda wanted £250 a side, bushes were around £15 each but sadly only lasted another 3 years before needing replacing again, this time though garage told me that the solid bushes from a Seat Coupra would last much longer at a small trade off with a a bit more vibration in higher gears but did not notice that but seemed a bit firmer on suspension to me, felt more connected to the road oh they did cost more around £30 each but lasted until car was kindly written off by uninsured driver in 2019 and car had just passed MOT Another squeaking issue when going over bumps slowly could be a cracked front spring right at the top where it joins the cup where it joins the wing this normally happens after cold weather as well , this has also happened to me , i did the pair myself and spring was cracked on the last ring of the spring in the holder under wing but this issue usually throws up a clunk as well when turning wheels when parking so might not be this but worth checking

Sadly some MK2's also suffer with this water issue, firstly check the drain holes at the bottom of the doors it's like a little split with a small gap in the middle usually 2 are present on each door as if these are blocked you will get water in O Ours started after 18 months old, it was the rear door plastic covering under the trim panel that had been cut after we took the car back after 17 months old to have the rear window motor replaced, they did that ok but did not replace the plastic seal that's stuck in place, took it back 3 times with water leaking in footwell and they blamed everything else.... door seal bottom trim hatch seal rear lights etc got so fed up with excuses i had a look myself when it was raining so removed the rear panel myself and noticed that the water was running down in the door by window seals (which is normal) and instead of running out through drain holes it was dripping from edge of the door below seal into the rear footwell , I just bought some waterproof duct tape and sealed up cut and went over where it was still stuck on the bottom and around the edges, left it with panel off for a few days and never had any water in again so cured it in one go +

It's one of two things, first and most likely the change rods on the box and swivel knuckle need lubricating, the best thing to use is a silicone based spray as most other releasing sprays contain oil which can swell the rubber bushes and ruin them, the second issue could be a weak pressure plate in the clutch or clutch plate but you can check this by putting handbrake on blocking front wheels starting the car and put the car in 5th gear give it about 2500 rpm and try to pull off, if pressure plate and clutch are fine the car will stall straight away, if there is an issue with clutch or pressure plate the car with drag and take a few seconds to stall, but mostly it's the rods try this first before the clutch hope this helps

Mine packed in on my MK2 but the sound bleeper was in the centre pillar passenger side and control unit on my estate was behind the right rear boot panel, as you may have the same issue my sensors were crapped and at £96 each it's a bit steep to replace the 4 of them, don't know if you will have the same problem but the dealers told me the right rear sensor had gone but in fact it was the left rear sensor almost as if the system is round the wrong way when showing faults Bought a system with 4 sensors that were silver and not far away from the car colour, the hardest part was fitting the sensors as the estate bumper had to e removed and the old sensor cut away from the bumper on the rear, they seem to be glued or moulded into the bracket on the bumper, if you go careful you can get the old ones out by drilling centre and cutting away plastic to give you some thing to fit the new sensors to, i found the 2 tube resin glue quick dry ideal for fixing the new sensors in place, i just picked up the live from reversing light to power sensors and had to earth each one to the metal bodywork inside boot area managed to get sounder in the back panel near to rear of the car and used mounting tape to stick it there and although not the same as original it's not to bad does the job, sorry can't send any pics car was written off in 2019 and we now have a MK3 estate

Before you spend any money on a compact jump starter here are a few notes that I found out for myself, being a dad can you fix this for the kids i bought one of these DPpower starters 1200a back in 2019, they work ok just if your battery is a bit flat and struggles to turn car over, if it needs a few cranks over these are not suitable for any sort of cranking speed, the cables that connect to the battery are not the best they get hot and one cable in the clamp had to be soldered back into clamp most of these units have problems with the cables and after paying nearly £100 for the one i had i was a bit disappointed, mostly at trying to get a good contact on the car that needed starting, I also found after using the unit 4 or 5 times through out the year it really struggles to work now and has been just used as a torch and phone backup battery, I landed up buying a Lucas 25ah battery for £45 and my old battery jump starter works great again, should have gone down this road first and saved myself around £50

Timing chain fitted to these models mileage is fine just make sure to change oil and filter at regular, stops tensioner sticking and causing damage to engine

Yes seems to be a regular fault, in august 2019 our mk2 was written off by a kind un-insured driver but as we had the car from 2 years old 2010, . new in 2008, un-clipped the door connection plug on both front doors and packed them both with silicone grease before clipping them back in place never had any issues, now have a 2019 new mk3 and again will be looking at the same sort of action when the car is just over 2 years old

Hi can't remember the regs for this but they have to be a certain height and distance in from the end of the wing/car to be legal please check first as you can save yourself a lot of hassle later if they are fitted correctly, hope it works out looks good

Just a query I have a 2019 MK3 1.0TSI 110ps Fabia estate with 17 inch alloy rims tyre size is 215/40/17 the rims look like the Anita type alloy but I can only seem find these in 16 inch size, I have found a 17 inch alloy which looks very similar but finish is silver matt finish but the finish on ours is silver with a glossy finish like the car which is brilliant silver metallic, tried Skoda website but does not give any answers for this question any body have any info about this thanks folks much appreciated

Not exactly the same issue but had funny things happening on my MKII with speedo and rev counter shooting round to max every time headlights were turned on, after a few minutes of driving would go back to normal, no faults showing when plugged into laptop even when turning headlights on. Found out to be a loose dashboard fixing bolt right hand side of the steering wheel just about where the roof pillar joins the dash , got at it by removing side fuse cover and fuse carrier then could see 2 bolts and there was an earth connected to the one bolt tried to tighten these and one of them with the earth turned twice, had to plug fuses carrier back in before trying but seemed to work ok for me don't know if this will help you but worth an hours work to see, good luck

Had this issue many years ago and it was the clutch master cylinder had failed internally, it's a real pain of a job to change if you are big person with large hands, as most of the work has to be done wedged in the footwell try to get at it, I gave up and a small mate of mine managed to undo cylinder and pipe, pedal was also a pain to get off out of the way Skoda must have a special tool for pressing the pins in together on the pedal pivot to get it off out of the way otherwise you need 3 hands, did not have any fluid loss just no clutch, might be a lucky one and clevis pin /arm missing bolt but not usually that lucky

Before you spend big bucks check the connections on air filter from turbo system one of the most common faults is the seal is not seated correctly and this happens many times after a service has been done, turbo pressure leaks out, no noise but if pressure is down slightly engine management picks this up and sends a warning things are not quite right, might be other issues as mentioned by others quite true but check these first

There's 2 types of cabin filter, one paper and one carbon both are easy to change I found the carbon filters last a bit better but do cost a bit more, as described in previous post by Unbanpanzer easy to change

As JR said it's the linkage connections, buy some PTE spray and lubricate the linkage and cable ends on the gear change remote should sort this issue out

Yes did mine just before a kind person wrote my car off last year August time, the bearings come complete in the hub ,so you have to replace the whole hub, I had ABS type hubs with drums and purchased them from Skoda parts.com they were around £120 for the pair plus £15 delivery and came with new caps and centre nut . You can get them cheaper but quality is an issue with these and some do not come with new nuts or caps. It's up to you really, changing them is not hard but you will need to change them in pairs ,you will change the one side then the other will go costing you more again ,time delivery etc, you will need to free the ABS pickup and move it back just in case you damage it when removing the hub, more cost you do not need, can't remember the size of the bolt but was a torx head type you might need a puller to release the hub if it's stuck on the stub axle but i did manage to tap the hub and keep turning it around and it freed up from the stub and I wiggled if off , I did clean the stub up and put a smear of grease on it before pushing the new hub back on and then tighten nut up while still rotating the hub, don't forget to put the ABS pickup back in place once hub is back and fully tightened up ,if you have rear discs it's the same but disc has to be removed as so the drum

I have a mk3 fabia 1.0 tsi but my friend has a mk2 1.4 and he came across this same issue, he changed his oil to fully synth and used 0w -30w and it is a bit noisy when cold but seems ok once warmed up

The tyres will not fit direct to rims, but earlier 14 inch rims will be ok, but check wheel studs config I'm not 100% sure but i thought the 14 inch rims were 4 stud holes and the 15 inch were 5 stud holes, you also have to consider by fitting smaller rims it will effect your gearing and fuel usage

Just to add a comment, had a MK2 1.9 TDI for 12 years and started to have issues with the turbo sticking fault, cleaned turbo and EGR and replaced cat converter, all was well but then found that other issues like corrosion on parts worn bushes etc became an issue every MOT, did the work myself but still a fair bit of cash to to fork out every year, then last year went to drive to Bristol for a shopping trip only to find that private diesel cars were banned from city centre, ok used park and ride not an issue but if more towns and cites start to do this getting a petrol might be money well spent now, electric is the answer but need to improve vastly.