Murdockman

Take a look at Breezy_pete's post it will help you a lot, I to suffered the same issue as you mentioned and it was a combination of the door / car connection and also the felt type guide runners in the window frame, I used a silicone spray in the runners don't use WD40 which is good but will swell these guides, after spraying both sides of the runner on both doors the window up and down improved but as was mentioned the real problem was the connection I removed the plug used a degreaser then WD40 dried it off then used a commercial type vaseline on the connections this seemed to sort this out... forgot to say I found it easier to remove the door open stay to allow the door to open right up it was esier to get at the plug connection but be careful it's not windy as door can fold into your wing without this stay attatched I used an old cushion taped to the door as I was on my own doing this job but well worth it as the windows never played up again

Best stuff I used was the number plate sticky pads cut them into the shape needed give the badge a good clean with alcahol and the same with the tailgate if it's a sunny day no problem if it's a cool one just warm the tailgate before sticking badge on with a hair dryng NOTE get it correct as you will break the badge trying to get it off if wrong

Water pump is located under the cam belt cover on the left looking from the front of the car, if you decide to do the job yourself you will need to change the timing belt and pulleys at the same time, you need to replace coolant with he correct VW anti-freeze also it's not a job for thr faint hearted as you will also need a few locking tools to do this job a very good trolley jack and axle stands it is possable but not that easy, I did one for a friend a few years ago but borrowed the locking tools the cam belt kit was around £100 and the pump was also £75, some new replacement pumps have an alloy impeller so just need the normal coolant but if you get a plastic impeller model pump you need the correct VW coolant as normal coolant can damage the pump It took me a good weekend to complete this job as I had never done one before but would have been quicker next time but never did one again, good luck whatever you decide

Had same issue with my 1.9 TDI fixed it with a straight connection water washer plastic pipe glued it in with ardaldite then cut off excess plastic inside the unit , I did get a replacement from ebay think it cost around £35 , but it didn't cure the limp home mode, garage said it was the EGR but I bypassed this buy blocking the rubber pipe up but made no difference other than a slight over run when shutting the car off, it turned out in the end to be a faulty vac unit on the turbo that opens up the turbo when you need more power in the higher gears, it was ok in the first 3 gears but then if you were going up a slight hill in 4th and put your foot down it would throw out a engine management light and go into limp mode, if you stopped and re started it would be ok again untill you did this sort of thing again, I replaced the vac unit with a new one from a oem parts seller and i think it was around £70 but well worth it as the car was back to full power again

Many thanks for the information very helpful, don't think I'll be changing this part unless it plays up ,rather a lot to just replace a filter!!, Skoda dealer supplied me with the prior information and prices so I think I'll steer clear of thier parts deptment if Ineed anything in future

The car is a 2019 1.0 TSI 110 BHP estate vin TMBKR6NJ5KZ088254 and engine code DKRC, really confusing information given from dealers again looks like they are not sure what's what, car is ok just carry out service myself and could not understand where the filter might be unless it's in the tank ? cannot find it anywhere under the car or bonnet or near the rear by fuel tank, can see the fuel lines and they seem to go to up over the tank, there's 2 pipes one black and one off white both have 90 elbow clip type connectors as they go up in front of the tank ,without stripping the arch liner and fuel filler out I can't really see what's what, nothing is listed for this model apart from the alloy type can/filter but god knows where it's located cannot see it anywhere so assume they never fitted one

Just a sugestion my friend had a noise but not knocking when turning on ing from around the rear of the steering wheel, we went under the hood and removed fuse 7 in the small box by the battery, this is the electro pump fuse for the steering the noise stopped so we assumed that the pump was faulty and he took it in to get the pump replaced, worth a try to see if it's steering pump related

Just a update for this question it's now 2023 and only this week I finally found out that the fuel filter on this car is there but it's a carbon type fuel filter the part number is 6C0201804A and main dealers only order on a special and I was quoted arund £150 just for the part plus VAT, there are a few used on the bay but I also found out they are a fit for life unit and unless there's a fuel issue or a leak they are not a service replacement, it's located at the reardrivers side on a right hand drive model just behind the rear wheel and is bolted to tank frame via a 10mm head bolt and a screw bolt in the wheel arch so won't be changing this untill it plays up looks hard to get at the fuel pipe fittings and seems like it comes out via the rear wheel arch side as the top of the unit looks to big to just slide down

You can put the stands at the end of the beam tube or under the shock thick plate whatever is easier for you, I bought 2 axle stand pads that fit where the jacking ponts are so you have plenty of room under the car to work , you can jack the car up under the end of the beam or under the damper plate to get the stand in, my old MK2 had rear drums and i found Bosch brake shoes a lot cheaper than the genuine Skoda ones but some times if you searh around you can purchase a kit from some online dealers that gives you the shoes cylindrs ans springs in a set,I found it a lot easier to take the rear hub off to do the brakes but you can manage to do it with the hub on bu it's a bit of a fiddle, be careful when removing the hub as the ABS sensor is right behind the hub and if you damage this no ABS some people loosen the abs sensor and just pull itback a bit to make sure but you don't have too just go careful

To be honest you will probably not get the car high enough with the car jack to get stands under the rear wishbone anyway, if you cannot get hold of a trolley jack the only way is to use the old method and use good strong wooden short planks to support the weight under the rear wishbone or get the wheel off and use a thick plank across the top of the wheel and use this under the botom damper mount /wishbone, I purchased a trolley jack and 2 stands with rubber pads that go under the jacking points to support the car and jack the rear up under the wishbone bought the jack and stands from SGS and they have paid for themselveles many tmes doing work on the car and being safe

We bought our Fabia 1.0 TSI se used but with ony 1500 miles from a dealer, reg is a 19 plate but in July of that yearwe purchased the car in early 2020, since then it has beenserviced at main dealers untill the first MOT when I took over the service shedule, last year pads and discs were ok but this year pads were down and discs rusty so purchased good quality pads and discs . when doing the rear pads there were no shim in the carrier and none supplided with the pads but had new caliper holding bolts,most cars that I have worked on have these shims fitted but none on this car just straight metal pad to carrie fitting with the spring on top of the pad, no one has worked on the car only serviced by dealers in that time and never any brake work carrided out is this correct fitting for this model or should the shoms have been fitted from new, I'm not a numty diyer have always beed around cars and sorted many peoples problems out that most garages have given up on but this one seems strange any comments if anyone has come across this no shim rear brake pad ? just a pont the rear of the pads have a peel off patch that then leaves a sticky surface that sticks to the back of the carrier and the front face of the piston I've got no rattle or issues when running or when braking and handbrake works fine just wondered what this was about

You need a replacement wiper arm, prise out rubber/plastic bung and spray with wd40 wait a few mins then undo the holding nut using a socket ,you might be able to rock the arm back and forth to realease it from the spline but if it's not going you need to purchase a wiper arm puller from the Bay around £10 to get it off, arms are quite expensive too around £40-£50 each new

Why not spend say £30 and buy a code reader go online and post the code fault, there's loads of people out there willing to help as we are all in the same boat these days so little cash but some dealers ignore this and charge what they think they can get away with, ask around someone near might have a code reader and might help you out worth a try

This is a normal situation, the rubber can go weak but usually results in a slight knocking noise when turning the wheel, the essive wear on the 2 front tyres could be a few problems as in worn bushes track rod ends etc, it would pay you to check all bushes including the drop links for wear and if nothing is found take it o a decent garage when you fit 2 new tyres and have it tracked, don't take it now as the tyre wear will put the tracking out and will change again when new tyres are fitted

Yes there is a difference sadly a lot of sellers on the bay don't know which way is up, the front doors are the same but estate ones are longer and have like an extended glass panel, I did get a replacement rear door for my MKII estate from a car breakers, sorry can't remember who they were but e-mailed them and they sent me a mail when one came in they sent a few photo's and even had the same paint code that I supplied with the original mail, it cost me £80 at the time plus delivery of £35 it came well wrapped in bubble but no glass, had to take glass out of mine and fit to this door some will also remove window winder lock etc , I rang them and did a small deal to leave the winder door handle and door lock on the door for an extra £20, like yourself I looked at loads on the bay but always seemed a bit to much damage or to much money for a different colour door, If I remenber the breakers I will post

Check the drop arm links these are know to cause problems, also had creaking from a failing lower arm bush looked ok in housing but when removed the steel insert was completley broken from the rubber surround, could try a spray on these and see if it goes away for now, also had a broken spring right at the top of the mount cracked and this caused a creak, the only other one I have come accross is the plastic sleeve inside the front spring that protects the damper rod this was rubbing the rod and making a funny sound over bumps, you could also spray the anti=roll bar mounts they sometimes dry out

Have tried everything that has been suggested and it does look like the remote has some how decided to stay with one press all doors unlock, well i'm not going to buy a new remote just because of this, just a note the other remote WILL change between single and all unlock so it does point to the remote, thanks to nta16 for thier help it was worth a try I'll jst live with this it's the spare anyway

Car has the paper back type user guide and is indeed a 2018 build I have always changed the batteries on both remotes every year to avoid any issues, always the same on both remotes after changing the batteries, one press and car locks, one press and drivers door opens and fuel cap, 2 resses and all doors open , I only noticed this other remote opening all the doors etc on 1 prees unlock the other day, so i changed the battery as i thought it might be that but no it's doing this all the time, I took battery out left for 1 hour pressed all the buttons on the remote opened car with the key got in tried to start the car and it could not find the key, held it near the colomn and heard a loud beep key now allowed car to start shut car off got out locked the doors waited 5 mins went back still the same one press all doors unlock, main key we use changed the battery in that one did the same again open door with the key etc locked car came back but this remote works as it should 1 press drivers door opens and fuel cap 2nd press all doors open, both remotes when you hold down the unlock open all the windows and again if you hold down the lock button on both all windows close as i said not a major issue just a strange problem that i though some one else had come across

no normal pesss the button to enter /lock etc but have the push button to start car keyless start

Hi all have a question that is making my brain hurt, our Mk3 Fabia 2019 1.0 TSI se was only 5 months old when we purchased it and had the original remotes with the car, have replaced batteries every year as a matter of service, I have noticed now the remote we use every day works as it should one press unlock drivers door two presses and all doors open etc, tha spare remote which does get used say once a week has now changed to one press and all doors hatch fuel flap open rather strange, I have taken battery out left the remote for 2-3 hours put a new battery back in but it's still the same, not a major issue as you can get in and car starts and runs ok no issue, contacted dealers and they said I need a relacement remote around £300 but I'm not doing that just wondered had anyone come across this issue before and what causes it or how to re-set the remote back to original working system, ps buttons on remote are not stuck down and are clean inside and all other functions work on both remotes windows open on long press etc, thanks in advance

Yes you can can change the shoes without taking the hub off or the wheel cylinder you need to remove bottom spring and then split the top shoes and leave the handbrake shoe until last, a spring removal tool is handy to have and a good set of pliers too, it's a bit of a fiddle putting it back on but can be done, it's a lot easier with the hub removed as you can build the shoes ready and just put the handbrake cable in the lever and then put the set on the backplate and hold in place with the hold down cups and springs but its a personal prerance, mine is to remove the hub makes ife a lt easier .

Gear linkage is seized, most people never evn lubricate this part as when you don't use it for a while this happens,you need to get under the bonnet and look at the right side of the engine looking from the front then you will see the linkage coming from near the bulkhead to the gear box, then you see a small swivel like joint this part needs some lubrication, try and use a rubber friendly spray or oil give it a spray wait a bit then try again keep trying but don't force it as you will alter the settiing and never get the correct gears again until it's re-set from scratch

Are you really sure it's coming from the screen, because if the water is in the footwell mostly it comes from a broken or ripped plastic cover that's under the door card, also have know the drain holes in the bottom of the door to be blocked with rust rubbish etc thus not allowing the water that runs down the inside of the door to get out and this usually goes into the car, have known the seal around the window to leak due to a rust issue on the body wrk but very rare once used an alloy type tape used for sealing front of gas fires to hearth and put it around the side of screen and across the front of the screen for a few days to see if this stopped it but did not, on one occasion found the wiper gromet had perished and this was the cause of the leak

Most common cause the sliding caliper don't slide anymore you will have to remove the slide pins clean and re=grease them (silicn or rubber based grease) replace the pads and the discs that will sort this out

HI,don't know if this will help,needed a front panel for my mk3 fabia all the ebay ones were wrong colour scratched etc, went to skokaparts.com and sent a request about the panel,had to send vin number etc but they got back to me with the correct panel, it did cost £91 for the part and delivery but it was the correct part,might be worth a try just to see if they can get one