langers2k

The coding you've posted looks to be for a 3Q0 camera but I expect you'll have a 3QD or even 2Q0 camera. - If you have a 3QD camera, it'll be a different byte/bit - If you have a 2Q0 camera, it's not possible with VCDS/OBDeleven to enable TSR as it needs an extra FeC applying :(

The TSR enablement should be pretty much identical for any MQB car. However, it's important to find instructions for the right age of car as the modules change depending on model year. More importantly, is the OP aware that TSR needs an Amundsen to Columbus to work properly? It uses the satnav data as a basis and uses the camera to supplement it when their are temporary limits, changes etc. It can be made to work if you also change: Address A5 channel IDE04733-Road sign detection fusion mode to Road Sign Detection But I think you'll have a warning on the cluster every time the car is started

Pretty sure it'll never work as your VIN won't show up as connect compatible, sorry :(

At a guess, seconds since the log began 😉

Just a quick update, I had the CAN-gateway flashed and parametrised today so it now reports as: Address 19: CAN Gateway (J533) Labels:| 3Q0-907-530-V1.clb Part No SW: 3Q0 907 530 Q HW: 3Q0 907 530 C Component: GW MQB High 436 4344 After changing "Ambiente_Fahrprofil_Individual" back to 7, it verks! When in "automatic", the "individual driving mode" colour correctly matches the last one chosen via the "manual" selection. Happy days! It also seems to remember the last driving mode which is exactly what I was hoping for, win for player

I used ODIS to flash. Flash files and fatigue detection datasets can be found here: https://www.drive2.ru/l/8674505/ Video of a similar procedure:

Any H56 gateway should be fine: - 7N0 907 530 AN - 7N0 907 530 AS - 7N0 907 530 BC - 7N0 907 530 BG - 7N0 907 530 BL - 7N0 907 530 BQ They all have identical hardware so the software version isn't super important. I used a AN rev which I flashed to BL.

@Rustynuts does here: Otherwise there are various eBay sellers who do too

Latest maps still fit on a 16GB card despite it claiming a 32GB is required. Part of the problem is your Mac is probably adding extra files and taking up space. Some people claim formatting with fat32 and a 4k sector size helps too. I've never heard of anyone hacking the headunit to allow 3rd party SD cards. Some SD cards let you change their CID (like a serial number) to match the Skoda/VW CID and will work, although they can be expensive to buy and you'll need the appropriate skills to change the CID. The easiest solution is to buy a 32GB card, no idea what the dealer price is but eBay is £25-35 and another well respected forum member (Rustynuts) sells them:

You probably need a surround like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/174223975157 That would let you use a Columbus/RNS-510 shaped unit. I'm not super familiar with the Superb so hopefully someone can advise further.

The part number is 3T0035156G so ideally, you would replace it like for like. Saying that, they are much more expensive that I would have expected for such an old and relatively basic headunit. Only identical unit I saw on eBay is in Lithunania: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393003210521 It probably doesn't help the Superb has a unique shape for it's Bolero.

Woah - what did you do to it!? It looks like it was a Skoda Bolero and the correct method to remove it is shown below. Once it's out, there will be a sticker with a part number on to confirm.

I'd start by cleaning the screen?

H55 doesn't support extended CAN, you'll need a new gateway https://www.drive2.ru/l/524680352778682577/ https://www.drive2.ru/l/502256637763912391/

Pretty sure HBA (address 20) connects to the "drive CAN-bus" which are pins 6 and 16. Post an autoscan to confirm the CAN-gateway version

Should be... Just as an example, this is an MK3 Octavia headlight and you can see the two white adjustment screws quite clearly:

The direct TPMS module should connect to the CAN gateway, if I remember correctly, it's pin 7 (low?) and pin 17 (high?). Pretty sure you need to make sure your CAN gateway supports the "extended CAN-bus". If it doesn't, those pins probably might not be there.

It should just be two adjustment screws on the headlight that need moving. I'm surprised the MOT tester didn't do it for you...

Looks like they pull out if you're careful: If I were you. I'd move the seat to the correct position and then disconnect the buttons. Keep the buttons in the car and go for a few drives. Assuming the seat never moves, that points at the buttons. If it continues to move about, then it's something else

Feels more likely that the buttons have gotten moisture in them so are causing the seat to randomly move...

@JayLibove - if you don't end up on a zoom call, add some pictures so we can at least see what you're trying to do and from where

I'd suggest you do the same as the video you posted. Remove the door card and inspect the speaker for any damage. While it's off, add some sound deadening to anything that might vibrate and refit the door card. Pretty common for anyone that's looking to improve the sound. If you don't want to do it yourself, I'm sure a local car audio place will do it

It's hard to tell but I think they might have distorted bass or vibration? At a guess, you're pushing the stock speakers too hard or something in the drivers door panel is vibrating. Consider upgrading your speakers or adding sound deadening to the doors to reduce vibrations.

Some variants of the silica bag (silikat) tend to split which can cause various blockages within the coolant system. I've never seen anything about G13 and silica causing corrosion on metal parts. A common mod is to either remove the silica bag or replace the expansion bottle for one that is not 'mit silikat'

Just to point out, even if the gauge is reporting 90'C, it doesn't mean the coolant is anywhere near. Many modern cars lie as drivers expect to see a stable temperature. If I remember rightly, the coolant gauge will report 90'C anywhere between 75'C and 105'C. If you really want to know the coolant temperature, you'll need a OBD diagnostic device to see what the ECU is reporting. When my 2.0l CR140 had a cool running issue, I logged a drive before and after the thermostat replacement and it make quite a difference: