langers2k

Pretty similar here, I've got a mix of Google Home, Philips Hue (lamps, switches, one Ikea LED driver) and Sonos gear. This year I grabbed some Sonoff smart plugs and flashed tasmota so my Christmas light timers are a cron job which works well. At some point, I want to try to try and get them linked to Google Home but that'll be harder now gbridge is defunct. I find that Hue works great with sunset timers and Google Assistant voice control. Sonos control tends to be easiest via their app. By far the most common thing is using Google Assistant to set a timer for my coffee brewing

A regen can be trigger by either the calculated or measured soot level This is an example on my old car (2.0l CFHC CR140) showing the calculated level hitting 18g and causing a regen: Unfortunately, I never did much logging of the DPF pressure sensor and I no longer have the car. Looks like I did a few random logs looking at different things each drive though: I've attached the original CSV files from VCDS if that helps: logs.zip While I appreciate it's a different engine, it's the same generation so I'd expect the data to be somewhat similar

Just replied to your PM, although now I know you're looking to fit it to a MK3 Octavia you should ignore the links/parts I mentioned. Anyway, our Russian friends have already achieved this There might be part differences for a LHD vs RHD car but the following links should give a general idea: - https://www.drive2.ru/l/530242782103601378/ - https://www.drive2.ru/l/494265662131142870/ Just check the pins match for your ECU, Wiring diagrams can be found from Skoda for a small fee: https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do

The OBDStar x300M seems to be a mileage correction tool rather than an OBD reader...? All MK3 Octavia's are based on the MQB platform but there are various manufactures for the instrument cluster over the years. This shouldn't effect checking fault codes etc. For reference, 5E0920871D is made by VDO but I've no idea if odometer adjustment is possible using an x300M. For general code reading/clearing, diagnostics and service resets, something like VCDS seems like a better choice as it's much more common.

Carista is being rubbish and giving the wrong description for the ABS error code, it's actually a common TPMS fault code... As for the others: - 131586 suggests a low battery voltage at some point - 05898 I've no idea about - 263442 could be an alarm issue - 204546 means one of your keys may have a low battery If I were you, I'd make sure the TPMS system is set properly (after checking the pressures) and replace the battery in your keyfobs. Then clear the fault codes and rescan in a week or so to see if any come back

The two can bus wires should be obvious enough, they'll be the pair twisted together. You'll probably find the colours on the tpms wiring also match them so I'd try that first. If you still want the wiring diagram, you can get it from https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do for a small fee.

Your MK2 Octavia is electrically very different to a MK7 Golf so the instructions in that video won't work for you. Current VCDS release is 20.12.0 which can be downloaded from here: https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/download/current.php Once you updated, post an autoscan and we can go from there

What do you mean by modifying the bulb options? With that style of BCM, the lighting config is a part of the BCM EEPROM which VCDS can't access. Typically, you'll need VCP or ODIS-e to tweak the lighting config. It might be better to say what you're trying to achieve

Maybe try a skoda dealer as I'm not familiar with shopping in your country. Have you checked for fault codes using vcds? Looks like the cluster might be loosing can bus communication which could be down to wiring. At the very least, I'd check the short wiring loom that connects to the rear of the instrument cluster for damage.

Ebay?

Depends what it is... I'd expect them to hold stock of popular items. If it's something more uncommon it might be in a national warehouse. The rarest/most unusual items will probably come from Germany or the Czech Republic.

There's a DCC mod going round that I thinks takes an Arteon dataset/parameter file to give a slider rather than discrete normal modes: Not sure exactly what's involved or any pre-requisites but it suggests you can go stiffer than sport - https://www.drive2.com/l/567978296046780450/

If you want electronic adjustable damping, then you'll either need to retrofit DCC or an aftermarket solution such as the KW DDC ECU kit (which comes with it's own control module and BT app)... If you just want adjustable damping, something like the Bilstein B16 might be suitable as they have an adjustment knob on the shocks

The DPF is no where near the maximum soot mass so it should regen. Oil ash is relatively high but that's expected on a car with 120k miles. Based on this Audi TSB, you may need a software update to resolve the fault: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/MC-10128396-9999.pdf I think 9416 exists for your engine which may resolve the issue and should still be pre-emissions fix. The latest is 9980 but that will contain the emissions fix

I'm pretty sure there is a fuse for the lighting on the left and another fuse for the lighting on the right. If only the DRL aren't working, it's unlikely to be a fuse

You should download the workshop manuals for your car from: https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do Failing that, it'll probably be in a similar location to the MK7 Golf: - http://www.vwgolf.org/overview_of_fitting_locations_v_control_units_front_of_lhd_vehicles-2675.html - http://www.vwgolf.org/removing_and_installing_headlight_range_control_unit_j431_control_unit_for_cornering_light_and_headlight_range_control_j745_lhd_vehicles-2596.html The error code you posted is pointing at the front level sensor... I thought that was pretty clear from the description: Left front level control system sensor Open circuit/short circuit to B+

That looks like the suspension level sensor and it's wiring are are fault, not the AFS module. I'd start by inspecting the level sensor on the front left suspension and it's wiring for damage

From what I understand, the WLTP certification requires the car reset to 'normal' so this functionally it built in to the CAN gateway software from around MY19 (3Q0 907 530 AA and newer). Unless someone is able to modify the CAN gateway software, I don't think it'll be possible to disable it on a MY21. You could try an older CAN gateway but that may cause issues with other modules :(

@Taz1983 - the cool blue boost aren't brighter than other xenon's. If anything, they'll be dimmer. The way they've increased the colour temperature is by adding a blue filter on the bulbs, reducing the total light output. That's the reason they aren't road legal. Still, I agree it's best to stay with road legal ece approved versions 👍

If you've coded the camera in and removed it, that could cause issues. If you post an autoscan from VCDS or similar it might give us some ideas

@jazzmag2k - yes, the camera connects to the rear of the media unit above the glovebox. The display is only a display The quadlock comes out as one connector once it's unlatched. The fakra connectors are separate but you'll only need to disconnect them if the media unit needs to come fully out

Welcome to the forums. I think your search skills need improving The first post covers post of the wire routing etc: The second post is specifically about genuine highline cameras such as the one you look to have bought: Hope that helps and at least give you a starting point!

The low line camera doesn't need or have the CAN high/low wires. Your problem has nothing to do with the wiring. Based on your other posts, you have a 5Q0035819A radio and as Sashagrace told you previously, it doesn't support a rear view camera. It appears it's missing the video chip needed as mentioned on this thread: http://rapidklub.pl/discussion/1512/mib2-doposazenie-w-kamere-cofania-low-retrofitting/

It's trivial to clear the software update code: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/18798/

At a guess, the four channels are: - Leuchte0BLK VLB35 - Leuchte1BLK VRB23 - Leuchte18BLK HLA71 - Leuchte19BLK HRC10 That's based on their current lasttyp being "Blinkleuchten" and them either being used as "Blinken links Hellphase" or "Blinken rechts Hellphase"