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langers2k

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Everything posted by langers2k

  1. I used ODIS to flash. Flash files and fatigue detection datasets can be found here: https://www.drive2.ru/l/8674505/ Video of a similar procedure:
  2. Any H56 gateway should be fine: - 7N0 907 530 AN - 7N0 907 530 AS - 7N0 907 530 BC - 7N0 907 530 BG - 7N0 907 530 BL - 7N0 907 530 BQ They all have identical hardware so the software version isn't super important. I used a AN rev which I flashed to BL.
  3. @Rustynuts does here: Otherwise there are various eBay sellers who do too
  4. Latest maps still fit on a 16GB card despite it claiming a 32GB is required. Part of the problem is your Mac is probably adding extra files and taking up space. Some people claim formatting with fat32 and a 4k sector size helps too. I've never heard of anyone hacking the headunit to allow 3rd party SD cards. Some SD cards let you change their CID (like a serial number) to match the Skoda/VW CID and will work, although they can be expensive to buy and you'll need the appropriate skills to change the CID. The easiest solution is to buy a 32GB card, no idea what the dealer price is but eBay is £25-35 and another well respected forum member (Rustynuts) sells them:
  5. You probably need a surround like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/174223975157 That would let you use a Columbus/RNS-510 shaped unit. I'm not super familiar with the Superb so hopefully someone can advise further.
  6. The part number is 3T0035156G so ideally, you would replace it like for like. Saying that, they are much more expensive that I would have expected for such an old and relatively basic headunit. Only identical unit I saw on eBay is in Lithunania: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393003210521 It probably doesn't help the Superb has a unique shape for it's Bolero.
  7. Woah - what did you do to it!? It looks like it was a Skoda Bolero and the correct method to remove it is shown below. Once it's out, there will be a sticker with a part number on to confirm.
  8. H55 doesn't support extended CAN, you'll need a new gateway https://www.drive2.ru/l/524680352778682577/ https://www.drive2.ru/l/502256637763912391/
  9. Pretty sure HBA (address 20) connects to the "drive CAN-bus" which are pins 6 and 16. Post an autoscan to confirm the CAN-gateway version
  10. Should be... Just as an example, this is an MK3 Octavia headlight and you can see the two white adjustment screws quite clearly:
  11. The direct TPMS module should connect to the CAN gateway, if I remember correctly, it's pin 7 (low?) and pin 17 (high?). Pretty sure you need to make sure your CAN gateway supports the "extended CAN-bus". If it doesn't, those pins probably might not be there.
  12. It should just be two adjustment screws on the headlight that need moving. I'm surprised the MOT tester didn't do it for you...
  13. Looks like they pull out if you're careful: If I were you. I'd move the seat to the correct position and then disconnect the buttons. Keep the buttons in the car and go for a few drives. Assuming the seat never moves, that points at the buttons. If it continues to move about, then it's something else
  14. Feels more likely that the buttons have gotten moisture in them so are causing the seat to randomly move...
  15. @JayLibove - if you don't end up on a zoom call, add some pictures so we can at least see what you're trying to do and from where
  16. I'd suggest you do the same as the video you posted. Remove the door card and inspect the speaker for any damage. While it's off, add some sound deadening to anything that might vibrate and refit the door card. Pretty common for anyone that's looking to improve the sound. If you don't want to do it yourself, I'm sure a local car audio place will do it
  17. It's hard to tell but I think they might have distorted bass or vibration? At a guess, you're pushing the stock speakers too hard or something in the drivers door panel is vibrating. Consider upgrading your speakers or adding sound deadening to the doors to reduce vibrations.
  18. Some variants of the silica bag (silikat) tend to split which can cause various blockages within the coolant system. I've never seen anything about G13 and silica causing corrosion on metal parts. A common mod is to either remove the silica bag or replace the expansion bottle for one that is not 'mit silikat'
  19. Just to point out, even if the gauge is reporting 90'C, it doesn't mean the coolant is anywhere near. Many modern cars lie as drivers expect to see a stable temperature. If I remember rightly, the coolant gauge will report 90'C anywhere between 75'C and 105'C. If you really want to know the coolant temperature, you'll need a OBD diagnostic device to see what the ECU is reporting. When my 2.0l CR140 had a cool running issue, I logged a drive before and after the thermostat replacement and it make quite a difference:
  20. The thermostat isn't a service item so I wouldn't expect it to have been replaced with a timing belt
  21. Welcome to the forums. Side light (parking light) bulb replacement looks to be covered in the owners manual on page 228.
  22. It's exactly as I said previously, a 5E0919605M is originally fitted to a facelift MK3 Octavia with a MIB2.5 Amundsen. I believe it will also work with the MIB2 Amundsen and MIB2 Columbus but not the MIB2.5 Columbus. It will only fit in a MK3 Octavia Unless you got it super cheap, why not return it? There might be a small 'restocking fee' but it may still be the quickest/easiest way to get your money back.
  23. Turn it over and tell us what the part number is...
  24. The part number will confirm it but at a guess, it's a MK3 FL Octavia Amundsen display (MIB2.5).

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