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langers2k

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Everything posted by langers2k

  1. Could be a level sensor or something else. Ideally you should get it scanned for fault codes with VCDS or similar to give some pointers 👍
  2. That's not the latest version... Not surprising as it seems you have a cloned/pirated VCDS interface based on your thread over at Ross-tech's forums: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/35427/
  3. Looks like you've lost communication with one of the headlight control modules: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/02234 On a mk2 Superb, this is commonly due to water ingress as the control module sits on the underside of the headlight. I would suggest you remove the headlights to check the is no corrosion etc on the control modules or wiring connectors 👍
  4. You might want to add what MPG you're getting and the kind of driving you're doing... The EGR is pretty much required to get the DPF to function properly: https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/egr-removal-delete/
  5. It'll just depend how well the LED works with the stock reflector/projector so it's impossible to generalise. As an example, take a look at the specs of a few H7 lamps from Philips: - Halogen 'Vision' headlight bulb is 1500lm : https://www.philips.co.uk/c-p/12972PRC1/vision-car-headlight-bulb - Halogen RacingVision GT200 bulb is 1500ln ±10% https://www.philips.co.uk/c-p/12972RGTB1/racingvision-gt200-car-headlight-bulb - LED Ultinon Pro9000 is 1500lm https://www.philips.co.uk/c-p/11972U90CWX2/ultinon-pro9000-with-exclusive-lumileds-automotive-led They all start with the same raw lumens and each will likely have brighter and dimmer parts within the beam, it'll vary between headlight designs to how useful the brighter bits are At least with the beam shots from some of the Chinese drop in LED kits I've seen, the foreground lighting is brighter but there is less useful distance lighting making for a worse experience. Hopefully Philips and other big names can balance that out to put the light where it's most useful. It's hard to take LED's and fit them into the same space as a halogen filament...
  6. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/P068A/001674 A weak battery would be my first guess... Can you confirm what car you have? Your profile mentions a 2008 Superb which would be a MK2 rather than a Mk3 and your recent posts are regarding a MK2 Octavia
  7. Looks like your VCDS software is out of date, you can download the current version for free from here: https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/download/current.php Once you're updated, post a new autoscan. Should be easy enough to fix the light issues although it looks like you have a few other issues too
  8. I don't think there is anything you can do with the door warning lights, just ignore the warning. Rear DRL can be done with ODIS-e or VCP. Unplug the OEM bluetooth module, it'll be under a front seat at a guess. You can probably then remove it from the installation list afterwards.
  9. If the BCM is new enough to natively support LED's (around MY11/MY12) then it's possible to remove the bulb warning/checks for most bulbs. You'll need to tweak the EEPROM using ODIS-e or VCP but if done correctly, there is no need for load resistors. When I last checked, there weren't any settings in the lighting section of the EEPROM which would help for main/dipped beams. Maybe... I've not checked myself but the coding mentioned here might work: https://www.drive2.ru/l/543045770375332499/ Fog lamps can be done via ODIS-e or VCP if the BCM is new enough. A 2015 BCM should be fine
  10. That looks normal to me for a car with standard white footwall lights. The two 'suns' are to control the brightness of the footwell and ambient light strips separately. The colour selection will effect the ambient light strips and the headunit/instrument colour accents. If you had RGB footwell lighting, you should get some coloured tints in the footwells, even then there is only one colour selection which effects everything. Random Russian image showing how RGB footwell lights would show up, note the red tint in the footwell.
  11. More info here too:
  12. The 12v accessory sockets in the Octavia are permanently live and directly connected to the battery via appropriate fuses. There are no relays or other switching electronics upstream so 'the canbus' cannot disable them. The only limit to charging would be the fuse, on the wiring diagram I have the lowest is rated at 20a which is unlikely to cause issues for most chargers.
  13. Can you share a picture? Maybe someone has messed with the coding so it's giving controls for things that aren't fitted...
  14. As above, the stock footwell lights are white only. You can add RGB versions, when I did it, I used 8W0 947 415 A/B/C/D. These are from an Audi and work perfectly once setup and wired correctly. Few helpful posts - https://www.facebook.com/mqbcoding/photos/a.830666343659925/1932763500116865/?type=3 - https://www.drive2.ru/l/517862556052751411/ - https://www.drive2.ru/l/525539895993698796/ There are also kits from Aliexpress although the colour balance seems to be off when compared to OEM kits: - https://www.drive2.com/l/599712675525567704/
  15. I have zero experience with MIB3 headunits which I think the OP has, nor with attempting to navigate to an address stored in an iPhone 😕 It wouldn't surprise me if it's a MIB3 bug, not that it helps... Personally, I prefer Waze/Google Maps to the inbuilt nav. I would hope CarPlay could set the destination to that stored in a contact?
  16. Just had a quick look for hatchback/sedan part numbers: - 5E5 945 111 and 5E5 945 112 looks to be a pre-FL with halogen bulbs - 5E5 945 111A and 5E5 945 112A looks to be a pre-FL with LED brake/tail - 5E5 945 111B and 5E5 945 112B looks to be a FL (low functionality) with LED brake/tail - 5E5 945 711(A?) and 5E5 945 712(A?) looks to be FL (high functionality) with LED brake/tail Not sure what the FL (high functionality) 71x vs 71xA is about, one site suggested LHD/RHD... The pre-FL 2015 brochure mentions the double C shape: The FL 2017 brochure only mentions the 'high' functionally clusters in detail with a single C shape: I'm 99% sure it's impossible to disable one C shape using VCDS on the pre-FL LED clusters as the wiring diagrams only show a single wire controlling both
  17. I don't believe it's possible on this generation of car... Maybe add a link to the guide you're trying to use and a vcds autoscan from your car 👍
  18. The fl vRS gets the single c style Otkaav posted a picture of earlier in this thread.
  19. I tend to use https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/ but it's a per time period charge. Fine if you just want an hour to grab workshop manuals, could get expensive if you want access over a few days/weeks to check multiple vins. I think others have used various 'free' online VIN decoders, I don't have any suggestions I'm afraid. If it's a Skoda dealer, they should be able to provide a list of PR codes if you ask nicely and they aren't an arse
  20. Manual cars get the VAQ too. My '68 plate manual vRS 245 has one 👍
  21. It's a different rear cluster. You can fit pre-fl clusters but you'll need a wiring adapter and coding changes. Most people do the opposite and fit fl clusters to pre-fl cars 😉
  22. If you want to increase the bulb lifetime, use something like osram ultra life. The actual lumen output will be pretty much identical to the performance halogen. The plus X percentage brighter/range claims are pretty bogus. It's measuring a single part of the headlight beam in a headlight from a one car model which yielded the best result. Although some EU countries are starting to accept retrofit led kits, from what I've seen it needs to be certified for each individual lamp type so it's far from universal. When I last checked, some VW models were listed but no Skoda's. I doubt the retrofit LEDs will be any brighter than a halogen. Anything above 2000lm will need headlight washers and leveling systems so it'll just be a whiter, longer lasting lamp rather than a true performance upgrade.
  23. The front diff settings appears on cars without a VAQ so scrap that. Scan tool or PR codes is the easiest way... Thread regarding it:
  24. Checking the pr-codes for the vin or using a scan tool to check the module is fitted are the obvious options. I think there might be an extra option in the individual driving mode setup too. I can't remember the wording though...
  25. ECE1 has Spain, France and the UK which fits on a 16gb card 👍

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