langers2k

1Z0 035 156 F seems to be the Blaupunkt version which is reported to have phonebook corruption issues with later 7P6 modules. I'm don't know if there is a solution or if any BT module will work with your Bolero with track skip support. Maybe someone else can add more info

What's the part number and software version of you bolero?

The 1K8 module is older than your original one, I doubt it's going to help... It only has three bytes as it's old You need a module that supports the AVRCP bluetooth profile. I believe this means you need a 7P6 035 730 F or newer looking at various VW forums. I'm not super familiar with the Bolero but I'm sure there are issues with older Bolero versions and some BT modules. Something about corrupted phonebooks if I remember correctly? Might be worth checking your Bolero version can support the newer modules before buying anything...

There is NO component protection on these modules! From what I can tell, 7P6 035 730 C (and other 9W7 modules) support A2DP which is the bluetooth profile needed for BT audio streaming. It might just need enabling...

Or just print off your own calibration board and take it with you! It cost me about £8 for a full sized print at a local printers

You might want to take a look at this thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485897-how-to-reverse-camera-fitting-guide/ It's geared towards an Octavia but the parts/theory should be similar.

There is no component protection on this style of BT module, nor on a 2010 Octavia... Which module did you have previously? Do you have VCDS or similar to code the BT module?

Might be worth asking the OBDeleven creators? Just to point out, even if OBDeleven is completely accurate, the voltage at the OBD port is unlikely to be identical to the battery voltage so it may show a slightly lower reading A proper battery tester is a better plan to asses the battery health as there is more to it than just resting/running voltages

@Scot5 - it's a virtual cockpit/cluster/dashboard or active info display. Basically, a big screen rather than traditional dials for the instrument cluster. There are various part numbers/software versions depending when it was made. 565 920 790 C is the part number of what seems to be the latest version

Check the wires inside the rubber gator between the door and car body. It's relatively common for this to fail

I've only had my screen out once but I'm pretty sure I used all four at once. It's probably possible with two as long as it doesn't reclip in

Might be worth asking @Charlie2020 ended up buying in this thread: If it worked for him, it should be fine for you

There are a few VCDS autoscans from cars with 565 920 790 C fitted online A good starting point is to see how the modules in your car compare... The C rev certainly has a very different software (4193) version installed to the earlier A rev (1691/1703) clusters.

Might be worth checking the VCDS owners list and map to see if there is anyone local? An autoscan from VCDS takes a couple of minutes and will give you a much better idea of whether you actually need a garage or their diag fee!

It's pretty hard to guess an exact problem based on a few dash lights as they cover so many different faults. I'd certainly agree that a failing battery can give a multitude of seemingly random faults. It's also plausible that a bad ABS sensor could upset the ESP/ESC and cause the steering light to come on as the two systems are closely linked. As for the OPS issue, some versions rely on the ABS sensors to assist with self parking etc but low voltage seems more likely. If you really want an accurate answer, you'll need to get the car connected to diagnostic equipment such as VCDS to read the fault codes. It'll depend what faults have been stored to whether a drive with a fully charged battery clears the warning lights

Welcome. Do you know which satnav you have as there are a few options for a 2012 Superb. Might be worth adding a picture if possible

It's impossible to know exactly what changes between part numbers. The final letter can denote: - a newer part - an improved part - similar parts with different PR codes/features - a change to how it's manufactured (cost cutting) Anyway, here is a scan of a Superb with a similar (to yours) K rev module and factory fitted memory motors here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/481377-amundsen-upgrade-to-google-maps-with-live-traffic/ That suggests the door controllers should support dipping. You might want to check your coding though, your previous post gave this lcode: 001C0120DE00020000001100 XX <-- byte 04 DE = 1101 1110 X <-- bit 1 is ticked Instructions clearly state bit 1 should not be ticked if memory motors aren't fitted. Maybe try: 001C0120DA00020000001100 If that doesn't work, I think you'll need to retrofit a memory motor and wiring to get this working properly.

Might be worth adding a link to where you bought it. Is it lowline or highline? A VCDS autoscan would be helpful

That looks like a plug & play camera, are you sure coding is needed?

What camera have you installed? Is it a reversing camera? Can you add an autoscan so we can see how your car is configured?

Yup, as RomanB said, if it's a new cluster then when it's fitted, the fitter should transfer the odometer reading over for you. If you're using a used cluster (100km+ ?), it's not possible to simply set the odometer as currently, no tools can set a used odometer. It is possible to increase it by simulating a car travelling at 100+mph as I had to update my VC due to a repair. If you end up with a used one and need it increasing, drop me a pm

It shouldn't be a problem. There will be voltage drop along the wires so although a multimeter will show a lower voltage than the battery, when you charge it'll do the opposite. The wires certainly won't cause it to overcharge Leave the negative terminal connected but don't connect the charger to it. Instead, attach to the ground point as shown in the owners manual. The battery monitoring system needs to see how much charge the charger is adding so the battery status and state of charge is correct. If you're disconnecting the battery to charge or charging it directly, ideally the car should be recoded to show a new battery has been fitted so it can relearn the characteristics/SoC etc. While I agree that overcharging is bad, there should be little risk when using an appropriate smart charger for the correct battery technology

If you remove the battery and charge it, the battery monitor won't know about the extra energy in the battery. When you refit it, you should therefore recode the car so it can relearn the battery parameters and state of charge. Ideally, you should leave the battery in-situ and connect the negative to the car body (not the battery negative) so the battery monitor knows what's happening and avoid recoding 👍

I typed Rieger UK into google for you I'd suggest you contact a few of these and see what they can do for you: - https://progressiveparts.com/brand/rieger-tuning - http://www.st-performance.co.uk/rieger home.html - https://www.body-kit.co.uk/store/.b/rieger-tuning Good luck

I would have thought a 1.5a charger would be perfect to keep the battery topped up? Obviously a 5a charger will charge it 3.333x quicker but given it's not a flat battery and you're looking to just top up, I'd try the 1.5a for a few days and see how it does.