Kenny R

You don’t have to engage off-road mode for the drive to go to 4 wheels, it does this automatically in normal everyday driving. I would check that the Haldex services have been done as here in the UK it is an addition to normal services and even then Skoda dealers in the UK just change the oil and do not remove the pump and clean the filter unless you specifically ask them, and the garage you deal with has a clue. One thing to note if you haven’t driven a Haldex equipped car before if the front wheels do slip you need to keep the power on to allow drive to transfer to the rear, assuming your Haldex IS working.

Interested in how you selected 4wd mode. I suspect you mean off-road mode. How long have you had the car, has the Haldex oil been changed and the pump filter cleaned if due.

My Kodiaq could be in amongst that lot 😞

Well my Kodiaq went into production week beginning 16/8 and has definitely stalled. Only info Skoda are giving out is that the system is showing production is delayed.

Whilst the prices quoted by the OP are extortionate, the first battery appears to be a normal 12 v battery and the second appears to be an EFB suitable for stop/ start. Does the OP’s yeti actually have stop/ start? If it does it will require the correct EFB or AGM battery and most likely coded to the vehicle.

1. Not normal. Car should have had at least 2 Haldex oil and filter changes by now, any proof this has been done. 2. Agree with above. 3. Fans running on after stopping are usually caused by interrupted dpf regens . Do you do lots of short journeys?

Have you tried here… http://www.kopacek.com/scripts/faq.php

I’m sure like other volume related items like sat nav announcements etc you turn them up or down, using the volume control, when they are occurring.

Thanks, whilst it would be nice to have the direct system, I really want the indirect as it will make fitting my current winter wheels no problem.

I know it’s sad, but I have been looking at the online owners manual to check on any differences on my awaited facelift Kodiaq. The manual make reference to direct tyre pressure monitoring, does anybody know if Skoda have now changed from the indirect system, or if the direct system is an option perhaps in other countries, the online manual is a bit vague.

This is the one I bought, definitely works with Skoda connect lite app on my Kodiaq. eBay item number 264747012721

For the sake of £5 it has different functionality but works much better than the paid for Skoda Connect.

Try it and see. Early 1.5 engines certainly had some hesitation/ kangaroo problems but the latest software updates seem to have solved this. Has your car had the fix applied? @e-Roottoot beat me to it.

Just to show 17” wheels fit just fine over the 340mm brakes, well on my Kodiaq anyway.

What was the oil level at the last time you checked, how long/ how many miles ago was that, and has it gone down considerably since then? Did you check the oil level when cold.

From the owners manual…

Once modded to the large MPH display it is only a matter of un ticking an option box in the maxidot display to display KPH again, which does comply with the regs.

Checked with Skoda live chat today, my Kodiaq that went into production week beginning 16/8, is still in production due to semiconductor shortages 😞

Strange, as any time I’ve used the Skoda UK website live chat to check the build progress of my previous Yeti, current Kodiaq and my awaited new Kodiaq they have been able to give me the latest progress in less than a minute from me giving them my order number.

Motorway?

The same dirt/ road spray that requires you to wash the windscreen to see also obscures the headlights. The headlight washers on my previous yeti that had xenons and my current Kodiaq with LED’s keep the light clean with no problems. Perhaps if they are making a mess, it’s down to the screenwash used.

As said in my post above, the ballon payment is what you pay if you want to keep the car. I’m new to this PCP malarkey and I’ve just swapped in my Kodiaq with 10 months till the end of my 4 year PCP and got a decent deposit to put down on a new one when the remaining finance was cleared. As varaderoguy says above you should always come out with enough for a deposit on the next one.

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I’m no PCP expert but my experience is the “ balloon ” payment is what you have to pay at end of term if you want to keep the car. The residual value of the car is normally higher than this and it is normal to have enough equity to pay a deposit on your next pcp contract. You can also get a settlement figure and trade in the car before end of term again normally with enough equity to put down as a deposit on a new car