Gissin

notch goes on the back of the deflector ( so facing out ) fwiw I don't have the metal clips in and they've never moved

sounds about right - glad you got it sorted

removing the door card is fairly easy no seals that I remember however to get to the regulator you'll need to drill out the rivets in the inner door panel then once repaired replace the rivets. had this go on mine recently local vag specialist sorted it for (complete replacement ) for around 200 i think, the cheapest I could find full OEM replacement part was 160 if you take the card off there's 2 plastic black plugs inline with the wires so you can check if ones bust.

ok so should have been picked up at a MOT at some point too then in that time ..so could be something that's happened fairly quickly. Yes I'd get it tracked asap as depending on the issues the new tyres you've just put on could be in the same state in a few months. w and y jus relate to the speed ratings W(168mph) and Y(186mph). ideally you should have the Y's on the front ( higher speed rated on the drive wheels) but it shouldn't cause any issues. you've not hit any big potholes or anything recently have you ?

how quickly have you done this 20K - hmm that's odd if skoda did a check on the tyres a few months ago and didn't pick up inside edge wear ( possibility that there has been a rapid deterioration in that time) did whoever changed the tyres check the suspension at the same time? what car is it, engine / year /spec/ wheels - I take it it's not been modified ? I would 100% get a 4 wheel alignment a combination of negative camber and excessive toe in will eat the inside edge pretty quickly. if that's ok then it's time to check suspension and compenents / trailing arm bushes etc.

quite possibly the alignment - have a tendency to wear on the inner edge on the rears, when was the tracking last checked? inflation checked?

? yeah as I said a 200 cell cat (sports cat) you won't need to replace this every year .. unless you mean removing the cat and refitting for MOT Each year.

ok so it's not illegal to remove the cat but it's a requirement for an mot. if you're going stage 2 I'd be looking at high flow turbo back with 200cell cat. later add in high flow intake,uprated DV version, upgraded intercooler and engine mounts. milltek (get a good rep on here) scorpion power flow Remus Apr non resonated will be louder and might be a bit droney on long journeys

so I looked at the live data again as it just states throttle % so Ive found out exactly what it's monitoring and it's throttle position (manifold) % will this make a difference to what the data means

hi and welcome - it's worth stating what engine you have and year, should be able to get better answers then

Surely there's a issue if it's reading 80/90% at idle ..and the readings are all over the place like it'll go 32-80-25-62..etc. I'm going to screen record some live data and post it on here later - I'm also going to check the voltage with a multi meter. after that I'm going to have my local garage run a scan on it see if they can spot anything I guess after that maybe remove it and check to see if it's all clogged up then ,maybe think about replacing it.

so I can find a Oem throttle body replacement 185VG0510 for £180 - would this be a straight swap not requiring any VCDS witchery

thanks, do you know if these can be replaced just sensor only ? http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Throttle_Body_Alignment_(TBA) - I was reading this which stated Tdi's donot have throttle bodies ? http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Throttle_Body_Alignment_(TBA)

is there a separate senor or is it built into the pedal? assuming the throttle sensor is inside and linked to the pedal and not somewhere like the throttle body in the engine. .

yeah I spotted that - gave it a go but nothing changed unfortunately thanks though

in prep for my remap I thought I'd have a good check over the car - using carista (ELM327) nothing comes back so I assumed all good - I also used torque pro to have a look at some live data and something seemed off on absolute throttle position % with the ignition on it shows 92.5% (pressing the pedal did nothing) engine on goes down to 88.2% now pressing the pedal seems to make the % go down ...? I assumed it would read 0-100% starting at 0 the car, as far as I'm aware, drives fine (slightly sluggish 1000-1400 RPM) boost seems to hold steady as 22.3 PSI when accelerator fully depressed all through the rev range and drops off as soon as the pedal is released. thinking the TPS is goosed but I can't seem to find any info on replacing it or a replacement part. any help or info on this will be greatly appreciated as i'm sat scratching my head,

thought I'd refresh the rear lights so a box of 556's and some Phillips silver as the amber ones are pretty shot

there's few options, Columbus (Skoda) units -these are pretty much the same units as RNS510's from VW Amundsen(Skoda) there's the Kenwood DX series Some of the Xtrons (andoid units) have some functionality with skoda systems

yes, exactly 3 weeks today. it'll be the first tdi I've had remapped so will be interesting.

yeah I thought about that, from what I gather it's a shark remap as Ben now works for racing line. I was considering it but with the distance and the cost went against it, the info from will and the reviews decided this sounded good. keep you posted ..3 weeks to go

some new bits to start working on the car again, interested to see how the ceramic foam gets on I've heard good things, the leather cleaner seems good and has made some of the bits I've cleaned feel soft and new again. chucked the turbo cleaner in to potentially help clean before the map was probably unnecessary

yeah you will need adaptors, the old housing will have to be drilled out as they are riveted in

I'll let you know in 3 weeks as I'm booked in with him. Seems like a nice dude and has provided plenty of information on his process and what to expect - slots are 2.5 hours and he confirms the map is built to the car as opposed to a 15 min flash like many were offering

https://www.pressednumberplates.co.uk/buy/road-legal-plates/ these guys did my plates, stood up to being reversed into by a lorry with very little damage so quality is decent

for a full clutch and DMF (assuming yours is a TDi) you're looking around £280 for a sachs kit + fitting (£400-600 rough estimate depending where you go) slave cylinder release bearing (CSC) is roughly about £30 + fitting (not sure what cost that would be)