SurreyJohn

What it means is they didn't complete the PDI, or skipped parts of it. Clearly someone falsified the record if they signed it off as complete (100% done). Your problem is you don't know what other parts weren't done, did they check wheel nut torque or tyre pressures etc. Because you have evidence that PDI wasn't finished, perfectly reasonable to make them do whole PDI again on grounds it wasn't fully done, and they can't be sure something else wasn't missed. If they moan just say it's their poor staff training or quality control, so it's their problem to fix at their cost. Say both you and dealer are agreeing that the PDI completion certificate must have been issued falsely as PDI was not finished. If they really moan suggest they ask the dealers managing Director if he prefers you raising falsification with Skoda UK than them redoing PDI

You really ought not be noticing a 3 cylinder engine being lumpy at motorway speeds as will be doing nearer 3k revs. You are talking engine doing 50 revs a second, so cylinders firing 33 times a second. Far too short to feel lumpiness in engine. You might notice the thrum thrum at idle of nearer 800 revs. If you are getting something lumpy and/or vibrating at motorway speeds it is more likely to be a badly balanced tyre, or one with a bulge or flaw, even a slightly buckled wheel. Could even be faulty wheel bearing.

Probably being built to euro7 standards which comes in 1st July 2025 If they launch November, probably go on sale in Dec-Jan, probably first deliveries about Apr-May, therefore so would need to change specs within months if want to guarantee all cars built are sold by June 2025. I suspect want at least a year before revising spec so have to be euro7 from start.

We already know Skoda are moving to agency model with their electric vehicles (already converted Spain and Germany), rather than dealers buying stock (not that many dealers ever seem to have stock that you can drive away within hours) https://cardealermagazine.co.uk/publish/skoda-remains-committed-to-switching-to-agency-sales-as-boss-says-model-is-the-name-of-the-game/289199

Superb mk4 will be launched next week, evening of 2nd November https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/press-releases/skoda-auto-releases-exterior-sketches-of-the-fourth-generation-superb/

@New11 The Inspection is the basic annual service, and will initially be set to year or two. It counts down as warning for about last 30 days (as does last 1000 miles). When was it last serviced, was it basic (minor) service, or extended (full or major) service. In simple terms tend to alternate, although depends on your mileage as reaching time intervals and mileage points usually don't sync. You do not need a service plan, can just pay as you go. Depending on your style of driving and mileage the service plans often don't work as nearly always one minor, and one major service in 2-3 years which might not be suitable. Really need to advise how long ago it was serviced, what type of service (minor or full), mileage at last service and now, and age of car for people to give best advice. The main dealers should do job properly and any safety recalls too, and will do extra work (at high price, if you let them). But if car is out of warranty a local garage, or fast fit centre that does servicing will be cheaper

On fuel display, use right hand steering wheel buttons and thumbwheel to get to fuel consumption, then when it is displayed, try pressing down right thumbwheel, keep it pressed down then scroll it. Certain options have sub-menus which are accessed with thumbwheel pressed down, most people discover the folders button, and the thumbwheel, but not the third tier of options in the sub menus. I don't have Fabia mk4 but it is like that on some other models, so hopefully you will get there with bit of experimentation

I have no idea how the science behind this works First 3 years (and possibly few months between build and sale date) so 3-4 years Then magically the same fluid only subsequently lasts 2 years I know it is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture), but why does rate of absorption apparently change.

It's a discontinued model But remember the latest emissions equipment on diesels is very sensitive to not getting full DPF regen. Really need to be doing minimum 30 minute (nearer 40 in winter) journeys regularly, otherwise will give all sorts of trouble. Personally I would question why the dealer ordered a diesel, rather than petrol for stock, when less than 1 in 25 cars sold new in UK are diesel. Then has to offer it at silly price. Caveat Emptor (buyer beware)

Strong lesson here (bit late for Op, but useful reminder to others), good idea to swap wheels front-back at 10k - 13k miles to even out wear. And to make sure pressures are set correctly.

So yes keep car 14 years is £1000 extra When you think have just extended cambelt to about 15 years, save on one cost and get charged for another. Classic take with one hand, give with the other.

Colour is a very personal thing. There are plenty of both around, but then if you go to any car park, will see many cars in various shades of grey. The darker grey is bit more modern and contemporary. But if you want your car to not be just another boring grey car then you have to pick one of the unusual colours like Phoenix orange or Royal green or Hyper green. You will occasionally hear salesman say only grey, black & white sells well, then when you look at their used cars, find they are the ones they haven't managed to sell yet, and all the coloured ones have gone.

Tyre reviews have published the Auto Bild (German) winter tyre test results. https://www.tyrereviews.com/Article/2023-Auto-Bild-Winter-Tyre-Test.htm The ones already recommended have come top 1) Michelin Pilot Alpin 5 2) Goodyear Ultragrip performance 3 3) Continental winter contact TS870P

A lot will depend on if you are going to Southern part of Nordic countries, in which case normal European winter tyres should be fine. But if you are going hundreds of miles further north (towards Lapland) then probably want Nordic spec tyres. The Nordic spec is more designed for areas with months of lying snow, and temperatures of roughly -25c to +5c Standard European winter tyres are more for about -12c to +16c Exact temperatures vary by brand, and all will work (but not quite as well) outside this range For completeness in case anyone is reading for background European all season ideal range is about -5c to +25c European summer tyres ideal range about +5c to +35c

I have Goodyear ultragrip 9+ and they have been brilliant, works well at anything below about +20c, great in cold rain, brilliant in frost and snow too. The 9+ is for mid size and smaller cars, but if latest version of ultragrip is as good (it's ultragrip performance 3 for 205/55 R17) then should be on your shortlist too A friend of mine has Continental TS870, haven't used them personally, but he rates them highly. Probably another for your shortlist.

There are two elements, Turanza are summer touring tyres, the colder the temperature the firmer they will be. You will get a bit softer ride by switching to all season tyres. The second is the wheel size, 18 inch, will get much better ride switching to smaller rims and tyres with deeper sidewalls (outside diameter will be about same). 50 aspect tyres tend to be expensive compared to deeper 55 or even 60 tyres. The deeper the tyres the more they can absorb bumps in the road surface I doubt the suspension is the problem, but there have been cases of dealers incompetently leaving transit blocks in, which limits suspension movement. If you jack it up and feel under the rubber gaiter will soon spot the coloured blocks if they are there. To be honest, buying new rims and tyres for them will be lot cheaper than changing the car, here is rims catalogue. If you would prefer softer comfortable ride (rather than ability to shave tenth second off a lap time) then get the 16 inch rims, and 60 aspect all season tyres) https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/639a0118-4da5-446b-a786-86e1f789b57b

The simple answer is everything should be properly coded and not bypassed, it is not just parking sensors, if have any of reverse camera, ACC, blind spot monitors etc then they can all be affected. There is no turn off switch so has to be coded to react differently when it detects a trailer is plugged in. The days when cars had negligible safety systems and could just fit simple wiring are long gone

Don't bother to look for other fault until battery is fixed, weak batteries can throw up all sorts of spurious messages that sort themselves out when battery voltage is back to normal

The performance of the battery is temperature dependent, seems to me has limped on satisfactory during warmer summer months, but the colder weather is meaning new battery is required. @Micky 32 when you say you checked battery, was that in a warm garage at nearer +20c, or in cold morning parked outside at nearer 0c. Bet you will get different readings. The first reading is pointless if park car outside

The m (mild) hev only saves bit of energy during braking which is more useful to run electrical auxiliaries than power the car. The plug in version is expensive, has long lead times (the backlog is so bad, been taken off sale for months). But if you plug it in then for local journeys will use negligible petrol. Really you need to consider if you are going to pay for charging socket, do you have solar panels, what electricity tariff are you on. At its cheapest (just a wall socket) about £800, if you go whole hog with solar and battery units to run your house at night and use cheap off peak electricity, will be nearer £15,000 although would save about £100 a month in electricity (roughly a tankful of petrol a month) Neither version will save much fuel on long motorway journeys at constant speed over tsi The Mhev might save £5-10 of fuel a month over tsi for mainly local journeys and occasional longer journeys. So if keeping car 7 years not worth paying more than £500 extra for it. Otherwise spending more than your fuel savings To be perfectly honest, if you want car for mainly local journeys, are worried about cost of fuel, I have to question if Octavia is good choice, or if something smaller and cheaper would suit you better.

Seem to be very rare, locally see mainly mk2 Fabia, and fair number of mk3, but mk1 seems to be easier to spot than a mk4

Looks like Skoda has issued a new winter wheels and tyres brochure https://cf-cdn-v6-api.skoda.at/files/dc65993199f942ed5279baff86cc4abcd6781b03/b3f85333-cc44-4541-b2f5-d180744ac4f3/skowkr297x210mm2324rzds

This has happened before, from memory around late 2018 for few weeks, was a poor update of android auto, which was sorted in next release. Could it be repeat?

Isn't that discouraged, supposed to back onto your drive, not off it. Unless you have room to turn around or buy one of those turntables.

Yes of course you can ask to keep it, it's yours as you paid for it originally. The garage doesn't own the part it takes out, unless you have specifically ordered an exchange unit where old part goes off for reconditioning