ChoonDoode

rather than get a new battery, if you're not using your car often (as most of us aren't at the moment), it may be worth getting a battery conditioner and keeping it ticking over with that. It's been used on my car a few times in the recent months and my bike the rest of the time.

yeah.......ok, if somebody's tailgating you, I don't think a red light is going to do anything.

Have this if the car's been idle for a while and I've either washed the car or it's been rained on.

An educated guess at the noise in the first video would be to suggest something timing belt / waterpump related. How many miles has your car done?

5w5 are the bulbs. Just make sure they're the same or similar size because the opening for the bulb into the headlight space is tight

I know mines android auto, but if I try and use a 3rd party cable, it doesn't work. I use the original cable in the car and the 3rd party one in the house on the charger.

have a look on ebay. You can usually find the full kit on there for a decent price

It sounds as if the red insert was the better colour to have chosen. As you know, it's the softest. The idle noise was what annoyed me the most, but it's good you're not seeing that. I'm keen to see how you find it.

On my VRS tdi at the moment with not doing as many motorway journeys with predominantly working from home, I'm getting around 40 - 45mpg tank average. With the temperatures now close to 0'c, journey mog average is varying between 30 - 35mpg. When the temperatures increase, low 50s are achievable.

@roaddetective if you're doing it yourself (on the drive) you need.... a pair of ramps (unless you've a pair of jacks that can get it high enough of the ground) a pair of chocks (safety first) a socket set a breaker bar (the stretch bolt is in under some ridiculous torque setting) a torque wrench a rubber mallet (makes getting the insert in easier a choice of colourful phrases when removing the old bolt and tightening the new one if you're a competent person, it's a half hour job to fit. Take the car round the block and retorque the bolt again (just need a quick drive to ensure it settles into place) I popped a smidge of the 'grease' which comes with it on the entry of the top mount to aid it getting in. I'd advise doing the same on the entry bits on the lower section which you'll be putting the insert into. I used the whole sachet, but a bit smeared out. I'd probably say just coat the surfaces of the insert lightly with it. As you're installing an insert you shouldn't need to remove the dogbone mount itself, but when you go to insert the new bolt, you will need to push the engine unit away from you so the hole in the dogbone lines up with the holes on both sides on the bushes.

N91201001

I second the above. Run the car down to fumes, fill up with half a tank of Shell V Power or BP ultimate diesel (just with them having more detergents in them), take it on a road where you can keep the engine speed high and constant, to keep the exhaust gases high. The other thing to keep an eye out for would be to take note of the smell of the exhaust fumes when you get out your car. If it's a strong smell then you're car is trying to do an active regen. You're on a hiding to nothing if that isn't allowed to finish. @varaderoguy I wouldn't say there would be a glow plug issue. They're only used in the initial start up of the engine when it's cold.

The main thing which I'd say is if you like a smooth ride, don't touch the dogbone mount. I appreciate my findings come from using a lower hybrid bush on diesel (as opposed to a billet mount on a petrol) but the increase in NHV did spoil the car and it was amazing to see / hear / feel how the rubber bush dampened down the NHV from the engine. I understand people on here with just the inserts have found things to be manageable, but I certainly won't be going back and looking for other bits in this section.

on my service last month, which was down as being a major, I had to say don't change the air and pollen filters. Don't need the pollen filter doing as it's easy enough for me to do (plus with lockdown I've not exactly done the anticipated mileage to warrant changing it) and the air filter is a Ken and Nigel and is still relatively clean anyways. That was why I was against paying for the monthly service plan as I knew it was potentially going to mean I'd be paying for things which my car doesn't need.

Same with my car. The windscreen just beads the water and the force of the air moves it along. Doesn't work so effectively on the rear screen, especially with a bit of road dirt and general grime on the screen. And that's then where the rear wash / wipe comes into play.

I thought it would be an MOT failure. The 'if it was fitted, it should be there', but apparently the rear wiper isn't tested All my windows are coated in Turtle Wax rain repellent, but I wouldn't leave it up to that to ensure I could see out the back. Driving a van for work for over 8 years, I appreciate having the ability to see behind in my car a hell of a lot clearer.

that's it mate. Before it went in the other week for the service, I took the air filter out, cleaned it itself and wiped up any crud at the bottom of the filter housing.

I didn't have my pollen filter changed this time around because with lockdown, the car has hardly been touched. And I've a Ken and Nigel air filter, so that doesn't changing either. Only filter which was changed was the fuel one because I know they can be a bit fiddly. So saved £80 there. Win win.

My car went in for it's service yesterday and, as said previously, it's had the OEM bush put back in. They replaced both the top and the bottom bush, but only charged the labour for the bottom. It was amazing to get back into the car after I picked it up and the tranquillity within the cabin is uncanny. I've always been aware the poly bush amplified the engine noise, but it is amazing how much the OEM rubber bushes dampened the interior NHV. On the return the car was going into stop start and I was finding myself double checking the rev counter the engine had restarted. I'm glad I experienced the poly bush as I would say it did make 'going for a blast' that bit more enjoyable. HOWEVER........ I'm glad I've refitted the OEM bush because with the temperature dropping, I've already had a few instances at the lights when the car hasn't cut out, leaving me sat getting shook to bits. If I still used a van and the car wasn't my daily, I may having considered keeping the poly bush in. So that's my experience using a hybrid lower dogbone mount bush on a VRS tdi. YMMV using one yourself or using a basic insert.

I started having trouble with my phone when I used aftermarket and right angled usb cable. One minute all fine and the next it would disconnect. I swapped the cables round (aftermarket one as on my charger and the OEM one in the car) and I've not had an issue since. I've also ensured android auto isn't apart of the power saving options on my phone.

......I've mislaid one's glasses. I'm sure if you asked a dealer and gave them your VIN, they'd be able to tell you

Yeah, I've a pedal box and I do feel that it's a worthwhile purchase

had one on my car, took it off. Had serious issues with mine. Save your money and get a remap

isn't it on the label in the boot? use one of the code finders and it should tell you everything to do with the car.

That's it, I test drove 2 cars; one a poverty spec tdi vrs and the other a full loaded tfsi. Decided there and then I wanted to have front sensors just as a peace of mind. Then seens as the park assist wasn't too much more, I opted for that as well. I think the MY16 cars started to get a bit more as standard IIRC. Admundsen and CC were basics at the time I was looking at the end of 2015.