TheClient

Yeah. They're a very rare thing in the aftermarket world. You'll probably have to buy genuine new or a second hand part but the spring will probably have stretched and clamp down pressure will be down a bit on a second hand item. May not worry you that much.

I have had a number of Thule racks and they are generally well engineered, not cheap though. I also had a mk2 fl estate, and I used their aero roof bars and pro ride racks with one handed control. Still use them on the mk7 golf estate. what you say about height risk is correct though. You have to have your wits about you at all times and you can get distracted. I usually use a post it note on the dash reminding me of height. But still the risk is always there if you drop the ball. the outway looks pretty well engineered. I would also be worried about other solutions that requires tensioning at the side glass overhang. There’s very little room in that closing gap for one. Secondly tensioning against the glass lip overhang could end in disappointment. Glass may be relatively strong to lean on or place a load on, spread out, but pulling at its edge, on a overhang, wouldn’t be what I’d want to do. On the outway, they seem to be more like £370 unless second hand. And is it the platform one your aiming for to lift bikes up high? If so; what I would also add is that they definitely protrude a way past the roof line. Probably half bike height or a little more, so you may still have some clearance risks…

Most likely sticking turbo vanes or something wrong with the turbo actuator control or position sensor or circuits.

Well, we are only looking at 1 of 2 wheels. So ideally inspect both. Computer screens and photos are not the best for measuring things either to be honest. Also, there is an inner pad and outer and I'm not sure if your 2xphotos show the same pad or an inner and outer. Anyway it is hard to measure from screen but the friction material left is not too dissimilar to the backing thickness of the pad. At a guess, and that is all it is, maybe 6mm?.... If that is so, possibly 2/3 warn (14mm-2mm=12mm new vs 6mm-2mm =4mm left. The disc does seem to show a wear lip and will likely need replacing when you replace pads. Fronts do more braking than rears, so do wear quicker and depends on your braking style. But if you've had the car for a while you'll know how long it has taken to wear them 2/3rd.. Check the measurement I have guessed and check other wheel both pad sides as well. You could measure the lip on both surfaces of discs as indicative of disc wear, or better use a micrometer but I would confidently say you will be replacing with the pads anyway.

Yes OK. It should of read it as normal, regardless of flat key fob. That is what I thought but admittedly I've never done it and not from a locked and alarmed car.

Easy answer. Get second key. Second easiest - new battery in fob. 3rd I'm not sure why the key didn't work as I thought the immobiliser rfid didn't use the key fob battery... maybe I'm wrong..

For the oil sensor. Look at the oil pan. Its the only sensor there usually. Check for your rat damage. If not there you'll have to trace wires back until you find where... unless it'sjust coincidence and fault is the sensor...

They can. By dislodging particles that then get hung up somewhere in the engine. And more likely to have a problem where not used regularly every oil change. I'm not sure with the tdi of this vintage but I wouldn't do it with a tsi. Too many narrow guage galleries, ports, gauze filters, oil control valves to clog up...

I'll read your data and questions a few more times. Maybe I'll come up with someting.... But you are asking in great depth for my experience on this. In my past experience I've resolved with obvious checklist things. An obvious observation from your latest update is that temperature, in higher gears, will surely cause over fuelling... But I note your comments that it is 90C at idle and lower gears and presumably when running emissions tests?. Even if the gearbox has been changed and ratios altered, the thermostat should still be regulating the temp properly. I suspect the thermostat is faulty and may be unreliable. I'm not sure on the style of thermostat in the BUD. Is it an easy change? What is your outside ambient temperature at the moment when you see temp drop to 60-75C while driving? A workshop manual (aftermarket or VW Erwin you can pay for 1 hour access online) "may" help with exactly what voltages to expect on the diff O2 sensors. it may give some other testing procedures, maybe... The dash temp gauage in most VW group cars is usually Bravo Sierra. So I'm not surprised it reports 90C even when temp is lower. As long as the EMC is seeing the actual coolant temp. Presumably the diagnostic temp sensor you are seeing with the scanner is the reading being presented to the EMC. So unless it is too low, like when dropping in high gears, that should not be the cause of the over fuelling when engine is at 90C...

I would say most likely door wiring or even more likely, on basis it's in two doors, the mid bass drivers themselves. Also agree tweeters will be driven off same output with just a cap to filter bass. So unlikely at mib end unless you've got some fancy amp set up with separate hf lf outputs direct to speaker units..

May need to look further afield. Like posts in the vwroc mk7 R modifying forums. Or Gti mk7.5 forums See what they do with late mk7 facelift with Opfs. Yes, the exhaust is different but if you find a endorsed mfr of the exhaust it is likely they will do or certainly a good possibility they will do the vRS. Also as the engine shares a good deal of commonality so the end result should be similar.

Usually that is the case with the electronic Mahle (et al) servo motors. Version 05E145701H and J appear to use "normal" servo motors with replacements listed in ETKA. 05E145701K appears somewhat different. Etka doesn't list a part although that doesn't mean a specialist or the aftermarket definitely will not offer some solution. Worth a call or visit. To be honest I've not seen that style actuator before. But then I do run 5 years behind the time with car purchases.

The electric fuel pump normally primes for a period when unlocking and opening drivers door on petrols. Lost continuity of this thread, as don't think they do that routine on diesels. And yours is a 1.6 tdi.

If you can't hear it when opening door sometimes it must be intermittently faulty. Often a error would be stored if wiring or motor has gone open cct but not always. A physical check can be done by removing low pressure fuel line in engine bay and opening door or using a pump test protocol in scan tool. Obviously you need to be proficient and take care with open fuel line and collect ejected fuel. I wouldn't worry too much about which manufacturer is supplying the oem part (you'll have the 2 year part warranty) and unless you are going after market, in that case, you could try and match mfr or go with a good quality aftermarket make with decent reputation.

Annoying. As you might guess, the retaining clip is not listed as a separate part. You'd have to try a second hand part even then you would want to make sure it is present!! You might find some other hoses use the same retention clip. There are 2x hoses. I can't quite read the last 3 digits and any letter of the part code in your photo. One is close to £40 the other around £20.... Possible part numbers depend on emissions option codes for EU4, EU5 EU6,

Isn't there are metal retaining clip missing?

It does look contaminated. Not sure what with. Edit: it’s not that clear from the single shot photo. I’d suck what you can out of the reservoir, with say a large syringe / turkey baster etc. fill new fluid and flush through by bleeding. Maybe bleed through to the closest wheel first to get all the old fluid you can out first. is there a brake operation fault?

Yeah brushes worn beyond serviceable limits.

Entirely possible, I'd say even probable. The alternator is beneath the Aircon compressor isn't it. Not a lot of room. Some removal and maneuvering I'd say required photos of your specific model, engine and which air con pipes you are referring to would allow more comment.

Brushes probably worn out though as well though. Should be replaced if motor out.

Downstream should be stable mid range voltage I believe. The downstream isn't the main input to the ECU for fuelling trim / adjustments though. So may simply show the fault is elsewhere. Some basics; is the car warming up ok? Have you monitored the reported engine coolant temp with diagnostics (not the temp gauage). You've already replaced and checked air filter, spark plugs, what is their condition now? It certainly wouldn't be completely unusual to have to replace the CC inside 230k Kms. Even at 1L to 1.5l oil per 10k Kms, that would not be a concern for cat poisoning I don't think. Or visible burning oil in exhaust smoke. Probably not the place to comment publicly on altered odometers but lets say it has at least 230k KMs. I have no experience, but didn't think it would be that easy, unless you've made a career out of such things.... I'm sure it is possible with the "right" equipment and software... https://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/articles/7599-easy-air-fuel-and-oxygen-sensor-diagnosis#:~:text=Post-cat oxygen sensors%2C when,some effect on fuel control. " For post-catalytic converter oxygen sensors used for fuel control: Post-cat oxygen sensors, when good, feature a steady voltage usually between 500 to 700 mV. If it zigzags, the catalytic converter is highly suspect. On some vehicles the rear sensor does have some effect on fuel control. For our purposes, it’s just good to know that when testing the sensor, the voltage should go up when the fuel mixture is rich and should go down when it is lean. Sadly there is no way of generically knowing what is an optimal post-cat oxygen sensor voltage. It differs by the manufacturer."

They do oscillate. https://www.hella.com/techworld/uk/Technical/Sensors-and-actuators/Test-lambda-sensor-4379/#:~:text=If the operating temperature of,0.1 V and 0.9 V. I don't have enough experience to know if yours could still be the problem. Something is not right with Lamda staying over rich state as that could be the cause of the fail on CO and HC. +33% seems really high. Adding a lot of fuel to compensate for vacuum leak as you suggest is one logical interpretation but experience could link elsewhere. 200ml over 10k km is tiny. I'd say your dark smoke is unburnt fuel mixture (carbon) as that is what everything else is pointing towards. How many miles has the car done. Have you considered taking it to a trust worthy shop to diagnose? If you want me to guess I'd probably try a new respected brand lanbda sensor as they don't last forever and it is a logical place to start but it is not based on experience with your other circumstances.. https://www.autosuccessonline.com/understanding-fuel-trim-theory-and-operation/#:~:text=Long-Term Fuel Trim (LTFT,10% to %2B10%. https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/fuel-trimming-diagnostic-time/#:~:text=Short-term fuel trim (STFT,for a perceived lean condition.

Need a fault read. Could be haldex pump. But just guessing at your lack of 4x4 drive..

It could be as simple as a faulty lambda sensor, or worse poisoned or ineffective cat.

Yeah. as above I'm hoping and surely the noticeable smoke is.... condensation?