TheClient

No experience but sounds like you will need to manipulate the exhaust or downpipe. What is your engine code, 3 or 4 characters at start of engine number, the vw service manual may provide a recommemded sequence...

No probs. Of course I meant 1litre per 2000 miles or 3200km. Given you've only been putting in 500ml at a time. Suggest using Google to search cuna or cupa oil usage or oil consumption. It will probably return some posts from briskoda to examine plus possibly some from other forums using the same engine. Vw, audi, seat....

If you were topping up with 500ml and getting 1000 miles before adding another 500ml and another 1000 miles that’s likely 1l per 1000 miles or 1600km. Not ideal but not catastrophic yet. There have been issues with rings on the 2l diesels as there was with the 2l petrols in the mk2. Do some searching. Some people swear by an engine flush, but leaving it to late in engines life can create more problems. If you can use a slightly higher viscosity oil still meeting vw standard that may also help a little. Do rule out under hidden tray leaks as well.

Don't know. To me, tolerance limit is different from adjusting clutch clamping force. That does sound like the clutch packs could be end of life. I'd expect a few more miles but depends on driving conditions, launches etc... Looking forward to an expert opinion on here... or someone with specific exp of those... but I expect most required transmission out and clutch inspected...

OP means original poster, I.e. @Mazen86. The other reply regarding engineering level decision - is not helpful to resolving your issue. So, to try and clarify - you installed a new Canbus module to display diagnostic data on the in car infotainment screen?

No problems. Have you decided against trying the basic settings / adaptions on pro subscription?

Yes, I see. I would of thought if you paid for apple car play they should of been able to get that to work and same for MFSW. But, those faults sound like actual transmission hardware faults to me.... Am I right in understanding you did not notice the transmission fault until 400km later? My suspicion is it is just a co-incidence.....

This happened to me when I re-assembled the thermostat and water pump module on my ea888 gen 3. Instantly gave the same fault I had before changing. Unfortunately I didn’t check it until it was pretty much back together, which meant another round of disassembly and reassembly. In my case the inner o ring on the plug had moved and was obstructing the plug pushing home properly. Even the the locking clip engaged, the plug contacts were not connected…..I won’t make that mistake again…

I doubt it is anything to do with the infotainment coding. I suppose it is possible they messed something up along the way - but with those codes it really sounds like the transmission is not happy. For the price of paying for the pro subscription for a year, yes I’d try the basic settings / resets, synchro adaptions / clutch adaption and keep your fingers crossed. I have only direct experience of this on dq250 6 speeds. I do not know what basic setting adaptions the 7sp dq200 dry clutch has…

Forget the warranty. It is not your problem and all the hoops and excess and limits applied and T&Cs - it may amount to nothing. The selling dealer is on the hook for first 6 months without question to repair it PROPERLY. If they can't repair it properly it will be a refund. If you had of raised in the first 28 days you could have gone straight to refund. I say again, do not engage with the insured warranty process it will only likely distract and end in little or no satisfaction. You are under no obligation to claim on their insured warranty.

Was it privately purchased?

Is it a dsg or manual. sounds like it maybe something to do with clutch activation. Guessing its a dq381?

Pretty sure winding in is clockwise. You should be able to tell pronto-ish though if going wrong way. You could back off ever so slightly....

You could check plug harness to mirror but I doubt the humidity sensor has anything to do with it. AFAIK the mirror camera is to do with High Beam Assist, Speed Sign recognition, Lane Asssist. The radar at front of vehicle will handle Front Assist and ACC....

I did also in my R. Turned it to 0% in OBD11....

They use the same radar unit so that is a little peculiar. A full scan may help guide.

Air lock is a possibly. But now, after 10 years? If no recent coolant work, I'd say very unlikely... haven't heard any updates from op...

I would try a new quality cable and even try a friend's phone. @pab567 may have an update or other suggestion for yhe corrupted screen data. Presumably the screen does not sow these faults in general use, not Aa?

You can top up but unless you have a leak likely the pads are quite worn and when they are replaced you will likely need to remove fluid from reservoir. I'd suggest checking brake pads as they may need attention.

Need a full scan to see what faults are being logged. It could be dpf related or it could be something else. The start stop system will become unavailable with engine faults and yours has gone into limp mode. You should Investigate this to make sure you're not going to cause further damage.

Check for fault codes for sure. You can also monitor lock sensors microswitches as you lock unlock. But I would not dismiss a mechanical problem like the linkage cable being too tight. Spent a week searching for that and replacing 2 x lock modules when I bought my used vw golf r mk7!!

Yep. Remember driving in a mates dad's range rover 4.2l v8. In the 1990s. Rad burst. Steam, overheating but.... temperature gauge was dropping... which resulted in an argument, "debate" with the owner drivers son!!! He didn't want to listen to the suggestion to stop and turn off, initially!!

To me the cold rad outlet indicates a faulty thermostat. Or a blockage. But together with lost coolant.? So far as temp sensors there’s 2. One on the rad outlet, one on the engine head, rhs I think. Obd11 or vcds allow you to monitor both. A complete thermostat failure would normally also record a dtc. Ie log a fault…

Very likely electromechanical thermostat failure. If the car is on it's first at 10 years 116k that would be amazing. More likely this will be the second replacement.