Warrior193
FREEDOM
-
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by Warrior193
-
The warning was most likely generated because of the difference in wear between the two front tyres. Have you checked the tyre markings on the new tyre are actually the same as the one opposite?
-
Hello, welcome to the forum. The white box will be a RFI suppressor or surge arrestor - you could try disconnecting it to confirm that is not part of your problem. Are you able to confirm continuity of the field and armature windings? - checking this this will also rule out an issue with the sliprings and brushes. Most likely your problem will be the regulator. Yes, a break in either the stator or armature windings will result in no output, but would think unlikely to be the problem unless the slipring brushes have failed.
-
Hello 2stroke, I can't answer your question directly but my understanding is that the same part number, with only a change to the suffix letter indicates a revised part - so either part should fit.
-
If we wait long enough, perhaps other manufacturers will get their EV technology closer to Tesla - then there is also HC on the horizon, as JCB have been developing.
-
Hi Cobber, how long do you intend to go with your experiment? I chickened out at 7 years, (but with low mileage)
-
Perhaps a limiter like this is something VAG should have fitted originally, rather than relying solely on hydraulic pressure.
-
Damaged EV quarantine requirements are on .gov website - including environmental covers and minimum of 15 metres separation from other vehicles, which will significantly increase storage costs.
-
Not so sure of the hood support strut placement though!
-
As @Mike The Thinker and an online check on Octavia specs confirms.
-
Hello Nepo, check the wheel bolt PCD for the Mk1 - I seem to recall that the Mk1 is 5 x 100mm, while I think the Mk2 is 5 x 112mm.
-
provided the battery tests ok on a test, I'd suggest looking for parasitic drain while the car is fully shut down - correct procedure can be found by searching on the forum. Even with variable charging from the alternator, battery standing voltage should not be allowed to drop below 12 volts, as this can cause long-term damage.
-
^^^^^ This, especially given that the battery is 2023.
-
I note a recent report suggesting that the new requirement to 'quarantine' BEV and hybrids that may have suffered damage to the battery pack, may be partly responsible - but insurers do often seem to post high premiums initially, then are prepared to take a substantial drop when resistance is met.
-
By 'corded' I mean the type that plug in to one of the 12 volt sockets in the car.
-
Incorrect tyre pressures unfortunately pretty common from dealers.
-
Hello, buy one of the corded air compressors online (we have one in each of our cars) - I think ours are branded RAC - and get yourself a good, dial type, pressure gauge at the same time. Neither of these will set you back much.
-
Is this guy working from a recognised garage? Are you in UK? What is the car? Instruct him in writing that you expect him to properly rectify immediately the problem he has caused to your vehicle - if he fails to do so without any cost to you (and if you are in UK) open a case in County Court (small claims) - low cost and easy process.
-
Clearly your mechanic has made some error when replacing the tie rod joints (presumably from MOT advisory?) - then compounded it by getting something wrong when attempting to correct the alignment. Obviously his error for the alignment being 'completely off' after replacing the joints, assuming that the vehicle wasn't pulling to one side before the replacement. Take it back to him.
-
Hello Fitz, welcome to the forum. It would perhaps help others to give advice if you can give the reason for repair and wheel alignment that gave rise to this problem - was there some issue, I.e. after clipping a curb?
-
Definitely not worth the risk.
-
Putting the boot in while turning can tend to induce oversteer in all vehicles - even at the pinnacle of F1. Your quote 'gave it plenty of gas' perhaps suggests this was a little too much.
-
That EFB to AGM change will definitely need adaptation (coding) - also true if the Ah rating is different from the old battery. Changing the battery serial number serves to reset any settings that the charging system may have made in compensation for faults in the old battery. There is a register somewhere on this site for members who have the necessary equipment and may be able to assist. The clamping bolts are at the base of the battery and will require a long extension.
-
Hello, I'm sure there is no difference for SS - important to make sure the battery adaptation is done correctly (change battery serial number and update any change of battery capacity/ battery type)
-
As above ^^^^. IIRC, that used to be a mechanical interlock in the switch assembly itself - I assume that would have changed to an electrical interlock for keyless start models.
-
Hello Dipesh, welcome to the forum. Please can you post what the compression readings were - did you take both 'wet' and 'dry' readings? If there are significant differences between cylinders, this will most likely be the cause of misfiring - possibly from plug fouling - what did the plug electrodes look like when you removed them?
