Warrior193

Are those some type of rivet, that have to machined-out, securing the crown wheel to the old diff?

I'm surprised at the amount of corrosion on those connectors considering the relatively small quantity of water indicated in OP image - very useful find for all those out there with leaking sunroofs.

Yes, pretty fiddly getting the damper back on - needs very small hands - or a tool that you can use to press the hook back down onto the bar - all while trying to keep both parts of the damper together and fastened to hole in the side of the compartment.

The suggestion by Ken might be worth trying, but in chrome silver - I bet there are some nail varnishes out there that might get close. Try on a piece of scrap first as these are normally acetone-based.

^^^^ what Toot says. You may find that the pollen filter has not been changed when due - even if the vehicle has supposedly been regularly dealer serviced.

11.9 volts (standing) is a pretty low reading if enough time was allowed for all systems to shut down (go asleep) - this is 40 - 50% charge for EFB/AGM battery. I am sure you will have braking (and steering) available ok - you can test the brakes even before you move by checking the pedal pressure with the engine running, then try moving a short distance at low speed and test the brakes and steering again to ensure they are working correctly. Even with no power assistance available, brakes and steering will still work - but will require a lot more effort to operate.

Hello Patryk, I did a search on this error code, it is a Canbus communication fault - where a message was expected, but not received, by a module. It can flag up if the battery has been disconnected, or a sensor has been disconnected. General consensus appears to be that the codes will clear after a short drive. Are you absolutely certain battery is good? What is the standing voltage at the battery terminals? The Canbus modules can often be extremely sensitive to low battery voltage. I'm going to flag this to someone @ApertureS who can probably be of more help - but take your car for a short (local) drive first.

Hello Patryk, welcome to the forum. Don't panic - these faults may not be due to the water ingress - it would probably require much more water than shown in cabin to cause a problem with electronics. Have you checked your battery condition and charge? The fact that engine starts normally is a good sign. Low, or failing battery will often cause multiple error codes in the systems you mention. I'm just going to do an online search for your error code.

Any signs of life yet?

I've not seen a full kit available, that option wasn't available when I retro-fitted my Octavia - but it might be available now. There is a specific topic on this forum for sourcing parts and fitting them.

Hello RH, I can recommend the Febi Bilstein struts. I think they look OEM when fitted, and a simple job to do.

Hello MP, please can you clarify if you have manual or DSG gearbox?

Hi, the usual stealer BS I'm afraid. Provided the discs are not excessively lipped or have too much run-out, they are ok to reuse.

Hi, yes - the dealer mark-up. 😒

Sounds as if they might not need balancing - is there anywhere smooth and safe you can test at higher speeds?

I guess a little too early to ask, but will be very interested to hear what you think of post install handling.

There is a separate cooling system for the oil.

Hi, I agree that mode in manual would be more intuitive - I was disappointed when I test drove a DSG to find that it wasn't set up like a sequential box. I was hoping to use it in manual mode most of the time, with the option of Auto in heavy traffic. Bought a manual instead.

Hi Dan, what did the diff set you back?

Not sure with the TDI, but my understanding is that the sliding sleeve can stick closed occasionally, causing overheating until sleeve does open. I'm uncertain if this sleeve is part of the thermostat - or integrated with the water pump. I believe the sleeve is purely to allow a faster warm up for the engine. AFAIK, the sleeve is operated by water temperature only - Ie. not modulated by an external control source.

Hello Iggy, I'm pretty sure your wheel bolt PCD will be 5 x 112 x 17mm. If your wheels are standard, ET details are moulded into the inside of the rim. Try (Google) a website called 'Will They Fit' a very useful source of data for all things wheel related. PS. 'ET' is the distance the rim projects from the centreline - giving an indication of clearances to suspension or wing. CORRECTION - I just checked - Wheel bolt PCD is 5 x 100.

OP has 1.4TDI ?

Welcome to the forum. ^^^^^ 2nd this. Depending on engine fitted, very likely to be the sleeve on the water pump staying closed for too long.

Get yourself a pair of them, makes the job even easier.

I'd want to see the engine barred-over so that I could see the entire length (inside and out) - but that looks fine to me. Go on, you're going to say that it's original and done over 100000 miles. 😁