Warrior193

Hi, is your consumption calculation correct? Unlikely that a stage tune will significantly improve your consumption figures, you will most likely be tempted to use the extra performance - and the fuel use will increase.

Either of them would serve very well for pretty much anything you need to check with electrics - the shrouded test leads can be a bit of a nuisance sometimes - but that applies to all test instruments now (Elf & Safety) I think the 4000 count will do all that you need, the display updates plenty fast enough for dynamic measurements - put the extra money towards a few more litres of fuel the next time you get robbed at the pumps.

Hi @nta16, Martindale instruments have a long history in the trade, I've only used their contact-free voltage testers, but that DMM should do the job well. I see that, from a reasonable sample, 90% of purchasers on Amazon give it 4 or 5 star. Nice gift! Rather difficult to gauge accuracy unless you have access to bench-calibrated instruments, but for normal use, I can see no reason to suspect readings from that meter. What were you comparing it to?

Hi @cado I've been using an AstroAl , 4000 count DMM for the past 2 years, I use this one for work and can recommend it as a good, reliable, budget DMM. It is auto-ranging, simple to use, reads true RMS values, has battery test function for dry/rechargeable cells and even a non-contact test function for mains. The only negative point is that it doesn't come with a protective case. It's not a Fluke 77 IV, but for less than £21, it's a bargain.

By leaving permanently connected, they mean attaching (usually optional) DIN type connector leads to the vehicle battery charging points, and connecting the charger to that when required. The old battery will almost certainly require a bit of a 'boot' from your RAC charger before the new Ring charger will initiate charging - it might never do so because the battery is beyond recovery. Depending on use, I'd suggest charging every month to 6 weeks, bear in mind that, even on relatively longish trips, the battery will rarely get a full charge. If you have a reasonable digital multimeter (pretty good ones are not especially expensive, and are always useful to have about the house) If you do buy a DMM, go for one with a higher count reading, suggest over 2500-3000 count. If interested, I can recommend a reasonable one for you. I'd recharge when the battery standing voltage drops below approx. 50-60% (12.1 - 12.2 volts) Give the new battery a full charge, the Ring charger will tell you when it's got there. It is safe to leave unattended, the internal circuitry of the charger will prevent any risk of damage through overcharging - just make sure you select the correct mode.

I hope there weren't any speed cameras around.

Hi, your new Ring charger will do the job very well - but it will probably not be able to do anything with your original (dead-flat) one. Your old charger might possibly do a Lazarus on that one, but very unlikely - that level of deep-discharge will almost certainly be terminal (pun intended) Definitely give your new battery an occasional recharge during spells of low use, self-discharge losses can be as much as 1% per day at certain ambient temperatures. Be aware that your new battery will arrive with less than a full charge, give it a top up treat with your new charger. PS. same rule applies for negative charger lead when charging on vehicle.

Hello Martin, welcome to the forum. Have you tested the battery condition? Loss of power steering can indicate failing battery - or bad earth connection.

Which could be disastrous back in the days when not all vehicles were negative-earth - And the bumpers were metal! 😨

^^^^^ Ditto for TSI. The battery in my MY16 Octavia typically sits at 75% max. But it's still a good thing to give the battery an occasional 100% charge.

Get quotes from other (online) suppliers and use that as a starting point for negotiations with selected dealer. Definitely regret not specifying ACC and heated windshield.

@cado 1 - Yes, but I would not recommend 'Dumb' charger - if no other option, monitor battery carefully and do not leave charging unattended. 2- Yes 3- Better to avoid any fast charging, suggest maximum external charge rate should not exceed 1/10th of battery Amp-Hour rating. Note that EFB and AGM batteries require a slightly higher charging voltage cut-off point than standard SLA batteries - 'Dumb' charger will not be able to do this.

I believe it is so that the battery monitoring system is kept updated with charge from external source.

If a lead acid battery voltage has fallen below the threshold trigger voltage of a smart charger, the battery will almost certainly have suffered serious internal damage.

@cado Older model, but I've used a Ring RSC 608 for a few years now and can recommend it. Output is selectable between 2-8 amps and has all the charging modes you would normally need.

Full of BS Corporation-Speak and employing Customer Service Manglers (sic) who couldn't tell their rear end from their elbow.

Unfortunately, it often seems to be 'no care, no responsibility' and keep feeding the customer nonsense until they just go away.

AFAIK, there is a single exception to using a starter motor for S/S - The Mazda I-Stop - this uses timed injection and ignition to the cylinder nearest (after) TDC on compression stroke to get engine rotating from auto stop.

Interesting to see that Allams Epsom haven't changed - I stopped going there after my Octavia's first annual service.

I'm going to try for The Telegram.

Hi Bas, I'd have to disagree that the S/S is not intended, at least in part, to help the environment - an idling engine is producing zero MPG, going nowhere, but still producing exhaust emissions.

Welcome to the forum. Cats can retain operating temperature for at least 10-15 minutes (some sources quote up to 25 mins) Idling engine will not usually generate sufficient heat to get cat to correct operating temp. Better all round to stop idle, certainly if stopped for more than 10-15 secs.

Hello Paul, I'm not a locksmith, but do work quite a bit on locks in my job. That is possible - try smearing a little graphite powder on the keyways and a little puff into the lock itself to see if it helps. Apart from the occasional reluctance to release the key, are there any other signs of the lock being 'sticky'?

That would turn my stomach every time I did engine checks - On the bright side, I guess it makes it easier to see if anything has fallen off the top of the engine.

🤣