Warrior193

hello Indy, should be doable through coding on VCDS - although might not always dip to exact position unless you also have electrically operated memory seats.

I fear you were right.

Is this the square sensor mounted in the front grille? I really fail to understand why it had to be removed for calibration - it would have to be correctly mounted on the vehicle to calibrate! What does your 'mechanic' propose to do about this?

Hello Simon, definitely get rid of the silicate bag by replacing the expansion tank for a start - very easy and quick job - a tip, get yourself a set of the proper hose clip pliers, they make removing and refitting the clips so much easier. I'd also consider a cooling system flush - but I see that you had the water pump replaced, so that should have already been done. One thing that might have happened is that the system wasn't properly purged of air when the pump was replaced - I believe that this requires using VCDS (or similar) to avoid airlocks in the system.

Yes, that looks like the usual 'old school' type of adjuster - usual tension is to allow max of approx. 25mm deflexion when pressing down reasonably hard on longest span of belt run.

The issue with the warning light extinguishing when the engine speed is increased suggests that the alternator is outputting just enough to trigger it - but not enough to charge. Reasonably confident this confirms a fault with the voltage regulator. Regardless of battery charge state, you should be seeing at least 13.5 volts at the battery terminals when engine is running at more than around 1500rpm

Hi Gerry, IIRC, you will require one in at least some countries.

I hope that someone will come along with the information you need - but it would not be a shock to discover that not everything a main dealer says is true🙊

The warning was most likely generated because of the difference in wear between the two front tyres. Have you checked the tyre markings on the new tyre are actually the same as the one opposite?

Hello, welcome to the forum. The white box will be a RFI suppressor or surge arrestor - you could try disconnecting it to confirm that is not part of your problem. Are you able to confirm continuity of the field and armature windings? - checking this this will also rule out an issue with the sliprings and brushes. Most likely your problem will be the regulator. Yes, a break in either the stator or armature windings will result in no output, but would think unlikely to be the problem unless the slipring brushes have failed.

Hello 2stroke, I can't answer your question directly but my understanding is that the same part number, with only a change to the suffix letter indicates a revised part - so either part should fit.

If we wait long enough, perhaps other manufacturers will get their EV technology closer to Tesla - then there is also HC on the horizon, as JCB have been developing.

Hi Cobber, how long do you intend to go with your experiment? I chickened out at 7 years, (but with low mileage)

Perhaps a limiter like this is something VAG should have fitted originally, rather than relying solely on hydraulic pressure.

Damaged EV quarantine requirements are on .gov website - including environmental covers and minimum of 15 metres separation from other vehicles, which will significantly increase storage costs.

Not so sure of the hood support strut placement though!

As @Mike The Thinker and an online check on Octavia specs confirms.

Hello Nepo, check the wheel bolt PCD for the Mk1 - I seem to recall that the Mk1 is 5 x 100mm, while I think the Mk2 is 5 x 112mm.

provided the battery tests ok on a test, I'd suggest looking for parasitic drain while the car is fully shut down - correct procedure can be found by searching on the forum. Even with variable charging from the alternator, battery standing voltage should not be allowed to drop below 12 volts, as this can cause long-term damage.

^^^^^ This, especially given that the battery is 2023.

I note a recent report suggesting that the new requirement to 'quarantine' BEV and hybrids that may have suffered damage to the battery pack, may be partly responsible - but insurers do often seem to post high premiums initially, then are prepared to take a substantial drop when resistance is met.

By 'corded' I mean the type that plug in to one of the 12 volt sockets in the car.

Incorrect tyre pressures unfortunately pretty common from dealers.

Hello, buy one of the corded air compressors online (we have one in each of our cars) - I think ours are branded RAC - and get yourself a good, dial type, pressure gauge at the same time. Neither of these will set you back much.

Is this guy working from a recognised garage? Are you in UK? What is the car? Instruct him in writing that you expect him to properly rectify immediately the problem he has caused to your vehicle - if he fails to do so without any cost to you (and if you are in UK) open a case in County Court (small claims) - low cost and easy process.