Warrior193

When negotiating this purchase, did you make any mention to the dealer about fitting a tow bar?

From my understanding, it depends on the vehicle load plate, the position appears to be that if there is no Max. towing weight entered on the plate, a tow bar is not permitted.

Politely ask the Dealership MD to point out to you in the Approved Used Warranty where this defect is excluded and why.

Hello Scott, welcome to the forum. Is that a Skoda Approved Used warranty? I can see no reason why that would not be covered, the issue is well known - to the point that VAG brought out a revised expansion tank without the 'Mit Silicat' insert.

Tyre pressures are on a plaque inside the fuel flap. I normally run the Octavia at Eco pressures - plus approx. 0.2 bar when on winter tyres.

Oh, and ask them to verify that the transit blocks have definitely been removed.

Hello Tibbadog, welcome to the forum. Here I am, green with envy. Oh what a sinner I am 😁 Enjoy your trip. Your new engine (EA888) has cam chain.

It seems a little unlikely that an injector would fault only when engaging reverse gear - as per other suggestions, I'd be inclined to look for an electrical fault.

When you had the battery replaced, was the new (AGM) adapted in to the BCM? This definitely needed to be done if the old battery wasn't the same type or capacity. I don't recall all of the parameters that inhibit stop/start from happening - but it is quite possible that an emissions fault will be one of them.

Hello Staro, given the loss of power, then dead, I think the best you could hope for is bent valves - unlikely to be fixed for £500 inc. labour. If the cambelt is intact, presumably the belt tensioner failed? Did any engine warning lights come on when you started to lose power? You could try using the fuel pump to drain the tank by disconnecting the feed at the fuel rack.

I agree, I've not looked at other WGs - but I would have expected that linkage to have a clevis and pin type connection for OE.

I'm inclined to believe that adjusting the sensitivity of the front radar will also make it less liable to 'ghost' activations - the visual warning and the AEB are two elements of the same system.

@Radiogaga is the coolant level in the expansion tank falling?

Hello @Doofy No longer the five years that Skoda UK were quoting up to around July this year. Now in line with VAG recommendations. You should be able to see latest recommendation on cambelt threads.

It does sound as if your system is overly sensitive - have you tried adjusting the sensitivity as Surrey John suggested?

Re. time period for sulphation - my understanding is that this process is not instant, but takes some time to occur - so the discharge / recondition cycle should not do any harm. Care needs to be taken that the discharge rate is not so high that it causes buckling of the plates though.

Hello @bromley - I say "ABS intervention" because, when the AEB system kicks in, it applies the brakes in full ABS mode - you feel and hear the brakes rapidly applying and releasing. Fortunately, on the rare occasions mine has kicked in, it has been very brief - and there was, almost without exception, a visible explanation for it. I have never experienced a 'full AEB stop' as you describe.

An important point, as @Rooted has touched on, to keep in mind is that engine oil is not simply for lubrication of moving parts - it also plays a critical role in the cooling system of the engine. Keeping the level within the correct range is important.

I think these locks use similar type pins in the cylinder though - just aligned differently.

It's a great idea to get into the habit of doing regular checks - maybe once a week for a start, then perhaps monthly when you've noted a pattern for your vehicle - Oil and coolant levels, tyre pressures, washer fluid. Get yourself a bit of kit, not much really required - good tyre pressure gauge and 1/2 litre bottle of correct grade oil.

Hello bromley, I have very occasionally had ABS intervention from the front assist on my Mk3 - all but one occasion was where I was clearing an obstruction on my left front and the radar thought there wasn't enough space (there was, just) Only on one occasion was there no obvious trigger visible - I put that one down to something blowing across the road. On none of these ABS interventions did the vehicle brake to a full stop - less than 1/2 second approx.

Hello Mr RS, what lubricant did you squirt into the lock cylinder? The only lubricant that should ever be used in locks is fine powdered graphite.

To be fair though, assuming the old lock was original, it did last more than 16 years - that doesn't really suggest a serious design flaw to me.

@JohnTs ....... And the fault was........?

They may have been making a somewhat mangled reference to the possibility of damage to a sticking lock solenoid, but unlikely.