Warrior193

Hello Alfie, welcome to the forum. How many miles have you run since you last topped up the oil? What is your engine code? (3 or 4 letters before engine number on the registration document) Excessive oil use is unfortunately well documented on the 1.8 TSI engine. Not sure why you are not seeing smoke from the exhaust - but I suspect that's where the oil is going. Do a search on this forum using your engine code.

It is possible that you will require a replacement key fob, it sounds as if your remote control function has failed. The immobiliser chip is separate from the remote control buttons and is passive (not battery powered). I believe it is possible, but a bit fiddly, to swap over the immobiliser chip into a new remote control fob.

We got SWMBOs Fabia from there, we were impressed with their sales team.

Good afternoon @ro0ter I would think that you are fully entitled to receive any information from your cars system - plus any supporting data regarding this 'event' that the dealer responsible has in their possession. This sort of ECU failure clearly is not normal for the many battery replacements being carried out - often by the owners themselves. I am more that a little concerned by your reference to the use by the dealer of a battery support 'charging robot' during this battery replacement - this was not necessary, and I wonder if they managed to reverse the connections at some point? In any case, I would maintain that their actions have resulted in serious damage to a vehicle that was operating correctly before delivery to them. If they refuse to accept this, I would suggest engaging legal assistance.

Agree, often find that bargain no brand button cells can be a waste of money. Duracell works for me - but have occasionally had relatively short life from some of them. A good idea to try and rotate use between keys too.

@chris666 It's not unheard of to find a supposedly new button cell to be dead. If, as AG suggests, the red led doesn't light up with button press, try another, known good cell.

I once hired a Subaru Legacy in Oregon, it had the chain-driven CVT, with the (IIRC) 8 speed steps in manual mode - I really liked it. Used it mostly in manual mode, but cooked the brakes a little bit on a very long down grade because I didn't kick it down enough on the paddles.

I seem to recall that the inlet and exhaust valves remain closed in 2-cylinder mode. The cam lobes are moved away from the followers.

Good God! - perhaps to be commended for attempting to keep repair costs down - but £30 an hour? Completely unrealistic! Recent quotes my wife has had for a little gardening work have been a minimum of £60 to 75 an hour.

Although when I had that, the filters were blocked with a black, gritty substance (almost like iron sand) The OPs fuel filter does look like water contamination though.

I suspect, but do not know for certain, that non stop-start vehicles will not have regenerative braking. I think stop start and regen braking both require EFB or AGM batteries. Without the specialised battery or charging system, there should be no need to adapt a replacement battery into the system.

@Gerrycan My understanding is the regenerative braking is from the alternator ramping up its output in regen conditions - this requires the charging system to leave available capacity in the battery. Clearly the braking effect will be limited as the max. output of the alternator is a little less than 2000 watts (2.6hp)

Hello Ro0ter, welcome to the forum. Very sorry to hear of your problem. This sounds eerily like @yesheadjon's story. I do not know what the Swiss or German legal position would be - but clearly your car was running before the dealer got their hands on it. That would be my position - they should return your car in the same condition.

But the 'smart' alternator system doesn't - it normally only allows 60 to 75% charge maximum - apparently to allow capacity for regenerative charging, meaning, with mostly short runs, the battery is never fully charged.

My suggestions were based on the vehicle not having had a recent service. What part of Portugal?

Hello Bob, what percentage was the fail? it doesn't sound as if it was by much - Try a new air filter, fresh tank of fuel and perhaps new, correctly-gapped spark plugs.

I would add a comment on the 'smart alternator' Most of my mileage is relatively short trips commuting to work and I believe that the undercharging buffer allowing for regenerative charging, can be detrimental to battery life. I recharge my battery fully when the stop/start system starts flagging the 'high power use' message. Consider it only a slight inconvenience with the micro-hybrid technology - it would be great if VAG created an algorithm for the charging system that identified when regenerative charging was not likely. Excess energy could always be dumped - rather like the regenerative braking system on diesel-electric ore trucks.

Have you spoken to the manager of this Dealership? If not, request a meeting - point out that the vehicle was working correctly when delivered to them. The onus is on them to prove their claim that the ECU has been corrupted by the supposedly duplicate key. What was the reason for only one key being supplied when you purchased the car in January?

But it was running when you took it in to them, right? This sounds like they have made some sort of mistake and they are now attempting to cover with BS. It is totally their responsibility to return your vehicle in the same condition as when you delivered it to them.

I have just checked - EA211 engine oil pressure should be regulated at 48psi/3.3bar - the readings your mechanic is quoting sound like fuel injector pressures!

I would have to make a guess of somewhere between 75 to 150psi. I can't imagine 100bar being correct.

Warranty replacement Moll EFB in 2016, still testing as good battery and I always use stop/start where possible.

Hello Henry, you say oil pressure is 100 bar - are you sure about that? - that equals more than 1400 psi!

Hello Henry, welcome to the forum. Have you checked the oil level on the dip stick - if so, is the level correct? Do not drive it until you check this.

In my opinion, I would consider replacement of the Turbo might not be necessary - the presence of oil in it just shows how the excess oil has been 'blown' out of the engine - unfortunately, I can't say the same for other engine components (pistons, connecting rods and crankshaft) These are all major parts - and there is a possibility of damage to them by the pistons contacting the excess oil. - plus the catalytic converter will probably need replacement after being contaminated.