Warrior193

Clearly your mechanic has made some error when replacing the tie rod joints (presumably from MOT advisory?) - then compounded it by getting something wrong when attempting to correct the alignment. Obviously his error for the alignment being 'completely off' after replacing the joints, assuming that the vehicle wasn't pulling to one side before the replacement. Take it back to him.

Hello Fitz, welcome to the forum. It would perhaps help others to give advice if you can give the reason for repair and wheel alignment that gave rise to this problem - was there some issue, I.e. after clipping a curb?

Definitely not worth the risk.

Putting the boot in while turning can tend to induce oversteer in all vehicles - even at the pinnacle of F1. Your quote 'gave it plenty of gas' perhaps suggests this was a little too much.

That EFB to AGM change will definitely need adaptation (coding) - also true if the Ah rating is different from the old battery. Changing the battery serial number serves to reset any settings that the charging system may have made in compensation for faults in the old battery. There is a register somewhere on this site for members who have the necessary equipment and may be able to assist. The clamping bolts are at the base of the battery and will require a long extension.

Hello, I'm sure there is no difference for SS - important to make sure the battery adaptation is done correctly (change battery serial number and update any change of battery capacity/ battery type)

As above ^^^^. IIRC, that used to be a mechanical interlock in the switch assembly itself - I assume that would have changed to an electrical interlock for keyless start models.

Hello Dipesh, welcome to the forum. Please can you post what the compression readings were - did you take both 'wet' and 'dry' readings? If there are significant differences between cylinders, this will most likely be the cause of misfiring - possibly from plug fouling - what did the plug electrodes look like when you removed them?

OFN is Oxygen-free Nitrogen, which is used to pressure-test the AC system - but the AC should never be run with this gas in the system , as the compressor will not have sufficient lubrication.

I wonder, is OP mistaking 'normal air' in his AC for OFN being put in the system for a pressure-drop test?

I find that rather surprising, considering Volvo's action in moving all production to EVs.

Saw an interesting short interview from Rowan Atkinson (Independent) on EVs, his opinion is the 'honeymoon period' is coming to its end and says he feels 'duped' over some of the green claims for them. He was quoting recent data from Volvo, regarding production emissions compared to petrol vehicles.

From the image you posted, I think that is normal - the area wiped by the pads would not normally extend all the way in to the hub.

Hello, pushing back the pistons to fit the new pads will have displaced fluid back into the reservoir - syringe out the excess.

Hello Pete, welcome to the forum. Members can offer help if you give more details on what you have - EG. Petrol/Diesel, engine size, engine code, gearbox, etc.

Auto stop-start can be inhibited by external and internal temperatures - but likely your problem is with SOC or condition of your battery. If cabin temperature is not up (or down) to commanded temperature for heating or A/C, the stop-start will be inhibited to prevent, for instance, windscreen fogging, etc. These particular inhibiting conditions will usually go after 3 or 4 miles. There are quite a few inhibit conditions - but failing battery is the most common one if the issue persists after the vehicle is fully warmed up. Be aware that the battery is very rarely charged more than 75-80% by the smart-alternator, particularly with relatively short trips.

As above ^^^^, check the drainage slots are clear, they can be very prone to blocking up.

Really worth while keeping an eye on those auto-renewals - SWMBOs Fabia renewal due in June, renewed last year with existing provider at a small increase over the year before - this year they quoted a massive, almost 100% increase! Got (and accepted) a comparison quote that is actually lower than last years, with exactly the same cover. Interesting to see vehicles estimated value is higher than we paid for it.

Hi, when you do as AG suggests, does the throttle hiccup occur or is the throttle response smooth?

@varoooms reference on ' touching glass' is for the lamp itself - the oil left by your fingerprints will etch the glass, which can result in the lamp shattering - this may have been the cause of the original failure. Cotton gloves or a clean cloth are essential when handling most lamps (even QH types)

Re. the items in the trunk - reduce weight here by moving some of the heavy items to trailer, position over axle.

I used to tow various trailers with reduced nose weights (for easier single handed handling) - and used an adjustable, friction type, stabiliser attachment instead. No stability issues.

I'd be a little suspicious about Halfrauds claim about the new battery adaptation - there is at least one recent posting on this forum, where they stated to a member that a new battery does not need it!

Pretty likely that new plugs will sort the problem - agree on considering replacing cam belt.

Hello DG, typically, how long do you leave the infotainment on with the engine stopped before the warning comes up?