Warrior193

Hello Hetty, I did a little research - G12, G12+, G12++ and G12 evo are apparently all compatible with G13 - but with reduced corrosion protection. I believe this means shorter intervals between coolant changes. I believe that removal of the 'Mit Silicate' bag in the coolant expansion tank also requires more frequent coolant changes.

Hi Munch, I just measured my Octavia - there is a least 2 metres length available with the forward end of load projecting to a point behind the front face of the seat bolsters (well clear of handbrake) - this is with both front seats fairly well back (long legs) The rear seats fold 'almost flat' with the variable floor in raised position - I've not tried removing the base cushions of the rear seats.

There may be a suitable replacement from VW China - Try the Bay. That's where I got one for my Octavia 3, but it's badged VW!

Hello Hetty, my understanding is that G13 and G12 Evo are at least compatible in small quantities - I.e. top up. I recall seeing some discussion of this in another part of this forum - particularly when the silicate bag is removed from the older type of coolant expansion chamber. PS. your Fabia was most likely originally filled with G12 evo.

How much! 😲

Hello Berisford, provided you keep a regular check on it - and it is secure, I can't see why you shouldn't retain the cover - just remove it when you take it in for the service. I agree, engine compartment looks 'more finished' with cover in place. My understanding was that the cover was intended to be replaced with an upgraded one when it became available.

Hi Michael, the sad emoticon was for the misinformation lies out there in stealer land. Glad that you got it sorted at a more reasonable price.

Personally, I'd spec. a heated front screen and ACC if I was going to replace the Octavia - but I do presently go to work at O-dark hundred - until, that is, the cretins I work for p1** me off some more!

Important note, if asking 3rd party towbar prices, make sure the price includes full, canbus electrics - not just bypass relay.

I'm hoping that I'm wrong - but I suspect your problem is not just the glow plugs. AFAIK, they only activate at start to assist initial combustion.

PS, I had a Mk 2 Cooper S in my miss-spent youth, also much modified (as per icon) - I can't believe how big the BMW 'Minis' have grown now.

Hello Smaug, welcome to the forum. Do I assume correctly - Another JRR fan? To your question - my wife has a 2018 Fabia 1.0,110 PS, I think it is a very willing engine - not quite as smooth as my 1.4 Octavia, and torque pick up does not come at same point, but quite fun to drive. Take the test drive, I'm confident you will be pleasantly surprised.

Any induction air leak will almost certainly be part of your problem, it sounds as if there may also be an issue with oil leak. VCDS will hopefully flag what the warning message was that your driver saw. A cylinder compression check would be a good idea.

Hello, welcome to the forum. You need to be particularly careful if using any volatile spray, particularly on a diesel, when it is running - doing that could cause an uncontrolled engine runaway! As for the oil around the top of the engine, was the oil level checked - was it above the max. marking? If so, this could be a symptom of fuel getting into the engine sump. There could also be an issue with excess crankcase pressure from worn piston rings - especially at your mileage.

^^^^ - or worn syncro rings in the gearbox. A way to check for this is to double de-clutch when changing down a gear. A pretty much forgotten art unless you drive old vehicles (especially trucks) Old gearbox 101 - - When changing down gears, clutch in, select neutral, clutch out, briefly press throttle to increase engine speed to approx. same revs as you would expect to see at that speed in the lower gear, clutch in, select lower gear. The art is in doing all that fast enough to get a smooth change. The process can also be used when changing up a gear - except you allow the engine speed to drop when you clutch out in neutral.

That's not a problem, simply change one digit in the previous battery serial number - or even create your own number, one member has suggested using a number with the date in it I.e. dd.mm.yy or yy.mm.dd and add sufficient digits to match previous SN format.

Oh, what a cynical bunch we are 😆

Hello Blue, provided your local mechanic has the necessary equipment and knowledge, I'd personally go with him (or her?) does your mechanic have access to VAG online system?

Hi, most likely the fuse has gone open-circuit - I'm sure someone will be along soon with the correct fuse number, location and rating.

My understanding is that the Mit Silicat 'teabag' was fitted in the expansion tank to extend service life of the engine coolant and provide additional corrosion protection. I don't think it was actually judged to be obsolete, but advisable to remove to prevent issues if/when the bag fails, allowing the contents to block coolant passageways. IIRC, if the bag is removed, the coolant will require replacement at shorter intervals to provide sufficient corrosion protection.

I assume that it's not also dumping sump oil on the ground? A litre, even at 250 miles, sounds pretty bad.

My air filter was particularly dirty at only 17k miles / 4 years - loads of loose debris too. I don't drive in what I would consider unusually dusty conditions.

The only thing I can think of is that perhaps disconnecting the MAF is temporarily shutting-off the PCV - but to be honest, that's a pure guess. How much oil does it appear to be using - and have you done the smell test with the oil?

Good morning Gman, what did you 'grease' the starter pinion gear with? A good clean up, then apply a dry lubricant - or possibly Copper Ease to the starter motor shaft would be what I would recommend.

A thought just occurred to me, as you have a PD, have you checked the smell of the oil on the dipstick? Does it smell strongly of diesel? - if so, it might be a faulty fuel injector leaking fuel into one or more cylinders and down into the sump, which then raise the oil level to the point where it blows out of the sump from overpressure - but this would normally also be associated with difficult starting and a lot of black smoke on start.