Warrior193

If IsoProp or Acetone won't shift it, I really can't see white spirit being more successful.

I think that you will need to obtain correct SD card. Amundsen will not accept generic card unless correctly formatted. I do not recommend AliExpress if you are considering that source, try the bay for pre-loaded, 32Gb card with 2023 version maps.

Hello Lee, if you have Amundsen, other members have said correct format should be FAT32 with 4K clusters.

Hello Lee, can you confirm what ICE you have fitted - is it Amundsen, Columbus, or something else?

Hello Lee, welcome to the forum. 32Gb (rather than 64) should be enough space for all Europe maps. I seem to recall from somewhere that 32 is max SD accepted on MIB2 - although your version might actually be MIB2.5 if you have facelift model. I understand that non Skoda SD card can be used if formatted correctly - will have a search and come back to you.

Been there, done that!

If going to the breakers 😭, whip out the spare wheel and kit - you will probably find a ready buyer for that at least.

Hello Nicky, welcome to the forum. Hmmm, a little less than 25K a year - so probably not an ex taxi, possibly a travelling salesman? Given that most of these miles will have been run with engine fully up to temperature, not such a bad thing, is a full service history available? Does it look like it's been taken care of?

^^^^ that, or possible windscreen fogging conditions can be another reason.

hello Indy, should be doable through coding on VCDS - although might not always dip to exact position unless you also have electrically operated memory seats.

I fear you were right.

Is this the square sensor mounted in the front grille? I really fail to understand why it had to be removed for calibration - it would have to be correctly mounted on the vehicle to calibrate! What does your 'mechanic' propose to do about this?

Hello Simon, definitely get rid of the silicate bag by replacing the expansion tank for a start - very easy and quick job - a tip, get yourself a set of the proper hose clip pliers, they make removing and refitting the clips so much easier. I'd also consider a cooling system flush - but I see that you had the water pump replaced, so that should have already been done. One thing that might have happened is that the system wasn't properly purged of air when the pump was replaced - I believe that this requires using VCDS (or similar) to avoid airlocks in the system.

Yes, that looks like the usual 'old school' type of adjuster - usual tension is to allow max of approx. 25mm deflexion when pressing down reasonably hard on longest span of belt run.

The issue with the warning light extinguishing when the engine speed is increased suggests that the alternator is outputting just enough to trigger it - but not enough to charge. Reasonably confident this confirms a fault with the voltage regulator. Regardless of battery charge state, you should be seeing at least 13.5 volts at the battery terminals when engine is running at more than around 1500rpm

Hi Gerry, IIRC, you will require one in at least some countries.

I hope that someone will come along with the information you need - but it would not be a shock to discover that not everything a main dealer says is true🙊

The warning was most likely generated because of the difference in wear between the two front tyres. Have you checked the tyre markings on the new tyre are actually the same as the one opposite?

Hello, welcome to the forum. The white box will be a RFI suppressor or surge arrestor - you could try disconnecting it to confirm that is not part of your problem. Are you able to confirm continuity of the field and armature windings? - checking this this will also rule out an issue with the sliprings and brushes. Most likely your problem will be the regulator. Yes, a break in either the stator or armature windings will result in no output, but would think unlikely to be the problem unless the slipring brushes have failed.

Hello 2stroke, I can't answer your question directly but my understanding is that the same part number, with only a change to the suffix letter indicates a revised part - so either part should fit.

If we wait long enough, perhaps other manufacturers will get their EV technology closer to Tesla - then there is also HC on the horizon, as JCB have been developing.

Hi Cobber, how long do you intend to go with your experiment? I chickened out at 7 years, (but with low mileage)

Perhaps a limiter like this is something VAG should have fitted originally, rather than relying solely on hydraulic pressure.

Damaged EV quarantine requirements are on .gov website - including environmental covers and minimum of 15 metres separation from other vehicles, which will significantly increase storage costs.

Not so sure of the hood support strut placement though!