Warrior193

Hello, as well as the probable issue of the new battery not being coded in to the cars system, be aware that the charging system will not normally allow the alternator to charge the battery to 100% - this is to allow capacity in the system for regenerative charging. 70-80% should be normal, probably lower on shorter trips. Keep an eye on the SOC. Do you have access to a good multimeter or alternator tester?

That does seem to be a similar theme - the Gumball Rally I recall (in about 66) fielded, among others, a Kenworth tractor unit and a notable pair of Mk.1 minis - one chopped down to a two-seater, the other a stretched limo - I recall they wore Rally numbers 1/2 & 1 1/2. The start point was the White Heron Lodge in Kilbirnie, just down the road from home.

Is that any relation of The Gumball Rally of the 60s in NZ?

Hi A7, as you say your engine already had an oil habit, and combined with this new problem, unfortunately, it may very well be the end of the line for her😞 unless you can source a known good replacement engine - and the swap can be done, both within a reasonable cost.

Is this a TSI or TDI? Have the timing chain and tensioner been checked?

Hello A7, welcome back. It will help members if you post your engine type and code.

Hi NZ, does that latch move in towards the cable side of the connector when pressed? - if so, a pretty good bet it's a bail-catch release for the connector.

I'd take a very careful read through all the warranty conditions and then demand a clear answer as to why they think it's not covered.

Hello Jos, there is a setting in the infotainment system, settings - 'winter tyre speed warning' - if normal tyres are fitted, you need to uncheck the box.

Hi Graham, the reference was in relation to using a used belt, for which there can be no reasonable way of knowing previous history of the replacement. NB, even if the retractor works correctly when pulled out manually is not necessarily a guarantee that it will lock and hold correctly in the event of an accident. In the case of your cut belt webbing strap, it might be better (and cheaper) to investigate having your strap replaced - I believe there are companies that can do this.

Strongly agree, seatbelts are designed for one use (accident) only, - if a used belt has actually been subjected to the high loadings involved in a serious accident, the mechanism could possibly fail in a 2nd event. Of course it is possible that the used belt was not occupied during any accident - but there will be no way to determine this,

I can recommend Heko.

But it certainly would pay to get a reliable diagnosis of the fault. Could it be possible it's something simple like a blown hose?

Hello James, please can you tell us what engine (TSI/TDI) and what engine code? (3 or 4 character) Personally, I'd look for a reputable turbo rebuilder (on exchange) My only experience for this was when the turbo failed on my Draco 24 - (Volvo Penta AQAD40B engine) which I exchanged with one from a specialist in Wimbledon.

I agree, one particular concern would be for the turbocharger bearings.

Hi Varooom, do I assume correctly that the bottom line is kilometres?

If seller persists in fobbing you off and will not take responsibility, 1 - Keep a record of all correspondence with them. 2 - Check your legal rights under Sale of Goods Act (or whatever the latest iteration is called) 3 - File a case in County Court - this isn't expensive to do. The chances are that they will see sense when they realise that you are serious, if they don't, they will have to attend a court venue convenient to you - if they fail to appear, you should get an automatic judgement in your favour, if they then refuse to pay, the bailiffs will go in and start seizing 'goods to the value' - with all the disruption to business that will ensue from this. Unfortunately, all this can take some considerable time.

If you can, give it an overnight charge, then see if this fixes the problem. NB. remember to attach the charger Negative clamp to the metal tag on the firewall behind the battery - not the battery post. Let us know how it goes.

What type of charger is it? Do you know if your battery is EFB or AGM? You can find this info marked on the top of battery.

Possibly worth it if it can be proved that the replacement engine has had ALL the updated components fitted, and is in good condition - otherwise quite possibly a case of rinse & repeat.

Hi Jo, the 3 milers won't be doing the battery much good, nor will regular10 mile trips - but this would probably be offset if the 100 milers were reasonably frequent. My Octavia battery struggles with the 8 to 9 mile each way commute to work. These micro-hybrids, or at least the VW-based ones, seem to rely heavily on energy recuperation and limit how much charge the alternator outputs to the battery.

The electric power steering does put a very high load on the battery when it's operating. What is the length of your typical trip? It's possible that your runs aren't long enough to charge battery - although stop-start is often 1st thing to stop working on low battery state (<>50%).

Well I never! - I lived in Grant Road to age 10, trekked all around the Town belt above and never realised it was there.

Hello, try a search on this forum for EGR valve leak.

Hi Jo, welcome to the forum. First thing to do anytime you get multiple fault indications like this is to give the battery a thorough condition check and recharge. How old is the battery?