Warrior193

Hi Rob, was that starting from the Featherston side? Abbotts creek is named for my great-grandfather. There used to be an old, single lane Bailey bridge over the creek.

Interesting - the fuel alone would have been costing the company 3 times the monthly repairs. Perhaps a nice Octavia upgrade in the pipeline for you soon?

2015 Amundsen MIB2 has DAB (MY16)

Actual load, tyre profile and rim size are the governing factors. Pressures for sustained high speeds should be similar to those for full loading.

Call them and ask for advice, given the complexity of these gearboxes,I would consider gear selection issues, as you describe, a breakdown.

I'm not sure of the terms and conditions in the Skoda approved warranty - check those, they will specify who you need to take it to for diagnosis. If considered unsafe to drive that distance, probably should be recovered.

Back to dealer who sold it to you is first choice.

Hi, try Timpsons if you have one local - some branches are able to supply correctly coded replacement keys.

Was the fuel gauge reading full after putting in that 27.5 litres? Assuming that your gauge was well into the red sector before you started filling, I suspect what happened was that the pump you used may have had a faulty auto-stop and 'clicked-off' early. Less than 28 litres should have only given you between 60-75% on the gauge.

Anything up to approx. 5% increase in rolling circumference will usually tend to reduce any existing, built-in, speedo error. Can be checked with portable GPS unit. I use 215/60/16 winter tyres on my Octavia (instead of 205/55/16 in summer) and GPS matches speedo almost exactly with them fitted. From memory, winter size gives around 4. something % increase.

Hi Karock, your battery will be either EFB or AGM. Performance of AGM is supposed to be superior.

I'd take a guess that it was flagging one of the front wheels? - what was most probably setting off your TPMS was a long enough change in traction between the front wheels when you 'booted it', which resulted in sufficient difference in rotational speed to set it off.

For full reassurance Google the website 'Will they fit' - you can try all possible tyre and wheel size permutations on it.

Hi ND, do you know the engine code?

Hi PD, the lower message on the display status refers to the angle of the front wheels - because the steering rack is electrically-assisted, moving the wheels too far from straight ahead can drop the battery voltage enough to disable the stop-start system. You can check this by turning the steering wheel while the engine stop is active - the engine will restart.

Hi, very unfortunate, but you say 'only 3 years old' - your profile does say 2015 1.6 TDI.

I agree, the responsibility lies with the driver to take a pro-active approach towards any vehicle they operate - not just drive until some warning light flashes up. Especially in relation to tyre pressures, modern radials may often be dangerously under-pressure before it is obvious - and the TPMS, if fitted, may not have even be correctly set. I recently picked up a rental car and found the left rear was around 10 PSI! Probably had been like that for some time as it didn't lose any pressure over the next 4 days.

That's a really nice blue, low miles too. Will keep an eye on your project. Track days?

I agree with JD, the one on the foot pump is more likely to be incorrect. Without having a calibrated gauge, it's difficult to be completely sure of accuracy - I prefer to use a dial type gauge - and try to prevent it from getting knocked-around too much. One of the 'race' type of dial gauges from a reputable supplier should be ok.

Hi Chris, welcome to the forum. What was the story regarding the Fabia being consigned to scrap? Enjoy.

Very likely, although no harm in trying a long charge to check actual battery condition. My stop-start becomes intermittant during winter due to low mileage runs. Battery is Moll EFB, was replaced (along with alternator) during first 6 months of warranty, and still tests as +- 90% on battery condition meter. In fact, it's on charge right now as I seem to one of the few owners on this forum who actually likes the function.

Hi Matt, glad that you found a satisfactory solution. Given the present delays in lessons, will you be the primary instructor for the time being?

Hi, it shouldn't make so much difference that would be obvious to the casual eye - the larger wheel will be fitted with lower-profile tyre (smaller sidewall) resulting in very similar actual tyre diameter.

Hi Andy, apologies for delay in answering your question - smart chargers are fitted with electronics to allow different charge-rate programmes and selectable settings to allow charging of the three common types of starter battery fitted (standard lead-acid, EFB and AGM) They usually have a 'battery recovery' programme to allow recharging a battery that may be suffering from sulphation and also minimise risk of overcharging. Common manufacturers are Ring and Ctec.

Hi Andy, your problem is most likely insufficient charge in battery - either from fading battery (especially if still original) or just needs a charge. The 'power consumption is high' message can translate to low battery volts - or something like AC, power-steering, etc. is actually drawing too much current to allow engine auto-stop to enable. There are quite a number of parameters that have to be met before auto-stop is enabled. Because these are micro-hybrids, the alternator control does not normally allow the battery to charge to 100% - usually only to 70 - 75%, so as to allow capacity for regenerative charging. If you have a 'smart' charger, try a full recharge first. Battery condition test would also be good - not sure if I would trust Halfrauds to be completely impartial though! PS. there are quite a few reports on this forum regarding a possibly faulty batch of MOLL batteries around MY16 - MY18 period.