Warrior193

Hi Bob, any significant heat on compressor shaft would almost certainly destroy the shaft seal.

Hello Niccolo, welcome to the forum. Be aware that any unexpected current draw while vehicle is locked can cause other onboard systems to not fully shut down (go to sleep mode) This can cause a significantly larger current draw than the dashcam alone and will cause issues with the battery charge state.

In particular, when battery type is being changed - i.e. EFB to AGM as PB intends.

Hello, I assume that you are referring to the security key adaptor for the wheel bolts? I'm not sure if the online market websites here in the UK are different to ones you can access in Morocco - but at least one site I have used in the past has images showing the various key patterns available. Do you have the code from your old key? - this is usually a single letter of the alphabet, stamped into it.

Hi, have you tried one of the online marketplaces? Normally a number of suppliers there.

There is probably significant vibration at that point, so ensure there is sufficient slack in remaining wire.

Of course - minus the 'Instant' part😄.

Inner face corrosion of the discs seems to be relatively common, could this indicate some issue with the inner pistons or pads?

Hi Markos, it's a good feeling. Ditto for my lowly 1.4 except still on original pads and discs. SWMBOs turn with the Fabia (service only) next week.

Just a thought, have the OPs lamp reflectors started to deteriorate?

Hi John, how about using heat (very low oven) to soften a normal crevice tool enough to flatten it to fit into the gap? If I can hide it from SHWMBO I'm going to try it myself.

Are you sure of that? how does it cool the air charge if coolant does not circulate?

I feel for you Freelunch. I'd try the breakers first - then the Bay. A very distant third choice for the dealers. I once did something similar with an extra spare wheel (I used to carry two sometimes) - difference is that it was still there when I got back home several days later.

Not specifically on a Superb, but I replaced my load-bay lights with Leds - huge improvement over the dim, original filament ones.

I really hope that's meant as a joke.

Not sure for the Mk.2 - but there may be a sticker near the bottom of the B pillar with the engine code.

Hi, welcome to the forum. Did you check the dip stick before draining - and did you replace the filter? It sounds as if it was overfilled - or possibly there may have an amount of fuel in the oil. Don't overfill, only add oil until it reads correctly on the 'Full' line of the stick. Make sure vehicle is level and recheck level after a short engine run (allow sufficient time for oil to drain back to sump) PS. just noticed that you used oil extractor - that will usually leave a small quantity of old oil in the sump.

Top it up with correct oil, pull the stick a little more often for a while and see how it goes. Check that you are using recommended method for checking level on your engine type.

Hi Kalum, welcome to the forum. I'd guess that's around 500ml in 4000 miles - not particularly high use. How often do you check the oil level?

Great shot of the harbour and international terminal. Do cruise ships still visit?

Hi, welcome to the forum. Possibly - does your vehicle have a switch near the bottom of the B pillar on drivers side?

IIRC the V5 specifically states that it is not proof of ownership.

Hi Jing, I wonder if this was some sort of immobiliser issue. When this happened, was the key in its usual place? If it happens again, try placing the key fob against the start button when you press it.

Are tyre pressures OK?

Are you able to post an audio recording of the noise?