Warrior193

You need to check that the distributor swash plate is completely free to move, all springs inside dissy are in place and in good condition, no excess movement in dissy shaft and drive pinion and check for vacuum leaks.

Really not necessary to go to that extent and leave so long before checking oil - stop engine, leave for approx. 1-2 mins, pull stick and wipe, dip to check level. Use steps 3 and 4 if doing cold engine check.

When you say 'jumping' are you talking about sudden changes in timing without any change in engine speed - or do you mean the timing advances when engine speed is increased? The second case is normal - the ignition timing should advance using the centrifugal flyweights mounted on the distributor shaft when revs increase, there is also control by engine vacuum.

From the static settings, it just remains to adjust ignition timing and dwell angle to correct dynamic setting using a timing strobe.

Given your test figures, very likely that your battery is still serviceable.

Have you tested the battery voltage while the engine is being cranked? - this is a reasonable, ad hoc, load test for condition.

^^^ this is likely the answer - to confirm No 1 cylinder is on Compression stroke, turn engine over until No 1 piston is rising towards TDC with both inlet and exhaust valves closed.

^^^ certainly agree with this as an initial check - far too late, after running engine up to full temperature, to discover no, or very low, oil in engine!

PS, correct oil is not dependent on vehicle model, as same engine can be fitted in different models - use engine code for correct oil spec.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Check the first 3 or 4 characters of the engine number on your V5 document - this is the correct engine code (probably DTS-)

Get one with the proper wiring kit - not one just using a bypass relay.

Some confusion may arise from the oil pump drive being, apparently, a wet belt on some engines - but the cambelt is dry.

I partially agree, but this forum has many examples where even Brand Main Dealers strongly resist or even refuse what appear to be valid warranty claims.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Unfortunately, there are plenty of people out there who will - and not just 'private' sellers!

Probably should be covered by the warranty - but entirely depends on what is covered and what is not, especially in the small print. I'd suggest a thorough read-through of your warranty.

I haven't noticed this on either of our Mk3s (Octavia and Fabia) but I'd take a guess that it's normal - the steering assistance is electric, so the rack very likely requires to move slightly before the assistance starts to operate.

Hi Hilary, welcome to the forum. What filter required engine removal to access - DPF?

... even longer for me - although the Combi tailgate only releases, not 'pop open' I guess due to the extra weight.

Has there been any improvement on your fuel computations? @ctoul

It could also be a connector or wiring fault in the sensor circuit.

^^^ faulty power supply or ground (earth) connection is a strong possibility - another possibility is a fault with the PCM as opposed to the ECU/ECM. Reflashing the PCM is a suggestion I have seen from a little online research, but I'd suggest checking all control unit connections first.

Engine shutdown while idling I can understand - but I struggle to see how this can be possible while the vehicle is running in gear unless ignition or fuel supply is being lost for significant periods.

Take a very close look at any warranty exclusion clauses before accepting those, if too wide, can often not be worthwhile.

I don't understand, you say the engine cuts out while you are driving - is this while vehicle is in gear?

Hello, welcome to the forum. What gearbox do you have - DSG? What are the error codes when it was scanned for registered faults? Was the refurbed ECUs tested?