Warrior193

Can you confirm that the revs being limited while driving - or only while in neutral? As Alasdair says, there is a rev limiter while vehicle is in neutral.

How many wire connections are there on the trunk latch? I have seen references, in some models, to the sensor switch being incorporated in the latch itself - are you able to try manually closing the latch while the tailgate is open, to test if the 'gate open' indicator extinguishes then?

I don't know the location of the sensor switch - are there any wire connections on the latch itself? It might need a trawl through a manual unless anther Yeti owner can advise. Do the trunk lights operate correctly - I.e switch off when tailgate closes?

Very possible that the rear-end damage has caused the tailgate sensor to misalign, causing the 'tailgate open' warning. I believe the rear wiper will not operate if the sensor indicates the tailgate is open.

Do you mean the splines on the clutch plate?

Are you using 2025 cells - or are you trying to squeeze 2032s in? It's not unheard-of for even 'new' cells to be faulty.

If the red LED on the fob is not lighting up, the problem will likely be the new batteries - or the battery contacts inside the fob. The LED indicator does not indicate that the car has recognised the fob - it indicates that a signal is being sent to the vehicle. Did you make sure that any protective film on the new batteries were removed?

12.25 volts is approx. 65% SOC - which, with 'Smart' alternator does not necessarily indicate failing battery. Suggest doing a load test to confirm battery condition.

Had the original battery monitoring module gone faulty - or was it replaced simply as a precaution?

^^^ agree, it doesn't look like oil got into the back end where the brushes and sliprings are, although cleaning off the aux. belt might be a good idea.

I assume that was with engine not running? What is the voltage with engine running?

I'm pretty sure they won't be able to get a suitable replacement AGM battery for £60! Of more than a little concern is the report that the battery is not correctly clamped-down. Standing voltage alone is not a full test of the battery - you need to test under load conditions as well - a reasonable check is to measure the terminal voltage while the engine is being cranked over, should not fall below about 10.5 volts with a good crank.

After the treatment that con-rod's had, wouldn't it be a good idea to have it crack-tested after straightening?

AGM battery should be adapted (coded) into BCM as 'Fleece'

Was your original (old) battery an EFB or AGM? If EFB, did you change battery type in coding? Provided the battery monitor module is the correct part it would not require coding.

I have requested moderators to move this to Mk4 section - but likely that screen is not original, I'd strongly suggest you check the heated screen is actually working properly.

With the connector leads disconnected on both sides of the window, test the heater element for continuity resistance - you may need assistant to hold test probe on one side while you probe the other, unless your probes have crocodile-clips. You should read continuity with some resistance in the heater element.

Did your garage adapt (code) your new battery into the vehicles BMS?

Battery degradation is usually a slow process - sulphation, plate material loss, etc - but can gradually build up to the point where a sudden failure occurs, especially with a sudden change in ambient temperatures.

Many, apparently random, fault indications is a very common sign that the battery voltage is too low.

You may need to remove the undertray first - but any wiring connection or earth-strap connected to engine or ancillaries (starter motor, alternator) - especially heavy-current connections. Also suggest testing battery voltage while engine is being cranked-over.

I suggest checking any earth connections to the engine / starter.

Great you've got it fixed, thanks for reporting back.

I think the main source of DVSA complaints is incorrectly adjusted LEDs/HIDs - or lights illegally converted with lamps that were not designed for them.

Even if the key fob battery is dead, the immobiliser chip in the fob can activate the system by being placed in close proximity to the start button. But highly inconvenient to just let the fob battery go dead when you know it's on way out.