Warrior193

The fluid is tested for moisture content using a conductivity tester. It can be argued that this test may not be complete unless test fluid is taken from the wheel cylinders, rather than at the master cylinder.

In which case, you need to have a compression test done, then find the reason for no spark on number one cylinder.

Can you post a picture of the present plugs?

If the original plugs were all approximately the same colour when they were changed 3 months ago, something has definitely changed since then. Does it definitely look like burnt oil on number one plug? Not completely impossible for a new plug to be faulty.

Doesn't look right. I think the yellow strainer is removeable, have you tried lifting it out to see what is in it? Otherwise, can you syringe out some of the discoloured fluid into a clear container?

What did the old plugs look like when you 'recently' changed them? (as you wrote last month)

That would definitely be an indication of something wrong with number 1 cylinder - if the 'oiling' on the plug is simply due to the plug not firing correctly, your engine will effectively be single cylinder in COD mode and would run very badly.

The issue is likely to be the voltage drop on the whole system when the starter motor draws several hundred Amps to crank the engine.

^^^ This, or your battery voltage is dropping too low because the battery is starting to fail.

Torque for the three M10, TTY engine mount bolts on a Mk2 2.0TDI Vrs are listed as 45Nm on one site I found while attempting to help another member.

Could it simply be the engine switching to two cylinders in COD mode?

One easy way to confirm if it's the MIL indicator or not - the cruise control will not work if it is activated.

Hopefully the fault will just be failing plugs or coil pack/s. Allow them an attempt to rectify the fault, then see how it is. Insist they give you full details of the cause of the fault and what was done to rectify it.

Even in the unlikely event that the doors are different, you could simply sell on the Vrs door.

Ignoring extras such as ambient lighting, etc, I'd take a guess that the doors would be an exact match.

Very odd shaped symbol if MIL!

Image is a little blurry - below the symbol, there appear to be two parallel lines - are these arrows pointing left/right?

For the amount of work involved, including materials, I think your answer must be yes.

I believe those bolts are TTY type.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Does your vehicle have heated seats?

Not necessary unless previous oil changes have been badly neglected, or the oil has been contaminated with coolant - I think most engine manufacturers state that flushing oil should not be used. In the case where flushing is thought to be required, use regular lube oil, then dump.

I believe that some versions of the 1.4 also had ACT - but not used in Skoda's.

Get the battery properly tested first, a rough test you can do yourself is to check the voltage at the the battery terminals (pref. with DMM) while the engine is being cranked. This test should ideally be done with the battery fully charged. The battery voltage should not drop below approx. 10.0 volts during the test, any reading significantly below this indicates the battery is failing. Adapting the battery (if replacing) is important and consists of entering the new battery capacity rating (Ahrs) confirming correct battery type, and changing the existing battery serial number - this informs the vehicles BCM of the replacement and should delete any registered battery defects that may be limiting the alternator charging rate.

A question, a review I was reading referred to the return of the 1.4TSI for the 2017 FL - was the 1.5 dropped then?